Fed up. How to measure axles accurately?
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Fed up. How to measure axles accurately?
What methods do you use to accurately measure width of axles on wheelsets?
Ideally, an automotive brake disc caliper that's big enough to go right over discs and spoke guards, but every one I have seen don't have long enough jaws.
Perhaps a makeshift one from pipe clamps?
Ideally, an automotive brake disc caliper that's big enough to go right over discs and spoke guards, but every one I have seen don't have long enough jaws.
Perhaps a makeshift one from pipe clamps?
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I have a set of these. I don’t use them often but they come in handy for built up wheels. I wouldn’t try to measure with the cassette or a disc in place, however.
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Lay the wheel horizontally on a flat surface, place a level on the top end of the axle, then use a ruler to measure the distance between the surface and the level. Just a suggestion.
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I use 2 pieces of flat stock with a hole drilled in each. Place the holes over & around the axle and secure in place with an axle nut or QR skewer as appropriate. Measure distance between the inner surfaces of the flat stock.
Super precision isn't necessary if your goal is determining 110 from 120 from 126 from 130, from 135, etc...Axle widths tend to be of discreet pre-defined values.
Super precision isn't necessary if your goal is determining 110 from 120 from 126 from 130, from 135, etc...Axle widths tend to be of discreet pre-defined values.
Last edited by base2; 12-11-22 at 11:26 AM.
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With the wheel off just shove your QR in the axel with the nut and springs off and mark how far it goes from one end of the axle to the other and measure. Easy to get within 1mm of accuracy.
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#7
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Don't you have a bike with a known width drop out width?
If the OLD of the wheel is <=, the difference is easy to eyeball.
If the OLD of the wheel is <=, the difference is easy to eyeball.
#8
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OP: that depends on precisely what you mean by "width of axles".
If you're talking about the actual length, end-to-end, of the wheel's axle, the method Crankycrank suggests is IMO good. If you need more precision than +/- 1mm, you'll either need a set of long-reach calipers or to pull the axle out of the hub and measure it with a set of short-reach calipers/.
If you're talking about the rear dropout width - AKA "over locknut distance/dimension", or OLD - the method Bill Kapaun suggests is probably the easiest if all you need is +/- 1mm accuracy. If you need more accuracy than that, I'd guess you'll need a set of long reach calipers for that as well.
If you're talking about the actual length, end-to-end, of the wheel's axle, the method Crankycrank suggests is IMO good. If you need more precision than +/- 1mm, you'll either need a set of long-reach calipers or to pull the axle out of the hub and measure it with a set of short-reach calipers/.
If you're talking about the rear dropout width - AKA "over locknut distance/dimension", or OLD - the method Bill Kapaun suggests is probably the easiest if all you need is +/- 1mm accuracy. If you need more accuracy than that, I'd guess you'll need a set of long reach calipers for that as well.
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I've got some of those too. And have used them to measure OLD too. Also some inside measuring calipers of similar vintage that I've measured drop out spacing with.
Oh... Since you showed us yours, I'll show you mine.... <grin>
Do you know who made it? Or whether is originally for auto wheels of that day and age? I never thought to ask my Dad about it while he was alive. So I only just barely know what it is for.
Oh... Since you showed us yours, I'll show you mine.... <grin>
Do you know who made it? Or whether is originally for auto wheels of that day and age? I never thought to ask my Dad about it while he was alive. So I only just barely know what it is for.
Last edited by Iride01; 12-11-22 at 01:23 PM.
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as to the last questions, I do not know. Dad’s gone and I cant ask him. He traded at Phillips 66 mostly and I remember vaguely, a bicycle patch kit from them. A cardboard tube/tin lid with patches/glue. Not sure if this would have been part of that or not.
Last edited by streetsurfer; 12-11-22 at 01:26 PM.
#11
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Or if you have a truing stand, insert wheel, VERY LIGHTLY clamp, remove wheel and measure between the arms.
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I order take out shish kabob (or anticuchos if there is a good Peruvian place near by) have lunch, burp loudly, stick one of the bamboo sticks in the axle, clip it flush with diagonal cutters (channel lock) and measure with Park spoke ruler...
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Hey, thanks for sharing! I’ve not seen another until now. I wish there were a branding mark on them.
as to the last questions, I do not know. Dad’s gone and I cant ask him. He traded at Phillips 66 mostly and I remember vaguely, a bicycle patch kit from them. A cardboard tube/tin lid with patches/glue. Not sure if this would have been part of that or not.
as to the last questions, I do not know. Dad’s gone and I cant ask him. He traded at Phillips 66 mostly and I remember vaguely, a bicycle patch kit from them. A cardboard tube/tin lid with patches/glue. Not sure if this would have been part of that or not.
Certainly I'm not putting this out as a precision tool of the day. I'm thinking they were probably the cheapo thing of that period.
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I use the caliper that came with my Park dropout alignment tools.
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Lots of good options here, and the best probably depends on how often, and how much dough you're willing to part with.
If this going to be a regular thing you can make a sale and easy to use gauge for pocket change.
Start with an old or surplus QR skewer, knitting needle, 10mm longer than the widest hub you expect to see.
Measure and mark off intervals of 131, 137, 141mm, etc. allowing 11mm for the difference between axle length and OLD.
Make the marks permanent with nail polish or whatever, and you have a quick and reliable gauge.
If you want to be fancy fit a key ring to one end so you can hang it up.
If this going to be a regular thing you can make a sale and easy to use gauge for pocket change.
Start with an old or surplus QR skewer, knitting needle, 10mm longer than the widest hub you expect to see.
Measure and mark off intervals of 131, 137, 141mm, etc. allowing 11mm for the difference between axle length and OLD.
Make the marks permanent with nail polish or whatever, and you have a quick and reliable gauge.
If you want to be fancy fit a key ring to one end so you can hang it up.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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I have calipers with close enough length jaws, so I usually go that route. They do make caliper tips that can act as extenders for those curious. It would not be difficult to rig an simpler equivalent with tape.
If I'm trying to make a point to an engineer, granite table, height stand, gage blocks.
More practically, stick something through the axle and measure that (minus axle distance past the locknuts).
Good fit in the bike, measure the inside of the frame.
Low flange hub and not cassette? Sometimes normal reach calipers will do.
None of these an option and you're changing the bearings anyways? Note the position installed and measure it out of the bike.
My spring calipers aren't large enough, but that works as well if you have a set. Not hard to make a pair out of some scrap cardboard, a pin, and some tape if you're feeling skilled with your hands that day.
https://www.mcmaster.com/caliper-tips/
If I'm trying to make a point to an engineer, granite table, height stand, gage blocks.
More practically, stick something through the axle and measure that (minus axle distance past the locknuts).
Good fit in the bike, measure the inside of the frame.
Low flange hub and not cassette? Sometimes normal reach calipers will do.
None of these an option and you're changing the bearings anyways? Note the position installed and measure it out of the bike.
My spring calipers aren't large enough, but that works as well if you have a set. Not hard to make a pair out of some scrap cardboard, a pin, and some tape if you're feeling skilled with your hands that day.
https://www.mcmaster.com/caliper-tips/