What are these brake levers called? Having trouble finding the right levers
05-20-21, 03:14 PM
#1
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What are these brake levers called? Having trouble finding the right levers
I'm dialing in my new (to me) Surly LHT. The handlebars are giving me some issues. My old bike had butterfly bars, which I love and moved them over. But because of the differences in geometry the aero brakes I had on my old bike aren't working in the position I need, and mountain bike brake levers all seem to have a rigid clamp so I can't fit it around the bends of the butterfly bars.
Walking around today, low and behold spied a bike with mountain bike brake levers with...a swivel clamp? Exactly what I need....and can't find...and have no idea how to search for them!
If I could find these or something like this that would pretty much solve my fit issues. Any ideas what these are called? I might be able to rummage through some shop parts bin, but would be nice to start new if they still make them.
Thanks!
Can't mount the aero levers like I used to. Might try to print a shim to change the angle.
mtb brake levers with...a swivel clamp? The swivel clamp will let me just mount it without sliding it around the bends
Walking around today, low and behold spied a bike with mountain bike brake levers with...a swivel clamp? Exactly what I need....and can't find...and have no idea how to search for them!
If I could find these or something like this that would pretty much solve my fit issues. Any ideas what these are called? I might be able to rummage through some shop parts bin, but would be nice to start new if they still make them.
Thanks!
Can't mount the aero levers like I used to. Might try to print a shim to change the angle.
mtb brake levers with...a swivel clamp? The swivel clamp will let me just mount it without sliding it around the bends
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05-20-21, 03:21 PM
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Inline, Auxiliary, Interrupter, Cross, or Top Mount levers are all terms used for these. Many different mfrs. make them with swivel clamps.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 05-20-21 at 03:24 PM.
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05-20-21, 03:31 PM
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Those don't look like interrupter levers to me, since they have a pocket for the cable end fitting showing on the bottom two photos.
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05-20-21, 03:51 PM
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Why not guidonnet levers?
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05-20-21, 04:36 PM
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Those look like regular flat bar levers.
Interrupter levers might do the trick for you - they allow you to keep the regular drop bar levers and add a flat bar style lever:
I've been using interrupter levers for years - love 'em. They all have hinged opening clamps. There are 4 basic kinds: 31.8mm clamp short pull, 31.8mm clamp long pull (long pull for mountain V-brakes), 26mm clamp short pull, 26mm clamp long pull.
Interrupter levers might do the trick for you - they allow you to keep the regular drop bar levers and add a flat bar style lever:
I've been using interrupter levers for years - love 'em. They all have hinged opening clamps. There are 4 basic kinds: 31.8mm clamp short pull, 31.8mm clamp long pull (long pull for mountain V-brakes), 26mm clamp short pull, 26mm clamp long pull.
05-20-21, 06:23 PM
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I'll offer a small rant here, do not read further if you are sensitive.
Brake levers positioned as the OP has imaged are IMO boarder line dangerous in that the only hand position that the levers can be operated with places the hands too close to the stem, where there's little steering leverage and little chest cavity openness. Back in the day we saw a lot of bikes with what were wrongly called "safety levers". A secondary lever which acted on the primary lever blade but reached the flat/top area of a drop bar. Many liked them as they didn't need to lean/reach forward to use the brakes. The more experienced riders knew these levers limited the primary lever's range of useful cable pull, would easily come loose on their pivots and (as I said above) enable a poor hand position to be used for extended lengths of time.
The more recent "top mount" versions were initially designed as a race aid. The cycle cross racing dismount can be helped with these extra brake lever position. But as is the case way too many times, the common rider adopted what was designed to never be used in traffic, in this case the two top mount levers.
I know many will say that's what works for them, that their single speed drop bike has to have them or they wouldn't have any reachable brakes at all. (And other excuses) I say this is your body's way of saying that drop bars are not for you. If you can't ride the bars on their outer portions where steering control is best AND also use your brakes then you need to either get off the road, and away from other riders too, or choose a bar that offers both steering and braking control AT THE SAME TIME.
