PimpMan

Currently used Canola oil spray for $2 since i did not want to deal with any messy chemicals, however after taking a ride it splashed all over the rim where rear brake comes in contact and frame, messy after while.

Need a dry chain lube, don't want to order any specialized stuff just go to local hardware store and buy one.

Currently options are:
1. WD-40 Specialist - 10 oz. Dry Lube $7
2. Liquid Wrench - 11 oz. Chain and Cable Lube $5 (possibly not dry lube)
3. Blaster - 9.3 oz. Advanced Dry Lube with Teflon $4.50
4. Blaster - 5.5 oz. Industrial Graphite Dry Lubricant $4.30 (this one probably does not help much with friction)
5. 3-IN-ONE - 4-oz Dry Lube $4

biketampa

what is your reasoning for not wanting to use a dry lube designed for bike use? do you have a local bike shop to purchase the lube from?

Phil_gretz

Why dry lube at all? It's winter in the northern hemisphere. Go wet, I say!

Lube early and often. Wipe down. There are many long-lasting wet lubes that are fabulous. Maybe even a thread or two in BikeForums as well.

jgwilliams

I'm not familiar with any of those but I would just comment that, in my experience, graphite lubes are very messy. It probably does help with the friction since graphite is a good specialist lubricant but if you own a pencil you will know that graphite is black.

Rather amused to see that WD-40 actually make a lubricant. They've obviously decided that since everyone has been using the original WD-40 as a lubricant for years they may as cater to the masses.

Elvo

Can't go wrong with finishline or white lightning

EdwinHeadwind

I personally don't care for any dry lube, but the last one I used was White Lightning, which worked about as well as any of them. Instead, my go-to has become good ol' wet Tri-Flow in the drip bottle. Cheap and effective.

bogydave

Doctor Morbius

#2 is definitely NOT a dry lube. I have some in the garage to lube cables.

#5 is a good clean dry lube. I used it quite a bit this past Summer. It definitely kept my chain and drivetrain clean. The only downside is it seems to wear away quickly so it must be applied frequently compared to other lubes. Apply 1 drop per roller once per week (unless you ride a lot of miles) and you should be fine. Let it sit overnight. Don't lube the chain and ride 20 minutes later as it will splatter over the rear wheel and the bike.

jadocs

Just a point about dry lube, it doesn't last very long. You'll know when you think there seem to be a lot of birds following you on your ride.

Clipped_in

I have tried a lot of lubes over the years and I have settled on this as my dry lube of choice.

Follow the application directions on the website and it keeps things clean, lubed, and quiet.
Application Instructions

PimpMan

I value your input question was which one of above listed ones is better for bike?

I live in Los Angeles its summer all year.

avole

Pendergast

Dupont Chain Saver is fairly popular as a bike chain dry lube. I think even Walmart may sell it. Pretty sure you can get it at Lowe's and probably Home Depot, too.

Doctor Morbius

Since you're in LA, I had better West Coast my reply up a little bit ...

Get #5 dewd!

Wattsup

1. Completely strip chain with mineral spirits. Allow to dry completely overnight.

2. Set chain in a medium-sized skillet. Brush on extra-virgin olive oil. Yes, olive oil.

3. Heat on low, 3 minutes, being sure not to allow oil to smoke. The goal here is to simply warm the chain and oil. Remove from heat.

4. Promptly sprinkle a *very* light coating of powdered sugar on your chain....less is better. Heat again on medium/high for 1 minute or until light brown sheen appears on chain. This is the caramelization phase.

5. Remove from heat, allow to cool, reinstall chain.

6. Enjoy an all-natural, food grade, "dry" lube that won't collect dirt and that is very water resistant!

2cam16

Sounds yummy. I think I'll serve that for Christmas dinner.

Doctor Morbius

Add a touch of cinnamon and heat it over the stove for a wonderful holiday fragrance.

