Koyote

If you want D/A, get it. Then you'll never second-guess the decision.

If you need justification, then okay, here it is: D/A is better than Ultegra.

genejockey 

Then you need to get Dura Ace or you'll always wonder/regret.

msu2001la

The cost of Dura Ace isn't really justifiable in terms of tangible performance benefits. Even for people who are paid to race bikes up mountains, the few hundred grams difference is well into marginal gains territory. That said, it's your dream build and you've already established that the cost isn't an issue. So... go for it.

If you want context, somewhere out there right now someone is debating if the $76k Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392 is "worth it" over the standard $45k Rubicon. For 99% of the population, these two vehicles are indistinguishable. One is slightly faster than the other.

shelbyfv

End of story! Nobody here is going to discourage you from getting what you want.

genejockey 

Lordy, is that the truth. Every time I've asked people here to talk me out of buying something, they do the opposite. Hence, 9 bikes.

livedarklions

Give it time. somebody will try. "One gear is plenty", or try to talk him into a 9 gear triple, or the like.

msu2001la

DA 9100 = 2007g
Ultegra R8000 = 2303g

It's been a while since I've looked at a weight weenie dollars per gram chart. Is $1000 to shave an additional 300 grams good or bad? I guess it's probably not too crazy when you think about wheel upgrades, or think about the cost difference between regular and S-Works frames, etc. If the OP's final build is 16.5lbs instead of 17lbs, does that matter to anyone other than the scale? It's still going to be a really light, fast and awesome ride either way.

I'd argue that the intangible "cool factor" and bling of Dura Ace is going to be worth more than 300 grams difference, but I suppose that depends on the OP's ultimate goal.

Mostly if I were the OP I wouldn't worry about justify the cost.

jaxgtr

Yea I have Ultegra mechanical on my Emonda but when I was looking for a new bike in 2020, I wanted electronic shifting, did not care , so I got it, but I went with Ultegra, as DA was just in the ridiculous price point for Di2.

ARider2

Go for the DA and don't look back your gonna love it

Rdmonster69

I love the replies! Thanks for indulging me. My Chris King BB just came in and I'm ooing and ahhing over that right now. Gonna source tires, stem , handlebar and maybe a seat post in the next 6 weeks or so. Then pull the trigger on the groupset. I found a place that has em in stock so hopefully they will still be around. Maybe by March or April there will be a killer build thread. I'm taking pics along the way : )

shelbyfv

I wouldn't wait on the group if you can find one. Remember it's now last generation, not current. I won't pretend to know how Shimano operates but it wouldn't be a surprise if they skewed production toward OEM 12 speed. They'll likely look after their big customers first, may be a gap in production of "legacy" parts. Just a thought. As I said, no insider knowledge here.

GhostRider62

300 grams is 0.75 pounds. Is 3 bucks a gram worth it? Dunno. Personal decision. Some put the limit at a buck a gram. Some don't care.

I need a new 24 mm axle crank. DA vs Ultegra is 100 grams and $250 differential or thereabouts. I can't decide, it is a bike that I won't ride too much. I just can't stand the thought of looking down and seeing an Ultegra crank of a bike with all other components top of the line. Weight is a small factor, less than the aesthetics for me. If OP has the coin, get DA

martianone

I had been lusting about a no expense spared road bike, probably for 30 years.
Each time a new leading edge component set came out, I would update my build.
10 years ago, I did it - built a custom steel frame road bike.
Selected the components I wanted, didn't pay much attention to the bottom line.
Now have an awesome bike, it is an extension of my body.
Wish I had done this years before.
Take away from this project, a bike is the sum of its parts-
don't splurg on drive train, then scrimp on wheels.
If going for gold, make sure all the other components are also top of the line.

DMC707

yes

DMC707

Di2 is a wired system. You need to figure out a clean way to route them, - but there are seat tube batteries. Its very do-able, but needs some thought for a clean appearance vs modern stuff that is already drilled for internal wiring.

SRAM AXS however, is not a wired system

icemilkcoffee 

Neither.



There are some inherent flaws in the Shimano glued-together Hollowtech cranks, that cause them to separate in certain conditions.
Why not just go for the period-correct 7700 era Dura Ace if you must have Dura Ace?

Iride01 

Yes that is somewhat true. And for most "casual" DIYer's I can see where that would nix it for them. However "dedicated and determined" DIYer's even way back in the vintage days were putting cables for shifters and brakes inside frames that didn't come stock with internal routing.

Di2 wires come in all lengths, so with the correct mounting externally, it can look just as good as the external cable housings that are already on it. Di2 front and rear DR's and any of the components can even share the same wire run with y's or splits at appropriate places as they rely on signaling and not just on/off voltage.

Though off the top of my head, the only issue will be if Di2 ever had a cable pulled STI for the bakes. I thought it did, but without looking it up, I can't be certain.

Iride01 

Scare tactics with no basis to the reality of how often that has happened compared to any other crank failure?

What about these solid crank arm failures?

Bald Paul

A Dura Ace groupset will make you look much faster at the rest stops.

cxwrench

You have got to be kidding me. If you're going to worry about breaking something that is 99.999999999% not going to break you need to find something safe to occupy your time. Like wrapping yourself in bubble wrap and wearing a helmet everywhere. Gimme a break.

Rdmonster69

Not worried about breakage ....thats what warranties are for .

As for Di2. I could probably handle the wiring but not the price tag over mechanical. Di2 is a little too pricey for me.

Period correct 7700 is an option but its getting hard to find in decent shape and NOS/excellent condition is as expensive as new up to date stuff.

Riveting

Maybe SRAM eTap wireless is the answer for a frame not designed for internal cable routing? Doesn't that system remove the wiring between the brifters and the derailleurs, and removes the wiring between the seatpost battery and the DR's, since each brifter and DR has its own battery and the signals between brifters and DR's are fully wireless?

Bruizer

I totally agree! I put DA on my Pinarello because I wanted it and at this point in my life I could afford it. I say go for it!
By the way, the Ultegra that was on my Pinarello I put on my 2004 Litespeed Classic. I think DA on that bike would look great.

Razorrock

I ordered a Litespeed last summer in the middle of covid shutdown. Doing my part to keep businesses busy (or so I told my wife)
Bought the bike for the Hydro DI2 Ultegra. When the bike finally arrived, I opened the box to Dura Ace DI2 9170 with a Praxis carbon crankset because of supply issues at no added cost to me.

Bald Paul is right. No difference to me in performance but it sure puts a smile on my face.

icemilkcoffee 

The blog where I got the first pic from:
Shimano Dura-Ace FC-9000 Crank Fail ? Carlin the Cyclist
This guy broke TWO of these cranks. From his blog:So this is by no means an isolated incidence. In fact somebody set up an Instagram page to document these failures:
https://www.instagram.com/thanksshimano/
There are a ton of these failures and new pictures are added every couple of days.