Rant over, Andy
Brake levers positioned as the OP has imaged are IMO boarder line dangerous in that the only hand position that the levers can be operated with places the hands too close to the stem, where there's little steering leverage and little chest cavity openness. Back in the day we saw a lot of bikes with what were wrongly called "safety levers". A secondary lever which acted on the primary lever blade but reached the flat/top area of a drop bar. Many liked them as they didn't need to lean/reach forward to use the brakes. The more experienced riders knew these levers limited the primary lever's range of useful cable pull, would easily come loose on their pivots and (as I said above) enable a poor hand position to be used for extended lengths of time.
The more recent "top mount" versions were initially designed as a race aid. The cycle cross racing dismount can be helped with these extra brake lever position. But as is the case way too many times, the common rider adopted what was designed to never be used in traffic, in this case the two top mount levers.
I know many will say that's what works for them, that their single speed drop bike has to have them or they wouldn't have any reachable brakes at all. (And other excuses) I say this is your body's way of saying that drop bars are not for you. If you can't ride the bars on their outer portions where steering control is best AND also use your brakes then you need to either get off the road, and away from other riders too, or choose a bar that offers both steering and braking control AT THE SAME TIME.
Rant over, Andy
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05-20-21, 07:19 PM
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Use search term clamp brake levers on Ebay and look down through what's available. Looks like Evoke makes some in black, BMX bikes seem to have swivel clamp brake levers and the clamp alone is available for some SRAM brakes. Hope this helps. Dia Compe Tech BMX brake levers?
Last edited by Ciufalon; 05-20-21 at 08:58 PM.
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05-20-21, 09:46 PM
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Although I can't recall arguing with Andrew on anything previous, his rant is pointless in this case. On something like a LHT cross levers or interrupter levers are a great addition. No one is spending 6 hours riding the hoods or the drops on a touring bike, and sometimes people relax on the bar tops. These give you that extra lever that lets you stop that much sooner if you need. While I don't have a bike with them, my wife has 2 bikes with them and the kids each have a bike with them. They're a good solution and much better then old safety levers ever thought of being.
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05-20-21, 10:35 PM
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You all are amazing, thank you!! I'll post what I can find in case it can help others.
This is useful - and I didn't concentrate on my old setup as much so the pic was a little misleading. This is a pic of my old bike and how I had them set up (with older Tektro levers). Funny enough, I think the levers you described were what was on it originally...and was one of the first things I took off haha.
For me, I know it's not normally how brakes are set up, but it does give me a ton of different hand positions and can reach the brakes quickly from all of them. The brakes are also in a position that my body would naturally go towards for a panic stop (which is most of my stops - tough riding in city traffic) no matter where they are - think hands out while falling. The LHT has a smaller frame and (as a result) different feel, so I'm still trying to experiment with a few options. If there was a way I could flip the bars, with the flats forward but still be able to sling my helmet / shopping bag over the handlebars that would be perfection - unfortunately the cables interfere with that idea.
[EDIT] Realized the brake levers may have something to do with it so worth noting. The ones on my old bike below are Tektro R200s, while the new ones came with RL-340. I wouldn't mind using the old ones if it solves the problem but the springs are broken (which I can replace if I can find a pair), and the bars are loose (which I could probably fix with a 3D printed shim). I think the problem would be the same anyway because of the bend...though I might be able to print a shim to go between the handlebars and brake lever too [/EDIT]
Last ride before the frame cracked, the levers were based close to the stem, but the lever handles were pretty much straight ahead:
When I first rescued it years ago
Can see those safety bars on the flats...couldn't stop for anything!
I'll offer a small rant here, do not read further if you are sensitive.
