Any Recommendation on a headset press?
04-04-17, 10:49 AM
#26
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I think I got the nashbar one on a sale for at most half of what they're going for now. At >$40 it was worth it to not have to find time to get the bike in the car and get to the shop when it was open and then pay them to do it even if I've only used it 3-4 times since buying it a number of years back.
04-04-17, 10:55 AM
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Be careful about pressing the cups with homemade press or generic press.
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
04-04-17, 10:57 AM
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What's this fascination with 1/2" rod? Go 3/4". It cost barely more, the washers are very sturdy and the acorn nuts are bigger than the headset races so they work beautifully to center the press. (Yes, 1/2' is lighter and better for hill climbing, but really, do you carry it in your tool bag?)
Edit: 3/4" and the acorn nuts was the word from Dean at Bike Central, Portland's fix gear wizard. (Fix gear as in velodrome, team DS and coach and frequently the mechanic at major events at Alpenrose.)
Ben
Edit: 3/4" and the acorn nuts was the word from Dean at Bike Central, Portland's fix gear wizard. (Fix gear as in velodrome, team DS and coach and frequently the mechanic at major events at Alpenrose.)
Ben
04-04-17, 11:01 AM
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Be careful about pressing the cups with homemade press or generic press.
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
04-04-17, 11:45 AM
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I'm glad I'm not the only one who finds the price tag offensive.
I love good tools and will always buy a high quality tool before trying to save a buck on a cheap one that will break or malfunction prematurely. But $72.00 for $3.00 worth of metal and plastic? Just rubs me the wrong way.
Really???....
I love good tools and will always buy a high quality tool before trying to save a buck on a cheap one that will break or malfunction prematurely. But $72.00 for $3.00 worth of metal and plastic? Just rubs me the wrong way.
Really???....
04-04-17, 11:58 AM
#31
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Be careful about pressing the cups with homemade press or generic press.
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
2. $140.00 is silly for a headset.
3.
04-04-17, 04:51 PM
#32
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That's what I have for my homemade cup press. I use big washers that press on the cup's edges and completely avoid the bearing cartridges I cut leather disks for their inside faces to keep from marring the cup edges, like using padded jaws in a vise.
04-04-17, 06:43 PM
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I needed to install a headset so I purchased the Park HHHP-2. I have used it twice but you never know what the future my hold. I like having nice bicycle repair tools so it works for me.
04-04-17, 07:02 PM
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I use a couple of big sockets that fit down inside the cup to push on the base, with a threaded rod. Just happens that my socket tops have a rubber ring that is a neat fit inside the spigot of the cups, so they are fairly well self centering.
Incidentally, if you want the HD version of a fender washer, go to a car suspension shop and ask for some old shock absorber washers, they usually have a box of spares in a huge range of diameters. Some of the truck ones are 3" in diameter. Very thick and usually some kind of case hardened steel.
Incidentally, if you want the HD version of a fender washer, go to a car suspension shop and ask for some old shock absorber washers, they usually have a box of spares in a huge range of diameters. Some of the truck ones are 3" in diameter. Very thick and usually some kind of case hardened steel.
04-04-17, 08:05 PM
#36
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Not in the size you need for pressing in a headset. If you use 1/2" all thread, the washer you need is quite thick. The force needed to press in the headset isn't that great either. If you have to apply enough force to bend a fender washer for a 1/2" bolt, you are probably doing something wrong. Finally, 1/2" fender washers are cheap enough to be a one time use item anyway. In other words, it doesn't matter if they bend.
04-04-17, 08:48 PM
#37
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Some misinformation in this thread.
For external cup (EC) headsets the correct way to press the cups is not to press against the outside or top of the cup. I know many people do it that way and have success but no manufacturer recommends it and all of the big manufacturers specifically recommend against it.
The claim that one should not press against the inside of the cup where the bearing sits simply isn't correct. In some cases you need to press against the outer bearing race itself. Pressing against the bearing race or inside of the cup with a proper drift is the way every single manufacturer recommends it be done.
The video below shows this at 1:22.
We can talk about washers and threaded rods and whether it works or not but we need to be honest about the way manufacturers themselves recommend that it be done. Pressing on the top of the cup with a flat surface is not what manufacturer's recommend.
