Journey of Raleigh MV8
#1
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Thread Starter
Journey of Raleigh MV8
Being a mini velo lover, i had my ultralight weight carbon mv but i still hope to have something more classic. I been searching high and low for those classic mv frame but either it was hard to get or it was too expensive for me. Until i chanced upon a 2nd hand raleigh mv8, it wasnt exactly the classic geometry but overall i was still pleased with it and the down tube was kinda interesting too. And somehow i googled around for built ideas and saw sadisticnoob thread and pinholecam contributions and it further sparked my reason to pimp it haha.
So here i will document my journey and sharing to transform the stock mv into my final desired outcome.
Lets begin with an original stock photo and some work/observations:
Original stock bike bought second hand.
Some Issues/Observations:
- Worn out housing and inner cables.
- Steel fork has a defect from manufacturer with lower base tube of the brake mount having an obvious chipped-off.
- Aluminium rims have been slightly damaged by the brake pads as owner did not swap out when the exposed brake pad metal frame inside the pad starts to scratch and eat into rim.
- Crank is interesting, its aluminium with a steel spider.
- Vbrakes are aluminium.
- Internal routing sizing is made to insert entire housing through!
- Crankset and bottom bracket gonna be a pain in the ass. (I see rusty pedals' spindle and rough bearings, adding on more pain to the ass haha)
Here's the plan. Im going to convert it to 1x7 speed dropbar. Color and feel will be towards something more classic/retro. I decided on navy blue with silver color scheme for this purpose. Gum/tan/yellow wall tires coupled with brown bartape and saddle. I will salvage what parts i can/need.
First off will be stripping the bike apart and remove paint off the frame and fork. This is the most tedious process as multiple coats and scrapping was needed. After the surface paint was removed, there was also the stubborn primer layer. Depending on the type of chemical agent used, do standby mask, goggles, arm sleeve etc. I had a rather stinging experience when i tried scraping off the paint. The tiny bits that were scrapped off dropped onto my arms and legs along the way and it stings very badly on my skin due to the chemical! Can you imagine if it gets into your eyes or nasal?
Stay tune for more updates along this journey with me (i mean my mv haha)
So here i will document my journey and sharing to transform the stock mv into my final desired outcome.
Lets begin with an original stock photo and some work/observations:
Original stock bike bought second hand.
Some Issues/Observations:
- Worn out housing and inner cables.
- Steel fork has a defect from manufacturer with lower base tube of the brake mount having an obvious chipped-off.
- Aluminium rims have been slightly damaged by the brake pads as owner did not swap out when the exposed brake pad metal frame inside the pad starts to scratch and eat into rim.
- Crank is interesting, its aluminium with a steel spider.
- Vbrakes are aluminium.
- Internal routing sizing is made to insert entire housing through!
- Crankset and bottom bracket gonna be a pain in the ass. (I see rusty pedals' spindle and rough bearings, adding on more pain to the ass haha)
Here's the plan. Im going to convert it to 1x7 speed dropbar. Color and feel will be towards something more classic/retro. I decided on navy blue with silver color scheme for this purpose. Gum/tan/yellow wall tires coupled with brown bartape and saddle. I will salvage what parts i can/need.
First off will be stripping the bike apart and remove paint off the frame and fork. This is the most tedious process as multiple coats and scrapping was needed. After the surface paint was removed, there was also the stubborn primer layer. Depending on the type of chemical agent used, do standby mask, goggles, arm sleeve etc. I had a rather stinging experience when i tried scraping off the paint. The tiny bits that were scrapped off dropped onto my arms and legs along the way and it stings very badly on my skin due to the chemical! Can you imagine if it gets into your eyes or nasal?
Stay tune for more updates along this journey with me (i mean my mv haha)
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#6
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Bikes: '99 Trek 520, '20 Kona Sutra (FOR SALE 48cm), '21 Simon-Bikes mini-velo and a chromoly-framed folding bicycle with drop-bars and V-brakes, that rolls even while folded.
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I would pay a sandblaster to remove all the paint. Or even get it powdercoated (original paint removal is usually included in the process).
Can you share this info on the bicycle:
What are the widest tires that this bicycle will accept?
Can it use the 100mm front hub?
Can you share this info on the bicycle:
What are the widest tires that this bicycle will accept?
Can it use the 100mm front hub?
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
The way i see this frame and fork, and the rim itself it has no issue going from 1.75-2.0 tires. But if you to mod into 451 then probably have to check your rear seat stay clearance. The stock fork itself is 100mm o.l.d.
#8
QR-disc must die!!!
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Shenandoah Valley, Northern Virginia.
Posts: 703
Bikes: '99 Trek 520, '20 Kona Sutra (FOR SALE 48cm), '21 Simon-Bikes mini-velo and a chromoly-framed folding bicycle with drop-bars and V-brakes, that rolls even while folded.
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There are many ways to get a value of "1" for eg. 3-2, 1x1 etc so on haha. I think it varies on individual's circumstances. For me i wanted to save up abit on spending and also get some hands-on experiences in the process of diy'ing myself.