Brake levers positioned as the OP has imaged are IMO boarder line dangerous in that the only hand position that the levers can be operated with places the hands too close to the stem, where there's little steering leverage and little chest cavity openness. Back in the day we saw a lot of bikes with what were wrongly called "safety levers". A secondary lever which acted on the primary lever blade but reached the flat/top area of a drop bar. Many liked them as they didn't need to lean/reach forward to use the brakes. The more experienced riders knew these levers limited the primary lever's range of useful cable pull, would easily come loose on their pivots and (as I said above) enable a poor hand position to be used for extended lengths of time.
The more recent "top mount" versions were initially designed as a race aid. The cycle cross racing dismount can be helped with these extra brake lever position. But as is the case way too many times, the common rider adopted what was designed to never be used in traffic, in this case the two top mount levers.
I know many will say that's what works for them, that their single speed drop bike has to have them or they wouldn't have any reachable brakes at all. (And other excuses) I say this is your body's way of saying that drop bars are not for you. If you can't ride the bars on their outer portions where steering control is best AND also use your brakes then you need to either get off the road, and away from other riders too, or choose a bar that offers both steering and braking control AT THE SAME TIME.
Rant over, Andy
Brake levers positioned as the OP has imaged are IMO boarder line dangerous in that the only hand position that the levers can be operated with places the hands too close to the stem, where there's little steering leverage and little chest cavity openness. Back in the day we saw a lot of bikes with what were wrongly called "safety levers". A secondary lever which acted on the primary lever blade but reached the flat/top area of a drop bar. Many liked them as they didn't need to lean/reach forward to use the brakes. The more experienced riders knew these levers limited the primary lever's range of useful cable pull, would easily come loose on their pivots and (as I said above) enable a poor hand position to be used for extended lengths of time.
The more recent "top mount" versions were initially designed as a race aid. The cycle cross racing dismount can be helped with these extra brake lever position. But as is the case way too many times, the common rider adopted what was designed to never be used in traffic, in this case the two top mount levers.
I know many will say that's what works for them, that their single speed drop bike has to have them or they wouldn't have any reachable brakes at all. (And other excuses) I say this is your body's way of saying that drop bars are not for you. If you can't ride the bars on their outer portions where steering control is best AND also use your brakes then you need to either get off the road, and away from other riders too, or choose a bar that offers both steering and braking control AT THE SAME TIME.
Rant over, Andy
For me, I know it's not normally how brakes are set up, but it does give me a ton of different hand positions and can reach the brakes quickly from all of them. The brakes are also in a position that my body would naturally go towards for a panic stop (which is most of my stops - tough riding in city traffic) no matter where they are - think hands out while falling. The LHT has a smaller frame and (as a result) different feel, so I'm still trying to experiment with a few options. If there was a way I could flip the bars, with the flats forward but still be able to sling my helmet / shopping bag over the handlebars that would be perfection - unfortunately the cables interfere with that idea.
[EDIT] Realized the brake levers may have something to do with it so worth noting. The ones on my old bike below are Tektro R200s, while the new ones came with RL-340. I wouldn't mind using the old ones if it solves the problem but the springs are broken (which I can replace if I can find a pair), and the bars are loose (which I could probably fix with a 3D printed shim). I think the problem would be the same anyway because of the bend...though I might be able to print a shim to go between the handlebars and brake lever too [/EDIT]
Last ride before the frame cracked, the levers were based close to the stem, but the lever handles were pretty much straight ahead:
When I first rescued it years ago
Can see those safety bars on the flats...couldn't stop for anything!
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Last edited by Air; 05-21-21 at 05:57 AM. Reason: Added pics, info
05-21-21, 10:02 AM
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Although I can't recall arguing with Andrew on anything previous, his rant is pointless in this case. On something like a LHT cross levers or interrupter levers are a great addition. No one is spending 6 hours riding the hoods or the drops on a touring bike, and sometimes people relax on the bar tops. These give you that extra lever that lets you stop that much sooner if you need. While I don't have a bike with them, my wife has 2 bikes with them and the kids each have a bike with them. They're a good solution and much better then old safety levers ever thought of being.