-Tim-
For external cup (EC) headsets the correct way to press the cups is not to press against the outside or top of the cup. I know many people do it that way and have success but no manufacturer recommends it and all of the big manufacturers specifically recommend against it.
The claim that one should not press against the inside of the cup where the bearing sits simply isn't correct. In some cases you need to press against the outer bearing race itself. Pressing against the bearing race or inside of the cup with a proper drift is the way every single manufacturer recommends it be done.
The video below shows this at 1:22.
We can talk about washers and threaded rods and whether it works or not but we need to be honest about the way manufacturers themselves recommend that it be done. Pressing on the top of the cup with a flat surface is not what manufacturer's recommend.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 04-04-17 at 08:56 PM.
04-04-17, 08:54 PM
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What's this fascination with 1/2" rod? Go 3/4". It cost barely more, the washers are very sturdy and the acorn nuts are bigger than the headset races so they work beautifully to center the press. (Yes, 1/2' is lighter and better for hill climbing, but really, do you carry it in your tool bag?)
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04-04-17, 09:01 PM
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One place where threaded rod wins out over an actual press is on very tall bikes. I have the nashbar press that works well 90% of the time. The thing is, I ride 63-65 cm classic steel frames (for the most part) and have really tall head tubes. Sometimes, the press isn't long enough to get seated to start pressing until the headset is already partially into the head tube. That can get tricky sometimes without something longer. Generally, I set the fitting into the headset, make sure the headset is square with the headtube and gently, carefully tap the fitting with a deadblow mallet until it's in far enough that the two parts of the press can reach each other. Probably not an issue that most people have.
04-04-17, 09:03 PM
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Be careful about pressing the cups with homemade press or generic press.
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
Flat washers can press on the edges of the bearing races. This is acceptable to some people but I didn't want to risk damaging the races when I pressed a $140 Cane Creek 110 headset. I bought the drifts which fit the bearing races from Cane Creek and avoided the possibility of damaging the parts.
As someone else said, the Nasbar press can be had for <$40.
-Tim-
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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04-04-17, 10:10 PM
#41
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With a homemade press I find that putting in one cup at a time makes keeping it square much easier.
04-05-17, 05:23 AM
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04-05-17, 07:05 AM
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Not according to Park
They do say to press only one cup at a time for cartridge bearing headset, however. They also say not to use the stepped bushing and, instead, push on the cups with the press plates of the tool.
- Place upper headset cup on top of head tube. Hold one cup guide onto top threaded press plate and lower assembly through top headset cup.
- Install second cup guide onto sliding press plate, and place lower cup onto guide.
- Engage sliding press plate onto hex shaft, and push plate upward until headset cup meets head tube. Release lever. Sliding press plate lever must be engaged in one of seven hex shaft notches. Pull downward on lower press plate to test engagement.
- Turn handle clockwise slowly and inspect alignment of cups as cups enter head tube. Continue and press cups fully into head tube
Do not use cup guides #530-2 if guides press on any preinstalled cup-bearing unit (ex. Chris King® headsets). For headsets not fitting #530-2 cup guides, simply press using threaded press plate and sliding press plate. Pressure on the outer rim of aluminum head cups may visually scar the cups. If not using the guides, it can help to press one cup at at time.
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04-05-17, 07:07 AM
#45
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+1 I've installed a couple of CK headsets using my oversized padded washers after finding out that's exactly how the manufacturer recommends. I've used the same technique successfully on Cane Creek, Velo Orange and FSA headsets also. Never had any damage to any of them.
04-05-17, 08:50 AM
#46
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Headset update
Hello all,
I am looking at various headset presses and I would appreciate your feedback on what you like or dislike about them. Does anyone use the Wheels Manufacturing presses for both headsets and bottom brackets? Is the Parktool good? Are there other brands I should consider? I am okay with home mechanic quality, however, I would prefer a professional tool.
Kind regards,
OshkoshBiker
I am looking at various headset presses and I would appreciate your feedback on what you like or dislike about them. Does anyone use the Wheels Manufacturing presses for both headsets and bottom brackets? Is the Parktool good? Are there other brands I should consider? I am okay with home mechanic quality, however, I would prefer a professional tool.
