26ers
01-31-20, 04:11 PM
#51
Senior Member
02-09-20, 09:53 AM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
So my tires came with tubes and I wanted to convert it to tubeless, despite all the problems I've read people have had dealing with tubeless. Never used them myself. Got my valves and sealant and went to work yesterday because I was planning on riding all day today.
HOLY FU**ING SHI*
This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
HOLY FU**ING SHI*
This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
02-09-20, 11:00 AM
#53
Senior Member
So my tires came with tubes and I wanted to convert it to tubeless, despite all the problems I've read people have had dealing with tubeless. Never used them myself. Got my valves and sealant and went to work yesterday because I was planning on riding all day today.
HOLY FU**ING SHI*
This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
HOLY FU**ING SHI*
This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
02-09-20, 11:22 AM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
That being said, if I were you I would convert it to tubeless because your chances of getting a flat are reduced. You aren't going to be able to take that tube out and patch/replace it on the trail. At least I sure as hell ain't.
Last edited by Lazyass; 02-09-20 at 11:25 AM.
02-09-20, 11:31 AM
#55
Senior Member
I've gotten hard beads off by stepping on the tire, heel closest to the rim as possible, and pulling up with the wheel.
With getting the tires to seal, I've had wheels that were super easy where my basic floor pump seated it with no problem, and some I needed a compressor with. Using a schrader to presta adapter limits the air flow to the tire so those didn't work. It does help to remove the core from the valve to get more air flow. Also, make sure your tape job is good, otherwise you may have to redo it.
With getting the tires to seal, I've had wheels that were super easy where my basic floor pump seated it with no problem, and some I needed a compressor with. Using a schrader to presta adapter limits the air flow to the tire so those didn't work. It does help to remove the core from the valve to get more air flow. Also, make sure your tape job is good, otherwise you may have to redo it.
Likes For katsup:
02-09-20, 04:22 PM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
Hobbit712
Success! With no damn air compressor lol. These WTB's are hella tight so here is what you need:
A good tire lever that has a deep hook like Pedro's. I dug around and found an old one I had. A heatgun or a hair dryer. I read about the hair dryer method but I had a heat gun. Get an empty spray bottle and mix some dish soap with water to use as lubricant. For air I used my regular floor pump, didn't need a compressor. And of course a valve core remover. You can use a chain breaker if you have one, it fits. A spoke wrench will also work.
When you deflate the tire and go to initially push the bead off the rim hook you will see it won't hardly move. Use a heat gun/hair dryer to heat up a section of the rim and bead, it will expand the aluminum and soften the rubber. When I did that I was able to actually push the bead off the rim hook with my hand but you might need to stick a tire lever in there. Once you get a tiny section popped off the rest comes off with little effort.
Pull the bead off the rim with a tire lever and pull the tube out. Then install tubeless valve stem.
Before you go to pry the tire back on spray the dish soap lubricant all around the rim and bead. Pry on as much as you can by hand then use a tire lever for the rest like any regular tire. When it's all lubed up it goes on fairly easily. Since I messed with the tire so many times it did seem to get easier, I probably stretched the rubber out. I may even be able to install an emergency tube on the trail.
Now you're left with having to just press the bead into the rim hook. In the video below go to the 3:00 mark and do what he does, it's hard to explain. If your lever doesn't have a deep hook it will probably keep coming off. I again lubed everything before I did it. With the valve stem at the 12:00 I started at the 9:00, went up and past the 12. After I got it about 3/4 beaded it got too tight to do more. So I removed the valve core and attached my floor pump. I was sure it wasn't going to hold air but..........
Since it was beaded at the stem and on the majority of the tire it actually held air,and when I got to about 25psi there was a loud pop as the entire tire beaded. DONE.
Then squirt the sealant through the valve stem and you're done.
If you're like me and stupidly pop the bead off the opposite side (I don't know why I did that) or if you're installing a new tire then do this:
Mount the tire on one side, install the tube, then mount the other side as if you were just installing a tube in a regular tire. Then you're left with each side unbeaded. Lube both sides then inflate the tube until the beads pop into the rim hooks. Pop off one bead and remove tube. Now you're left with one side beaded and the other not. Then just follow all instructions above.......
Success! With no damn air compressor lol. These WTB's are hella tight so here is what you need:
A good tire lever that has a deep hook like Pedro's. I dug around and found an old one I had. A heatgun or a hair dryer. I read about the hair dryer method but I had a heat gun. Get an empty spray bottle and mix some dish soap with water to use as lubricant. For air I used my regular floor pump, didn't need a compressor. And of course a valve core remover. You can use a chain breaker if you have one, it fits. A spoke wrench will also work.
When you deflate the tire and go to initially push the bead off the rim hook you will see it won't hardly move. Use a heat gun/hair dryer to heat up a section of the rim and bead, it will expand the aluminum and soften the rubber. When I did that I was able to actually push the bead off the rim hook with my hand but you might need to stick a tire lever in there. Once you get a tiny section popped off the rest comes off with little effort.
