Help ID this Peugeot and also how do you spell Peugeot?
09-23-21, 06:48 PM
#1
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Help ID this Peugeot and also how do you spell Peugeot?
Sorry this isn't' the greatest picture but I was just wondering if someone could help id this bike. I got it from someone who got it from a dumpster. I fixed it up for my wife, and it was my first real restoration. Learned a lot about bikes doing it, so it has a special place in my heart. Deep down, I know it's just an entry level (carbolite 103), but I like it alright. She likes it too.
Anyway I'm just curious what it is. Why did they feel it was appropriate to have bikes without the model name on it somewhere?
Part of the reason I'm asking is I'd like to swap out some parts with parts that fit better. I put suntour dt shifters on it (it came with some janky stem shifters) and I had to shim the clamp with a red bull can. Same for the front derailleur. It came with one that was clearly designed for a narrower chain. I replaced it but it's not quite right, as evidenced by another red bull can shim, and the fact that I had to add a floating piece of cable housing and a clamp because, unlike the original, the replacement is the kind that requires it. In fact, that's the one aggravating part of this build -- There's like .5mm clearance between the FD and the pedal, which means it's really, really easy to accidentally put it in the wrong place and end up with some noise.
Anyway I'm just curious what it is. Why did they feel it was appropriate to have bikes without the model name on it somewhere?
Part of the reason I'm asking is I'd like to swap out some parts with parts that fit better. I put suntour dt shifters on it (it came with some janky stem shifters) and I had to shim the clamp with a red bull can. Same for the front derailleur. It came with one that was clearly designed for a narrower chain. I replaced it but it's not quite right, as evidenced by another red bull can shim, and the fact that I had to add a floating piece of cable housing and a clamp because, unlike the original, the replacement is the kind that requires it. In fact, that's the one aggravating part of this build -- There's like .5mm clearance between the FD and the pedal, which means it's really, really easy to accidentally put it in the wrong place and end up with some noise.
09-23-21, 06:54 PM
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My Peugeot had the model number (PH-11) on the bottom bracket shell.
09-23-21, 07:50 PM
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Could be something P8/PH8, or same with 9, or 10 maybe. Likely around 1980/81-ish. If there's not chainstay sticker, given the number of swapped parts, is a bit more difficult to tell for sure.
Can you please tell us what numbers/letters exist under the bottom bracket shell? We can deduce the year that way and potentially go by paint color and decal color to figure out which lower-end frame it is.
Can you please tell us what numbers/letters exist under the bottom bracket shell? We can deduce the year that way and potentially go by paint color and decal color to figure out which lower-end frame it is.
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09-23-21, 08:35 PM
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Could be something P8/PH8, or same with 9, or 10 maybe. Likely around 1980/81-ish. If there's not chainstay sticker, given the number of swapped parts, is a bit more difficult to tell for sure.
Can you please tell us what numbers/letters exist under the bottom bracket shell? We can deduce the year that way and potentially go by paint color and decal color to figure out which lower-end frame it is.
Can you please tell us what numbers/letters exist under the bottom bracket shell? We can deduce the year that way and potentially go by paint color and decal color to figure out which lower-end frame it is.
09-23-21, 08:54 PM
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Well there you go. It’s a PH10S.
Probably ‘82: https://bikeboompeugeot.com/Brochures...PH10s_PH19.jpg
Probably ‘82: https://bikeboompeugeot.com/Brochures...PH10s_PH19.jpg
09-23-21, 09:14 PM
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Man I was so close to getting what I really needed. Thank you for the catalogue photo. I was able to see that it would have had a simplex sx a 22 derailleur on front. But i can't find one on sale anywhere. Except a NOS one that someone wants 239 smackaroos for.
Any recommendations on a replacement for that specific derailleur?
By the way, if anyone's looking to restore something like this with original parts I have the original rear wheel with the French threaded hub and atom 6-speed cassette on it.
Any recommendations on a replacement for that specific derailleur?
By the way, if anyone's looking to restore something like this with original parts I have the original rear wheel with the French threaded hub and atom 6-speed cassette on it.
09-23-21, 09:56 PM
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Man I was so close to getting what I really needed. Thank you for the catalogue photo. I was able to see that it would have had a simplex sx a 22 derailleur on front. But i can't find one on sale anywhere. Except a NOS one that someone wants 239 smackaroos for.
