race rig porn - show me your bike!
02-26-07, 07:10 AM
#77
Throw the stick!!!!
Originally Posted by cslone
It works fine, but thanks. I don't like the cpu on my bars.
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02-26-07, 07:23 AM
#78
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My standard wouldn't rotate, so I had to mount it like that. Hmmm.........I'll have to look at mine now.
02-26-07, 07:25 AM
#79
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Originally Posted by toshi
Cool, how are you liking your team sl now that it's built up, cslone?
I really like it. Not sure why it's so much better than my Team Pro, but it's definitely my favorite by far. I finally put the finishing touches on it Friday night, so I chanced it by racing on Saturday, but it was great.
02-26-07, 07:29 AM
#80
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Originally Posted by cslone
My standard wouldn't rotate, so I had to mount it like that. Hmmm.........I'll have to look at mine now.
The cradle for the head unit comes in two pieces. The part that goes over the stem (or the bars) and the part that connects to the yellow head unit. Stick a thin screw driver in the slot to release the tab, and the two parts slide apart, then you can rotate the top piece 90 degrees and slide it back to gether.
02-26-07, 07:42 AM
#81
Throw the stick!!!!
Originally Posted by cslone
I really like it. Not sure why it's so much better than my Team Pro, but it's definitely my favorite by far. I finally put the finishing touches on it Friday night, so I chanced it by racing on Saturday, but it was great.
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02-26-07, 08:16 AM
#82
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Originally Posted by cslone
It works fine, but thanks. I don't like the cpu on my bars.
Q: How can I mount the PowerTap harness on my stem?
A: You can do this by crossing the zip ties so that they exit one side of the mount but cross over and enter the other side. A cleaner method, however, is to tightly wrap electrical tape around the stem and the lower part of the mount, behind the ‘ears.’ Be careful how much tape you use; too much will cause a poor fit between the harness and PT. With both methods it’s best to put a very small piece of pipe insulation under the harness to fill in the gaps.
Q: How can I mount the PowerTap harness on my stem?
A: You can do this by crossing the zip ties so that they exit one side of the mount but cross over and enter the other side. A cleaner method, however, is to tightly wrap electrical tape around the stem and the lower part of the mount, behind the ‘ears.’ Be careful how much tape you use; too much will cause a poor fit between the harness and PT. With both methods it’s best to put a very small piece of pipe insulation under the harness to fill in the gaps.
02-26-07, 04:14 PM
#84
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How are the Q-Rings working out? Gimmicky, or real-deal?
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02-26-07, 04:14 PM
#85
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What kind of cranks are those Vino?
02-26-07, 04:16 PM
#86
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Originally Posted by Vinokurtov
I can post the build if anyone's interested. Sub 14 as it sits...
02-26-07, 04:44 PM
#87
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The rings are just hype. The bike is all 105 with Mavic Open Pros because that's all you really need
and you won't notice a few pounds anyway. I just take a big poo before the race.
For real:
07 Fuji SL1 frame and fork
Reynolds Cirro rims laced to American Classic hubs (ceramic bearings) with Sapim X Ray spokes
Tufo S3 Lite 21 tires mounted with extreme tape
Bontrager Ti Skewers
Campagnolo Record controls, front and rear derailluers, tuned with ti bolts
Nokon cables
Campagnolo 11/26 Record cassette with alloy lock ring (also use a Token 11/27 and Record 12/29, 11/23, 11/25)
Zero Gravity Ti brakes, Kool Stop dual compound brake pads
Stronglight Vulcan cranks (ISIS)
American Classic ISIS bottom bracket with ceramic bearings
Rotor Q rings 53/40
Campagnolo Ultra narrow chain
Look Keo carbon pedals
Reynolds Ouzo carbon seat post 31.6
Selle Italia SLR gel flow saddle (going to try the SLR XC gel flow, same shape a bit lighter)
Syntace F99 stem with Ti bolts
TTT Less 199 bars
Polar HR monitor, Sigma Sport computer (bottom end simple units)
I like the Q Rings enough that I've ordered a set for my training bike and my TT bike.
I'll be doing some testing with them and my Ergomo, but I felt they provided a smoother and more powerful pedal stroke on the climbs.
I'm willing to give up a slight weight gain for the additional power.
and you won't notice a few pounds anyway. I just take a big poo before the race.
