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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7

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Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7

Old 06-09-21, 04:42 AM
  #426  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61
In the last couple of years I’ve had two 531-tubed Raleighs that came to me with seat lugs crimped in from too-small seat posts and corrosion. I would suggest running a brake cylinder hone on an electric drill in the seat tube to clean the corrosion out. Take the bottom bracket out first! Once that’s done try a 27.2 post with lots of grease - you might be home free then.
I was inspired by this post to address seatpost problems I had on the Green Super Course. Looked around the garage for a brake hone, none to be found. Nonetheless, I set off to clean the seat tube from corrosion. The lugs did look crimped, so I spread them with a big screwdriver.

In lieu of a brake hone, I fashioned a long metal rod as an extension for a drill and a wire brush.



turned out pretty clean.

I had to pull the bottom bracket for this job, so I went ahead and installed the cartridge bb that I got when I bought the $5 box of parts. I already charged the bike $5 for a bb, based on the cost of the bb in the box, so I think it's okay to install the bb I actually paid for, without charging myself another $5.




With bb change, chain rubbed the outside of the front derailler, had to adjust slightly.

I will be riding to breakfast later, I hope the seat stays in place now.
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Old 06-09-21, 07:24 AM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
In all seriousness, some observations ...

5. Operational safety equipment takes second seat to bragging rights...
As much fun as might be to run this bike in full bedraggler mode - that's kinda like bedazzling, but with dirt and grease and hair instead of rhinestones - as it sits there is no running, period. I don't think I've EVER picked up a bike with its running gear as sluggish-to-frozen as this one is. The 1975 Motobecane I ran in 2016, which had spent at least 30 years in a crawlspace in Greenville SC was initially smoother than this poor thing. I looked it over again this morning and took some pictures for posterity, including lots of extra dirty detail shots. Here's the full drive side view for future reference -


Drive side as received

Harry is withholding approval

Harry says he thinks this bike is a dog that rolled in something that smells bad.

Then I wheeled it into the shop and started spraying Liquid Wrench onto the pedal threads, crank bolts, seatpost and stem. Hopefully it will sufficiently penetrate the threads and free them!

At this time the brakes are inoperable, probably a combination of cables corroded into housings and gunk built up in all pivot points. The chain currently carries an incredible amount of dirt, dried grease, hair and who knows what else, while the bottom bracket feels very sluggish and dry, like the original grease has collected dirt and rust and has solidified. The rear tire appears to be useable, but the jury is out on the front one - the inner tube holds air, but that skinny 23 mm Continental Sport acts like it doesn't want to stay seated correctly when I start to inflate it. I'll examine that more closely. There is a LOT of rust on the frame under the dirt, including a sizable part of the underside of the top tube - I'll try to remember to photograph it.

My current plan is to disassemble and thoroughly clean everything that is here and try to re-use as much of the bike's current fittings as I can. I suspect I'll have to replace the brake cables and housings, and perhaps the tires. The pedals and rear rim, if not rear wheel, appear to be replacements, but everything else appears to be stock. I'm going to do my best to clean and re-use that fabulous bar tape.

Perhaps some other time I can run a bike in full filth mode, but not this time - hazetguy will likely retain his lead in that category - but (1) I would like to continue living, and (2) out of respect for what has the potential to be a cool old bike, I will do my usual full teardown and rebuild regimen.
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Old 06-09-21, 08:28 AM
  #428  
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Just kidding

rustystrings61 I would never run that bike as is...you are wise to clean up the scene of the grime. Bumblebeena was in much more decent condition but in my mind I wanted to spruce and safety her up...

besides, it will be enjoyable watching that thing blossom...

Harry looks like a fun cat...
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Old 06-09-21, 12:08 PM
  #429  
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I took the Takara out for a shake down ride this morning along a favorite "playing hookey from working at home" route, over to the Fanno Creek Trail and back. I was pleasantly surprised all around. The brakes were my biggest concern -- I'm still using the gray pads it had when I got it (just sanded down to get a softer surface) and I though someone here had a less than glowing report on them -- but after nervously creeping down the steep hill I live on, I found that they were actually pretty decent. The shifting was great. The handling gave me no reason to complain. The drivetrain was wonderfully quiet. Even the cheap 27" tires didn't feel too stiff. Don't get me wrong, this is not in the same class as my keeper bikes, but if this was the only bike I had, I would be happy to ride it. I'd even say I have two or three other bikes in my garage right now that aren't this nice.

