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Dry lube. Which one is recommended?

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Dry lube. Which one is recommended?

Old 12-03-18, 11:50 PM
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Mike.Ayling
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Dry lubes

Originally Posted by John_V
Squirt is my choice for dry lube, ProGold for wet lube.
+1 for Squirt

Mike
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Old 12-04-18, 10:18 AM
  #77  
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WD 40 is solvent- don't spray on freewheel

I destroyed 2 freewheels by spraying WD 40 on chain as it passed over freewheel. WD 40 worked it's way into freewheel and destroyed bearings grease. I have gone back to using 3in1 oil on chain.
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Old 12-04-18, 12:20 PM
  #78  
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There's a big discrepancy betweeen the manufacturer's recommendation to apply clean ride generously, every 50-75 miles and the application rate suggested by posts here. Even if you only used 1/2 ounce per application, an 8 ounce bottle wouldn't last long. What's shown on the video is probably closer to 1 ounce per application.


Last edited by DaveSSS; 12-04-18 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 12-04-18, 12:59 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
There's a big discrepancy betweeen the manufacturer's recommendation to apply celan ride generously, every 50-75 miles and the application rate suggested by posts here. Even if you only used 1/2 ounce per application, an 8 ounce bottle wouldn't last long. What's shown on the video is probably closer to 1 ounce per application.
Yes, the "suggested" application is every 50-75 miles. Through 20+ plus years of experience with the stuff, that interval is extremely conservative. If the chain squeaks, I apply fresh lubricant. If the chain gets wet, I certainly apply fresh lubricant. But I have found the chain squeaking or shifting poorly or even wearing excessively if I extend the application rate by about 10 fold. I certainly don't apply it every 2.5 days of commuting (20 mile round trip). It's just not needed. I generally go 6 to 8 weeks between applications and ride 4 to 6 times per week. That works out to be 500 to 700 miles between application.

On tour in 2015, I had cause to actually quantify my usage. I put a new chain on at the beginning. I got caught in rain on my 3rd day so I applied lubricant after the rain in Chatham, Ontario after 200 miles. I washed the bike in a car wash prior to staying in a hotel in Philadelphia and reapplied it there. That was 760 miles later. I got caught in rain around Clear Springs, MD and reapplied it after 297 miles. I then rode 262 miles to Pittsburgh and went home. I didn't apply it again before I got to Pittsburgh. I can't tell you exactly how many times I applied lubrication after that...I'm not the OCD about lubrication...but I do know that the chain I put on at the beginning of the tour was replaced after 3500 miles of riding due to wear and I didn't apply lubrication at any more frequent intervals than I did on tour.

As for the volume of application, the amount in the video doesn't approach a fluid ounce. A fluid ounce is 1/8th of a cup or 6 teaspoons or 2 tablespoons or 30 mL or a bit less than a shot glass holds (1.5 fluid oz or 45ml). That's a lot comparatively. When I apply it, I flood the chain and have some dripping off. I have a 2 oz bottle (HelMart used to sell them) in my bag that I use occasionally on the road. I don't half empty the bottle even with it dripping off the chain.

Finally, do you think that suggesting application after every 50 to 75 miles might just fall into the "wash, rinse, repeat" method of increasing sales?
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Old 12-04-18, 07:30 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
There's a big discrepancy betweeen the manufacturer's recommendation to apply clean ride generously, every 50-75 miles and the application rate suggested by posts here. Even if you only used 1/2 ounce per application, an 8 ounce bottle wouldn't last long. What's shown on the video is probably closer to 1 ounce per application.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=KfbFtgVrZ90

This is the first time I'm seeing this video. Last evening, to test the stuff, I simply applied a couple of drops to each pin, with the chain off the bike. Did a 30 mile gravel ride today, almost entirely dry trail. I didn't notice increased noise, although I might have noticed a rough shift or two. I imagine being more generous with the application would help. The chain stayed clean.

