Old Otero bottom bracket cup issue
10-29-22, 12:36 PM
#1
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Old Otero bottom bracket cup issue
I'm playing around with a 1970's Otero road bike. I was able to get the left side bottom bracket cone off along with the axle and cranks. I'm now trying to remove the drive side cone. I've put some force on a large wrench first in a clockwise direction. Doesn't seem to budge at all, so I'm if any of y'all know if these bottom brackets are left-hand thread at the drive side. It is probably rusted as I have never seen so much dirt and gunk in a bottom bracket. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
10-29-22, 12:53 PM
#2
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boy is that ever nice!
just look at the beautiful Verot 63!
cycle constructed to metric ("french") standard
drive side bottom bracket cup should come off by turning counterclockwise
Verot fixed cups are coded to indicate thread
a fixed cup with one ring and eight sides is metric threaded
a cup with two rings and eight sides is BSC/ISO/"english" threaded
a cup with no rings and eight sides is CH threaded
a cup with two flats and one ring is Italian threaded
would expect a pillar size of 26.6mm
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dating:
cycle appears pre-1967
estimate a date ca. 1965
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you've really got something there
suggest to work with it slowly & carefully
-----
boy is that ever nice!
just look at the beautiful Verot 63!
cycle constructed to metric ("french") standard
drive side bottom bracket cup should come off by turning counterclockwise
Verot fixed cups are coded to indicate thread
a fixed cup with one ring and eight sides is metric threaded
a cup with two rings and eight sides is BSC/ISO/"english" threaded
a cup with no rings and eight sides is CH threaded
a cup with two flats and one ring is Italian threaded
would expect a pillar size of 26.6mm
---
dating:
cycle appears pre-1967
estimate a date ca. 1965
---
you've really got something there
suggest to work with it slowly & carefully
-----
Last edited by juvela; 10-29-22 at 01:05 PM. Reason: addition
10-29-22, 01:19 PM
#3
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A “fixed cup” aka the right/drive side cup is called the fixed cup for a reason. Since the BB indexes off that cup, indexed is the right term isn’t it, anyway they are generally torqued pretty tight at the factory and if that has been on there since new it’s gonna be tough to remove.
Unless you have a few special tools this may be a job to get help from the LBS.
put you location in your profile, there might be a C&Ver just around the corner who’ll pop that out for a few Teddy Porters.
Unless you have a few special tools this may be a job to get help from the LBS.
put you location in your profile, there might be a C&Ver just around the corner who’ll pop that out for a few Teddy Porters.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
10-29-22, 03:57 PM
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10-30-22, 06:55 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Thanks! Your response made my day. Yes, I'm taking my time and enjoying learning about this bike. So many parts that are new to me.
10-30-22, 07:52 PM
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The fork blades can be straightened and that bike is definitely worth it!
If the fork does not bind up when turned either left or right the fork steerer tube is probably not also bent, but a good idea to remove the fork from the frame and make sure.
A competent frame builder or an old school mechanic with an alignment table or fork alignment gauge can straighten the blades. If you let us know your location we may be able to recommend someone for this task.
Brent
If the fork does not bind up when turned either left or right the fork steerer tube is probably not also bent, but a good idea to remove the fork from the frame and make sure.
A competent frame builder or an old school mechanic with an alignment table or fork alignment gauge can straighten the blades. If you let us know your location we may be able to recommend someone for this task.
Brent
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