The bike is so clean it glows. Or maybe I need to clean the lens on my camera phone.



Here's another pic of it on one of several bridges crossing Fanno Creek.



Today's distance: 23.6 kilometers
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Old 06-09-21, 12:10 PM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by ollo_ollo
@Mr. 66 "So riding high on French enthusiasm"
I have also experienced this effect while working on my French bikes. Could it be the side effect of a good CABERNET? Don
No...

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Old 06-09-21, 12:52 PM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
. Don't get me wrong, this is not in the same class as my keeper bikes, but if this was the only bike I had, I would be happy to ride it. I'd even say I have two or three other bikes in my garage right now that aren't this nice ...

That is a much nicer bike than what I rode c.1975-78, which included many mountain miles and my only loaded tour. Stunning results!

I've had those Dia-Compe G and 500 brakes on several bikes now, and they're much better than their reputation - then again, I weigh between 160 and 170, depending on the season and my saddle time ...
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Old 06-09-21, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66
No...
You could get proper spacing for a lot of fenders with that lot.
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Old 06-09-21, 01:12 PM
  #433  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61
That is a much nicer bike than what I rode c.1975-78, which included many mountain miles and my only loaded tour. Stunning results!
Around 1978 I was riding a Huffy Thunder Road, so this Takara is much nicer than that too! Sometime in the 80's I stepped up to some green rattle can painted 10-speed (probably of the Varsity/Free Spirit quality) that my stepfather bought from a guy in West Virginia who sold bikes out of his garage as a side hustle. The Takara is much nicer than that one was too.

Originally Posted by rustystrings61
I've had those Dia-Compe G and 500 brakes on several bikes now, and they're much better than their reputation - then again, I weigh between 160 and 170, depending on the season and my saddle time ...
Well, I'm pushing 240 at the moment and don't have great grip strength, but I was able to get satisfactory braking from the hoods (which I can almost never say with single pivots) and great power from the drops.
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Old 06-09-21, 01:52 PM
  #434  
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One other thing I meant to note from my ride today is that I had never noticed before that the reflectors on quill pedals without cages actually serve a practical purpose. I'm skeptical as to how visible the reflector is when I've got a shoe on the pedal, but what I noticed today is that the weight of the reflector causes the pedal to rotate into a position that makes it significantly more likely that I'll get my foot on the flat side of the pedal on the first try.



I don't know if this was an intended result, but it makes a big difference for me using these pedals without toe clips (which I despise). I installed SunTour quill pedals without a reflector on another bike earlier this year, and I was constantly frustrated with finding my foot on the side of the pedal where it's supported by the spindle and not the pedal frame.
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Old 06-09-21, 05:56 PM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
In all seriousness, some observations...

4. Do not lift the bike from the underside of the seat...there could be a wasp nest underneath (ask me how I know)
..
How did you KNOW?



Found that as I discovered that the pedals came off with no drama and both the stem and seat post move freely when properly loosened. So far so good!
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Old 06-10-21, 01:21 AM
  #436  
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Ha-haa I knew I couldn’t be the only one...except I got a gift from a few...

Originally Posted by rustystrings61
How did you KNOW?



Found that as I discovered that the pedals came off with no drama and both the stem and seat post move freely when properly loosened. So far so good!
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Old 06-10-21, 04:59 AM
  #437  
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One of the sucky things about living in the Charleston area is that there are no country roads in certain parts of the area, and very few bike friendly roads either...some of the prettiest roads are death traps to ride. In order to get to decent and safely navigated roads, sometimes (especially from Goose Creek) I have to throw the bike on the car rack and drive out a ways.