I can't imagine it would be too hard to make your own home brew. I think it's about 97% mineral spirits, with some paraffin that settles to the bottom. It needs a really good shake before you apply. Paraffin is cheap, and so is mineral spirits. I might experiment a bit.
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Old 12-04-18, 07:49 PM
  #81  
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Buy 2 and you are done

1. Finish Line Dry
2. Finish Line Wet

you will never go back to anything else

1. Use WD 40 on chain to clean. Wipe dry then use Finish Line on chain and again wipe dry with a cloth.

Easy

and remember the original formula WD 40 is a Water Disperment cleaner.
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Old 12-04-18, 08:25 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius
But this one is completely different. It's about dry chain lubes from hardware stores that are on a specific list. The fact that so many posters are posting their personal preference for chain lube outside of the criteria listed by the OP is irrelevant.

This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
Yeah indeed.

I ended up just buying WD40 Dry Lube.spray.
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Old 12-04-18, 11:41 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
How many 'which chain lube threads', in numbers, are we up to, here?

Try the search function on this site one time.. Maybe then you'll understand the redundant questions.
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Old 12-05-18, 11:11 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by PimpMan
Currently used Canola oil spray for $2 since i did not want to deal with any messy chemicals, however after taking a ride it splashed all over the rim where rear brake comes in contact and frame, messy after while.

Need a dry chain lube, don't want to order any specialized stuff just go to local hardware store and buy one.

Currently options are:
1. WD-40 Specialist - 10 oz. Dry Lube $7
2. Liquid Wrench - 11 oz. Chain and Cable Lube $5 (possibly not dry lube)
3. Blaster - 9.3 oz. Advanced Dry Lube with Teflon $4.50
4. Blaster - 5.5 oz. Industrial Graphite Dry Lubricant $4.30 (this one probably does not help much with friction)
5. 3-IN-ONE - 4-oz Dry Lube $4
Stick with a bicycle dry lube though some use a semi dry lube in lieu of a wet one. Dry is good in all conditions. Be sure to follow a cleaning and lubing guidelines online.

There may be a Youtube instructions as you search.
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Old 12-08-18, 07:32 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Yes, the "suggested" application is every 50-75 miles. Through 20+ plus years of experience with the stuff, that interval is extremely conservative. If the chain squeaks, I apply fresh lubricant. If the chain gets wet, I certainly apply fresh lubricant. But I have found the chain squeaking or shifting poorly or even wearing excessively if I extend the application rate by about 10 fold. I certainly don't apply it every 2.5 days of commuting (20 mile round trip). It's just not needed. I generally go 6 to 8 weeks between applications and ride 4 to 6 times per week. That works out to be 500 to 700 miles between application.

On tour in 2015, I had cause to actually quantify my usage. I put a new chain on at the beginning. I got caught in rain on my 3rd day so I applied lubricant after the rain in Chatham, Ontario after 200 miles. I washed the bike in a car wash prior to staying in a hotel in Philadelphia and reapplied it there. That was 760 miles later. I got caught in rain around Clear Springs, MD and reapplied it after 297 miles. I then rode 262 miles to Pittsburgh and went home. I didn't apply it again before I got to Pittsburgh. I can't tell you exactly how many times I applied lubrication after that...I'm not the OCD about lubrication...but I do know that the chain I put on at the beginning of the tour was replaced after 3500 miles of riding due to wear and I didn't apply lubrication at any more frequent intervals than I did on tour.

As for the volume of application, the amount in the video doesn't approach a fluid ounce. A fluid ounce is 1/8th of a cup or 6 teaspoons or 2 tablespoons or 30 mL or a bit less than a shot glass holds (1.5 fluid oz or 45ml). That's a lot comparatively. When I apply it, I flood the chain and have some dripping off. I have a 2 oz bottle (HelMart used to sell them) in my bag that I use occasionally on the road. I don't half empty the bottle even with it dripping off the chain.

