how to plug unused braze-on holes
09-28-21, 05:49 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 394
Bikes: 2016 Masi strada vita due, 2019 Kona Dew Plus
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 265 Post(s)
Liked 80 Times
in
55 Posts
how to plug unused braze-on holes
Those little threaded holes in the frame so you can mount water bottle cage, pump, etc.
You can use short screws, plastic screws or leave them open.
Any other better ideas?
You can use short screws, plastic screws or leave them open.
Any other better ideas?
09-28-21, 06:03 PM
#2
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,136
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10496 Post(s)
Liked 6,936 Times
in
3,914 Posts
I can't think of a better way to plug the holes than to use m5 bolts that were made to go into the holes.
Buy stainless steel bolts that have a buttonhead. They are a lower profile to eliminate snags/scraps and they won't rust.
Buy stainless steel bolts that have a buttonhead. They are a lower profile to eliminate snags/scraps and they won't rust.
Likes For mstateglfr:
09-28-21, 06:09 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 38,090
Mentioned: 209 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17728 Post(s)
Liked 14,037 Times
in
6,667 Posts
Attach racks and/or fenders?
Likes For indyfabz:
09-28-21, 07:34 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1957 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
I always use plastic screws for the bottle cage bolt holes on my cx bikes. Discrete and they won't get stuck.
Likes For cxwrench:
09-28-21, 07:54 PM
#5
Senior Member
Stainless steel hex-head screws and grease the threads.
Likes For drlogik:
09-28-21, 08:15 PM
#6
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,269 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Anodized bolts to match or complement the frame color.
Last edited by Rolla; 09-28-21 at 08:20 PM.
Likes For Rolla:
09-29-21, 07:45 AM
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,149
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5838 Post(s)
Liked 4,458 Times
in
3,074 Posts
I can't imagine that you aren't using them. But sure put a screw in them. Plastic, stainless, zinc plated or any other coating that resists rust and corrosion. Cheap stainless might corrode as easy as steel if the threads get wet and stay wet, so put a little anti-seize or lube on whatever you use.
If you want to be quirky, get some sealing wax and put a blob on it with your signet stamped on it.
If you want to be quirky, get some sealing wax and put a blob on it with your signet stamped on it.
Likes For gringomojado:
09-29-21, 07:29 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,618
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4089 Post(s)
Liked 2,370 Times
in
1,237 Posts
Weld them.
09-29-21, 10:37 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,515
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1840 Post(s)
Liked 2,003 Times
in
1,227 Posts
09-30-21, 05:32 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,656
Bikes: '38 Schwinn New World, ’69 Peugeot PX-10, '72 Peugeot PX-10, ‘7? Valgan, ’79 Holdsworth Pro, ’80 Peugeot TH-8 tandem, '87 Trek 400T, ‘7? Raleigh Sports, ‘7? Raleigh Superbe, ‘6? Hercules
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 690 Post(s)
Liked 1,401 Times
in
678 Posts
Stainless hex button-head cap screws. Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace Hardware have an aisle with lots of drawers with various screws/washers/odds-&-ends where you'll find them. 5mm with .8 thread are what most are I think. If you think you may someday mount a bottle cage/fender/whatever, get ones that are long enough- if not, get the shortest and save the .001 gr of weight...
09-30-21, 09:38 AM
#13
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,006
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,539 Times
in
805 Posts
What is wrong with you fellows? Titanium weighs less than steel. FTW
09-30-21, 10:08 AM
#14
Senior Member
I assume that by hex-head you mean a set screw.
Like one of these only a little shorter:
Last edited by drlogik; 09-30-21 at 10:13 AM.
Likes For drlogik:
09-30-21, 10:55 AM
#15
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,577
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3856 Post(s)
Liked 2,526 Times
in
1,555 Posts
Likes For ThermionicScott:
09-30-21, 05:42 PM
#16
Newbie
I admit to wanting a set of Velo Orange 'punk bolts' to plug the ones on my front fork- they are spike decorative M5s. Everything else gets a water bottle cage though. Cant have too many in Texas.
Likes For mikedk13:
Likes For Bald Paul:
10-02-21, 10:01 AM
#19
ಠ_ಠ
Galvanic corrosion between aluminum and stainless is a well-documented problem, so don't use a stainless fastener in an aluminum frame/rivnut. Titanium is also sub optimal for the same reason, although not as bad as stainless. Anodizing Ti is for appearance only and does not help with corrosion. The oxide layer is at most about 0.2 micron thick. Anodized aluminum with greased threads, a plastic washer, and low tension would be my choice. Chrome-plated steel for a steel frame.
Other options would be a 5mm rubber hole plug, some colored electrical tape, or decal material over the holes.
It also weighs about 30% more than aluminum. Steel > titanium > aluminum > plastic > tape > nothing.
Other options would be a 5mm rubber hole plug, some colored electrical tape, or decal material over the holes.
It also weighs about 30% more than aluminum. Steel > titanium > aluminum > plastic > tape > nothing.
10-02-21, 10:13 AM
#20
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,577
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3856 Post(s)
Liked 2,526 Times
in
1,555 Posts
Even if 10-32 weren't almost exactly the same threading as M5x0.8, the soft nylon would safely deform as needed to plug the holes.
10-02-21, 12:05 PM
#21
ಠ_ಠ
Perhaps, but if someone doesn't have either size on hand, they might as well buy the right one.
Likes For Dirty Dude:
Likes For CrimsonEclipse:
10-03-21, 01:56 AM
#24
Newbie
nylon M5x0.8mm are easy to get.
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-screw...d-type~socket/
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-screw...d-type~socket/
Likes For son_of_clyde:
10-03-21, 06:08 AM
#25
2-Wheeled Fool
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,486
Bikes: Surly Ogre, Brompton
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1385 Post(s)
Liked 675 Times
in
456 Posts
This is precisely what I do, but I use stainless steel button-head hex screws and coat the threads with beeswax. I searched forever to find some suitable 5mm screws made from BLACK nylon, but could only find them in the color white, which looked kind of weird. The other problem with the white nylon screws were that they were a very tight fit in the threads. I broke one as I was unscrewing it and I barely got it out. I ran one through a 5mmx.08 threading die, and that cleaned it up and was then able to thread it in nicely. I didn't use them though. The white screws just looked like crap.
So I now use the button-head hex screw in the shortest I can find, which is 8mm in length. I also get them in the Torx version, which guarantees that I'll get the screws out comfortably, and since they wont be holding anything onto the frame, I don't need to reef down on them to get them to stay tight. I used to do a lot of leatherworking along with knifemaking, and while I was into that, I discovered the many uses and applications for beeswax. I fell in love with it. Essentially its a nice, pliable, non-hardening thread sealant, that also acts like a low-strength threadlocker.
So I now use the button-head hex screw in the shortest I can find, which is 8mm in length. I also get them in the Torx version, which guarantees that I'll get the screws out comfortably, and since they wont be holding anything onto the frame, I don't need to reef down on them to get them to stay tight. I used to do a lot of leatherworking along with knifemaking, and while I was into that, I discovered the many uses and applications for beeswax. I fell in love with it. Essentially its a nice, pliable, non-hardening thread sealant, that also acts like a low-strength threadlocker.
Likes For J.Higgins:
