kevmk81

I've read somewhere that the factory grease on a chain should be on as long as possible (supposedly it's the best grease you can have on it). I've put near 800 to 900 miles on my bike (trek 1500) and am wondering if it's time to clean the chain (taking off the factory grease), and put some wet lube on the chain, along with cleaning the cogs and chainrings. By the way, I haven't rode in any wet weather if that makes a difference. No squeeky noises or gear issues, yet. Thanks in advance for the advice!

BikeToWork

This "factory grease on a chain should be on as long as possible" sounds like a possible wives' tale. My rule of thumb is to lube the chain every time after it gets wet. Are you having a drought in Wisconsin lately? If factory grease were really the best chain lube, why don't people just use grease on their chains rather than liquid chain lubes? Grease wouldn't work because it doesn't get into the pins and rollers where it is needed but would just stay on the plates attracting road detritus.

neil0502

Two choices:

1) search the forum

2) see if people are still interested in talking about "factory chain lube" or "cosmoline" or "chain lube" or "cleaning," "lubrication," "drivetrain maintenance," etc. for the umpteenth time.

I think you'll get fuller info by doing #1.

Best of luck!

HillRider

It will if it's applied hot and under pressure which is how the factory lube is applied.

Now, I recommend we take neil0502's advice and let's end this thread right here.

kevmk81

I just wasn't sure what words to search for, that post helped me out. I'm going to clean the sides of the chain, try to get the chunks off, put some lube on the chain, and see how it goes. No more help needed, thanks everybody!

PM7771

You wanna read @ www.sheldonbrown.com his write-up(s) - Sheldon is very respected in cycling and as close to the final word as I'm aware.

As for 800-900 miles I think its clearly time though to be cleaning your chain thoroughly and using a good drylube, in your case. And as I've found, learn about "chain stretch" and catch this wear before you damage your gears & sprockets. I've just caught mine just in time.

good luck

operator

Rock n roll lube. Seriously.

europa

Clean and lube as you will - some will agree with your method, some will violently disagree. Over many years of riding your unique bike in your unique set of circumstances coupled with your unique approach to maintenance, you will develop a system that works for you. What's the worst than can happen? You'll wear out easily replaced items that are going to wear out anyway.

Richard

fmw

The factory "grease" isn't grease. It is a rust inhibitor and should be removed and replaced with a proper lubricant before you ride the bike for the first time.

HillRider

Wrong. Yes it's a "grease" and rust inhibitor but it's also a very effective lube. The outer coating can be wiped off and a lighter lube used but the internal factory lube should never be removed by solvent soaking.

Portis

A smooth operator wherever the trail or path takes you. SRAM® Power Chain™ delivers the performance you need on a city bike path or out in the middle of nowhere. The convenient PowerLink™ makes it easy to join links together. No tools needed. Insert, press, lock - it's just that easy! A coating of GLEITMO™, the finest chain lubricant in the industry, provides superior combination of friction protection and dirt fighters.

redirekib

If you want to wear out drivetrain components, leave that sticky factory applied preserative cosmoline stuff on as long as you wish, me, I clean it off before the first ride.

fmw

Now, Tiger, calm down. I'm not wrong. The OP didn't even say what kind of chain he had. Most chains (Shimano as an example) have a rust inhibitor that is not a lubricant. Even the manufacturer's instructions recommend removing it and lubricating the chain. Your post would be better served by disagreeing with an opinion rather than saying "wrong." As you mature in life you will chill out a little. You'll appreciate it and so will those around you.

fmw

There you go. Let's make marketing gibberish a bike maintenance recommendation.

neil0502

What I took from that is that SRAM uses Gleitmo, not Cosmoline, in the manufacture and shipping of its chains.

I didn't know that, so I'm grateful for the info.

redirekib

There seem to be many Glietmo products but note the use of the word tacky in the description of this one.

gleitmo 582; 582 Spray
White Chain Lubricant

White, adhesive, semi-synthetic grease with gleitmo White Solid Lubricants, which is liquified with a solvent for easy penetration into the cavities of the chain. After evaporation of the solvent a tacky, adhesive grease film is formed, which is resistant to acids and lyes, protects against corrosion and can neither be thrown off nor washed away by water.
APPLICATION AREAS:
Slow speed, high speed and power transmitting chains of all types at temperatures from -15 ºC to +120 ºC, also where resistance to water and steam, acids and lyes is required.
- White adhesive chain grease for highest requirements
-Temperature range :
-15/+120 ºC

HardyWeinberg

Are you more confused yet than when you started?

I've gone as far as 500 miles (that's a pretty long dry patch around here) before lubing a new SRAM chain, never had a problem leaving it as it came. I've tried lots of different kinds of lubes, not yet found one that lets the chain stay as clean (in my environment) as whatever is on the SRAM chain out of the box, no matter how careful I am to remove excess.

San Rensho 

How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?

redirekib

Waltz or jitterbug?

TimJ

Battle of the petroleum distillates!

redirekib

Don't forget body fluids, urine makes an excellent emergency lubricant.

bkaapcke

Get rid of the 'factory grease' as soon as you can. It's made to preserve the chain while it is in storage. Just run your fingers over the rollers before you clean it up. After clean and lube, run your fingers over it again. You will notice that they roll much smoother once the factory crap is off. Smooth rollers is what you want. It's also a good way to tell when it is time for another clean & lube. Check your rollers. bk

TimJ

Just my 2 cents: You will harm nothing if you leave the factory grease on (taking care to wipe off the excess, of course). You will harm nothing if you take it off and lube with something else. Either way your bike will roll forward when you pedal it. The grease is a petroleum distillate. It's not made of acid or rabid raccoons.

Personally I leave the grease on. I had two bikes with two sram chains and on one I took the grease off and lubed with other stuff and the other I just wiped the excess grease off and left it like that. I did this because I was confused as well. The chain I left the grease on stayed cleaner for longer and attracted less dirt and particulate than the chain I took the grease off of. It was noticably quieter too.

neil0502

Sorry to those who say "remove," but ... we already know that some mfgrs use Cosmoline which IS a (rust-preventive AND) lubricant, and that SRAM uses the Gleitmo which IS a (rust-preventive AND) lubricant, so ... I'm still looking for a valid rationale for removing either.

Does another chain manufacturer use another product that should be removed ... for a legitimate reason??

HillRider

Sorry Miss Manners, I guess I was a bit abrupt. However, I don't recall seeing Shimano or any other chain maker's recommend that the factory lube be removed. Please cite a reference where this recommendation was published.

Yes, it's a rust inhibitor but it's also a very effective lube. Please see Sheldon Brown's article on this subject for corroboration.

As to maturing in life, can I use my Social Security check to pay for some maturity lessons?