Jones H-Bar 2.5
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times
in
211 Posts
Jones H-Bar 2.5
Anybody rocking these bars and care to chime in on how they like them? Thinking of switching my currently flat riser bar Cross Check back to drops, or trying the 2.5 Jones out, to get more hand positions. If I did drops, I'd go with Surly Truck Stop bars this time for the extra rise (I need that on the 'Check). But obviously much easier to go with the Jones - can use my existing brake levers, etc. Plus, it's one of the few styles of bars I haven't tried on this bike.
Kinda wondering about the 2.5 vs the regular Jones with a steeper stem as well...
Kinda wondering about the 2.5 vs the regular Jones with a steeper stem as well...
#2
Junior Member
I’ve used Jones bars on my fat bike, and for several conversions of 1990s MTB frames into gravel bikes that I’ve built for myself and friends. I used the 2.5 bars on the conversions to increase rise, which worked really well. The extra rise is the only difference between 2.5 and standard Jones bars (besides a few grams). If you know you need more rise, I recommend these - then you still have the option of using a steeper stem for yet more rise if it turns out you want/need that.
I personally prefer Jones bars to standard flat bars because the backsweep is much more comfortable for me, especially when I’m standing, plus there are multiple hand positions.
At the risk of going down a rabbit hole, I’ve found the handlebar comparison tool at https://whatbars.com/ to be helpful.
I personally prefer Jones bars to standard flat bars because the backsweep is much more comfortable for me, especially when I’m standing, plus there are multiple hand positions.
At the risk of going down a rabbit hole, I’ve found the handlebar comparison tool at https://whatbars.com/ to be helpful.
Likes For scubaman:
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times
in
211 Posts
I’ve used Jones bars on my fat bike, and for several conversions of 1990s MTB frames into gravel bikes that I’ve built for myself and friends. I used the 2.5 bars on the conversions to increase rise, which worked really well. The extra rise is the only difference between 2.5 and standard Jones bars (besides a few grams). If you know you need more rise, I recommend these - then you still have the option of using a steeper stem for yet more rise if it turns out you want/need that.
I personally prefer Jones bars to standard flat bars because the backsweep is much more comfortable for me, especially when I’m standing, plus there are multiple hand positions.
At the risk of going down a rabbit hole, I’ve found the handlebar comparison tool at https://whatbars.com/ to be helpful.
I personally prefer Jones bars to standard flat bars because the backsweep is much more comfortable for me, especially when I’m standing, plus there are multiple hand positions.
At the risk of going down a rabbit hole, I’ve found the handlebar comparison tool at https://whatbars.com/ to be helpful.
Likes For ober27:
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times
in
211 Posts
I've never tried the riser version, but I bought a Jones Loop, sold it, and bought a Jones Bend. The "loop" bugged me visually and I never got comfortable using it as a hand position -- it felt too narrow. The Bend version solved that issue and offered a better position in the hooks, but after several months, I finally just put my drops back on. The Jones's 45º backsweep is comfortable while seated, but I didn't care for it when climbing. Plus, there's something inherently weird about steering with your hands behind the stem's top cap. It's a decidedly un-aggressive position, and I felt like Mary Poppins, sitting bolt-upright with all of my weight on the saddle. Great position for toodling, but I felt like a human sail. I would imagine that 2.5 inches of rise would only exacerbate that.
All that said, I know many people who just love the things, but for me it was overkill.
All that said, I know many people who just love the things, but for me it was overkill.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times
in
211 Posts
EDIT: yeah, just now putting in my Cowbells, the Jones, and the Moloko in that whatbars app---the Moloko might get me closer to what I'm thinking of, moreso than the Jones. I like that they don't come back as far behind the stem too, like Rolla mentioned.
Last edited by pbass; 09-16-21 at 02:32 PM.
#7
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
When Velo Orange's new version of their Crazy Bar becomes available, they look pretty nice, too:
Likes For Rolla:
#8
Junior Member
Originally Posted by pbass;[url=tel:22232640
22232640[/url]] I'm just wondering if there's a position on the Jones that kinda feels like being on the hoods (obviously w/o that wrist rotation). I guess stem length will factor into that. I will check out the link!
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,411
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times
in
18 Posts
I have a Jones 2.5 Loop bar on my bike and like it. The regular hood position on drop bars KILLS my hands, no matter how much I play with reach and height. The section of the loop bar where the brake levers attach, and just forward of that, are a decent recreation of a "hoods" position on a drop bar. The angle is quite comfortable, I can access my brakes and shifters (not 100% on the brakes, but enough that I feel safe) and I'm forward enough that I gain some aerodynamic benefit. I can also pull my hands back to the rear of the grips and I'm very upright.
The Jones bar also offers superb slow speed handling, which is one thing I never got with drop bars.
I WANT to like drop bars, but I can't get comfortable on the hoods and I don't like the slow speed maneuverability. The Jones Loop Bar is a great compromise that gives me the benefit of both a flat bar and a drop bar (I would never use the drops, anyway).
