jamesdak 

This one showed up on the local classifieds. Totally impractical and I'm betting it's too big but for the price I just couldn't pass it up. I have no idea what I am going to do with this one. It may be my only true wall hanger....

This is definitely the larger of the two frame sizes they made but I don't have a clue how to even sort this one out yet. I'm pretty sure it's too big. The seat tube appears to be around a 58CM and the top tube is even longer. Yet the crazy angles seem to make it so the higher you bring the bars the shorter the effective top tube length is.....I think.

I did get the required 24" wheel/tire for the front. It's a nice Shimano 600 hub with a Sun Mistral rim laced to it. A quick google search shows not too many options for tires although the one on it seems fine.

The paint has quite a few small marks. They just seem to be more from handling and such then what you expect from riding.

One odd thing that I'm putting down to my probably understanding things wrong. The headbadge has an earlier date than the frame. I think it should be the opposite.

The bolt for the stem seems stuck but I really haven't made an honest try at it yet. This was a total impulse buy.

And now the pics.

jamesdak 

And more:

jamesdak 

And a few more:














So, far from perfect. But a nice, odd, crazy frame from what I think was Schwinn's golden age. Now, what do I do with it, LOL!

Steve Whitlatch 

That looks so cool. I just picked up a Prologue. The paint looks so good on these frames. Beautiful craftsmanship. Until now I only seen them in pictures. I can`t wait to put mine to the test!! I hope the sun returns soon.

jamesdak 

Well, I have one of those too and it's a fast ride. I bet you'll love your's once you get it out.

jamesdak 

So I was curious about this and if it will fit. So I mounted some tires and then dialed in the saddle. With the current seatpost the height is no problem but the setback was sort by about 1/2 inch. With this crazy setup that probably won't matter and in fact I may need to go farther forward with the saddle. Then I took measurements for what would be my normal bar position. The stem on the bike right now it too long and man is that a serious drop. But by pure luck, the crazy riser stem that came on my 1987 Prologue appears to be just the size I need on this one. It might actually fit me by the standards I normally use. Then again, on this type bike I would expect I should be riding a more compact (tucked) position so maybe it'll still be too long. I think it's going to be fun to play around with this one for awhile. Maybe the aero setup from the other prologue will work on this with the right kind of bars.

Mock up shot with the tires on. There's more room in the back then there appears. The adjustment screws are still fulling in the rear dropouts pushing the tire towards the seat tube.



This shot from the night I brought home the other Prologue shows the stem I think will work on this along with some aerobar bolt ons I still have tucked away somewhere.

rowebr

That is just wild! Looking forward to hearing about your experience with trying to ride it...perhaps try it out on a closed course first?

jamesdak 

Well, after some soaking and persuasion with an extension on the wrench the stem is free. I put in the riser stem I had and the reach is now my normal reach. Next step will be to figure out a bar setup to try and then see if it'll fit. Even if this doesn't work out for me it'll be a good learning exercise in sorting out a TT bike fit.

RiddleOfSteel

Man, you guys and your Schwinn finds... Very cool!

wrk101

Double check the serial number, it should have a Panasonic serial number stamped on the lower head tube lug. Date code should be later, so that is odd indeed. But if its close, factory may have had a pile of already stamped headbadge and just put one on.

Thats the only funny bike I would keep. I had a Nishiki funny bike, I couldn't ride it, too severe a riding position. So I moved it to a new home. The Prologue TT would be a wall hanger, oh the inhumanity!

jamesdak 

Well, you can certainly sort of make the numbers out in the pics. The frame number off the head tube starts with an "8". The stamped number on the headbadge ends in 7. I was excited at first when I saw the headbadge number because I was like. "Oh yeah, another 1987 Schwinn for the collection!"

LOL, and no worries. I don't REALLY believe in wall hangers. I'm actually going to stop by the LBS today and pick up a BB for the hollowtech crankset I have at the house. I want to mock this one all up so I can put it on my trainer and see if I can dial in a fit that works for me. The stem I put on it last night might have me close. So I just need to figure out what short of bars to put on this to mount the Scott Aero setup too. I'm thinking bullhorns but really don't know yet.

Colnago Mixte

Speaking of Nishiki "funny bikes" look at the fairly radical downward top tube slope on my '85 Nishiki International.

Bikes these days all have the top tube angled down toward the seat tube, but 1980's bikes were the exact opposite. Those bikes in the 1984 Olympics really turned a lot of heads and set a trend. It gives you a relatively longer seat tube, which I really like. Lets you get more frame springiness from an elongated seat tube, at least on a steel bike.