Originally Posted by Andy_K
I took the Takara out for a shake down ride this morning along a favorite "playing hookey from working at home" route, over to the Fanno Creek Trail and back. I was pleasantly surprised all around. The brakes were my biggest concern -- I'm still using the gray pads it had when I got it (just sanded down to get a softer surface) and I though someone here had a less than glowing report on them -- but after nervously creeping down the steep hill I live on, I found that they were actually pretty decent. The shifting was great. The handling gave me no reason to complain. The drivetrain was wonderfully quiet. Even the cheap 27" tires didn't feel too stiff. Don't get me wrong, this is not in the same class as my keeper bikes, but if this was the only bike I had, I would be happy to ride it. I'd even say I have two or three other bikes in my garage right now that aren't this nice.

The bike is so clean it glows. Or maybe I need to clean the lens on my camera phone.



Here's another pic of it on one of several bridges crossing Fanno Creek.



Today's distance: 23.6 kilometers
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Old 06-10-21, 06:26 AM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61
... the pedals came off with no drama and both the stem and seat post move freely when properly loosened. So far so good!
I spoke too soon. The Centurion isn't coming along without a fight, after all. I foolishly didn't slather the crank/crank spindle interfaces with appropriate stuff, or maybe that wouldn't have mattered anyway. The crank fixing bolts both required use of the 3-foot length of pipe that in past Challenges has been used to support cranks and BBs while using a big honking' hammer to smack out cotters, and most memorably to straighten the head tube on an old Mercier. It worked beautifully for both crank bolts, and I should just turn to it FIRST.

The drive side crank came off, too, but it involved using a rubber mallet on the Park crank tool to start it to turning 'round. All went well, though, and I moved on to the left crank. Sorry b*$+@*& sheered the crank extractor threads right outa the crank. That crank is sho 'nuff seriously welded to the spindle. I thought about it overnight. This morning I pulled the rest of the parts off the bike while I let assorted chemicals do their thing. The brakes and derailleurs and shifters were easy enough, but what surprised me was how the rear brake cable housing had bonded to the top tube tunnels. In the end I wound up soaking the tunnels in Liquid Wrench while I did my morning ride (cut short by the rain), then used Vise Grips to grab the housing, cable and all and pull firmly. The last piece uncoiled the housing and THEN it finally popped free.

Once everything else was off, I studied the crank again. I tried threading in the 23 mm side of the Park tool, but no go. So I sighed and hauled out the ol' hacksaw and went to work. I made good headway, but I've about reached the point where I'll need to use a Dremel and a cutoff wheel to make the rest of the cuts, I think. Here is where we are now -




At least everything else (except the headset and BB!) came off without too much of an epic struggle. I have a Miche 170 left crank that I think will work for this, once I get everything cleaned and ready to reassemble.



It's okay, it's still fun.

Last edited by rustystrings61; 06-10-21 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 06-10-21, 07:17 AM
  #439  
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you already went onto the hacksaw method, but I actually was able to free a crank from spindle by removing the cups...no small feat but with the drive side off was easier, then taking crank and spindle and soaking in evaporust, of all things, then slathering in WD 40...but I still hAd extractor threads...


Originally Posted by rustystrings61
I spoke too soon. The Centurion isn't coming along without a fight, after all. I foolishly didn't slather the crank/crank spindle interfaces with appropriate stuff, or maybe that wouldn't have mattered anyway. The crank fixing bolts both required use of the 3-foot length of pipe that in past Challenges has been used to support cranks and BBs while using a big honking' hammer to smack out cotters, and most memorably to straighten the head tube on an old Mercier. It worked beautifully for both crank bolts, and I should just turn to it FIRST.

The drive side crank came off, too, but it involved using a rubber mallet on the Park crank tool to start it to turning 'round. All went well, though, and I moved on to the left crank. Sorry b*$+@*& sheered the crank extractor threads right outa the crank. That crank is sho 'nuff seriously welded to the spindle. I thought about it overnight. This morning I pulled the rest of the parts off the bike while I let assorted chemicals do their thing. The brakes and derailleurs and shifters were easy enough, but what surprised me was how the rear brake cable housing had bonded to the top tube tunnels. In the end I wound up soaking the tunnels in Liquid Wrench while I did my morning ride (cut short by the rain), then used Vise Grips to grab the housing, cable and all and pull firmly. The last piece uncoiled the housing and THEN it finally popped free.