Pull the bead off the rim with a tire lever and pull the tube out. Then install tubeless valve stem.
Before you go to pry the tire back on spray the dish soap lubricant all around the rim and bead. Pry on as much as you can by hand then use a tire lever for the rest like any regular tire. When it's all lubed up it goes on fairly easily. Since I messed with the tire so many times it did seem to get easier, I probably stretched the rubber out. I may even be able to install an emergency tube on the trail.
Now you're left with having to just press the bead into the rim hook. In the video below go to the 3:00 mark and do what he does, it's hard to explain. If your lever doesn't have a deep hook it will probably keep coming off. I again lubed everything before I did it. With the valve stem at the 12:00 I started at the 9:00, went up and past the 12. After I got it about 3/4 beaded it got too tight to do more. So I removed the valve core and attached my floor pump. I was sure it wasn't going to hold air but..........
Since it was beaded at the stem and on the majority of the tire it actually held air,and when I got to about 25psi there was a loud pop as the entire tire beaded. DONE.
Then squirt the sealant through the valve stem and you're done.
If you're like me and stupidly pop the bead off the opposite side (I don't know why I did that) or if you're installing a new tire then do this:
Mount the tire on one side, install the tube, then mount the other side as if you were just installing a tube in a regular tire. Then you're left with each side unbeaded. Lube both sides then inflate the tube until the beads pop into the rim hooks. Pop off one bead and remove tube. Now you're left with one side beaded and the other not. Then just follow all instructions above.......
02-10-20, 07:38 AM
#58
Senior Member
02-10-20, 07:56 AM
#59
Banned.
Thread Starter
I still maintain a stable of 26" mountain bikes. Yes they're old, and outdated in comparison to modern mountain bikes. But for the trails that I ride on, which are mostly hard pack double track and carriage trails, a modern mountain bike is not required. 26" is cheap and perfectly suited to less demanding off-road fun.
Here's an old lugged 1990 Trek 950 that I just brought back from the dead.
This is the 1993 Rockhopper that I use for bikepacking.
Here's an old lugged 1990 Trek 950 that I just brought back from the dead.
This is the 1993 Rockhopper that I use for bikepacking.
Last edited by Rajflyboy; 02-10-20 at 07:59 AM.
02-10-20, 08:03 AM
#60
Intrepid Bicycle Commuter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 819
Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times
in
34 Posts
Schwalbe 26X2.25 Table Tops. Very supple. Very light in weight. Kind of expensive, in comparison to my usually cheapies. I just finished the build, and it's the middle of winter here in Upstate New York, so I haven't had a chance to test them off-road yet. But they're awesome for curb hopping.
02-10-20, 08:48 AM
#61
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,618
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2973 Post(s)
Liked 1,178 Times
in
769 Posts
So my tires came with tubes and I wanted to convert it to tubeless, despite all the problems I've read people have had dealing with tubeless. Never used them myself. Got my valves and sealant and went to work yesterday because I was planning on riding all day today.
HOLY FU**ING SHI*
This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
HOLY FU**ING SHI*
This is a nightmare I never dreamed of. It's just not happening and my riding plans for today have gone up in flames. After a few hours I have accomplished getting the tube out of the front tire. That's it. I refuse to buy an air compressor just to mount freaking bicycle tires and even if I wanted to, or wanted to use one at the gas station, I have no presta adapter and no place to buy one because I live in the country with no bike shops. I can't do the put the tube back in/pump up to seat bead method because I CAN'T GET THE DAMN BEAD BACK OFF TO PUT THE TUBE BACK IN. And now I also know if I get a bad puncture on the trail or a sidewall cut, using a tube to make it back just isn't going to happen. I'll be screwed. I'm pissed beyond words. Sorry, had to rant. I don't even want to look at the damn bike now.
And you don't need an air compressor or gas station.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
02-10-20, 12:59 PM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
I've set up tubeless on those same exact wheels. Was a piece of cake. Not sure why you had so much trouble.
And you don't need an air compressor or gas station.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
And you don't need an air compressor or gas station.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...olorCode=black
02-10-20, 04:27 PM
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
02-10-20, 07:03 PM
#65
Banned.
Thread Starter
Just take it down to local bike shop
they will hook you up and fix it all for you (doesn’t cost much if anything)
they will hook you up and fix it all for you (doesn’t cost much if anything)
02-10-20, 08:41 PM
#66
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,783
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12736 Post(s)
Liked 7,645 Times
in
4,054 Posts
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
02-10-20, 10:09 PM
#67
Senior Member
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
You could probably save the sealant if you are careful, the tape is a loss though.
02-11-20, 08:33 AM
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,618
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2973 Post(s)
Liked 1,178 Times
in
769 Posts
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
02-14-20, 05:44 AM
#70
Senior Member
Well, the nightmare has begun again. Noticed the tire was losing air. It's leaking from the valve. I pulled the valve out and did the method of using a small piece of rubber from an old tube and putting the valve through that to help it seal, made sure the tape was trimmed around the hole and it's still leaking. Apparently it could be leaking from anywhere and my last option is to pull the f****** tire and retape it or some BS. And of course I already put the sealant in it so now that will be $$ wasted.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
Tubeless freaking sucks. Straight up sucks. I might make my 1 1/2 hour round trip to the shop to have them do it then sell the goda** bike and just ride my old Cannondale F4.
