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un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?

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un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?

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Old 05-26-13, 06:24 AM
  #1  
Distinguished
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un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?

As the title implies, I took a hex wrench to the centering screw of an Ultegra 6600 brake caliper, went a bit too tight on the adjustment, and %$#@, the hex ridges turned into a circle.

Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?

Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
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Old 05-26-13, 06:39 AM
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1. Try to find a small Torx driver that's a snug fit in the hex (or former hex) recess. Sometimes these will bite when a hex key won't
2. Once you get the bolt out, take it to a hardware store that sells metric bolts and find a match. I assume it's a relatively short M3 or M4 bolt.
3. Your hex keys aren't too hard but may be too worn. Hex keys in general and small ones in particular get worn, lose their sharp edges and do just what you experienced. They are not a lifetime purchase and should be replace periodically.

4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
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Old 05-26-13, 07:58 AM
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Besides Hillrider's removal ideas, you might be able to saw or Dremel a slot in the screw to remove it, or epoxy a sacrificial driver into the rounded-out slot. A slightly larger fractional-sized driver may also be forced into the recess.

Worn hex keys are common and while cheap to replace, you can often get a little more life out of them by grinding the worn end off flat to expose new, sharper driving edges.
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Old 05-26-13, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
+1; I just set the screw so the brake looks best and then leave it alone. The mounting bolts don't need to be so tight you can't easily centre the brake by hand. Ditch the paint-ruining star washers.
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Old 03-28-23, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
You’re talking about dual pivot calipers that have a single mounting bolt. You need the centering adjustment on dual pivot mount calipers. You can’t just simply turn them as they have 2 mounting bolts!
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Old 03-28-23, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by noahthomas77
You’re talking about dual pivot calipers that have a single mounting bolt. You need the centering adjustment on dual pivot mount calipers. You can’t just simply turn them as they have 2 mounting bolts!
Are you talking about brakes that mount on fork/stay canti brake bosses?

Otherwise, I've never seen a 2 bolt caliper brake, and even fewer 2 hole forks.
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Old 03-28-23, 10:00 PM
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Assuming you haven't moved the bolt so far as to totally unbalance the brake, just a t leave bad enough alone. Follow the advice above, mount the brake, rotate it to center, tighten and ride.

For future reference, many of these small positioning screws are best adjusted with the load off. That makes them easier to turn and will prevent damaging them.
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Old 03-28-23, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Distinguished
As the title implies, I took a hex wrench to the centering screw of an Ultegra 6600 brake caliper, went a bit too tight on the adjustment, and %$#@, the hex ridges turned into a circle.

Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?

Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Derailleur Stop Screws are the same thread rate/diameter.. the Stop Screws found on some MTB Brake levers may also be Compatible... they are hex socket head... the Der. screws are "Phillips", or JIS actually.

Find an old Front der. in the parts box and you have your screws, although a bit too long.... Standard M4 thread,for the record... Ace Hardware has them too... and they will have some new Allen wrenches... i grind mine a fresh nose every now and then.. usually the 5mm is the first ti get too short..

add a dab of blue locktite to the screw or it'll back off...

Last edited by maddog34; 03-28-23 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 03-29-23, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
I second this. My SRAM Force calipers have centering screws which I found didn't stay adjusted, so now I've loosened them off and center the brakes the old-fashioned way.
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Old 03-29-23, 06:34 AM
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btw
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Old 03-29-23, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by noahthomas77
You’re talking about dual pivot calipers that have a single mounting bolt. You need the centering adjustment on dual pivot mount calipers. You can’t just simply turn them as they have 2 mounting bolts!
Ten years ago, when this thread was started, there were no direct mount calipers and single mounting bolts were universal. You woke up the Zombie.
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Old 03-29-23, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Otherwise, I've never seen a 2 bolt caliper brake, and even fewer 2 hole forks.
They exist. They're called "direct mount."
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Old 03-29-23, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
They exist. They're called "direct mount."
Thanks for that. By now I should have learned not to be surprised by the industries efforts to make the simple and interchangeable less so on either front.
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Old 03-29-23, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Thanks for that. By now I should have learned not to be surprised by the industries efforts to make the simple and interchangeable less so on either front.
They couldn't have been around too long before being supplanted by disk brakes...
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Old 03-29-23, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
They couldn't have been around too long before being supplanted by disk brakes...
I'm fairly retro, though I try not to be grouchy about it. FWIW, my "new" bike, built in 2002 is a Ti frame, with aluminum components and single pivot brakes.

For better or worse, I should be in the market for a replacement sometime in my remaining years, or at least I hope so. So I expect to be moving into the carbon age, but I'm not sure I'm ready to.
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Old 03-31-23, 08:56 AM
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Yeah, those adjusting screws are just a gimmick. I even take the screws outta the derailleurs and set the max with the cables and just feel for the other end of the motion. NBD. Never have to worry about those screws coming out of adjustment.
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Old 03-31-23, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Steel Charlie
I even take the screws outta the derailleurs and set the max with the cables and just feel for the other end of the motion.
You remove derailleur limit screws?
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