5 speed IGH bikes info and appreciation.
09-08-18, 04:58 AM
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5 speed IGH bikes info and appreciation.
I am looking to build one of these and want to know some information before I do. With a typical 3 speed IGH I ride in 2nd and shift to 3rd if I get going or down hill and use 1st for any hill. Now I am thinking of a Grand Sportier built up with a newer 5 speed and am wondering what chainring and rear cog some of you are using? Do you like along the chain stay for the gear cable or the seat stay?
What shifter are you using? Maybe other questions will come out.
My build will probably be 700c, upright bars (not chop and flop), MKS pedals, probably a Brooks Flyer, Schwalbe Marathon Plus 37mm tires and no fenders, but possibly a chain guard.
Similar to this
Something similar to this
This will be more of a sunny day ride.
What shifter are you using? Maybe other questions will come out.
My build will probably be 700c, upright bars (not chop and flop), MKS pedals, probably a Brooks Flyer, Schwalbe Marathon Plus 37mm tires and no fenders, but possibly a chain guard.
Similar to this
Something similar to this
This will be more of a sunny day ride.
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Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
09-08-18, 10:01 AM
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Well, I know you've seen this one.
I used a 52t chainring in front, mostly because the chain guard on the Stronglight cranks matched it. That necessitated a 21t cog in the back. If you're wanting a full chain guard I'd select something like a 42t to better match the curvature of the guard You can "adust" the range of gearing by changing the rear cog. With a 5 speed IGH you'll have to decide if you want/need a low low end or a higher high end. A Sturmey Archer 5 speed IGH, for example, only has a 243% range of gear ratio. If you're riding relatively flat ground, that'll be more than enough. If you want/need to ride in hillier country, a 7 or 8 speed might be a better choice, or you can compromise on the high end and just coast on the downhills.
I used a 52t chainring in front, mostly because the chain guard on the Stronglight cranks matched it. That necessitated a 21t cog in the back. If you're wanting a full chain guard I'd select something like a 42t to better match the curvature of the guard You can "adust" the range of gearing by changing the rear cog. With a 5 speed IGH you'll have to decide if you want/need a low low end or a higher high end. A Sturmey Archer 5 speed IGH, for example, only has a 243% range of gear ratio. If you're riding relatively flat ground, that'll be more than enough. If you want/need to ride in hillier country, a 7 or 8 speed might be a better choice, or you can compromise on the high end and just coast on the downhills.
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09-10-18, 10:02 AM
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I have a build going, but danged if I can remember what the tooth counts are. I have the XLRD-5 rear hub and the XL-FDD for the front. Mine is going on a Raleigh Record? frame set with mustache bars. I am using the bar end shifter from SA. I will check the chain ring and rear cog tonight. Update: I have a 46t chainring and an 18t on the hub. Bike isn't finished yet, so I can't tell whether that combination will work for me or not. I did run it through a gear calculator and it looked decent for me. Bike is going to have fenders and a rack, but most of mine do anyway.
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Last edited by wahoonc; 09-10-18 at 06:36 PM.
09-10-18, 12:37 PM
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This is my primary winter-weather bike, equipped with XL-RD5 and XL-FD hubs. This winter, it'll be getting upgraded to the generator version of that same front hub, so that I can have generator-powered lighting on it like I do on the other bikes that get used regularly for commuting/transportation
09-10-18, 08:51 PM
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The page for the Sturmey Archer RX-RF5 hub shows this gear chart:
• Overall Range - 243%
• Gear 1 - 64% (Gear 2 - 25%)
• Gear 2 - 80% (Gear 3 - 25%)
• Gear 3 - 100% (Direct Drive)
• Gear 4 - 125% (Gear 3 + 25%)
• Gear 5 - 156% (Gear 4 + 25%)
So do the math to determine which size chainring and cog to use.