Any recommendations on a replacement for that specific derailleur?
.
Any recommendations on a replacement for that specific derailleur?
.
Honestly, it’s hard to do better than the Shimano “light action” groups containing mechs like L541, L525, etc. for a stem shift group, this would be a perfect front, rear with stem shift. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-light-action-road-bike-group-w-friction-stem-shifter-front-and-rear-de-/165084933712
I keep eyes out for people selling these budget mini “light action” Shimano groups for $40 or less and snatch up front/rear/lever combos because they make ideal drivetrain swaps for these older French bikes. They’re light, accurate, accept cheap chains and still shift smooth… you just can’t lose. Supports index shifting, barcons, and they don’t weight a ton. Some earlier iterations supposedly had a fail point on the rear but I’ve never had it happen.
09-23-21, 10:05 PM
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Ps, if you want info or numbers check this page
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...6_scan_25.html
Skip forward a page for the front mech model numbers. There are several versions of fronts and rears and virtually all compatible when installed together.
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...6_scan_25.html
Skip forward a page for the front mech model numbers. There are several versions of fronts and rears and virtually all compatible when installed together.
09-23-21, 10:10 PM
#9
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No point going all original. I have a couple NOS but saving because they’re unobtabium and who knows when I may need. Sure as hell wouldn’t charge THAT much!! That’s 4x-5x overpriced IMO.
Honestly, it’s hard to do better than the Shimano “light action” groups containing mechs like L541, L525, etc. for a stem shift group, this would be a perfect front, rear with stem shift. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-light-action-road-bike-group-w-friction-stem-shifter-front-and-rear-de-/165084933712
I keep eyes out for people selling these budget mini “light action” Shimano groups for $40 or less and snatch up front/rear/lever combos because they make ideal drivetrain swaps for these older French bikes. They’re light, accurate, accept cheap chains and still shift smooth… you just can’t lose. Supports index shifting, barcons, and they don’t weight a ton. Some earlier iterations supposedly had a fail point on the rear but I’ve never had it happen.
Honestly, it’s hard to do better than the Shimano “light action” groups containing mechs like L541, L525, etc. for a stem shift group, this would be a perfect front, rear with stem shift. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-light-action-road-bike-group-w-friction-stem-shifter-front-and-rear-de-/165084933712
I keep eyes out for people selling these budget mini “light action” Shimano groups for $40 or less and snatch up front/rear/lever combos because they make ideal drivetrain swaps for these older French bikes. They’re light, accurate, accept cheap chains and still shift smooth… you just can’t lose. Supports index shifting, barcons, and they don’t weight a ton. Some earlier iterations supposedly had a fail point on the rear but I’ve never had it happen.
If you ever decide to part with one of your originals pm me. I'd happily pay you for it.
*Edit: looks like someone already grabbed that one anyway. I was going to buy it just in case save it's already gone. Ha.
Last edited by cyrano138; 09-23-21 at 10:16 PM.
09-24-21, 10:17 AM
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cyrano138 I did a cursory dig through my Simplex parts bin.
So, I see I have a used SX A22 front mech. The steel part of the seat tube clamp is bent, but an easy fix. Unfortunately, the black plastic parts (Delrin) are prone to cracking, which is likely why yours is no longer with your bike. Mine appears uncracked and fully intact, but no idea how long it would stay that way once used. There are signs of inner cage wear, I only kept it for parts.
Two of the four NOS units I have are the higher-end front all-alloy SJ A102, which are 2nd from the top of the heap, a brand- and era-appropriate upgrade, and one step below the infamous LJ and Super LJ units, latter actually does normally sell at pricing you mentioned. My other two NOS units are both front Prestige mechs, which are a couple of years too old for your bike.
I also have a NOS set of the "sun" shifters found on your era of bike, with clamp, last pic below. I have one NOS cable (may have another, would need to dig).
I'm posting some pics of what's in my hand right now. Sorry, I got my NOS backwards, but I shot you a PM either way.
I will say, the SX 610 that would've come with your bike stock is a great mech, although the Delrin plastic pulley/jockey wheels tended to snap teeth. The SX 410, 610, and 810 were all great, depending on your needs.
So, I see I have a used SX A22 front mech. The steel part of the seat tube clamp is bent, but an easy fix. Unfortunately, the black plastic parts (Delrin) are prone to cracking, which is likely why yours is no longer with your bike. Mine appears uncracked and fully intact, but no idea how long it would stay that way once used. There are signs of inner cage wear, I only kept it for parts.