My "hood" position equivalent is having the tips of my thumbs inside the red circle, or even completely looped around that curved portion of the bar, hands on the controls.
The Jones bar also offers superb slow speed handling, which is one thing I never got with drop bars.
I WANT to like drop bars, but I can't get comfortable on the hoods and I don't like the slow speed maneuverability. The Jones Loop Bar is a great compromise that gives me the benefit of both a flat bar and a drop bar (I would never use the drops, anyway).
My "hood" position equivalent is having the tips of my thumbs inside the red circle, or even completely looped around that curved portion of the bar, hands on the controls.
Likes For corwin1968:
#10
Senior Member
I sold my Jones bar and got the Moloko just for that reason. I find myself on the forward position most of the time, but when approaching rough gravel, rocks, holes, etc, I pull back to the rear section for better control. Only issue with the bars is that they are steel.....a little heavier than the Jones.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Iowa
Posts: 682
Bikes: 2021 Salsa Fargo 1x12, 2019 Jamis Renegade Exploit 1x11. Motobacne NX Fat Tire
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 198 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times
in
170 Posts
I sold my Jones bar and got the Moloko just for that reason. I find myself on the forward position most of the time, but when approaching rough gravel, rocks, holes, etc, I pull back to the rear section for better control. Only issue with the bars is that they are steel.....a little heavier than the Jones.
Likes For Toadmeister:
Likes For 257 roberts:
#13
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,425
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3127 Post(s)
Liked 1,696 Times
in
1,026 Posts
For me, Jones bars don’t offer a position like being on the hoods on a drop bar, but of course they do offer various other positions. If you want that, you could try SQLab’s Innerbarends, https://sqlab-usa.com/collections/innerbarends, which mount inside the shift and brake levers on MTB bars. On my MTB, I have these on Salsa Bend Deluxe bars (23° sweep), and it does feel pretty close to riding on the hoods.
In fact, I like them so much, I wanted to add them to my drop bar gravel bike, mainly because I like being in a narrow tuck on the tops when riding straight, smooth roads. Also, even though I got 44cm wide bars, the hood stance seems unusually wide, uncomfortably wide, so the Innerbarends would kill two birds, so to speak. Attracted by the super low weight and easy installation of the 411R carbon fiber versions, I ordered them up without thinking of the clamp size, and they’re too small to fit the innermost 31.8mm diameter as well as too small to fit further outboard at the taper. Big fail. They’re going back to SQ Lab.
I’m not in love with the looks or weight of Rose Bike’s Spirgrips inner bar ends, but they will fit my bars, so I may give them a go. But man, having to accept them at over 100g compared to the 40g SQ Labs kinda hurts…
Likes For chaadster:
#14
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Grass Valley, Ca
Posts: 387
Bikes: Surly Cross Check, Specialized Enduro Pro, Lemond Tourmalet
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 105 Post(s)
Liked 192 Times
in
94 Posts
My CC was already converted from drops to flats when I bought it. Didn't get along with the flat bars. One position, too stretched out. Went to these. Much better . Several usable positions. Good angle on the bends. Riding roads, trails, running errands. Alll good, think I'm home.....
Likes For gorillimo:
#15
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vegemite Island
Posts: 4,130
Bikes: 2017 Surly Troll with XT Drive Train, 2017 Merida Big Nine XT Edition, 2016 Giant Toughroad SLR 2, 1995 Trek 830
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1916 Post(s)
Liked 310 Times
in
218 Posts
My CC was already converted from drops to flats when I bought it. Didn't get along with the flat bars. One position, too stretched out. Went to these. Much better . Several usable positions. Good angle on the bends. Riding roads, trails, running errands. Alll good, think I'm home.....
Likes For gorillimo:
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 2,104
Bikes: Road ready: 1993 Koga Miyata City Liner Touring Hybrid, 1989 Centurion Sport DLX, "I Blame GP" Bridgestone CB-1. Projects: Yea, I got a problem....
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 753 Post(s)
Liked 735 Times
in
421 Posts
I have the Jones 2.5 riser bars and unfortunately, realized that I should have ordered the flat bars. With a 90 degree stem, I have more steerer tube above the stem than I need and with the way the riser 'loop" drops I cant get my shifters and brakes as far forward as I want. Its dialed in fine right now, but to get to the sweet spot I need a different stem. I have considered getting some sort of dirt drop/LD stem and flipping the bars, but that's definitely the long way to get there..
#19
Ironsides
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 6
Bikes: 1976 Benotto Model 1500, 1986 Rockhopper, 2004 Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra (gargoyle), 199? Bianchi road bike (unknown model)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I put them on a 1986 Rockhopper I refurbished. I got the 2.5 due to the higher hand position. The original bike had a high angle stem so this worked without having the quill stem adapter sticking way out. I like the multiple hand positions plus room for bags, path bell, computer and light. The widest “rest” position is so different from grabbing the top of the upper bar which is almost a forward aero position. I got TOGs to make this forward position more comfortable. Some people put a single extension bar “narwhale” bar in the center of the upper bar for forward aero reach. Jones bars let me ride farther.