• Overall Range - 243%
• Gear 1 - 64% (Gear 2 - 25%)
• Gear 2 - 80% (Gear 3 - 25%)
• Gear 3 - 100% (Direct Drive)
• Gear 4 - 125% (Gear 3 + 25%)
• Gear 5 - 156% (Gear 4 + 25%)
So do the math to determine which size chainring and cog to use.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
09-10-18, 09:25 PM
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With a Sturmey Archer X-RF5(w), I'm using a 44t chainring and 19t cog. The terrain is pretty flat where I live. And I only get into 5th gear downhill or with a tailwind.
09-11-18, 03:18 AM
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I have a build going, but danged if I can remember what the tooth counts are. I have the XLRD-5 rear hub and the XL-FDD for the front. Mine is going on a Raleigh Record? frame set with mustache bars. I am using the bar end shifter from SA. I will check the chain ring and rear cog tonight. Update: I have a 46t chainring and an 18t on the hub. Bike isn't finished yet, so I can't tell whether that combination will work for me or not. I did run it through a gear calculator and it looked decent for me. Bike is going to have fenders and a rack, but most of mine do anyway.
Aaron
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Last edited by JaccoW; 09-11-18 at 03:23 AM.
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09-11-18, 04:05 AM
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I went with the XL because either me or my son will be riding the bike and we both are XL. 
I will have to pop the wheels on the frame and get a picture later. Right now we are in the middle of hurricane prep.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
09-11-18, 07:11 AM
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This is my primary winter-weather bike, equipped with XL-RD5 and XL-FD hubs. This winter, it'll be getting upgraded to the generator version of that same front hub, so that I can have generator-powered lighting on it like I do on the other bikes that get used regularly for commuting/transportation
09-11-18, 07:29 AM
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Didn't notice until after I posted!
They don't look overly large or out of place on that bike. How do you like the modulation? No issues with the hub? I've read the XL-RD5 wasn't always the most reliable hub out there.
Bike looks good though. If you like that particular battery light you will probably enjoy the B+M Cyo Premium as they are essentially the same light.
They don't look overly large or out of place on that bike. How do you like the modulation? No issues with the hub? I've read the XL-RD5 wasn't always the most reliable hub out there.
Bike looks good though. If you like that particular battery light you will probably enjoy the B+M Cyo Premium as they are essentially the same light.
09-11-18, 08:11 AM
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Didn't notice until after I posted!
They don't look overly large or out of place on that bike. How do you like the modulation? No issues with the hub? I've read the XL-RD5 wasn't always the most reliable hub out there.
Bike looks good though. If you like that particular battery light you will probably enjoy the B+M Cyo Premium as they are essentially the same light.
They don't look overly large or out of place on that bike. How do you like the modulation? No issues with the hub? I've read the XL-RD5 wasn't always the most reliable hub out there.
Bike looks good though. If you like that particular battery light you will probably enjoy the B+M Cyo Premium as they are essentially the same light.
I'll be putting the B&M Cyo Premium T on this bike, same as I have on 4 others. The battery light is the Trelock LS-950 Control Ion. The Cyo Premium is a little brighter than the Trelock's brightest setting, and the beam pattern is at least twice as wide!
09-12-18, 10:14 AM
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My only complaints with the hubs are that the front brake can sometimes get a bit grabby/sticky when it's really cold, but oiling the pivots this past year seems to have helped. I do find that the 70mm version is sufficient for most of my use with an upright bike, though. The 5-speed is a bit finicky to get the gears adjusted correctly, but otherwise no problems there.
I'll be putting the B&M Cyo Premium T on this bike, same as I have on 4 others. The battery light is the Trelock LS-950 Control Ion. The Cyo Premium is a little brighter than the Trelock's brightest setting, and the beam pattern is at least twice as wide!
I'll be putting the B&M Cyo Premium T on this bike, same as I have on 4 others. The battery light is the Trelock LS-950 Control Ion. The Cyo Premium is a little brighter than the Trelock's brightest setting, and the beam pattern is at least twice as wide!
I have a few varieties of the Cyo myself and I really like them as a light. Much better pattern than the B+M IQ-XS but it is a very sexy light to look at.
