Opinions about frames without fork
#26
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,601
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3869 Post(s)
Liked 6,454 Times
in
3,192 Posts
I've done it once on a frame-up Motobécane build, and it turned out great.
But I did have a lot of help from the seller. He found me a perfect black/chrome Ishiwata fork, maybe a week after my purchase. I trusted him and he really came through. I ended up buying three bikes from him.
I bought another bike, a Miyata 912, from its original owner with a replacement Tange fork, and it's still in my lineup. I absolutely love it. He replaced/upgraded the original hi-ten fork right off the bat, though.
.
With any used bike purchase, always run your hand over the tubes to ensure that no bulges are felt, especially in the front end. I also look for a perfect looking headset stack height.
But I did have a lot of help from the seller. He found me a perfect black/chrome Ishiwata fork, maybe a week after my purchase. I trusted him and he really came through. I ended up buying three bikes from him.
I bought another bike, a Miyata 912, from its original owner with a replacement Tange fork, and it's still in my lineup. I absolutely love it. He replaced/upgraded the original hi-ten fork right off the bat, though.
.
With any used bike purchase, always run your hand over the tubes to ensure that no bulges are felt, especially in the front end. I also look for a perfect looking headset stack height.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,606
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 581 Post(s)
Liked 921 Times
in
518 Posts
The main problem would be ensuring that you can find a fork to fit. There are a bunch of headset standards and it might be tough to find a fork that simultaneously fits your headset, frame and stem. IT is likely there will be some sort of workaround, but I wouldn't drop any $$ on a frame without being certain I can make it work.
#28
十人十色
Not the most recent photo but you get the idea. (Note to self: must take photos...)
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: STP
Posts: 14,491
Mentioned: 74 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 821 Post(s)
Liked 255 Times
in
142 Posts
I bought a nice Dave Kirk built CSI with a F1 carbon fork. I just had a new fork built locally with a pretty decent color match. Looks pretty! Why? I have an underlying distrust of used CF forks, so in this case a frame was all I really wanted.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,696
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1946 Post(s)
Liked 2,004 Times
in
1,105 Posts
Forks are easier to ship than bikes. If folks part out a bike, the fork might be sold and the frame sold locally and cheap. And so it goes--someone looking for a fork.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,420
Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 221 Post(s)
Liked 237 Times
in
129 Posts
For years I owned an early Lambert (threaded bottom bracket) with an aftermarket fork. Given the reputation of the Death Fork, that was the only non-matching pair I was ever comfortable buying. Over the years I had it, I slowly replaced all the aftermarket components with Lambert originals - and, bit by bit, slowly watched the performance of a really good bike degrade. By the time I sold it (three years ago) it was back to original except for the rear derailleur, which I figured I'd never find, and if I did would refuse to put on the bike. I remember them from when Lambert's were new. As pictured is the way I originally bought it, and put it on the road.
__________________
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
Likes For sykerocker:
#32
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,070
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
336 Posts
Depends what you want to do with the bike. Some bikes in the 90's will benefit from a better fork, especially the older carbon forks like Kestrel.
Classic steel bikes were, I want to think, designed with the fork in mind, and the fork designed for the frame, so I'd hesitate on those.
Many Colnago owners swap out for a Precisa, maybe for performance, maybe for looks, not sure.
Classic steel bikes were, I want to think, designed with the fork in mind, and the fork designed for the frame, so I'd hesitate on those.
Many Colnago owners swap out for a Precisa, maybe for performance, maybe for looks, not sure.
Likes For bamboobike4:
#33
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Posts: 3,693
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1531 Post(s)
Liked 1,527 Times
in
915 Posts
I was wondering about this; there's a Miyata TripleCross frame, no fork, on my local CL. It looks rough, but possibly worth saving. Not my jam, but maybe someone else’s.
Last edited by Korina; 01-25-22 at 08:34 PM.
#34
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,772
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2434 Post(s)
Liked 3,107 Times
in
1,957 Posts
Count me among those who won’t buy without the fork. Too many variables in fitting it...
Not as worried about accidents.
Almost took the plunge on a Rossin, but it would have cost an extra $300 for the fork, which made it a few hundred more than buying a similar frame full out.
Plus matching pantographing and such.
Not as worried about accidents.
Almost took the plunge on a Rossin, but it would have cost an extra $300 for the fork, which made it a few hundred more than buying a similar frame full out.
Plus matching pantographing and such.
Likes For jdawginsc:
#35
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,604
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10947 Post(s)
Liked 7,473 Times
in
4,181 Posts
The idea that a fork was designed to match a frame, while accurate, is also overblown.
Fork rake just isn't a big deal as replacement forks come in multiple common rakes.
And A-C length is certainly unique depending on the bike's intended use, but even that has some general ranges that largely make it a non-issue. 365-377mm A-C forks are still readily available in 1" steerer..
To each their own and all though.
Fork rake just isn't a big deal as replacement forks come in multiple common rakes.
And A-C length is certainly unique depending on the bike's intended use, but even that has some general ranges that largely make it a non-issue. 365-377mm A-C forks are still readily available in 1" steerer..
To each their own and all though.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,866
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 661 Times
in
504 Posts
OTOH, in a crash one could end up with nasty creased main tubes and a decently well-surviving fork, so ....
I engaged in fork experimentation on my 1984 Trek 610. First I thought the steering was unstable when climbing at low speed, so I though more trail would be the solution. Off to the frame shop, cold-set it backwards about 10 mm, and rode. A sport-tourer was transformed into having the steering of more of a road racer (59 mm trail), but still not so good in a slow climb. All my climbs are slow climbs BTW. I think the improvement was mainly due to the whole frame having been aligned very precisely, especially in terms of coplanarity, and I had a brand-new Campy headset installed. Natural fork response was as good as it can be. I also inherited a problem of toe-wheel interference even without the fender I now wanted to add. Frame shop #1 did not want to cold set my fork blades again, he was concerned about weakening the CrMo, possibly 531 blades.
I discovered a (now-closed) local shop, Ypsilanti Cycles, where the owner has a frame building background and he was willing to design and build a low-trail high-offset for for me with the ride height equalized (head tube angle as specified by Trek). He could not paint it properly, but he did rattle-can it pretty darn well! Now I have offset about 65 mm, 73 head angle, and trail about 38 mm. The for blades are pretty long and I handled the resulting brake reach with a Mafac Racer, about 70 mm. But to design that fork was essentially to measure up the bike, model it in BikeCad, then model a new fork which made my BICYCLE have desirable properties, which we discussed, along with my riding preferences and habits. The bike ever since has climbed in a straight line way better than in the past.
I think the design of the custom fork was nearly as much work as designing a custom bike!
For me: Don't lose your fork!