As far as riding the hoods for 6 hours- No one is saying to only use a single hand position is The Way. But on my cross country tour 4 years ago I used the outer portion and hoods of my drop bars about 90%+ of the time. This tour had many days of 6ish hours of actual riding time. But we all react differently to stress and have different needs. I usually just shake my head when riders make poor choices when more viable (more control) options are readily available. This time I took the time to speak out. Andy
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05-21-21, 10:33 AM
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There's confusion in this thread - some people are talking about drop bars with brake levers only on the top (less safe), and some people are talking about interrupter (inline cyclocross) levers supplementing regular drop bar levers (more safe).
05-21-21, 01:28 PM
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Both lever types place your hands close to the stem. That is my primary issue with either type. This is worse when the top mounted levers are the only placement used, as the OP imaged. Andy
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05-21-21, 01:46 PM
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I'll offer a small rant here, do not read further if you are sensitive.
Brake levers positioned as the OP has imaged are IMO boarder line dangerous in that the only hand position that the levers can be operated with places the hands too close to the stem, where there's little steering leverage and little chest cavity openness. Back in the day we saw a lot of bikes with what were wrongly called "safety levers". A secondary lever which acted on the primary lever blade but reached the flat/top area of a drop bar. Many liked them as they didn't need to lean/reach forward to use the brakes. The more experienced riders knew these levers limited the primary lever's range of useful cable pull, would easily come loose on their pivots and (as I said above) enable a poor hand position to be used for extended lengths of time.
The more recent "top mount" versions were initially designed as a race aid. The cycle cross racing dismount can be helped with these extra brake lever position. But as is the case way too many times, the common rider adopted what was designed to never be used in traffic, in this case the two top mount levers.
I know many will say that's what works for them, that their single speed drop bike has to have them or they wouldn't have any reachable brakes at all. (And other excuses) I say this is your body's way of saying that drop bars are not for you. If you can't ride the bars on their outer portions where steering control is best AND also use your brakes then you need to either get off the road, and away from other riders too, or choose a bar that offers both steering and braking control AT THE SAME TIME.
Rant over, Andy
Brake levers positioned as the OP has imaged are IMO boarder line dangerous in that the only hand position that the levers can be operated with places the hands too close to the stem, where there's little steering leverage and little chest cavity openness. Back in the day we saw a lot of bikes with what were wrongly called "safety levers". A secondary lever which acted on the primary lever blade but reached the flat/top area of a drop bar. Many liked them as they didn't need to lean/reach forward to use the brakes. The more experienced riders knew these levers limited the primary lever's range of useful cable pull, would easily come loose on their pivots and (as I said above) enable a poor hand position to be used for extended lengths of time.
The more recent "top mount" versions were initially designed as a race aid. The cycle cross racing dismount can be helped with these extra brake lever position. But as is the case way too many times, the common rider adopted what was designed to never be used in traffic, in this case the two top mount levers.
I know many will say that's what works for them, that their single speed drop bike has to have them or they wouldn't have any reachable brakes at all. (And other excuses) I say this is your body's way of saying that drop bars are not for you. If you can't ride the bars on their outer portions where steering control is best AND also use your brakes then you need to either get off the road, and away from other riders too, or choose a bar that offers both steering and braking control AT THE SAME TIME.
Rant over, Andy
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05-21-21, 01:47 PM
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I might be the instigator of the confusion because the OP posted pics of top lever only drop bars and I brought up inline brake levers, but I think it's important to point out while top lever only drop bars are less safe (as you point out), having the extra inline levers is more safe (IME). I do a lot of "city riding" - slow, in traffic, head high - and the cross top levers have helped me avoid some collisions (mostly with pedestrians).
