Centre-pull yoke with QR?
04-13-21, 02:05 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,813
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1105 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,326 Times
in
782 Posts
Centre-pull yoke with QR?
Have this situation:
Brake lever with no QR.
Centre-pull brake with no QR.
Raleigh rear cable stop (half-hoop brazed to seatstays).
Don't want to change levers/brakes or use a seatpostbolt-mounted stop.
Is/was there a yoke with an integral QR?
Brake lever with no QR.
Centre-pull brake with no QR.
Raleigh rear cable stop (half-hoop brazed to seatstays).
Don't want to change levers/brakes or use a seatpostbolt-mounted stop.
Is/was there a yoke with an integral QR?
Last edited by oneclick; 04-13-21 at 02:09 AM.
04-13-21, 04:36 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 699
Bikes: 1984 Bianchi Tipo Corsa, 1985 Cannondale SM600 (24/26)
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked 349 Times
in
190 Posts
I know this isn't a direct answer, but is there a barrel adjuster somewhere along the line? If you otherwise like the yoke you have, set brakes up with barrel adjuster out and adjust in to remove wheel. It's not that much of a process and you don't need to buy another part. (Of course none of us on C&V want to buy yet another part!
)
)
04-13-21, 04:47 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,146
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3804 Post(s)
Liked 6,640 Times
in
2,602 Posts
There was a DiaCompe yoke with a QR built in. One problem was that it was made from stamped steel and looked like crap:
04-13-21, 05:00 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 699
Bikes: 1984 Bianchi Tipo Corsa, 1985 Cannondale SM600 (24/26)
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked 349 Times
in
190 Posts
Dia Compe made a Roller Yoke with a QR. There's a link to a picture of one in a recent Roller Yoke thread.
04-13-21, 05:47 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,214 Times
in
1,103 Posts
You could close the calipers and remove the yoke cable. Of course the lever cable might make it difficult. Otherwise just run narrow tires, like 21mm!
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Likes For SJX426:
04-13-21, 06:19 AM
#6
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,777
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,395 Times
in
1,929 Posts
If the yoke @nlerner posted looks too pedestrian for you, there was also a Gran Compe version:
Likes For JohnDThompson:
04-13-21, 08:19 AM
#7
Disraeli Gears
The Raleigh half-hoop cable stop was often furnished with a screw-adjuster. Not a lot of movement, but depending on how "tight" you prefer your brakes to be adjusted (I like 'em tight-ish) it might be enough. The hole through the stop is unthreaded, but the ferrule can be raised by backing the nut off while holding the knurled ferrule sleeve. If you have a decent length of brake housing that "wants to be" straight, there are also inline screw adjusters.
I find that it does not take much slack to be able to get the straddle cable free of one caliper arm, and in fact I've filed the inside and outside corners of the little ear closer to centerline on the front side (here) of one caliper arm, to help a bit with exit and entry. Always good to work with a "third hand" tool or a real third hand, but the former is seldom "at hand" on the road. Another ploy is to loosen the brake caliper mounting bolt -- a single 10 mm wrench is all that's required for that.
I find that it does not take much slack to be able to get the straddle cable free of one caliper arm, and in fact I've filed the inside and outside corners of the little ear closer to centerline on the front side (here) of one caliper arm, to help a bit with exit and entry. Always good to work with a "third hand" tool or a real third hand, but the former is seldom "at hand" on the road. Another ploy is to loosen the brake caliper mounting bolt -- a single 10 mm wrench is all that's required for that.