Two of the four NOS units I have are the higher-end front all-alloy SJ A102, which are 2nd from the top of the heap, a brand- and era-appropriate upgrade, and one step below the infamous LJ and Super LJ units, latter actually does normally sell at pricing you mentioned. My other two NOS units are both front Prestige mechs, which are a couple of years too old for your bike.
I also have a NOS set of the "sun" shifters found on your era of bike, with clamp, last pic below. I have one NOS cable (may have another, would need to dig).
I'm posting some pics of what's in my hand right now. Sorry, I got my NOS backwards, but I shot you a PM either way.
I will say, the SX 610 that would've come with your bike stock is a great mech, although the Delrin plastic pulley/jockey wheels tended to snap teeth. The SX 410, 610, and 810 were all great, depending on your needs.
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Last edited by francophile; 09-24-21 at 10:24 AM.
09-24-21, 12:53 PM
#11
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cyrano138 I did a cursory dig through my Simplex parts bin.
So, I see I have a used SX A22 front mech. The steel part of the seat tube clamp is bent, but an easy fix. Unfortunately, the black plastic parts (Delrin) are prone to cracking, which is likely why yours is no longer with your bike. Mine appears uncracked and fully intact, but no idea how long it would stay that way once used. There are signs of inner cage wear, I only kept it for parts.
Two of the four NOS units I have are the higher-end front all-alloy SJ A102, which are 2nd from the top of the heap, a brand- and era-appropriate upgrade, and one step below the infamous LJ and Super LJ units, latter actually does normally sell at pricing you mentioned. My other two NOS units are both front Prestige mechs, which are a couple of years too old for your bike.
I also have a NOS set of the "sun" shifters found on your era of bike, with clamp, last pic below. I have one NOS cable (may have another, would need to dig).
I'm posting some pics of what's in my hand right now. Sorry, I got my NOS backwards, but I shot you a PM either way.
I will say, the SX 610 that would've come with your bike stock is a great mech, although the Delrin plastic pulley/jockey wheels tended to snap teeth. The SX 410, 610, and 810 were all great, depending on your needs.
So, I see I have a used SX A22 front mech. The steel part of the seat tube clamp is bent, but an easy fix. Unfortunately, the black plastic parts (Delrin) are prone to cracking, which is likely why yours is no longer with your bike. Mine appears uncracked and fully intact, but no idea how long it would stay that way once used. There are signs of inner cage wear, I only kept it for parts.
Two of the four NOS units I have are the higher-end front all-alloy SJ A102, which are 2nd from the top of the heap, a brand- and era-appropriate upgrade, and one step below the infamous LJ and Super LJ units, latter actually does normally sell at pricing you mentioned. My other two NOS units are both front Prestige mechs, which are a couple of years too old for your bike.
I also have a NOS set of the "sun" shifters found on your era of bike, with clamp, last pic below. I have one NOS cable (may have another, would need to dig).
I'm posting some pics of what's in my hand right now. Sorry, I got my NOS backwards, but I shot you a PM either way.
I will say, the SX 610 that would've come with your bike stock is a great mech, although the Delrin plastic pulley/jockey wheels tended to snap teeth. The SX 410, 610, and 810 were all great, depending on your needs.
This is what I want to get rid of
09-25-21, 08:34 PM
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cyrano138 sorry for my late reply, the past 36 hours has been a real doozy.
Either I'm being totally hair-brained, or I can't understand why in the hell someone cabled your bike like that.
The plastic cable guide in your picture with the model # and serial # sticker has an empty extra slot for your cable to pass under the BB, then back up between the tire and seat tube up to your mech.
Now, maybe if cable mounting point for your front mech was hanging for off to the non-drive side of the bike it makes sense to use a the cable stop clamp with a piece of housing, but ... I can't tell if it's really the case here, would need a pic
One thing I can assure you of, though. If you remove that cable stop clamp on the downtube, then re-route the cable using the under-BB guide, the currently installed cable will be too short to reach. You'd need to install a new cable, tighten properly, and secure it.
Can you post a good picture of how/where the cable attachment point is located? Is it on-center with the seat tube? If it's off-center, is it more towards the chainrings, or the non-drive side crank arm, and by how much?