Kind regards,
OshkoshBiker
04-05-17, 11:10 AM
#47
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Some misinformation in this thread.
For external cup (EC) headsets the correct way to press the cups is not to press against the outside or top of the cup.
We can talk about washers and threaded rods and whether it works or not but we need to be honest about the way manufacturers themselves recommend that it be done. Pressing on the top of the cup with a flat surface is not what manufacturer's recommend.
For external cup (EC) headsets the correct way to press the cups is not to press against the outside or top of the cup.
We can talk about washers and threaded rods and whether it works or not but we need to be honest about the way manufacturers themselves recommend that it be done. Pressing on the top of the cup with a flat surface is not what manufacturer's recommend.
Park tool videos show the tool pressing against the cup OD for an EC headset. Park's HHP-3 is designed to press the outer cup surface.
Drifts "might" be a necessary evil for installing an integrated cup.
Pushing on a empty bearing seat is just bad mechanics. Pushing on a cartridge bearing outer race as a slave to install something else is just unnecessary and bad form as well.
Think about all the headsets that use ball retainers or loose balls instead of cartridges. Pressing on the bearing track inside those cups would be foolish to say the least. Every single manufacturer recommends against that technique.
FSA (and others) specifically instruct the opposite of your claim.
Pressing the cups into the head tube Conventional, threaded, internally threaded, and Internal models only. For Integrated models, skip to
Headset Assembly
below)
1.
Apply a thin layer of grease to the inside surfaces of the head tube.
2.
Press the cups
②
○
2a
into the head tube using headset press (available from various bicycle tool manufacturers). Note:Refer to headset press instructions for use. Failure to use tool correctly may result in damage to poor performance or damage to headset or frame. Pressure should NOT be placed on bearings or bearing races by tool or fittings during installation.
If the headset cups are not installed in the headtube squarely, damage to the head tube, headset cups, and bearings may occur. Always face and ream headtube of bicycle to ensure.
The headset cups are installed square in the frame.
Headset Assembly
below)
1.
Apply a thin layer of grease to the inside surfaces of the head tube.
2.
Press the cups
②
○
2a
into the head tube using headset press (available from various bicycle tool manufacturers). Note:Refer to headset press instructions for use. Failure to use tool correctly may result in damage to poor performance or damage to headset or frame. Pressure should NOT be placed on bearings or bearing races by tool or fittings during installation.
If the headset cups are not installed in the headtube squarely, damage to the head tube, headset cups, and bearings may occur. Always face and ream headtube of bicycle to ensure.
The headset cups are installed square in the frame.
Sheldon Brown recommended BEATING them in with a hammer and a block of wood.
A drift is just an overpriced and unnecessary centering device that adds a little convenience to the task.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 04-05-17 at 11:34 AM.
04-10-17, 01:06 PM
#48
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[edited by mtnbke]
The OP wanted feedback from people on a good press and most of what he received is just people trying to validate that they didn't want to spend the money press.
I've got a Park 2nd gen press and the original 1st gen Pedros headset press. I haven't tried the new 2nd gen Pedro's press. I've have a lot of redundant/duplicate tools between Pedro's and Park and with few exceptions I prefer Pedro's. My Park HHP-2 only exists in my shop for all the large frames (68-72cm) with tall head tubes that the original Pedro's can't manage. Otherwise I never would have sourced the Park, as I rarely see 68cm + bikes from customers.
I'd like to get the new Pedro's press, a VAR, a Nashbar, a Cyclus, an X-tools, a Hozan, an EVT smoothie, an Abbey modular, and a Unior to see for myself the differences, and to publish a blog on what I liked or didn't like about each. Too many people come into Bike Forums and offer opinions from a position of never having tried different tools, and many quite simply never even owned the tool they are suggesting one not buy in the first place. In this forum we've seen that. OP wanted to know experiences with different Presses and most posts are from people that either chose to not buy one, or couldn't afford one, and just want to validate that decision. The problem with that is that the Headset press is the right tool for the job. You don't press in a $150 headset into a multi-thousand dollar bike without first facing and/or reaming the head tube and then pressing it in with a shop tool.
