Replaced chain/cogs still getting skip...
05-17-21, 05:06 AM
#1
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Replaced chain/cogs still getting skip...
I have an old mtbike. Was getting chain skip from old chain. Replaced it and cogs and am still getting chain skip! ...I also get some auto-shift. Think they're related? Will worn pulleys do it? Hmmm, aren't some pulleys round and smooth? So i question if they cause skip. Will flex/slop in der mount do it? I can work on snugging that up. I do notice a bit of play there. Thanks...
05-17-21, 06:17 AM
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It sounds like you might want a new or salvaged RD. And check, or have a shop check, the hanger alignment. First, make sure basic adjustments are correct--high limit, cable tension, low limit.
05-17-21, 06:48 AM
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If you've done a lot of off-road miles on the bike on dirt, it's possible that the chainrings are worn, too, so check those.
Also, check the chain to make sure that you didn't leave a tight link when you installed it.
And check the routing of the chain through the pulley wheels of the rear derailleur. It's very easy to neglect to route the chain over rather than under the chain retainer tab (it's behind the tensioner wheel).
Also, check the chain to make sure that you didn't leave a tight link when you installed it.
And check the routing of the chain through the pulley wheels of the rear derailleur. It's very easy to neglect to route the chain over rather than under the chain retainer tab (it's behind the tensioner wheel).
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05-17-21, 09:24 AM
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+1 Hanger alignment
Barry
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05-18-21, 12:16 AM
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and, make sure the chain is actually the correct length. there are online chain length calculators for this
05-21-21, 01:53 PM
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XT derailler is original.
chainrings look fine, not shark tooth. haven't experienced chainring skip before -- is it a realistic concern? does it feel the same as cog skip? relevant to bring up?
hanger not bent/twisted
high and low limit: not relevant -- skips wherever
chain length: usual chain wrap standards used
Mounting bolt tight but there is small slop in der body --
So... where/why have ppl experienced skip and autoshift after chain and cassette are replaced?
chainrings look fine, not shark tooth. haven't experienced chainring skip before -- is it a realistic concern? does it feel the same as cog skip? relevant to bring up?
hanger not bent/twisted
high and low limit: not relevant -- skips wherever
chain length: usual chain wrap standards used
Mounting bolt tight but there is small slop in der body --
So... where/why have ppl experienced skip and autoshift after chain and cassette are replaced?
05-21-21, 02:16 PM
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Auto shifting can often be a cable issue. As simple as wrong cable tension (or actually length) or as bad as cable and/or housing fraying/collapsing or housing strands poking through the end caps.
Skipping can be part of auto shifting, when the chain doesn't actually derail to another cog but is trying to. But skipping can also be caused by other things like a tight chain link or when in the smallest cog the wrong cassette lock ring being used.
One test is to block out the der's movement via the cable and see what happens. I've installed a cable only within the der as a test many times. The cable head is seated where the casing end goes and the der is held in position under the cog of your choice while the anchor bolt is tightened, yes this means the cable is only an effective few inches long. The rest of the cable's run and the shift lever are now out of the system. If the chain stops skipping then you need to look at the cable and/or the shift lever. Andy
Skipping can be part of auto shifting, when the chain doesn't actually derail to another cog but is trying to. But skipping can also be caused by other things like a tight chain link or when in the smallest cog the wrong cassette lock ring being used.
One test is to block out the der's movement via the cable and see what happens. I've installed a cable only within the der as a test many times. The cable head is seated where the casing end goes and the der is held in position under the cog of your choice while the anchor bolt is tightened, yes this means the cable is only an effective few inches long. The rest of the cable's run and the shift lever are now out of the system. If the chain stops skipping then you need to look at the cable and/or the shift lever. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
05-22-21, 08:08 AM
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Auto shifting can often be a cable issue. As simple as wrong cable tension (or actually length) or as bad as cable and/or housing fraying/collapsing or housing strands poking through the end caps.
Skipping can be part of auto shifting, when the chain doesn't actually derail to another cog but is trying to. But skipping can also be caused by other things like a tight chain link or when in the smallest cog the wrong cassette lock ring being used.
One test is to block out the der's movement via the cable and see what happens. I've installed a cable only within the der as a test many times. The cable head is seated where the casing end goes and the der is held in position under the cog of your choice while the anchor bolt is tightened, yes this means the cable is only an effective few inches long. The rest of the cable's run and the shift lever are now out of the system. If the chain stops skipping then you need to look at the cable and/or the shift lever. Andy
Skipping can be part of auto shifting, when the chain doesn't actually derail to another cog but is trying to. But skipping can also be caused by other things like a tight chain link or when in the smallest cog the wrong cassette lock ring being used.
One test is to block out the der's movement via the cable and see what happens. I've installed a cable only within the der as a test many times. The cable head is seated where the casing end goes and the der is held in position under the cog of your choice while the anchor bolt is tightened, yes this means the cable is only an effective few inches long. The rest of the cable's run and the shift lever are now out of the system. If the chain stops skipping then you need to look at the cable and/or the shift lever. Andy