Finally, do you think that suggesting application after every 50 to 75 miles might just fall into the "wash, rinse, repeat" method of increasing sales?
It seems internet reviews of Clean Ride are all over the place. One guy find he needs to apply it every 40 miles....max. I think the best way to find out the facts is simply to trial the stuff. That's what I'm doing. I did a second ride of 20 mi yesterday. After my last gravel ride of 30 mi, I just wiped the chain with a rag. Very little dirt was collected by the rag. Then I reapplied and went for the ride. The chain was quiet, and shifted smoothly. I rode through a little mud, but it was a 97% dry ride...nearly all of the mud puddles on the trail have dried. It'll rain again, and I'll for sure will be picking up a good deal of mud. I'm curious to see how the lube will perform.

I took a look at the published SDS and the document is incomplete. It only lists the solvent...heptane. No mention of any other ingredient.
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Old 12-08-18, 11:43 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
It seems internet reviews of Clean Ride are all over the place. One guy find he needs to apply it every 40 miles....max. I think the best way to find out the facts is simply to trial the stuff. That's what I'm doing. I did a second ride of 20 mi yesterday. After my last gravel ride of 30 mi, I just wiped the chain with a rag. Very little dirt was collected by the rag. Then I reapplied and went for the ride. The chain was quiet, and shifted smoothly. I rode through a little mud, but it was a 97% dry ride...nearly all of the mud puddles on the trail have dried. It'll rain again, and I'll for sure will be picking up a good deal of mud. I'm curious to see how the lube will perform
That’s close to what I’ve done over many years. I started out applying it often and found that I just didn’t have to use it as often as suggested.

I took a look at the published SDS and the document is incomplete. It only lists the solvent...heptane. No mention of any other ingredient.
SDS stands for Safety Data Sheet. The only items that have to be listed on the SDS are ingredients that present hazard to health or are flammable. The wax presents no hazard so it isn’t listed. White Lightning’s literature state that it is a wax. I’ve read something about White Lightning long ago that said the waxes are a mixture of hard wax like canning wax and soft wax like Vaseline. I can’t find the reference any more, however.
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Old 12-09-18, 12:10 PM
  #87  
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I'm still struggling with 'dry lube'

It's making me want to use stand oil, which is proper boiled linseed oil (instead of the chemical version). Once hardened, that would be a kinda dry lube.

WD40, they havea bit of a contradiction going on, don't they? ''Cleans and lubricates''... Well, what, does it clean? Or lubricate? Because it doesn't do both.
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Old 12-09-18, 12:23 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by MikeyMK
I'm still struggling with 'dry lube'

It's making me want to use stand oil, which is proper boiled linseed oil (instead of the chemical version). Once hardened, that would be a kinda dry lube.

WD40, they havea bit of a contradiction going on, don't they? ''Cleans and lubricates''... Well, what, does it clean? Or lubricate? Because it doesn't do both.
WD40 is the Pert Plus of the lube world. It does it all.
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Old 12-09-18, 01:11 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by jgwilliams
Came across this review which I found interesting. Smoove looks very impressive but a bit on the expensive side.
I collected different brands of chain oil for the longest time...until I came across what turns out to be numerous reviews for Smoove. I believe it is better known in Europe than in the States. It is unbelievably good...and can be purchased through their US distributor.
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Old 12-09-18, 01:11 PM
  #90  
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I prefer homemade chilli oil. Just take some oil and heat it up with star anise, Sichuan peppercorns and maybe some other dry spices. Basically not super hot but till you see bubbles form around a wooden chopstick and then remove any bits from the oil , then pour over some chili flakes (preferably Chinese or Korean), crushed garlic (be generous), a little bit of salt, some black vinegar (if you have some just a teaspoon) and some sesame oil that you have in a ceramic or glass bowl (something that can handle heat). Stir it up really well and let it cool and enjoy on everything. The beauty is you can customize it to your tastes so if you like a lot of garlic add more if you want a little citrus kick add some orange peel or you can add ginger or galangal. It is super tasty and way way better than buying the pre-jarred stuff at the supermarket (or Asian market) plus it looks really cool when you pour the oil in. I store mine in the fridge in a nice glass jar.
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Old 12-09-18, 06:46 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by MikeyMK
I'm still struggling with 'dry lube'

It's making me want to use stand oil, which is proper boiled linseed oil (instead of the chemical version). Once hardened, that would be a kinda dry lube.

