Can a 700c rim and tire fit a bicycle made for 700b rims and tires?
#1
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Can a 700c rim and tire fit a bicycle made for 700b rims and tires?
I had the misfortune of buying a Flying Pigeon replica a few years ago, rod brakes and all, and despite multiple attempts to try to sell it, it just hasn’t happened, so I thought to make it more useful, I could buy a rim with a built in Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub, get the parts for the shifter and have a makeshift Dutch city bike. The tire size is currently my only concern. Information from Sheldon Brown’s site shows that rod brake bicycles used 28 inch or 700b rims and tires. The rims I’m looking at are still 28 inches but are technically 700c. Will 700c be able to fit? Will I have to find a 700b rim with an internal gear hub if any exist at all?
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It looks as though if your brake pads have 6.5mm of vertical travel down, then you should be able to make it work. 700b rims have a diameter of 635mm, while 700c are 622mm. That's 13mm difference, so 6.5mm each top and bottom. Whether it will practically work, I have no idea, but this the measurement that matters, and that you should check.
EDIT: Oh, rod brakes. What am I talking about? Others more knowledgeable will chime in shortly. Sorry, need coffee... I don't know the first thing about rod brakes...
EDIT: Oh, rod brakes. What am I talking about? Others more knowledgeable will chime in shortly. Sorry, need coffee... I don't know the first thing about rod brakes...
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27 inch will be closer in size to 700b than 700c. The ISO on 27 inch is 630; for 700b it's 635.
This is useful:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
This is useful:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
Last edited by bikemig; 02-28-20 at 12:01 PM.
#5
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It's feasible but IMO that's the hard way to do go. Adjusting them to a slightly smaller diameter is no problem, but might be a little difficult and tedious depending on your mechanical ability. A bigger concern is that not all rims are going to work well with rod brakes. The rims on those bikes are designed specifically for them.
A better option would be to relace the rear rim onto an internally geared hub. If you do it yourself, all you need is a hub of the correct width and number of spoke holes, and some spokes. If you have a bike shop do it, they tend to charge a fair amount these days as wheelbuilding is an increasing rare skill, but I think it'd still be less than buying a new set of wheels and paying a bike shop to readjust your brakes.
A better option would be to relace the rear rim onto an internally geared hub. If you do it yourself, all you need is a hub of the correct width and number of spoke holes, and some spokes. If you have a bike shop do it, they tend to charge a fair amount these days as wheelbuilding is an increasing rare skill, but I think it'd still be less than buying a new set of wheels and paying a bike shop to readjust your brakes.
#6
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700C rims for rod brakes do exist. Beretta from Italy. Yellow Jersey used to have them, don't know if he still has stock.
Flying Pigeon is basically a Raleigh DL-1 clone. I ride an Eastman DL-1 clone from Delhi. Lots of effort was required to make it a working bike. Of the various DL-1 clones I've seen, Flying Pigeons as imported to US in recent years are the worst. The difficulties working on them are extreme, the payoff uncertain. Better to start from scratch with a different bike.
Flying Pigeon is basically a Raleigh DL-1 clone. I ride an Eastman DL-1 clone from Delhi. Lots of effort was required to make it a working bike. Of the various DL-1 clones I've seen, Flying Pigeons as imported to US in recent years are the worst. The difficulties working on them are extreme, the payoff uncertain. Better to start from scratch with a different bike.
#7
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Thought I would add the original parts on my Eastman are the front hub and the seatpost. On a bike that started out as far better than any Flying Pigeon. Be realistic. The DL-1 ride is fantastic, billions have enjoyed it. You won't get to play if not ready for a whole lot of wrenching. Were I doing it over again I'd have started with a real Raleigh DL-1 from 70s or early 80s. They are around and offered for sale fairly regularly. All are low miles examples because getting them rideable is beyond most all of us.
DL-1 from 1960s or even 1950s can be found as well. They are lovely and should be kept largely original. You are not making a DL-1 into a daily rider and keeping it original.
DL-1 from 1960s or even 1950s can be found as well. They are lovely and should be kept largely original. You are not making a DL-1 into a daily rider and keeping it original.
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Ambrosio makes aluminum 700C rims for rod brakes: https://ambrosiowheels.com/en/rims/classics/via-veneto/
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I would look for aluminum 28" x 1 1/2" rims- then buy the hub (keeping note on ratios... some of them are designed for 20" wheeled bikes) get it built up and swap same size. The brakes will work better too.
Probably going to have to find a European vendor for those rims.
Probably going to have to find a European vendor for those rims.
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I had the misfortune of buying a Flying Pigeon replica a few years ago, rod brakes and all, and despite multiple attempts to try to sell it, it just hasn’t happened, so I thought to make it more useful, I could buy a rim with a built in Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub, get the parts for the shifter and have a makeshift Dutch city bike. The tire size is currently my only concern. Information from Sheldon Brown’s site shows that rod brake bicycles used 28 inch or 700b rims and tires. The rims I’m looking at are still 28 inches but are technically 700c. Will 700c be able to fit? Will I have to find a 700b rim with an internal gear hub if any exist at all?
Personally, I wouldn't sink money into this bike, Take the loss and build or buy a different bike you will love.
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#12
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Rims made for stirrup brakes have the braking surface on the inner face of the rim, alongside the spoke holes. Rims made for 700C have the braking surface on the vertical sides of the rim. I realize Flying Pigeons go pretty slowly, but you do still need to have brakes.
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