If the mounting point is anywhere within the footprint of the width of the downtube, you should be able to use the stock under-BB guide unless my hangover is impeding my ability to think critically right now.
Either I'm being totally hair-brained, or I can't understand why in the hell someone cabled your bike like that.
The plastic cable guide in your picture with the model # and serial # sticker has an empty extra slot for your cable to pass under the BB, then back up between the tire and seat tube up to your mech.
Now, maybe if cable mounting point for your front mech was hanging for off to the non-drive side of the bike it makes sense to use a the cable stop clamp with a piece of housing, but ... I can't tell if it's really the case here, would need a pic
One thing I can assure you of, though. If you remove that cable stop clamp on the downtube, then re-route the cable using the under-BB guide, the currently installed cable will be too short to reach. You'd need to install a new cable, tighten properly, and secure it.
Can you post a good picture of how/where the cable attachment point is located? Is it on-center with the seat tube? If it's off-center, is it more towards the chainrings, or the non-drive side crank arm, and by how much?
If the mounting point is anywhere within the footprint of the width of the downtube, you should be able to use the stock under-BB guide unless my hangover is impeding my ability to think critically right now.
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09-25-21, 08:40 PM
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Here's what I'm talking about - that under-BB cable guide is basically there for exactly this purpose. They stopped doing the cable stop clamp setup with short housing carryover somewhere in the mid-late 70s on most bikes.
Red line is the empty channel closer to center, where the front mech usually routes across, then up to its arm attachment.
Blue line is currently populated for rear cable, normally closer to the drive side of the bike, and routes to the drive-side chainstay stop for the rear mech.
Red line is the empty channel closer to center, where the front mech usually routes across, then up to its arm attachment.
Blue line is currently populated for rear cable, normally closer to the drive side of the bike, and routes to the drive-side chainstay stop for the rear mech.
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09-25-21, 09:41 PM
#14
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cyrano138 sorry for my late reply, the past 36 hours has been a real doozy.
Either I'm being totally hair-brained, or I can't understand why in the hell someone cabled your bike like that.
The plastic cable guide in your picture with the model # and serial # sticker has an empty extra slot for your cable to pass under the BB, then back up between the tire and seat tube up to your mech.
Now, maybe if cable mounting point for your front mech was hanging for off to the non-drive side of the bike it makes sense to use a the cable stop clamp with a piece of housing, but ... I can't tell if it's really the case here, would need a pic
One thing I can assure you of, though. If you remove that cable stop clamp on the downtube, then re-route the cable using the under-BB guide, the currently installed cable will be too short to reach. You'd need to install a new cable, tighten properly, and secure it.
Can you post a good picture of how/where the cable attachment point is located? Is it on-center with the seat tube? If it's off-center, is it more towards the chainrings, or the non-drive side crank arm, and by how much?
If the mounting point is anywhere within the footprint of the width of the downtube, you should be able to use the stock under-BB guide unless my hangover is impeding my ability to think critically right now.
Either I'm being totally hair-brained, or I can't understand why in the hell someone cabled your bike like that.
The plastic cable guide in your picture with the model # and serial # sticker has an empty extra slot for your cable to pass under the BB, then back up between the tire and seat tube up to your mech.
Now, maybe if cable mounting point for your front mech was hanging for off to the non-drive side of the bike it makes sense to use a the cable stop clamp with a piece of housing, but ... I can't tell if it's really the case here, would need a pic
One thing I can assure you of, though. If you remove that cable stop clamp on the downtube, then re-route the cable using the under-BB guide, the currently installed cable will be too short to reach. You'd need to install a new cable, tighten properly, and secure it.
Can you post a good picture of how/where the cable attachment point is located? Is it on-center with the seat tube? If it's off-center, is it more towards the chainrings, or the non-drive side crank arm, and by how much?
If the mounting point is anywhere within the footprint of the width of the downtube, you should be able to use the stock under-BB guide unless my hangover is impeding my ability to think critically right now.
Haha, no, I routed the cable there. The front derailleur that was on the bike when I got it was made for a narrower chain and it was rubbing no matter what I did. It was a much newer derailleur. Anyway I bought a replacement derailleur and I didn't know the difference at the time, but the one I got required that floating piece of cable housing. That's why I was trying to see if you had a derailleur that would be appropriate that didn't require the cable stop to pull against.
