Bicycle restoration - reliable metalworkers in London, UK?
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Bicycle restoration - reliable metalworkers in London, UK?
Anyone from London knows some reliable metalworkers with well equipped workshops and who don't charge an arm and a leg for their services? I'm restoring a bicycle with heavily rusted / pitted Huret Success Titane dérailleurs and shifters. I'm talking about chromed parts on these, chrome plating is beyond saving. So I was thinking about getting a few bits (screws, dérailleur plates, cable adjusters, headset lock nuts) sandblasted. This way I could at least do some bluing on them to prevent rust and keep them in working order. The wheels are alloy, I can clean these myself using tools I have, the frame is going to get sand blasted when I get it powder coated, but these small bits of the components are a massive pain in the neck to bring to a decent condition without a sand blasting cabinet and the right tools (which I don't have).
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First look at chemical rust treatments before any mechanical stuff is done. For best old chrome and rust situations stripping off the old chrome and replating is the best way to restore. A metal finisher/plater outfit is the ticket for this.
I will comment on your qualifications of a workshop. You get to have low weight, high strength or low cost but only two, not all three at the same time. Why would a worker discount their time/skills/tools for you? Why would you want someone who can't run their business well enough to let them pay their bills? Your plan isn't a cookie cutter service and has all kinds of time pits along the way. Knowing this and having an in depth discussion about what is expected and doable at what estimated cost is essential to avoid a bad result. Remember the more you want to micro manage the worker then more they will be bothered and the less they will likely want to do for you. Andy
I will comment on your qualifications of a workshop. You get to have low weight, high strength or low cost but only two, not all three at the same time. Why would a worker discount their time/skills/tools for you? Why would you want someone who can't run their business well enough to let them pay their bills? Your plan isn't a cookie cutter service and has all kinds of time pits along the way. Knowing this and having an in depth discussion about what is expected and doable at what estimated cost is essential to avoid a bad result. Remember the more you want to micro manage the worker then more they will be bothered and the less they will likely want to do for you. Andy
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Agree with Andrew about using chemicals to strip the rust. Far easier and less likely to damage the good parts. Here in the states this Evaporust is very popular. Thompsons Ltd | Evaporust Evapo-Rust Remover 5L Safe Rust Remove Metal Treatment This is just the first UK site that popped up so shop around for better prices and you may only need a 1 liter size for the parts you mentioned. You may need to do some scrubbing with a stiff brush occasionally during the soaking period if the rust is stubborn. Won't harm paint, plastics or rubber. Doesn't leave any rust protective coating so replacing some of the screws may be a good idea.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 10-21-21 at 08:55 AM.
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QUOTE=Andrew R Stewart;22277638]I will comment on your qualifications of a workshop. You get to have low weight, high strength or low cost but only two, not all three at the same time. Why would a worker discount their time/skills/tools for you? Why would you want someone who can't run their business well enough to let them pay their bills? Your plan isn't a cookie cutter service and has all kinds of time pits along the way. Knowing this and having an in depth discussion about what is expected and doable at what estimated cost is essential to avoid a bad result. Remember the more you want to micro manage the worker then more they will be bothered and the less they will likely want to do for you. Andy[/QUOTE]
I'm afraid you misunderstood my requirements and intentions. I have no objections paying decent money for a job well done. I'm not asking for discounts or special treatment. But in London you are as likely to find a person who will do a good job as someone who has no clue what they are doing (or doesn't give a damn) and asks for crazy money. I'm asking people here if they had experiences of the first kind and if they can point me in the right direction. Because reading reviews on Google maps or opinions on the company website is a moot point. I'm happy to have a discussion with a metalworker if I know they have been recommended by someone. Though as for my "instructions" it's about as involved as "here's the derailleur plate, screws and headset cups and nuts. Would you be able to sand blast them over the next month or two and how much would it cost?". I'm not the kind of person who would be interested in telling anyone how to do their job.
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Agree with Andrew about using chemicals to strip the rust. Far easier and less likely to damage the good parts. Here in the states this Evaporust is very popular. Thompsons Ltd | Evaporust Evapo-Rust Remover 5L Safe Rust Remove Metal Treatment This is just the first UK site that popped up so shop around for better prices and you may only need a 1 liter size for the parts you mentioned. You may need to do some scrubbing with a stiff brush occasionally during the soaking period if the rust is stubborn. Won't harm paint, plastics or rubber. Doesn't leave any rust protective coating so replacing some of the screws may be a good idea.
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You might look into the Lightweight Classic Vintage bicycles (classicrendezvous.com) google group. They collect and talk about restoring/fixing and assessing classic sporting bikes and have a few very active members in England. Norris Lockley and Kevin Sayles are two that have decades of experience in dealing with this stuff.
For the small screws and such- I've found the best way to restore/repair these things are to find donner components. At home wire wheels on grinders, brass brushes and metal polish are your friends. Andy
For the small screws and such- I've found the best way to restore/repair these things are to find donner components. At home wire wheels on grinders, brass brushes and metal polish are your friends. Andy
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You might look into the Lightweight Classic Vintage bicycles (classicrendezvous.com) google group. They collect and talk about restoring/fixing and assessing classic sporting bikes and have a few very active members in England. Norris Lockley and Kevin Sayles are two that have decades of experience in dealing with this stuff.
For the small screws and such- I've found the best way to restore/repair these things are to find donner components. At home wire wheels on grinders, brass brushes and metal polish are your friends. Andy
For the small screws and such- I've found the best way to restore/repair these things are to find donner components. At home wire wheels on grinders, brass brushes and metal polish are your friends. Andy
As for the donor components, I have some other Huret (sorry, newer ones, so Sachs Huret) derailleurs and shifters and some small parts can be cannibalised. Though the designs are very different, so things that can be used are the minor ones: adjustment screws or jockey wheel screws. I guess I will have to look for some other derailleurs and spare parts in a better shape.
I do have wire wheels and drill bits with brass brush endings. As for the metal polish, for now certain bits are beyond the point when metal polish would help. We'll see how de-rusting goes.
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Just like Andrew Stewart's previous recommendation, this SITE also has plenty of folks that restore hundred year old bicycles that one would initially think had been left out in the garden for too many decades.
https://thecabe.com/forum/
https://thecabe.com/forum/
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If I were to get a sand blasting cabinet, I'd probably get a second hand one from eBay. Right now I'm checking various cycling collectives in London, because if I get any more specialised tools for bicycle rebuilds, like compressor, sand blasting gun and cabinet, I would still need to store that somewhere.
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I bought mine a few years ago, it sat unassembled for a month before I got it up and running. It's a 2'x4' with the mesh floor dropped a bit to add more height. Other mods allowed for better evacuation of the dirty air and control for the compressed air supply/flow. There's a whole "community" on you tubes about small sand blasters and how to improve them. Very eye opening. Before you invest in a cabinet and if you haven't used one before I suggest you do. Cabinets are far smaller on the inside then the numbers would suggest. Andy
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