Fit problems with CS-4600 cassette and wheel with 11 speed hub?
10-08-15, 03:26 PM
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Fit problems with CS-4600 cassette and wheel with 11 speed hub?
I recently picked up a AClass CXD5 wheelset for my Diamondback Century Disc. My plan was to make it my main wheels and keep my old rear for trainer use. In order to hopefully keep swapping easy, I picked up another Shimano CS-4600 12-30T 10 speed cassette as that is what is on my old wheel.
The new wheel has a 11 speed hub and came with a spacer for 10 speed cassette use. However when I use the provided spacer, the cassette protrudes too far and I am unable to thread the lockring in place. The cassette did not come with a 1mm spacer like a 105 or Ultegra cassette would. If I mount just the cassette without the provided spacer (1.8mm I think), the lockring threads properly and there does not appear to be any movement, but that does not make sense to me as everything I have read states I need to use that spacer.
Should I pick up a 1mm spacer to use since the one provided with the wheel appears to be too thick? I have rechecked multiple times to make sure the cassette in installed correctly. Thanks in advance for any advice.
The new wheel has a 11 speed hub and came with a spacer for 10 speed cassette use. However when I use the provided spacer, the cassette protrudes too far and I am unable to thread the lockring in place. The cassette did not come with a 1mm spacer like a 105 or Ultegra cassette would. If I mount just the cassette without the provided spacer (1.8mm I think), the lockring threads properly and there does not appear to be any movement, but that does not make sense to me as everything I have read states I need to use that spacer.
Should I pick up a 1mm spacer to use since the one provided with the wheel appears to be too thick? I have rechecked multiple times to make sure the cassette in installed correctly. Thanks in advance for any advice.
10-08-15, 03:44 PM
#2
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yes I would pick up the 1 mm spacer , you can find them at your LBS . on the other hand if everything seem tight then I would go with it .
10-08-15, 04:24 PM
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The rule for cassette fit on freehubs is very simple.
The front of the cassette has to overhang the freehub body by 1-2mm so the lockring can compress it without bottoming against the freehub body.
Once you get the idea of what's necessary, then it's simply a matter of doing whatever is called for, either no spacer, or a spacer of the right width to achieve the necessary.
If you haven't tried it without a spacer yet, do so before shopping for the thinner one. Otherwise buy whatever spacer it calls for.
The front of the cassette has to overhang the freehub body by 1-2mm so the lockring can compress it without bottoming against the freehub body.
Once you get the idea of what's necessary, then it's simply a matter of doing whatever is called for, either no spacer, or a spacer of the right width to achieve the necessary.
If you haven't tried it without a spacer yet, do so before shopping for the thinner one. Otherwise buy whatever spacer it calls for.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-08-15, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
The rule for cassette fit on freehubs is very simple.
The front of the cassette has to overhang the freehub body by 1-2mm so the lockring can compress it without bottoming against the freehub body.
Once you get the idea of what's necessary, then it's simply a matter of doing whatever is called for, either no spacer, or a spacer of the right width to achieve the necessary.
The front of the cassette has to overhang the freehub body by 1-2mm so the lockring can compress it without bottoming against the freehub body.
Once you get the idea of what's necessary, then it's simply a matter of doing whatever is called for, either no spacer, or a spacer of the right width to achieve the necessary.
10-08-15, 06:28 PM
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Have you tried and verified an 11 speed cassette actually fits on the body?
I'd be suspicious having to put only a 1mm spacer behind a 10 speed cassette if it's supposed to be an 11 speed freehub body.
I'd be suspicious having to put only a 1mm spacer behind a 10 speed cassette if it's supposed to be an 11 speed freehub body.
10-09-15, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by andr0id
Have you tried and verified an 11 speed cassette actually fits on the body?
I'd be suspicious having to put only a 1mm spacer behind a 10 speed cassette if it's supposed to be an 11 speed freehub body.
I'd be suspicious having to put only a 1mm spacer behind a 10 speed cassette if it's supposed to be an 11 speed freehub body.
I was surprised how much lighter the new wheels are. With bigger 28c tires, Ai2 discs and same CS-4600 cassette combined they are 1lb 3oz lighter than my old wheels. Not to shabby considering the price of them.
I do have a second question, the rear wheel does not seem to spin all that freely on the bike with the new wheel. The Freehub seems a bit stiff. There does not seem to be any significant drag from the disc brakes and nothing is touching. Do new hubs require a break in period?
10-09-15, 12:16 PM
#7
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Sound like the cones need to be adjusted , you can do this yourself https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ or you can take it back to your LBS and let them do it .
10-09-15, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bikeman715
Sound like the cones need to be adjusted , you can do this yourself https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ or you can take it back to your LBS and let them do it .
10-09-15, 04:14 PM
#9
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if you can take photos we could tell for sure .
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