There are cheap options and by no means am I suggesting that the most expensive headset press is the best. Thought I suspect the EVT Smoothie is probably the most expensive and the best, anyway. However, I think the cheapest headset presses are probably (guessing here) all perfectly functional.
Check these bargains out if you're on a budget:
X-tools $51
X-Tools Headset Press Workshop Tool | Chain Reaction Cycles
Cyclus $36
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...up-press-25225
I'd probably sell my Park HHP-2 for any fair offer. I'm not in love with it, and I've never been impressed with my Park tools. The HHP-2 is okay, much better quality than most crappy stamped Park stuff. However the HHP-2 is overpriced. I'd NEVER sell my Pedro's 1st gen press just 'cause most people have never seen one, and I love Pedro's stuff. Just a rare Pedro's tool that never found market saturation, like the Pedro's shop two bike Rockstand.
I'm taken aback by all the home brewers that are kludging pressing in headsets with the wrong tools just because their budget doesn't allow for having the RIGHT tool.
Honestly, if bikes are your passion and your hobby and you can't afford the tools of the trade, you probably shouldn't have this as a hobby, or rather just stick to riding the bikes, and not working on them. Or borrow the right tools. Most people can't justify a Headtube facing/reaming tool but that doesn't mean most people shouldn't use one before installing a headset. A head tube press is what a competent bike mechanic uses to press in a headset on a quality bike frame.
Too often in these forums people share their perspective which is little more than an attempt to justify or validate NOT having tools they can't afford to buy. Headsets that aren't perfectly pressed in, bind. The handling is funny. Over time the steering gets spooky.
Get the right tool. If money isn't an issue get the EVT. Otherwise everything else is really just preference. Not everyone needs Snapon, Mac, or Matco tools but good mechanics, and people that work with tools for a living, and people passionate about cars have good tools. There is a reason. Sure there is a place for Harbor Freight stuff. There is a place in the world for people having to kludge without having access or being able to afford the right tools. However, its just silly to advocate that a headset press isn't necessary, when really the people posting that haven't worked as a professional bike mechanic, nor have they ever pressed in more than a handful of headsets (and doing it wrongly in the process). Park tools aren't even HF quality. In a world where good brands like MAC, Matco, Snap-On, etc. exist it's sad that Park has the market penetration they do. Most Park tools and other bike tools in the industry aren't even barely Harbor Freight quality. Its amazing when I look at my tool board how many Park tools are below the quality of tools that Harbor Freight sells.
If anyone sincerely wants to know what someone who actually has multiple headset presses thinks, I share that I prefer Pedro's tools over Park. I'd prefer the EVT Smoothie over both. I'd be happy to have a VAR, Cyclus, or a Hozan press. I'd want to at least try the Abbey Modular press. In a pinch I'd have a Nashbar, X-Tools, or other discount press before I'd ever resort to using acme rod and washers.
I like working on bikes. I like bikes. There is usually a right tool for the job. Use it. There is no perspective, that I think is reasonable, regarding kludging along without the right tools, let alone advocating for working on bike without having the right tools.
The OP wanted feedback from people on a good press and most of what he received is just people trying to validate that they didn't want to spend the money press.
I've got a Park 2nd gen press and the original 1st gen Pedros headset press. I haven't tried the new 2nd gen Pedro's press. I've have a lot of redundant/duplicate tools between Pedro's and Park and with few exceptions I prefer Pedro's. My Park HHP-2 only exists in my shop for all the large frames (68-72cm) with tall head tubes that the original Pedro's can't manage. Otherwise I never would have sourced the Park, as I rarely see 68cm + bikes from customers.
I'd like to get the new Pedro's press, a VAR, a Nashbar, a Cyclus, an X-tools, a Hozan, an EVT smoothie, an Abbey modular, and a Unior to see for myself the differences, and to publish a blog on what I liked or didn't like about each. Too many people come into Bike Forums and offer opinions from a position of never having tried different tools, and many quite simply never even owned the tool they are suggesting one not buy in the first place. In this forum we've seen that. OP wanted to know experiences with different Presses and most posts are from people that either chose to not buy one, or couldn't afford one, and just want to validate that decision. The problem with that is that the Headset press is the right tool for the job. You don't press in a $150 headset into a multi-thousand dollar bike without first facing and/or reaming the head tube and then pressing it in with a shop tool.