Once everything else was off, I studied the crank again. I tried threading in the 23 mm side of the Park tool, but no go. So I sighed and hauled out the ol' hacksaw and went to work. I made good headway, but I've about reached the point where I'll need to use a Dremel and a cutoff wheel to make the rest of the cuts, I think. Here is where we are now -




At least everything else (except the headset and BB!) came off without too much of an epic struggle. I have a Miche 170 left crank that I think will work for this, once I get everything cleaned and ready to reassemble.



It's okay, it's still fun.
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Old 06-10-21, 07:21 AM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
you already went onto the hacksaw method, but I actually was able to free a crank from spindle by removing the cups...no small feat but with the drive side off was easier, then taking crank and spindle and soaking in evaporust, of all things, then slathering in WD 40...but I still hAd extractor threads...
If the BB wasn't simultaneously loose AND gummy AND mildly crunchy I would have put enough parts back on to ride the bike without a fixing bolt and work it loose that way. But, no, the BB is a horror all its own. I am hoping that it's just a matter of cleaning, fresh grease and adjustment.
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Old 06-10-21, 09:59 AM
  #441  
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No progress fo me on the Simplex front derailleur, I ran out to the local tractor and farm supply outlets to see if I could find a chain breaker bigger than bicycle's. I was crap out of luck, Simplex beats me again. Regreased and waiting for another round.


I do have a backup Suntou Vx that I could pop on the Peugeot, but I would feel dirty putting Japan on 72' France.

There was one method that I forgot to post. The Simplex shifters and the Deldrin winged nuts those were rusted and frozen. On the front lever I was able to pinch the plastic at the base with my finger and twist for removal, breaking the corrosion of the screw threads. On the other side it was not as simple, here I racked the grey cells of memory. I had the solution from 1982, the last time I tried the method. I grabbed my small crescent wrench, wrapped the walls with tape and then closed finger tight on the Deldrin and gave it a twist that did not stress the wings and and presto!



So I did not go for a ride on the Peugeot, but I did go out on a thirty mile ride on a non challenger World bike instead when I went out shopping for the tools.
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Old 06-10-21, 10:13 AM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66
No progress fo me on the Simplex front derailleur, I ran out to the local tractor and farm supply outlets to see if I could find a chain breaker bigger than bicycle's. I was crap out of luck, Simplex beats me again. Regreased and waiting for another round.


I do have a backup Suntou Vx that I could pop on the Peugeot, but I would feel dirty putting Japan on 72' France.

There was one method that I forgot to post. The Simplex shifters and the Deldrin winged nuts those were rusted and frozen. On the front lever I was able to pinch the plastic at the base with my finger and twist for removal, breaking the corrosion of the screw threads. On the other side it was not as simple, here I racked the grey cells of memory. I had the solution from 1982, the last time I tried the method. I grabbed my small crescent wrench, wrapped the walls with tape and then closed finger tight on the Deldrin and gave it a twist that did not stress the wings and and presto!



So I did not go for a ride on the Peugeot, but I did go out on a thirty mile ride on a non challenger World bike instead when I went out shopping for the tools.
gorgeous picture!
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Old 06-10-21, 01:15 PM
  #443  
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A little polish and some pantograph detail.

The pedals and clips got some treatment of foil and rubbing compound. They came out good, they already rolled some from international service, the guts came apart looking like all was polished just dry.



A polish and panto for the rest. The details








And the money shot.

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Old 06-11-21, 06:15 AM
  #444  
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Progress

Yesterday morning I remembered to charge the battery for the portable Dremel tool. Last night I spent a few minutes working with a skinny cutting bit to get closer in to the spindle. I then broke out a large cold chisel and a 2 lb hammer, took a deep breath, whacked - and the crank arm popped right off. Yay!



It takes a village (idiot) ....

After that I spent a few minutes cleaning the worst of the grime off the frameset with strip of an old sheet and Meguiar's cutting polish. There is a lot more rust than I initially thought, but I think all will be okay.

This morning I found I couldn't get the headset locknut to budge, so I liberally soaked it with Liquid Wrench - we'll see what that does for us. Then I attacked the BB. The cups are in good shape, the bearings acceptable, and the spindle will do for now, but there are some pits. I remind myself that this is the Clunker Challenge, and perhaps afterwards I'll pop in another spindle, or perhaps even a whole cartridge unit. It all went back together smoothly with fresh grease.