WD40, they havea bit of a contradiction going on, don't they? ''Cleans and lubricates''... Well, what, does it clean? Or lubricate? Because it doesn't do both.
plenty of lubes do both, oils/waxes dissolved in solvents which flush out gunk and evaporate off to leave the lubricant. WD-40 is similar, just doesn't have much oil and not the best kind for chain lubrication
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Old 12-10-18, 12:16 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute


That’s close to what I’ve done over many years. I started out applying it often and found that I just didn’t have to use it as often as suggested.



I'm thinking about trying Squirt. It's water-based, so I don't have to apply outdoors. Additionally, it seems that some think it to last a little longer in wet conditions. One downside is that you need to apply it the night before, allowing time to dry,
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Old 12-10-18, 06:55 PM
  #93  
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$15 for a 4 ounce bottle of smoove or any other lube is ridiculous. If a generous stream of lube is applied as recommended, the bottle would only yield 8 applications at most. The cost of lube would be many times the cost of a chain.
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Old 12-10-18, 09:14 PM
  #94  
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Additional thought on wax lubes. Must be applied properly and allowed to dry. Dust and dirt or mud acquired on the outside of the chain is easily removed with a simple water rinse. Wax repels water and the dirt/mud flows right off.
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Old 12-11-18, 12:39 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
$15 for a 4 ounce bottle of smoove or any other lube is ridiculous. If a generous stream of lube is applied as recommended, the bottle would only yield 8 applications at most. The cost of lube would be many times the cost of a chain.

It's more like $8 to $10 and the amount applied isn't as much as you think nor that much more then any other lubricant. Name a chain lubricant and they all cost about the same on a per ounce basis and lasts about as long. You might be able to home brew for less but you also have to clean more. Cleaning up after a mess chain lubricant ain't free so you have to figure in that cost too.

My 4 oz bottle of White Lightning might...but probably doesn't...cost a bit more than other lubricants but not having to clean constantly is well worth the cost.
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Old 12-11-18, 09:23 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
$15 for a 4 ounce bottle of smoove or any other lube is ridiculous. If a generous stream of lube is applied as recommended, the bottle would only yield 8 applications at most. The cost of lube would be many times the cost of a chain.
15 is crazy.
A generous steam is never needed..
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Old 12-11-18, 10:16 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute


I’ve read something about White Lightning long ago that said the waxes are a mixture of hard wax like canning wax and soft wax like Vaseline. I can’t find the reference any more, however.
Well, applied it last night and went for a 30 mile gravel ride today in 36 degree weather, 99% dry. I had major shifting issues the last 15 miles. I thought I noticed some delayed shifts after my last application and ride, but today there was no doubting it....some major shifting issues. Now it could have just been a coincidence that these troubles began after I started using the White Lightning. Could be a cable or derailleur issue.

Question....could it be that the wax is too hard in cold weather? It wasn't really that cold. I rode the bike three weeks ago in the mid-twenties, and I had no shifting issues at all....with my Finish Line Wet.
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Old 12-12-18, 09:58 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
Well, applied it last night and went for a 30 mile gravel ride today in 36 degree weather, 99% dry. I had major shifting issues the last 15 miles. I thought I noticed some delayed shifts after my last application and ride, but today there was no doubting it....some major shifting issues. Now it could have just been a coincidence that these troubles began after I started using the White Lightning. Could be a cable or derailleur issue.

Question....could it be that the wax is too hard in cold weather? It wasn't really that cold. I rode the bike three weeks ago in the mid-twenties, and I had no shifting issues at all....with my Finish Line Wet.
I’ve ridden with the stuff down to 0°F without issues. Delayed shifts sounds like a cable issue rather than something with the chain. Check your cable tension.
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Old 12-12-18, 02:38 PM
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Wax..
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Old 12-15-18, 11:13 AM
  #100  
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WD 40

WD stands for water disperment
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