I'm not sure why this design was abandoned at some point, maybe it was the advent of non-steel frames, but it's definitely an 80's thing.

jamesdak 

Thought I'd share this pic from last night. This may be common knowledge for most but it appears the steerer tube on Tange Prestige is reinforced with spherical ridges too.

Not the best shot as I was using just the cell phone. I was really just checking for rust.....

jamesdak 

Head Tube Badge is stamped 3347 - 30 Nov 1987

Frame is stamped 8A05130 - Jan 1988

Funny thing is my other Prologue is the same way.

Head Tube Badge is stamped 0497 - 18 Feb 1987

Frame is stamped 7D04770 - Apr 1987

Steve Whitlatch 

My head badge is 0567. I looked quickly but could no find the serial number?

jamesdak 

Should be stamped on the bottom of the front of the head tube.

Steve Whitlatch 

The only place I did not look. Thanks.

badge 0567

Serial # 7D06416

CliffordK

Wow, looks like a neat project!!!

Here is my project from earlier this year. Now that BF changed policies, I'll try to re-up some high-res photos soon.



It is a fun bike.

You got a 24" wheel? Wow!!!

As far as the seattube height, I don't think it makes that much difference as long as you get the top tube length & stem position right. One certainly doesn't have to worry too much about top tube clearance.

I'm not sure how the bikes were configured 30 years ago, but I believe that one needs a fairly forward seat position and the saddle nose angled towards the bars.

Trakhak

To make sure that a funny bike fits you correctly, measure the virtual (horizontal) top tube length. It should be very close to the top tube length on a conventional road bike that fits you right.

If the top tube length is right, then simply set the saddle height per your usual pedal-to-saddle measurement. If the bike fits well, there should be no more than 2 inches or so of seatpost showing.

Finally, install flat bullhorn handlebars whose extensions end with an upward bend. Funny bikes were not designed to be used with bullhorns with downward bends, let alone with drop bars.

CliffordK

I still like my profile design bars, similar to these, but without the center piece, although they are a little flexy.



They are similar to a vintage Scott bar, but with a bit flatter drops.


VeloBase.com - Component: Nitto Scott Time Trial

jamesdak 

Awesome info but....

This is the largest of the two sizes they made so I actually thought it would be too big for me. But to get the saddle height right I've sure got more than 2" inches of seatpost. More like my normal 5". The top tube length seems to be about right though.

The riser stem I had on hand pretty much puts my bar reach at the right length so I'm going to try that. Bullhorns were what I was seeing as correct in my research. I figure to put brake levers on the ends of them. Then some clip on aero bars. Turns out the Scott's bars I have won't work. The clamps are for thinner handlebars, dang it! So I'm thinking maybe some clip-ons that will let me mount bar end shifters to them. Then I guess it's just a matter of sorting out which size clip on's to get. Time for more research.

This pic shows it with the riser stem swapped in and the saddle about at the right spot based on the center of the BB. This would change a tad if I don't go with my normal 172.5 cranks.



Of course this is all just for fun. As long as I can get a usable fit on this I'll be keeping it and using it. We've got a nice flat causeway in the area running out to Antelope Island that has very little traffic. Perfect place to use something like this to add something different into my daily rides.

The Golden Boy 

The craftsmanship really shows through- so this is a Panasonic built frame?

Trakhak

The riser stem should put the bullhorns at the correct height for you. But "correct height" means that the bullhorns should put your hands in the same position as in the drops of the conventional road bars on your other (road) bikes.

That, in turn, means that the aero bars that you plan to install should have tall riser posts for the forearm pads; otherwise, the pads will probably be far too low for comfort and efficiency.

That's a spectacularly beautiful bike, by the way. I envy you.

jamesdak 

^ Actually this is good, I think. The stem on there right now is just a bit shorter than the tops of my current bars, not the drops. Pretty much in the middle between the two dimensions. Although I do have a set of pads on risers from the other prologue. The riser section is a little more than an inch tall. My plan is to mock this beast all up and throw it on the trainer to try and sort out the fit. Winter's coming quick so I may have all winter to sort this out.

And thanks for the compliment on the bike. I think it's beautiful too and hope I can sort it out to work for me. Like my 2 other frames waiting I have to figure if I stay period correct on the components or go modern. I've got brakes and crankset for 10 speed on hand and may just expand on that stuff for this one.

CliffordK

I'd encourage you to try it without the riser stem. Try a typical quill that will bring the bars out straight, and see what it is like to ride the bike.

Your back should be essentially flat.