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05-21-21, 02:49 PM
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I might be the instigator of the confusion because the OP posted pics of top lever only drop bars and I brought up inline brake levers, but I think it's important to point out while top lever only drop bars are less safe (as you point out), having the extra inline levers is more safe (IME). I do a lot of "city riding" - slow, in traffic, head high - and the cross top levers have helped me avoid some collisions (mostly with pedestrians).
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05-21-21, 02:55 PM
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Andrew's point seems to be that those levers encourage a very narrow grip on the bars which lacks leverage, making it hard to steer... which is more tricky than you would think when you're also squeezing the life out of the lever while fishtailing trying to avoid hitting something.
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05-21-21, 05:16 PM
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Those look like Odyssey BMX levers. Monolevers, maybe.
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05-22-21, 08:19 AM
#19
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Really appreciate everyone's help! Going on a parts bin hunt over the next few days, see what I can find. Most of what I'm seeing online are two fingered levers which won't work with my mitten hands.
(Funny, as I look at this more now I'm leaning back towards 3D printing a shim to handle the curve of the bars...I'm not sure if the hinge clamp will be able to clamp onto the curved part of the bar but will look around for a pair just in case, keep my options open)
I took a cropped shot to show about where I'm trying to place them (though want to point them down more) - I'm confused why so many feel this location is dangerous or suboptimal? I rode like these on my old bike for about 15 years and felt this gave me the most natural panic location, but I'm definitely open to other suggestions or locations to try especially during this fiddling stage.
(Funny, as I look at this more now I'm leaning back towards 3D printing a shim to handle the curve of the bars...I'm not sure if the hinge clamp will be able to clamp onto the curved part of the bar but will look around for a pair just in case, keep my options open)
We tend to be creatures of our experiences and mine with top of drop bar brake levers has been poor. I have seen too many times the aftermath of riders not being able to control their bikes too many times for me to promote this riding position.
As far as riding the hoods for 6 hours- No one is saying to only use a single hand position is The Way. But on my cross country tour 4 years ago I used the outer portion and hoods of my drop bars about 90%+ of the time. This tour had many days of 6ish hours of actual riding time. But we all react differently to stress and have different needs. I usually just shake my head when riders make poor choices when more viable (more control) options are readily available. This time I took the time to speak out. Andy
As far as riding the hoods for 6 hours- No one is saying to only use a single hand position is The Way. But on my cross country tour 4 years ago I used the outer portion and hoods of my drop bars about 90%+ of the time. This tour had many days of 6ish hours of actual riding time. But we all react differently to stress and have different needs. I usually just shake my head when riders make poor choices when more viable (more control) options are readily available. This time I took the time to speak out. Andy
Andrew's point seems to be that those levers encourage a very narrow grip on the bars which lacks leverage, making it hard to steer... which is more tricky than you would think when you're also squeezing the life out of the lever while fishtailing trying to avoid hitting something.
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Last edited by Air; 05-22-21 at 08:45 AM.
05-22-21, 09:22 AM
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I think many of us missed the type of bar you’re using. FWIW I’m not saying that type of lever is always dangerous, but they do seem to be frequently placed far in where you have little steering control. Your purpose seems to be more of the function of a regular MTB lever, and makes me wonder if you’re sure they won’t make it around the bends.
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05-22-21, 09:37 AM
#21
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I think many of us missed the type of bar you’re using. FWIW I’m not saying that type of lever is always dangerous, but they do seem to be frequently placed far in where you have little steering control. Your purpose seems to be more of the function of a regular MTB lever, and makes me wonder if you’re sure they won’t make it around the bends.
I have a pair of mtb levers and as soon it got close to the first bend they stopped (just fiddled again to double check). It seems the straight part of the bars are absolutely made for mtb levers (and where most people tend to mount them) but I don't like them being so close to me. I am thinking about flipping the bars 180 so the straight part is where the curved part is in my last pic but that creates a few other issues. The Venn diagram of the perfect position so far is a space in the middle of non intersecting circles....but I'll get it eventually with some help haha
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