Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Hydraulic disc brake levers

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Hydraulic disc brake levers

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-23-22, 01:21 PM
  #1  
Fandomii
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Hydraulic disc brake levers

Hi folks,

I have a Magura MT4 pair of hydraulic disc brakes. They've done about 2500km in original pads. A couple months ago I noticed that the left (front) brake had to be pressed in more than the right brake to actuate. A mechanic told me that this is due to brake pad wear, but the pads were still good and not needing replacement.
Q1: Is this true, that as the brake pads wear out, the lever needs to be pressed more to actuate?)

Now last week I brought the bike to another mechanic, with a complaint that the back brake pads (right handle) were touching the rotor a bit. After I received the bike, the right handle now needs to be squeezed much more than before.
Q2: Can someone explain to me what happened after the visit to the second mechanic, why is the lever more "squishy" now? Did they maybe mess something up?
Fandomii is offline  
Old 02-23-22, 01:42 PM
  #2  
Darth Lefty 
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,105 Times in 1,369 Posts
Q1 - this was true of mechanical disc brakes but not true for hydraulic brakes. The brake pistons normally don't slide in the seals except due to wear or maintenance. Rather their seals roll a bit, and the seals pull the pads back when pressure is released. (Imagine trying to start rolling a rubber band off a cylinder, but not quite getting it to roll over - then letting go and it returns to where it started.). That distance is more or less constant unless something there is worn out. The pistons do slide very gradually in the seals as the pads wear down, so the pull back distance is maintained. When the pads wear and the pistons slide, the volume in the caliper increases, and more oil comes down from the master cylinder reservoir, allowed past the master piston by the timing ports So the bite point is also maintained.

Q2 - yes, likely bled improperly and now there is some air in the system. Which had probably already happened on the left side.

Bleed instructions. If you really wanted to take this further you (or the mechanic) might rebuild the brakes with new seals.

MAGURA MT: Tech Videos - YouTube
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17

Last edited by Darth Lefty; 02-23-22 at 01:55 PM.
Darth Lefty is offline  
Likes For Darth Lefty:
Old 03-15-22, 11:38 AM
  #3  
Fandomii
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
Q1 - this was true of mechanical disc brakes but not true for hydraulic brakes. The brake pistons normally don't slide in the seals except due to wear or maintenance. Rather their seals roll a bit, and the seals pull the pads back when pressure is released. (Imagine trying to start rolling a rubber band off a cylinder, but not quite getting it to roll over - then letting go and it returns to where it started.). That distance is more or less constant unless something there is worn out. The pistons do slide very gradually in the seals as the pads wear down, so the pull back distance is maintained. When the pads wear and the pistons slide, the volume in the caliper increases, and more oil comes down from the master cylinder reservoir, allowed past the master piston by the timing ports So the bite point is also maintained.

Q2 - yes, likely bled improperly and now there is some air in the system. Which had probably already happened on the left side.

Bleed instructions. If you really wanted to take this further you (or the mechanic) might rebuild the brakes with new seals.

MAGURA MT: Tech Videos - YouTube
Thank you. I actually noticed the left pull back distance had suddenly been "increased", however the bike had not had any visits to the bike shop and I had not tampered with the brakes - so no bleeding. Could it be some dirt or something else that made the left brake more squishy?
Fandomii is offline  
Old 03-15-22, 02:16 PM
  #4  
andrewclaus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,837

Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times in 430 Posts
Without getting hands on it, it's hard to tell exactly what you mean by "squishy." If once the pads hit the rotor the lever is firm, I wouldn't call that squishy. Squishy is when there's air in the system and the pads contact the rotor but not firmly.

Excessive brake lever travel may not be squishy. It sounds like that's the case from your first post. It sounds like the piston seals are "stuck" in their original position and are not sliding out as designed. That's probably from dirt and corrosion. As mentioned above, the calipers may need to be serviced/rebuilt.

I saw a Park Tools video about cleaning the seals and exercising them to get them to move and I did that successfully once, but I'm not an expert on that. It takes some fiddling around and maybe your local shops can't take the time to do that, or you just haven't found the right mechanic.
andrewclaus is offline  
Likes For andrewclaus:
Old 03-15-22, 04:46 PM
  #5  
Fandomii
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by andrewclaus
Without getting hands on it, it's hard to tell exactly what you mean by "squishy." If once the pads hit the rotor the lever is firm, I wouldn't call that squishy. Squishy is when there's air in the system and the pads contact the rotor but not firmly.

