Which Velocal type do I need?
11-30-22, 09:54 PM
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Which Velocal type do I need?
Once again bikeforums has been super helpful but this time with disappointing news that Velocals will be no longer be producing bike decals. Good to know so we can get our orders in.
But which type do you guys recommend? I was going to order the standard 2 mil type but they have UV laminates in either high gloss, low gloss and matt. The one I need is for Columbus Spirit tubing which promptly disintegrated on a NOS frame. They claim that the UV treatment will make the decal last twice as long.
But which type do you guys recommend? I was going to order the standard 2 mil type but they have UV laminates in either high gloss, low gloss and matt. The one I need is for Columbus Spirit tubing which promptly disintegrated on a NOS frame. They claim that the UV treatment will make the decal last twice as long.
Last edited by Biketiger; 11-30-22 at 10:00 PM.
12-01-22, 12:07 AM
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It comes down to your intentions. The uncovered ones are for full restoration assuming you are going to clear coat on top of your decals.
frankly, I love the look of patina, new decals and a clear coat to stop any further rust.
frankly, I love the look of patina, new decals and a clear coat to stop any further rust.
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Last edited by Robvolz; 12-01-22 at 09:39 AM.
12-01-22, 09:26 AM
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Good question. I plan to remove the remains of the existing decal and place a new one in its place. It will not be under a clear coat.
Should I therefore splurge on the UV coating?
Should I therefore splurge on the UV coating?
12-01-22, 01:42 PM
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Biketiger-
Yes, since there will be no clear coat, get the UV resistant ones.
Yes, since there will be no clear coat, get the UV resistant ones.
12-01-22, 01:47 PM
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Got it - thanks for the advice!
12-01-22, 01:57 PM
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I recommend the 1 mil (which I haven't used) or the 0.5 mil. I used 2 mil on a Centurion-Cinelli refurbishment and the 2 mil decals looked like blocks of plastic glued to the frame. Never again!
Note the edges of the 2 mil decals. The only decals (in my opinion) which look factory correct are the 0.5 mil waterslide decals.
Note the edges of the 2 mil decals. The only decals (in my opinion) which look factory correct are the 0.5 mil waterslide decals.
12-01-22, 02:11 PM
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I've done the 2 mil adhesive decals a lot with them. Just did the 1 mil for my latest bike. There is still an edge, but either thickness applies well. For either, I'd go with a glossy finish as it matches the glossy paint of most lugged bikes unless you want the matte look. Waterslide would be good, especially for running clear coat over. I am ignorant as to a waterslide's durability without a clear coat, so feel free to educate me on that given your experience (those of you who have done so)
12-01-22, 02:30 PM
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In my case, the Columbus Spirit is a large decal at the bottom of the seat tube so I am not too concerned about the edges as much as longevity. Since Velocals claims the laminated ones last twice as long and I will be applying over a clear coat that's what I'll do.
12-02-22, 01:37 PM
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I recommend the 1 mil (which I haven't used) or the 0.5 mil. I used 2 mil on a Centurion-Cinelli refurbishment and the 2 mil decals looked like blocks of plastic glued to the frame. Never again!
Note the edges of the 2 mil decals. The only decals (in my opinion) which look factory correct are the 0.5 mil waterslide decals.
Note the edges of the 2 mil decals. The only decals (in my opinion) which look factory correct are the 0.5 mil waterslide decals.
12-02-22, 11:05 PM
#10
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I'm not a bike painter, nor am I significantly inclined to do a lot of touch up painting on an old frameset with lots of wear and tear. I don't hesitate to get a bike repainted if I'm going to ride it any significant amount.
That said, my opinion about decals is:
For a bike which will not get repainted, I'd use the 1.0 mil decals. For a bike which will be repainted, I'd trust the painter (do your investigative homework) but I'd prefer the 0.5 mil decals be used along with several clear coats and sanding of the clear coat over the decals to level things out overall.
BTW: A thicker decal = more clear coats to camouflage the decal = more hand work = more expensive.
And, here's the 2001 Joe Bell interview with Rivendell. It's well worth the read: https://joebell.net/JB-interview-RR.html
That said, my opinion about decals is:
For a bike which will not get repainted, I'd use the 1.0 mil decals. For a bike which will be repainted, I'd trust the painter (do your investigative homework) but I'd prefer the 0.5 mil decals be used along with several clear coats and sanding of the clear coat over the decals to level things out overall.
BTW: A thicker decal = more clear coats to camouflage the decal = more hand work = more expensive.
And, here's the 2001 Joe Bell interview with Rivendell. It's well worth the read: https://joebell.net/JB-interview-RR.html