There are cheap options and by no means am I suggesting that the most expensive headset press is the best. Thought I suspect the EVT Smoothie is probably the most expensive and the best, anyway. However, I think the cheapest headset presses are probably (guessing here) all perfectly functional.
Check these bargains out if you're on a budget:
X-tools $51
X-Tools Headset Press Workshop Tool | Chain Reaction Cycles
Cyclus $36
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...up-press-25225
I'd probably sell my Park HHP-2 for any fair offer. I'm not in love with it, and I've never been impressed with my Park tools. The HHP-2 is okay, much better quality than most crappy stamped Park stuff. However the HHP-2 is overpriced. I'd NEVER sell my Pedro's 1st gen press just 'cause most people have never seen one, and I love Pedro's stuff. Just a rare Pedro's tool that never found market saturation, like the Pedro's shop two bike Rockstand.
I'm taken aback by all the home brewers that are kludging pressing in headsets with the wrong tools just because their budget doesn't allow for having the RIGHT tool.
Honestly, if bikes are your passion and your hobby and you can't afford the tools of the trade, you probably shouldn't have this as a hobby, or rather just stick to riding the bikes, and not working on them. Or borrow the right tools. Most people can't justify a Headtube facing/reaming tool but that doesn't mean most people shouldn't use one before installing a headset. A head tube press is what a competent bike mechanic uses to press in a headset on a quality bike frame.
Too often in these forums people share their perspective which is little more than an attempt to justify or validate NOT having tools they can't afford to buy. Headsets that aren't perfectly pressed in, bind. The handling is funny. Over time the steering gets spooky.
Get the right tool. If money isn't an issue get the EVT. Otherwise everything else is really just preference. Not everyone needs Snapon, Mac, or Matco tools but good mechanics, and people that work with tools for a living, and people passionate about cars have good tools. There is a reason. Sure there is a place for Harbor Freight stuff. There is a place in the world for people having to kludge without having access or being able to afford the right tools. However, its just silly to advocate that a headset press isn't necessary, when really the people posting that haven't worked as a professional bike mechanic, nor have they ever pressed in more than a handful of headsets (and doing it wrongly in the process). Park tools aren't even HF quality. In a world where good brands like MAC, Matco, Snap-On, etc. exist it's sad that Park has the market penetration they do. Most Park tools and other bike tools in the industry aren't even barely Harbor Freight quality. Its amazing when I look at my tool board how many Park tools are below the quality of tools that Harbor Freight sells.
If anyone sincerely wants to know what someone who actually has multiple headset presses thinks, I share that I prefer Pedro's tools over Park. I'd prefer the EVT Smoothie over both. I'd be happy to have a VAR, Cyclus, or a Hozan press. I'd want to at least try the Abbey Modular press. In a pinch I'd have a Nashbar, X-Tools, or other discount press before I'd ever resort to using acme rod and washers.
I like working on bikes. I like bikes. There is usually a right tool for the job. Use it. There is no perspective, that I think is reasonable, regarding kludging along without the right tools, let alone advocating for working on bike without having the right tools.
Last edited by mtnbke; 04-17-17 at 10:51 AM.
04-10-17, 01:13 PM
#49
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,496
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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@mtnbke, I know that feeling superior to others is important to you, so thank you for sharing.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-10-17, 01:38 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 1,511
Bikes: '92 22" Cannondale M2000, '92 Cannondale R1000 Tandem, another modern Canndondale tandem, Two Holy Grail '86 Cannondale ST800s 27" (68.5cm) Touring bike w/Superbe Pro components and Phil Wood hubs. A bunch of other 27" ST frames & bikes.
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@mtnbke, I know that feeling superior to others is important to you, so thank you for sharing.
Too many people post in these threads that don't work on bikes, have never worked on bikes, and don't even own bike tools but are quick to offer their ignorant opinions on what tools "are best."
I posted the pic as a proof of perspective. When I say I like something or don't like something, people know I've actually purchased and use the tools. I'm not just posting from my mum's basement as 90% of posts seem to originate.