02-15-20, 03:44 PM
#71
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I had a specailized 26 rockhopper 2017 i think. the frame cracked on it and as Specialized don't do 26" any more they agave me a new 29er. absolutely gutted to start with. 26er area lot more nimble but for the ageing rider a 29er feels a lot quicker for the same energy
02-16-20, 09:28 PM
#72
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,373
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 70 Times
in
63 Posts
not all bikes are equal,
started on 26rs like most then got my first 29 (Lenz Leviathan) which felt like I was 10ft high.
After a few trials found the perfect 29r (Banshee Prime) but then found more love with a 29+ Carver and 29 SS Niner, which then I switched to 27.5+ for the Banshee and couldn't ride my Klein Rascal or Ellsworth Specialist.
Then my buddy sold me his first Gen Ibis Mojo and I fell back in love with 26r for a bit. Reforked the Ellsworth but the Klein still feels terrible.
In the end ride what you got, trends and preferences change. Wheel sizes don't mount up to a hill of bean
started on 26rs like most then got my first 29 (Lenz Leviathan) which felt like I was 10ft high.
After a few trials found the perfect 29r (Banshee Prime) but then found more love with a 29+ Carver and 29 SS Niner, which then I switched to 27.5+ for the Banshee and couldn't ride my Klein Rascal or Ellsworth Specialist.
Then my buddy sold me his first Gen Ibis Mojo and I fell back in love with 26r for a bit. Reforked the Ellsworth but the Klein still feels terrible.
In the end ride what you got, trends and preferences change. Wheel sizes don't mount up to a hill of bean
02-19-20, 12:16 AM
#73
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Laredo/Monterrey
Posts: 47
Bikes: '18 Specialized vita sport, '90 nishiki, '90 alubike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
thinking on a 26 proyect
so, here is the thing
there are.some friends that are starting to go to mtb competions and have invited me to ride bikes.
I just have a road bike and a urban bike so i took both to a recreational ride and survived (its a park but some parts are rocky)
and there are some shimano 26" mt55 rims laying around the shop (it seems we wont sell them anytime soon
soooo i thought about buying and old mtb frame and have the mtb bike as a proyect.
i once made an old trek frame proyect but that bike is not longer with me and had v brakes, this rims are for 9-10 sp and have disc brakes
so, my question is (this seems like a good place instead of starting a thread) what kind of frame will you recommend for this proyect?
i already have the rims and im thinking on making it 9x3 and have a new suntour fork
will.appreciate the input y'all
there are.some friends that are starting to go to mtb competions and have invited me to ride bikes.
I just have a road bike and a urban bike so i took both to a recreational ride and survived (its a park but some parts are rocky)
and there are some shimano 26" mt55 rims laying around the shop (it seems we wont sell them anytime soon
soooo i thought about buying and old mtb frame and have the mtb bike as a proyect.
i once made an old trek frame proyect but that bike is not longer with me and had v brakes, this rims are for 9-10 sp and have disc brakes
so, my question is (this seems like a good place instead of starting a thread) what kind of frame will you recommend for this proyect?
i already have the rims and im thinking on making it 9x3 and have a new suntour fork
will.appreciate the input y'all
02-28-20, 06:03 PM
#74
Banned.
Thread Starter
Just picked up a Dawes Haymaker 1200
keeping the 26er theme alive in my family (I have enough of them now that I will always be able to pillage parts together to keep one running at all times (this one has disc brakes)
I still love the 26er and ride them daily
keeping the 26er theme alive in my family (I have enough of them now that I will always be able to pillage parts together to keep one running at all times (this one has disc brakes)
I still love the 26er and ride them daily
03-05-20, 04:21 AM
#75
Senior Member
To be fair, I've wanted to replace it for some time, but when I look at the market I see no reason to do it. I just don't like what's available:
- I'd have to spend at least twice what my current bike cost to have a new bike with a similar weight.
- I just hate 1x. It lacks range compared to my triple, and the steps are huge. I just can't consider it.
- 2x is bearable, but still lacks range. I just don't get it.
- Most current bikes have crappy components compared to my bike, even if they cost twice what I paid 10 years ago.
- I've tried 29" and made zero difference on my ride times (not that I care), and felt like driving a bus.
- I hate modern ultrawide handlebars with a passion. Who designed that unergonomic crap? I know it's easy to cut them, but why do all modern bikes come with that POS? which also makes me wonder: why bar ends are out of fashion? they're ergonomic, give you multiple hand positions, wheight nothing and are really useful for XC... It seems to me that everything revolves around aesthetics now.
So here I am... as long as there are parts available and it doesn't break in half, I think I'm not going to replace it.
Likes For Amt0571:
