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Old 12-12-22, 12:31 AM
  #8401  
georges1
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Originally Posted by t2p






1st pic shows seat tube lug with integrated cable guides (for FD and rear brake)

2nd pic shows pulley (for bottom pull FD cable routing)

3rd pic shows head tube lug with integrated cable stops / guides
very nice and detailed frame thanks for sharing
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Old 12-12-22, 12:33 AM
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Those FD pulleys are well weird - I have yet to come across one of these here. Aren't they kinda awkward to make work? Really curious.
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Old 12-12-22, 10:16 AM
  #8403  
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Originally Posted by Positron400
Those FD pulleys are well weird - I have yet to come across one of these here. Aren't they kinda awkward to make work? Really curious.
Not if you have a bottom pull Front Derailleur when the cable is running along the top tube.
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Old 12-12-22, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Positron400
Those FD pulleys are well weird - I have yet to come across one of these here. Aren't they kinda awkward to make work? Really curious.
A bit. They were a bandaid before anyone developed top pull derailers.

Originally Posted by OTS
Not if you have a bottom pull Front Derailleur when the cable is running along the top tube.
But luckily we have top pull front derailers now. Sooooo much better!
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Old 12-12-22, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
A bit. They were a bandaid before anyone developed top pull derailers.



But luckily we have top pull front derailers now. Sooooo much better!
Or better still, no FD at all.
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Old 12-12-22, 01:48 PM
  #8406  
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Originally Posted by t2p






1st pic shows seat tube lug with integrated cable guides (for FD and rear brake)

2nd pic shows pulley (for bottom pull FD cable routing)

3rd pic shows head tube lug with integrated cable stops / guides
You're going to have the same issue I had with my Hard Rock. At some point the brake cable cuts a groove into those metal cable guides and get bound up. Then the calipers don't release. Super fun problem to solve.
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Old 12-12-22, 01:55 PM
  #8407  
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Originally Posted by shoota
You're going to have the same issue I had with my Hard Rock. At some point the brake cable cuts a groove into those metal cable guides and get bound up. Then the calipers don't release. Super fun problem to solve.
I have something like that on my Rockhopper (likely the same as your HR). I stuck a short piece of housing liner in the fitting. Seems to be working well; the cable movement is noticeably smoother.
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Old 12-12-22, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by due ruote
I have something like that on my Rockhopper (likely the same as your HR). I stuck a short piece of housing liner in the fitting. Seems to be working well; the cable movement is noticeably smoother.
Dang, liner didn't work for me. The groove was already too deep and the cable would still just pinch in the slot. I wound up dremeling out half of the cable stop and creating a new path for the cable.
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Old 12-12-22, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by OldForerunner
Or better still, no FD at all.
That’s not better at all.
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Old 12-12-22, 04:12 PM
  #8410  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
That’s not better at all.
Well, it darn sure ain't worse. Less weight, less complexity, one fewer cable and requisite housing(s), one less thing to adjust and maintain, less overlap in gearing, seamless changes through the gears, etc.

Of all the 'improvements' and changes in standards the bike industry creates at the expense of the consumer, the 1x drivetrain is one of the few I can get behind.

YMMV.
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Old 12-12-22, 05:48 PM
  #8411  
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Originally Posted by Positron400
Those FD pulleys are well weird - I have yet to come across one of these here. Aren't they kinda awkward to make work? Really curious.
I really like them. Silly little pulleys are cool. You still get reasonably light shifting.
The angle that top pull derailer cables goes off at, away from the seat tube, always bothers me.

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Old 12-12-22, 06:34 PM
  #8412  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
A bit. They were a bandaid before anyone developed top pull derailers.



But luckily we have top pull front derailers now. Sooooo much better!
I currently have a top pull FD for this bike - but was considering a bottom pull

might be better going top pull ... ???
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Old 12-12-22, 06:37 PM
  #8413  
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Originally Posted by Soody
I really like them. Silly little pulleys are cool. You still get reasonably light shifting.
The angle that top pull derailer cables goes off at, away from the seat tube, always bothers me.
I can see that on this ATX 760

and the shorter the seat tube - the more severe the angle will be
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Old 12-12-22, 06:50 PM
  #8414  
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Originally Posted by shoota
You're going to have the same issue I had with my Hard Rock. At some point the brake cable cuts a groove into those metal cable guides and get bound up. Then the calipers don't release. Super fun problem to solve.
Use V Brakes. You'd have to run full length housing but V Brakes use the noodle for the stop. They'll fit right on cantilever mounts too..
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Old 12-12-22, 06:55 PM
  #8415  
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Originally Posted by Soody
I really like them. Silly little pulleys are cool. You still get reasonably light shifting.
The angle that top pull derailer cables goes off at, away from the seat tube, always bothers me.

Agreed. I’ve had a few bikes with them and they’ve always worked well. How cool is a 3DV pulley down low on the seat tube where no one expects it?
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Old 12-12-22, 07:38 PM
  #8416  
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Originally Posted by due ruote
I have something like that on my Rockhopper (likely the same as your HR). I stuck a short piece of housing liner in the fitting. Seems to be working well; the cable movement is noticeably smoother.


seems to work well - no issue on this similar PDG70

( equipped with this from the factory )

I will need to find this stuff ... not sure what the technical name is ... housing liner ... ? cable liner ? ...
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Old 12-12-22, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by t2p
I will need to find this stuff ... not sure what the technical name is ... housing liner ... ? cable liner ? ...
ptfe tubing? 1.3, 1.4 mm id
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Old 12-12-22, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by OldForerunner
Well, it darn sure ain't worse. Less weight, less complexity, one fewer cable and requisite housing(s), one less thing to adjust and maintain, less overlap in gearing, seamless changes through the gears, etc.
Less range is their major fault. Choose a good high gear or a good low gear…you can’t have both. A 10-52 cassette will give a 520% gear range. I have bikes with a 720% gear range which means I can ride with really low gears and still not spin out on the high end. I have one bike with an 800% gear range. That’s a 13” low and a 110” high. A 10-52 can have that low a gear but has a 72” high which means you coast over speeds of about 25 mph.

I don’t find the front derailer to be all that difficult to adjust nor maintain. Once set, there is very little need for adjustment. I’ll gladly trade a little weight and complexity so that I don’t have to coast.

YMMV.
Yes indeed.
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Old 12-12-22, 09:25 PM
  #8419  
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Originally Posted by t2p
I currently have a top pull FD for this bike - but was considering a bottom pull

might be better going top pull ... ???
You usually can’t mix the two. A top pull front derailer has the cable guides running along the top tube while a bottom pull has cable guides running along the downtube. It’s difficult to change from one to the other.
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Old 12-12-22, 11:54 PM
  #8420  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Less range is their major fault. Choose a good high gear or a good low gear…you can’t have both. A 10-52 cassette will give a 520% gear range. I have bikes with a 720% gear range which means I can ride with really low gears and still not spin out on the high end. I have one bike with an 800% gear range. That’s a 13” low and a 110” high. A 10-52 can have that low a gear but has a 72” high which means you coast over speeds of about 25 mph.

I don’t find the front derailer to be all that difficult to adjust nor maintain. Once set, there is very little need for adjustment. I’ll gladly trade a little weight and complexity so that I don’t have to coast.



Yes indeed.
On the three MTB I've converted from 3x to 1x I've saved a minimum of 1 lb. Speeds over 25mph on an MTB? Mebbe time to switch to a more efficient road bike.

And while FD adjustment and maintenance may not be difficult for you, 0 is less than any.

Last edited by OldForerunner; 12-13-22 at 12:06 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-13-22, 01:57 AM
  #8421  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
You usually can’t mix the two. A top pull front derailer has the cable guides running along the top tube while a bottom pull has cable guides running along the downtube. It’s difficult to change from one to the other.
I have actually fumbled a side pull to work with a bottom pull setup on my Rockhopper. Will try'n provide some pictures from my adventurous cable routing and edit them in.
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Old 12-13-22, 09:01 AM
  #8422  
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Originally Posted by Schweinhund
Use V Brakes. You'd have to run full length housing but V Brakes use the noodle for the stop. They'll fit right on cantilever mounts too..
That's precisely what I did.
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Old 12-13-22, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I don’t find the front derailer to be all that difficult to adjust nor maintain. Once set, there is very little need for adjustment. I’ll gladly trade a little weight and complexity so that I don’t have to coast.
Thank you. I've wasted too much of my life trying to explain this to the kid at the LBS who's never actually experienced a front derailleur. I like me some 3x9!
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Old 12-13-22, 10:33 AM
  #8424  
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Originally Posted by OldForerunner
On the three MTB I've converted from 3x to 1x I've saved a minimum of 1 lb. Speeds over 25mph on an MTB? Mebbe time to switch to a more efficient road bike.

And while FD adjustment and maintenance may not be difficult for you, 0 is less than any.
While I am also a fan of ditching front derailluers and chain rings, one detail seemingly overlooked here is location. If I lived in Denver, Colorado a super low gear would be much more important to me than it is in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Ditto a higher gear... the elevation changes go both ways after all.

Horses for courses and all that.
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Old 12-13-22, 11:54 AM
  #8425  
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Originally Posted by DesmoDog
While I am also a fan of ditching front derailluers and chain rings, one detail seemingly overlooked here is location. If I lived in Denver, Colorado a super low gear would be much more important to me than it is in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Ditto a higher gear... the elevation changes go both ways after all.

Horses for courses and all that.
Agreed. The 1X debate is getting so old.
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