Finally, I remembered to take a photo for the great serial number collection -



1987 for the 1988 model year?

My side challenge - can I get this bike assembled and shaken down in time to take it with me on the family beach vacation next Saturday?
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Old 06-11-21, 06:31 AM
  #445  
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I vote that I have confidence it will be nice and crustily-ready for the beach trip! Which beach?

Originally Posted by rustystrings61
Yesterday morning I remembered to charge the battery for the portable Dremel tool. Last night I spent a few minutes working with a skinny cutting bit to get closer in to the spindle. I then broke out a large cold chisel and a 2 lb hammer, took a deep breath, whacked - and the crank arm popped right off. Yay!



It takes a village (idiot) ....

After that I spent a few minutes cleaning the worst of the grime off the frameset with strip of an old sheet and Meguiar's cutting polish. There is a lot more rust than I initially thought, but I think all will be okay.

This morning I found I couldn't get the headset locknut to budge, so I liberally soaked it with Liquid Wrench - we'll see what that does for us. Then I attacked the BB. The cups are in good shape, the bearings acceptable, and the spindle will do for now, but there are some pits. I remind myself that this is the Clunker Challenge, and perhaps afterwards I'll pop in another spindle, or perhaps even a whole cartridge unit. It all went back together smoothly with fresh grease.

Finally, I remembered to take a photo for the great serial number collection -



1987 for the 1988 model year?

My side challenge - can I get this bike assembled and shaken down in time to take it with me on the family beach vacation next Saturday?
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Old 06-11-21, 06:33 AM
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Do you paint pantos, then scrape the excess, or do the toothpick method?


Originally Posted by Mr. 66
A little polish and some pantograph detail.

The pedals and clips got some treatment of foil and rubbing compound. They came out good, they already rolled some from international service, the guts came apart looking like all was polished just dry.



A polish and panto for the rest. The details








And the money shot.
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Old 06-11-21, 08:09 AM
  #447  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61
Yesterday morning I remembered to charge the battery for the portable Dremel tool. Last night I spent a few minutes working with a skinny cutting bit to get closer in to the spindle. I then broke out a large cold chisel and a 2 lb hammer, took a deep breath, whacked - and the crank arm popped right off. Yay!



It takes a village (idiot) ....

After that I spent a few minutes cleaning the worst of the grime off the frameset with strip of an old sheet and Meguiar's cutting polish. There is a lot more rust than I initially thought, but I think all will be okay.

This morning I found I couldn't get the headset locknut to budge, so I liberally soaked it with Liquid Wrench - we'll see what that does for us. Then I attacked the BB. The cups are in good shape, the bearings acceptable, and the spindle will do for now, but there are some pits. I remind myself that this is the Clunker Challenge, and perhaps afterwards I'll pop in another spindle, or perhaps even a whole cartridge unit. It all went back together smoothly with fresh grease.

Finally, I remembered to take a photo for the great serial number collection -



1987 for the 1988 model year?

My side challenge - can I get this bike assembled and shaken down in time to take it with me on the family beach vacation next Saturday?
As Marv Albert used to say, "Yes!"
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Old 06-11-21, 08:22 AM
  #448  
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Yesterday's ride 42 miles plus a 4 mile gravel hike

Bledsoe Vinyard

The northern most of the Blue Mountains


Saddle Mountain, I'll be hiking at the left side of photo riding up Cottonwood dr.


This was only about fifteen minutes after the shots with all the ☁️
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Old 06-11-21, 08:39 AM
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About a mile in on the hike

Same spot as above, and a lot more uphill to go

And up more

More again, this is a private road to the peak. This is the first time I've seen the gate open. I did not proceed.

Pike's Peak rd. Going down

At the bottom

From the bottom of Pike's Peak rd


And the refueling spot
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Old 06-11-21, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Do you paint pantos, then scrape the excess, or do the toothpick method?
I dab the paint, then wipe immediately. If it dries I'll put a few drops of solvent on a cloth and wipe gingerly as to not dig into the engraved area. If it's been dry a couple of day I'll use 0000 steel wool to clean up.
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