The way i see this frame and fork, and the rim itself it has no issue going from 1.75-2.0 tires. But if you to mod into 451 then probably have to check your rear seat stay clearance. The stock fork itself is 100mm o.l.d.
The way i see this frame and fork, and the rim itself it has no issue going from 1.75-2.0 tires. But if you to mod into 451 then probably have to check your rear seat stay clearance. The stock fork itself is 100mm o.l.d.
I have another another question about the frame: Will the rear dropouts take a 135mm hub without spreading them apart?
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#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Alright, don't wear out yourself, then. Leather gloves might be your friend, here. Or put on rubber gloves first, then the leather over them. I know what manual manipulation with caustic liquids can do, even while wearing rubber gloves.
I have another another question about the frame: Will the rear dropouts take a 135mm hub without spreading them apart?
I have another another question about the frame: Will the rear dropouts take a 135mm hub without spreading them apart?
For this particular frame, its a rear 135mm. If you happen to have a 130mm hub i find it better and safer as i only need to diy add a few spacers (probably 5x 1mm thickness) and try center the wheel to the frame/braking. With aluminium (the stiffness nature of it) dont force them to space out as they are not like steel. Forcing a 5mm i personally have a fear of safety issue in run long as the strain might cause some critical failure.
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#10
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Thread Starter
Time for some updates; sanding and priming journey:
Endless sanding lol, some scratches are quite deep, i have to play around with 150, 240, 400 grit. Welds are a pain in the a**, i had to deploy my mini 12v rotary tool haha. When you dont strip paint and primer well, you will end up with more work. It was nightmarish for me
first 1-2 coats of priming. had a little mishap of my shirt getting caught, bad mistake... which later will translate into alot learning experiences for me hehe.
This is the part where it the accident happened. Had to do more work to sand it smooth else the main color coat or subsequent priming layers wont fill up as nice and smooth.
Next up will be main color coating yahoooooo
Endless sanding lol, some scratches are quite deep, i have to play around with 150, 240, 400 grit. Welds are a pain in the a**, i had to deploy my mini 12v rotary tool haha. When you dont strip paint and primer well, you will end up with more work. It was nightmarish for me
first 1-2 coats of priming. had a little mishap of my shirt getting caught, bad mistake... which later will translate into alot learning experiences for me hehe.
This is the part where it the accident happened. Had to do more work to sand it smooth else the main color coat or subsequent priming layers wont fill up as nice and smooth.
Next up will be main color coating yahoooooo
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#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Main color coating
first coat
first few spray coating. while it looks good dont be deceived haha. its not as saturated and well layered to show the real color yet.
mistake, learning from experience sob sob. luckily still have chance to patch it up
diy rig hehe
first few coats of lacquer, you can see how the real blue color is starting to deepen and showing up after more than 3-4coats. Do give it enough time to let it dry out inbetween so u can see the coloration and areas where it may need touching up.
testing a badge to see the color and feel. good old raleigh badge.
I will be getting some custom decals to stick on before coating with more lacquer
first coat
first few spray coating. while it looks good dont be deceived haha. its not as saturated and well layered to show the real color yet.
mistake, learning from experience sob sob. luckily still have chance to patch it up
diy rig hehe
first few coats of lacquer, you can see how the real blue color is starting to deepen and showing up after more than 3-4coats. Do give it enough time to let it dry out inbetween so u can see the coloration and areas where it may need touching up.
testing a badge to see the color and feel. good old raleigh badge.
I will be getting some custom decals to stick on before coating with more lacquer
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#12
QR-disc must die!!!
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Shenandoah Valley, Northern Virginia.
Posts: 703
Bikes: '99 Trek 520, '20 Kona Sutra (FOR SALE 48cm), '21 Simon-Bikes mini-velo and a chromoly-framed folding bicycle with drop-bars and V-brakes, that rolls even while folded.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
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Looking great!!!
#14
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Thread Starter
Been quite a long while. Having some hiccups over my side.
Here's a little update to the problematic fork which i had some mishap over it as well haha. I couldn't unscrew the vbrake shoe screw and it suffered alot of damage during the misc attempts and methods ended up removing them altogether. Decided to go for caliper and did some mod to it since i had some old recessed caliper laying around. Did abit of dremel for both fork, frame and nut.
Here's a little update to the problematic fork which i had some mishap over it as well haha. I couldn't unscrew the vbrake shoe screw and it suffered alot of damage during the misc attempts and methods ended up removing them altogether. Decided to go for caliper and did some mod to it since i had some old recessed caliper laying around. Did abit of dremel for both fork, frame and nut.
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#16
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#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
time for some before and after diy itchy hands work haha reusing some old parts which i had and decided to let it fit the color scheme better
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#19
Newbie
Thread Starter
managed to restore the seatpost abit sad news the caliper brake couldn't fit my 451x1.35 tires due to the design of the spring which rub against the tires. had to order another pair with bigger width clearance. also had issue with my dropbar as i didnt checked my stem length correctly, so it was abit too short together with the compact short reach dropbar. and the original stock stem was a 25.4mm dia so i had to get another stem