For real:
07 Fuji SL1 frame and fork
Reynolds Cirro rims laced to American Classic hubs (ceramic bearings) with Sapim X Ray spokes
Tufo S3 Lite 21 tires mounted with extreme tape
Bontrager Ti Skewers
Campagnolo Record controls, front and rear derailluers, tuned with ti bolts
Nokon cables
Campagnolo 11/26 Record cassette with alloy lock ring (also use a Token 11/27 and Record 12/29, 11/23, 11/25)
Zero Gravity Ti brakes, Kool Stop dual compound brake pads
Stronglight Vulcan cranks (ISIS)
American Classic ISIS bottom bracket with ceramic bearings
Rotor Q rings 53/40
Campagnolo Ultra narrow chain
Look Keo carbon pedals
Reynolds Ouzo carbon seat post 31.6
Selle Italia SLR gel flow saddle (going to try the SLR XC gel flow, same shape a bit lighter)
Syntace F99 stem with Ti bolts
TTT Less 199 bars
Polar HR monitor, Sigma Sport computer (bottom end simple units)
I like the Q Rings enough that I've ordered a set for my training bike and my TT bike.
I'll be doing some testing with them and my Ergomo, but I felt they provided a smoother and more powerful pedal stroke on the climbs.
I'm willing to give up a slight weight gain for the additional power.
Last edited by Vinokurtov; 02-26-07 at 04:55 PM.
02-26-07, 04:57 PM
#88
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As for the Q-rings, I did two 10 mile TT's on a computrainer with round rings and two 10 mile TT's with the q-rings. Same course, same times, etc. Each 1 week apart, alternating bewtween the type of rings each time. I noticed a 7 watt gain the first round and 11 the second. Not real scientific, but whatever.
02-26-07, 05:02 PM
#89
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Well, the rings don't work with my Shimano compact crank, so I'd have to either:
- Get just the small (inner) ring
or
- Replace my whole crank.
YOu think it's worth it to just replace the 36 ring with a Q-Ring, and leave the 50 round ring?
- Get just the small (inner) ring
or
- Replace my whole crank.
YOu think it's worth it to just replace the 36 ring with a Q-Ring, and leave the 50 round ring?
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02-26-07, 05:18 PM
#90
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Originally Posted by bdcheung
Well, the rings don't work with my Shimano compact crank, so I'd have to either:
- Get just the small (inner) ring
or
- Replace my whole crank.
YOu think it's worth it to just replace the 36 ring with a Q-Ring, and leave the 50 round ring?
- Get just the small (inner) ring
or
- Replace my whole crank.
YOu think it's worth it to just replace the 36 ring with a Q-Ring, and leave the 50 round ring?
02-26-07, 05:25 PM
#91
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110mm, that's not the issue. The issue is that the Crankarm is cut in such a way that it interferes with the crank bolt holes of the Q-Rings. The only way to get the outer ring to work with the Shimano crankarm is to modify it, thus wise to achieve proper clearance:
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02-26-07, 05:28 PM
#92
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Originally Posted by bdcheung
110mm, that's not the issue. The issue is that the Crankarm is cut in such a way that it interferes with the crank bolt holes of the Q-Rings. The only way to get the outer ring to work with the Shimano crankarm is to modify it, thus wise to achieve proper clearance:
02-26-07, 05:29 PM
#93
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Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
Gotcha
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02-26-07, 05:32 PM
#94
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Originally Posted by bdcheung
Ok, I gave you the explanation. Now you provide your constructive input
Sorry it's the best I can do.
02-26-07, 05:45 PM
#96
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The effective total # of teeth is variable. At the "dead spot", the teeth on their standard 53 chainring numbers 51, which helps the rider move past the "dead spot" faster. During the "power" portion of the pedal stroke, the teeth increase up to 56, making maximum use of the rider's power.
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"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
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"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!
02-26-07, 05:47 PM
#97
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Originally Posted by UmneyDurak
So whats so special about Q-rings? I looked in to their website seems like a regular chain ring to me.
02-26-07, 06:30 PM
#98
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Originally Posted by cslone
As for the Q-rings, I did two 10 mile TT's on a computrainer with round rings and two 10 mile TT's with the q-rings. Same course, same times, etc. Each 1 week apart, alternating bewtween the type of rings each time. I noticed a 7 watt gain the first round and 11 the second. Not real scientific, but whatever.
The Q rings will let you index to match your particular pedal stroke; I ended up setting up mine a bit forward from their initial suggested starting point.
They require a bit more time setting up the front derailluer, and they don't shift quite as smooth as OEM Dura or Campy, but they aren't bad and I haven't dropped a chain with them yet. I've got some compact rings coming, so I'll pass on what I find with those.
Originally Posted by bdcheung
Ok, I gave you the explanation. Now you provide your constructive input
02-26-07, 06:42 PM
#99
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Originally Posted by Vinokurtov
Call the exterminator, you got aluminum termites.
__________________
"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!
"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!