Excessive brake lever travel may not be squishy. It sounds like that's the case from your first post. It sounds like the piston seals are "stuck" in their original position and are not sliding out as designed. That's probably from dirt and corrosion. As mentioned above, the calipers may need to be serviced/rebuilt.

I saw a Park Tools video about cleaning the seals and exercising them to get them to move and I did that successfully once, but I'm not an expert on that. It takes some fiddling around and maybe your local shops can't take the time to do that, or you just haven't found the right mechanic.
Yes this is exactly what I mean, excessive brake lever travel but with good brake performance. My guess is dirt and corrosion as you said. I'll try sand look for that video you mentioned. Many thanks.
Fandomii is offline  
Old 03-15-22, 10:11 PM
  #6  
Darth Lefty 
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,105 Times in 1,369 Posts
From another recent thread.

This is not guaranteed to be your problem, but it's some things to do that make the brakes better. Also a good visualization of the pistons not-really-sliding when braking but really-sliding when wearing or during maintenance

__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  
Likes For Darth Lefty:
Old 03-17-22, 06:17 AM
  #7  
Kapusta
Advanced Slacker
 
Kapusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210

Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times in 1,433 Posts
Does the lever actually travel farther, or is it just set closer to the bar to start with? If it is the latter, there may be a lever reach adjustment that needs tweaking.
Kapusta is offline  
Old 03-17-22, 06:52 AM
  #8  
Fandomii
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Kapusta
Does the lever actually travel farther, or is it just set closer to the bar to start with? If it is the latter, there may be a lever reach adjustment that needs tweaking.
It travels farther unfortunately. The bike mechanic I talked to (who actually made my right lever also travel farther - without me asking him to) said that " I could tighten the screw on the brake lever to "push" the liquid in and tune the lever". But I'm not sure I trust this guy. Can someone explain this a bit better?
Fandomii is offline  
Old 03-17-22, 06:55 AM
  #9  
Kapusta
Advanced Slacker
 
Kapusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210

Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times in 1,433 Posts
Originally Posted by Fandomii
It travels farther unfortunately. The bike mechanic I talked to (who actually made my right lever also travel farther - without me asking him to) said that " I could tighten the screw on the brake lever to "push" the liquid in and tune the lever". But I'm not sure I trust this guy. Can someone explain this a bit better?
What screw is he talking about? Pic would help, here.

If he is talking about the reach adjustment screw, then no, it does not push the fluid anywhere nor does it change how far the lever travels. What it does do is change how far from the bar the lever starts and stops. You can easily see what this does by adjusting it yourself.

Last edited by Kapusta; 03-17-22 at 07:01 AM.
Kapusta is offline  
Old 08-21-22, 11:54 AM
  #10  
Daniel S
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi, Did you ever get this resolved? My right brake lever is all of a sudden getting much close to my bars than my left lever when applying the brake.
Daniel S is offline  
Old 08-21-22, 01:21 PM
  #11  
Fandomii
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Daniel S
Hi, Did you ever get this resolved? My right brake lever is all of a sudden getting much close to my bars than my left lever when applying the brake.
I didn't get it resolved yet, I've been living with it, but I'm pretty sure it has to do with bleeding of the lines. I suggest you bring yours to an authorized repair shop to bleed it and remove the air from the system. Alternatively you can do it yourself but it requires some tools and steady hands.
Fandomii is offline  
Old 08-22-22, 02:18 AM
  #12  
jgwilliams
Senior Member
 
jgwilliams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 870

Bikes: Dolan Tuono 105 Di2, custom built 653 and 531 bikes with frames by Barry Witcomb, Sonder Dial XT mountain bike and a Brompton folding bike.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 298 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 100 Posts
I had Magura Louise brakes on a bike I had many years ago and had exactly the problem you describe, where one piston travel was longer than the other. I found instructions on Magura's site on how to deal with 'sticked' pistons that solved the problem for me.
jgwilliams is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.