cocoabeachcrab 

pre war western flyer. managed to get a rear disk brake on there so i can stop this boat anchor in time to avert splatting into whatever is a few miles in front of me. the wheels are surprisingly light, and after ditching the 5 pounds of original saddle and the 7lbs lbs of skip tooth crankset, it doesn't feel too bad!

mechanicmatt

...and on the bike. More work ahead.

scarlson 

TIG-fixed some MKS aluminum toe clips. OK not quite as fancy as these guys who can weld beer cans, but hey. It'll look great under one of those leather toe clip wraps, right?

thumpism 

Doing some halfhearted repair on this little foundling before passing it on to someone. It's a Schwinn Wayfarer saved from the county transfer station by a buddy. Dribbled lube into all the bearings, tweaked the rear derailleur, touched up the wheels (rear needed only a slight re-dish), still needs cables for brakes and shifter.

BTinNYC 

I remember my shop in the kitchen.

New jazz from London: Nala Sinephro

oktober 

I'm getting back into bikes after a 10 year hiatus, luckily I still have most of my bikes and stuff from back then, but they are all projects now in one way or another. Some just need a tune up, some need a lot more help. I did a checkout and minor tune to my Bruce Gordon Taiwanese BLT and have started logging the first (slow) miles on it. With one bike up and running, I've got other bigger projects to do such as getting a dedicated shop space setup. My garage is too crammed with other projects and stuff, so I'm thinking of setting up in a shed in my back yard, but it has no lights or electricity. That makes it tough in the winter months when it gets dark at 5:30. A lot of time this week has been digging through and sorting my old collection of bike parts and figuring out what I need to still source for my upcoming projects. I'm super stoked to be riding & wrenching again. I can't believe I stopped for so long. This thread has been a massive inspiration to me.

Dylansbob 

Finally spent enough time on the new 990. Replaced the original DS2 fork with a rigid i've had in my stash. It's marked "The Omni", I pulled it from a Norco Sasquatch. It's always nice when old shimano shifters come back to life. You spray and spray and start thinking, maybe just maybe there's actually something broken inside. Then you come out the next day and find clicks were there weren't before.

I thought I had an AT4 in my stash, but could only find the bridge. For now, an AT3 will work.

daverup 

1978 or 1979 Raleigh Grand Prix Mixte. Headset and Bottom Bracket are in good shape. A few touch-ups needed.

PugRider

No pics, so why even bother, but on a whim yesterday I rebuilt a freewheel for the first time--modern 7-speed Shimano. I'll usually try anything with bike repair, but I had always been intimidated by opening up a freewheel. It really wasn't bad. I did feel kinda lucky that I was able to keep track of every ball bearing.

non-fixie 

My current project requires a 25.4 mm seatpost and I didn't have any nice ones, at least none that were micro-adjustable. I did have a heavily abused and gauged SR in what probably once was 26.0 mm.

So I decided to kill two birds with one file, and spent the better part of a day and a small fortune in sandpaper rolls getting the seatpost smooth and down to the required diameter. Now I have one nice seatpost and two very sore hands.

non-fixie 

Right.

thumpism 

I have stuff turned at a machine shop a couple of miles from home, generally about ten bucks for something like this. Worth investigating.

non-fixie 

Definitely.

But lots of 'easy-peasy' posts about sanding down seatposts and stems made me want to try this. Well, it is not difficult. Just a lot of work.

oktober 

The bike shed has been established, if not fully set up and organized. There’s a lot of little stuff to do, but the proof of concept is a success. I still need to rig some lights and organize tools and parts, but I’m very pleased.





My daughters 650B conversion that she never bonded with. I’m going to play around with the wheel set and see what else I can make it work with.

jdawginsc 

My hands don't like significant sand-downs. That's why my polishing pictures show a bit of impatience...

non-fixie 

The aforementioned seatpost is now on the bike and it fits nicely. The Robust is pretty much finished. Shakedown ride pics tomorrow, weather permitting.

jdawginsc 

I love the art wall for displaying and photographing your bikes...very retro vibe!

merziac

If you get creative, you can use threaded rod, washers, two short pieces of tubing cut at an angle on one end like a stem wedge and locknuts to fab an internal arbor of sorts to chuck in a drill, go at it with pretty aggressive sand paper, emery cloth strips or file if you have a drill press and make much shorter work of it.

The closer the internal fit, the less wobble it will have.

merziac

I think those were mostly the taking off a couple thousands to make them fit the next size down scenario.

mrv 

I can’t anyone to buy my Trek420, so I got that Arabesque group to rebuild it as a speedy flat bar café racer.
I’m trying to touch up the paint with some Testors arctic blue metallic. I’ve usually just did it quick like with minimal care.
This time Im attempting to do out better.
Looks like I still kinda suck.

eom 

It's just fine.
You will be going so fast the pack behind you will never notice any flaws.

2cam16

5-foot test: It looks perfect.

jamesdak 

This afternoon I started tearing down the KHS I got the other day. Everything going well until I went to yank off the square taper crank. I'm a fan of light grease on the spindle before mounting a crank for the reason I have right now. That puppy is on there. Letting it soak some more right now before I break out the pipe extension.

Drive side threads seem to be messed up so that one may take a move agressive 3 jaw puller attack if I can't get the crank tool in.

Update:
None drive side off. drive side is really pissing me off. I hate how people can't just take there time and do things right. Some heavy-handed fool in the past totally trashed the threads so now I'm just plan stuck. Not worried about damaging the crank but can't get puller jaws to stay on this one. Probably going to another fight to get this off and all because someone just didn't pay attention when working on this before.

mrv 

that’s usually how it goes.
i find it works best if I ride with slow people though. Like they say, if you want to look thin, stand next to fat people.

Eric F 

New (used) FSA carbon cranks and Truvativ ISIS bottom bracket with new Wolf Tooth NW chainring for the ‘99 Trek 9900 1-speed automatic.