Need Help Picking Replacement Wheel (long)
#26
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SF, going to have to disagree a bit with you. Most LBSes, IME, do not have skilled wheel builders. They rarely even have someone competent enough to fix an out of true wheel.
OP, at your weight, you should be fine on just about any rear wheel. You're not at the extreme end of weight. You should be able to purchase a Shimano or DT Swiss rear wheel for less than $200.
OP, at your weight, you should be fine on just about any rear wheel. You're not at the extreme end of weight. You should be able to purchase a Shimano or DT Swiss rear wheel for less than $200.
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#28
Mostly Harmless
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That is extremely helpful, Kimmo! I had assumed that the disc to rotor aligment would be different. Also I wasn't sure about rotor thickness and braking surface width.
If so that is especially good, because I am about due for new rotors anyway. Plus, based on what I see for sale, most disc brake road wheels are center lock.
So any 160mm rotor center lock wheel and rotor (for example Shimano 160mm) is compatible with my current 160mm TRP Spyre cable calipers?
If so that is especially good, because I am about due for new rotors anyway. Plus, based on what I see for sale, most disc brake road wheels are center lock.
So any 160mm rotor center lock wheel and rotor (for example Shimano 160mm) is compatible with my current 160mm TRP Spyre cable calipers?
#29
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I just went through the same process with my bike. Rear wheel cracks at the spokes. Looked all over the internet and just was not sure they would fit. I finally ordered a set through Hunt Wheels. I just sent them the year and model of my bike and they build to fit. Came with skewers and even adaptors to use my 6 bolt rotors on the center lock wheels. (I upgraded to center lock rotors anyways)
#30
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I missed the part about needing disc rotors in your first post. Sorry!
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#31
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SF, going to have to disagree a bit with you. Most LBSes, IME, do not have skilled wheel builders. They rarely even have someone competent enough to fix an out of true wheel.
OP, at your weight, you should be fine on just about any rear wheel. You're not at the extreme end of weight. You should be able to purchase a Shimano or DT Swiss rear wheel for less than $200.
OP, at your weight, you should be fine on just about any rear wheel. You're not at the extreme end of weight. You should be able to purchase a Shimano or DT Swiss rear wheel for less than $200.
#32
Mostly Harmless
Thread Starter
I hope your LBS has a good wheel builder. It's not terribly hard to build a wheel and most shops will do it for you. Anyway, the good thing about this route is you can talk to a human being about how and where you ride your bike, what you're trying to get out of your wheels, etc, and they'll be able to recommend a setup that will be a good match for you.
Centerlock is generally preferable, but it's not a big deal, they both work. The dropouts in your bike are going to limit the skewer you can use.
Centerlock is generally preferable, but it's not a big deal, they both work. The dropouts in your bike are going to limit the skewer you can use.
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Even still, talk to the mechanic at your LBS; even if you don't have confidence in their ability to build a wheel for you, they might have some insight into what a good wheel for your purposes would be like.
#34
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Or just post a thread in the mechanics subforum.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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If you'd like to try it yourself get a book called "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.
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Yeah, it's easier than you think. A rear wheel is a bit trickier, but the main thing is to know the half- dozen or so critical pointers, and then you can just use patience to make up for lack of experience.
In fact, I think its quite possible for someone building their first wheel to do a better job than an experienced builder, since you most likely won't be paying for more than an hour's work; he'll get it to 95% good and call that good enough, while you can keep tweaking away till it's 98% or better. Good idea to have some spare nipples on hand, though.
In fact, I think its quite possible for someone building their first wheel to do a better job than an experienced builder, since you most likely won't be paying for more than an hour's work; he'll get it to 95% good and call that good enough, while you can keep tweaking away till it's 98% or better. Good idea to have some spare nipples on hand, though.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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I like having nipples around.
#38
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https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-20...00c-95184.html
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#39
Mostly Harmless
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An overbuilt option (probably not too lightweight):
https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-20...00c-95184.html
https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-20...00c-95184.html
#40
Mostly Harmless
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Yeah, it's easier than you think. A rear wheel is a bit trickier, but the main thing is to know the half- dozen or so critical pointers, and then you can just use patience to make up for lack of experience.
In fact, I think its quite possible for someone building their first wheel to do a better job than an experienced builder, since you most likely won't be paying for more than an hour's work; he'll get it to 95% good and call that good enough, while you can keep tweaking away till it's 98% or better. Good idea to have some spare nipples on hand, though.
In fact, I think its quite possible for someone building their first wheel to do a better job than an experienced builder, since you most likely won't be paying for more than an hour's work; he'll get it to 95% good and call that good enough, while you can keep tweaking away till it's 98% or better. Good idea to have some spare nipples on hand, though.
Today there is YouTube and written forums, and decades of experience has improved my general DIY skills. But wheel building is a time sink that I don’t want to enter, at least not now.
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#41
Mostly Harmless
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I agree that there are people who build wheels who don't do a good job, I should know, but in my opinion a hand built wheel done by a good builder will be superior to a machine built (factory built) wheel in many cases. My best luck with wheels has always been hand built by local builders.
If you'd like to try it yourself get a book called "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.
If you'd like to try it yourself get a book called "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.
I’m going with the wheel builder option. A new DT Swiss R 460 rim with all new spokes mated to my current hub. I’m having it done at a small three person shop, but they have been around for a while. It is going to be approximately $55 for the rim, $55 for spokes, and $50 for labor.
The DT Swiss rim is warrantied for 2 years, but no actual warranty on the wheel build. Shop owner said “case by case basis”, which to me translates to zero.
Won’t be ready until Friday the 11th, they had to order the rim.
Another shop I tried came up with a nice Mavic rim paired with a Shimano hub and freewheel, for around $300. They didn’t do wheel builds. They had no warranty info, which I found off putting.
With the wheel build being half the price of a new rear wheel complete, it was a fairly easy decision.
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Okay, I finally made a decision today.
I’m going with the wheel builder option. A new DT Swiss R 460 rim with all new spokes mated to my current hub. I’m having it done at a small three person shop, but they have been around for a while. It is going to be approximately $55 for the rim, $55 for spokes, and $50 for labor.
The DT Swiss rim is warrantied for 2 years, but no actual warranty on the wheel build. Shop owner said “case by case basis”, which to me translates to zero.
Won’t be ready until Friday the 11th, they had to order the rim.
Another shop I tried came up with a nice Mavic rim paired with a Shimano hub and freewheel, for around $300. They didn’t do wheel builds. They had no warranty info, which I found off putting.
With the wheel build being half the price of a new rear wheel complete, it was a fairly easy decision.
I’m going with the wheel builder option. A new DT Swiss R 460 rim with all new spokes mated to my current hub. I’m having it done at a small three person shop, but they have been around for a while. It is going to be approximately $55 for the rim, $55 for spokes, and $50 for labor.
The DT Swiss rim is warrantied for 2 years, but no actual warranty on the wheel build. Shop owner said “case by case basis”, which to me translates to zero.
Won’t be ready until Friday the 11th, they had to order the rim.
Another shop I tried came up with a nice Mavic rim paired with a Shimano hub and freewheel, for around $300. They didn’t do wheel builds. They had no warranty info, which I found off putting.
With the wheel build being half the price of a new rear wheel complete, it was a fairly easy decision.