2cam16

biketampa

biketampa

Kedosto

KraneXL

+1. It works as advertised. I just wish they had a better (less wasteful) applicator.

jgwilliams

Came across this review which I found interesting. Smoove looks very impressive but a bit on the expensive side.

canklecat

Wax. A box of Gulf wax is cheap and will last forever. And wax is pretty darned near perfect for dry but dusty conditions, like SoCal and here in Texas. No worries about greasy hands, pets, pants cuffs or furniture. My bikes are in my apartment with three cats so that's important. Any residue is like pencil/graphite dust -- it wipes off with a napkin, no oily residue.

There are plenty of wax/paraffin threads already on the forums. Check 'em out.

Summary: I already had a Little Dipper crock pot that came with my big crock pot. Sat unused in a cabinet for years. I finally bought a box of Gulf wax when the neighborhood hardware store went out of business -- cost about $5.

• Melt two or three of the five bars of paraffin. Crock pot is safest -- almost no risk of ignition or overheating. No need for a double boiler.
• Degrease the chain as best you can without going crazy -- please don't use gasoline. But if you do, be sure it's outdoors, away from ignition sources, there's a friend nearby with a fire blanket and extinguisher and 911 on speed dial. But I just use mineral spirits followed by isopropyl alcohol, each in separate heavy duty plastic containers. I just shake 'em up like bad babies. Let the chain dry.
• Carefully dip the chain in the crock pot of wax. To make it easier to retrieve, make some loops from bent heavy duty paper clips in the ends of the chain.
• I let it soak for hours or overnight in the hot wax to be sure it penetrates and replaces any residual oil.
• Fish it out carefully. Let drip dry. Or not. Dr Isotope puts 'em back on the bike hot. I usually do two or three chains at a time so I wait for 'em to cool. One goes on the bike, the others into labeled ziplock baggies. I date 'em and rotate 'em about once a month or every 400-500 miles.
• Don't worry about the chain feeling a bit stiff. Just ride. Any excess wax flakes off on the first ride and the chain links loosen up pronto.
• Oh, and I use KMC Missing Links of appropriate size, regardless of chain brand.

It's a lot less trouble than it sounds. Once set up and in the groove it's much quicker and easier than messing with any sort of dribble on or spray on lubes.

Some folks are bothered by a little chain noise after about 100-200 miles on a waxed chain. If so you can dribble on some Boeshield T-9, which reportedly is mostly paraffin in solvent. I've tried that and it seems compatible with the dry paraffin. Boeshield T-9 attracts *less* road gunk than most wet lubes, but it still attracts more road grime than dry paraffin/wax. It wipes off better than most wet lubes. I use it only if the noise really bugs me and I don't have time to swap to a new freshly waxed chain. Mostly I use the T-9 for lubing other stuff -- cables, pivot joints on derailleurs, etc. It's handy stuff and spreads quickly and evenly, I just don't care for messing with any dribble-on/spray-on chain lubes anymore.

Doug5150

OP: the typical advice is to run wet lubes during wet weather and dry lubes only during dry weather.

Graphite is a lube but it can cause galvanic corrosion if salt water is present at all.
Moly-sulfide is probably a better choice for steel parts (it forms a film on steel, but not aluminum) but even so, it's still not a great choice for the chain.

Lastly it should be pointed out--there have been many tests of bicycle chain lube, and most of them found extremely small differences between the 'best' lube, and no lube at all. A chain is rather noisy when un-lubed, but the difference in friction is still very small.
The purpose of bicycle chain lube is not lubrication, it is to prevent the chain pins from rusting and falling out.
The chain pins are a rather high-carbon steel, and they corrode very easily. And they must fit into the chain side plates very tight, or else they will tend to work out.
So this is the reason for "wet lube during wet weather". The wet oil is necessary to prevent water corrosion.

The best method is to re-lube every week or so that the chain is wet often, since all liquid oils will absorb moisture and decompose.
It isn't necessary to clean off all the old lube completely, just dump some more on. The old lube solidifies and works out anyway.

(picture somewhat related)


"DOING AWAY WITH ALL FRICTION" -- now you know