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Freewheel internals questions

Old 04-20-22, 10:30 AM
  #26  
buddiiee 
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I hope you arent the same guys using channel locks on campy headsets, and riding with massive hammer marks on the back sides of your crank arms because you didn't want to buy a proper crank puller lol. That stuff can destroy the resale value of nice collectible bikes.
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Old 04-20-22, 11:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
This thread is reminding my why I've never had a desire to take apart a freewheel!
I have had success with SunTour and Shimano freewheels. Regina seem to be more problematic for me. I had success recently in getting a Regina freewheel apart only to fail to remove the the 4th position cog. It was probably on there for 40 years and I didn't want to use heat on it.

This may be partially why many of us like SunTour and Shimano freewheels. These freewheels also came out at the right time in the freewheel design timeline. The European makers had to figure things out. When SunTour and Shimano got into it, they looked at the European freewheels and improved it. Everything thereafter is either a copy of Suntour and Shimano or a step in the wrong direction. As much as I like SunTour, their Winner freewheels with the adjustable cup is not a favorite of mine. Although, it is just as good when it is assembled right.

I also understand not wanting to take a freewheel apart. It can be a challenge and replacement freewheels are available. So far, I've been able to stick to my old SunTours and Shimano's.
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Old 04-20-22, 03:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by buddiiee
I hope you arent the same guys using channel locks on campy headsets, and riding with massive hammer marks on the back sides of your crank arms because you didn't want to buy a proper crank puller lol. That stuff can destroy the resale value of nice collectible bikes.
...and this comment is applicable to servicing vintage freewheels in what way?

All several of us have said, is that often (if not usually) a two-pin, hand-held, spanner will not provide enough grip in the two holes in the retaining ring/outer bearing race in order to remove it after 40-50 and even 60 years of being threaded in place. In such moments a hammer and punch are your only option.

I've serviced hundreds, if not more than a thousand freewheels, and if I remember correctly, I've ruined only one hole in one retaining ring.
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Old 04-20-22, 05:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by buddiiee
I hope you arent using channel locks on campy headsets.
No, just an adjustable wrench on the locknut.

I will use Channellock pliers on a Helicomatic lockring. Works great!
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Old 04-28-22, 12:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh


Even vintage "junk" freewheels have value for their spare parts, i.e. shims, pawls, springs, sprockets which are not worn, sprocket spacers, the outer bearing race, even the inner body. I've successfully transplanted inner bodies when the removal notches on the original were badly damaged.

This applies to everyone--- DO NOT THROW AWAY vintage freewheels.
y!
Binning a vintage POS always brings a smile to my face knowing that no one will ever be confronted with that trash again. Trash is trash and old trash is still trash.
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Old 04-28-22, 04:46 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Steel Charlie
Binning a vintage POS always brings a smile to my face knowing that no one will ever be confronted with that trash again. Trash is trash and old trash is still trash.
Whatever 🤪 floats your boat. Hopefully you never need to replace a bad shim, spring, or pawl, in an otherwise non-POS vintage freewheel.
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Old 04-28-22, 04:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Prowler
It’s not a good photo for re-creation, huh? No, I did not saw the hub. I milled the lumber to match the space between the hub flanges then drilled a hole thru a bit larger than the hub’s center diameter. Then saw the hub in two, place the hub in the “hole” and glue n screw it back together. IOW the NDS of the hub is on the other side of the wood block shown. You can’t see that. I drove a few nails thru the spoke holes to further secure the hub in the hole. In use the hub gets little rotational torque so it’s good enough. Clamp this block in the bench vice and screw the FW on.
Of course you meant that you “Then saw the block of lumber in two” right?
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Old 04-28-22, 07:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sovende
Of course you meant that you “Then saw the block of lumber in two” right?
AAAAAARGH yes. Thanks. Blunder in front of the whole world. Nice move.
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Old 04-29-22, 07:51 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Whatever 🤪 floats your boat. Hopefully you never need to replace a bad shim, spring, or pawl, in an otherwise non-POS vintage freewheel.
I don't really need to worry about that. My freewheel bikes all have DuraAce on them now. They replaced New Winners which are still in the drawer. Along with a few extra DA's that I expect to still be there when I'm dead. I haven't worried about a freewheel since about 1985.
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Old 04-29-22, 06:44 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Whatever 🤪 floats your boat. Hopefully you never need to replace a bad shim, spring, or pawl, in an otherwise non-POS vintage freewheel.
Some folks have no skills.... or curiosity,

Top
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Old 05-02-22, 12:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by top506
Some folks have no skills.... or curiosity,Top
In the late 70's I saw the inside of a number of FWs by necessity.. Curiosity had nothing to do with it. It's a simple mechanism and I pretty much knew what was in there long before I took one apart. I mean, pawls, ball bearings, shims - - BFD
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