Did I install these pads correctly?
#1
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Did I install these pads correctly?
I just got new shimano pads that have the replaceable screw so you can just change the pads in the future. But there’s no directions as to which is right side or left. This is the front right, is that correct?
i had about 1,000 miles on the old pads. Not too hilly riding but a lot of stop and go city riding.
i had about 1,000 miles on the old pads. Not too hilly riding but a lot of stop and go city riding.
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No, you have them backwards. Ignore the screw for a moment. The brakes should be installed such that when the brakes are applied, the wheel pulls the pads into the stops, rather than pulling the pads out of the shoes. When installed the right way around, the screw is not strictly necessary. See also Shimano's tech docs (https://si.shimano.com) - for example here's the one for the BR-5600 shown in my photo below https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...5600-2442B.pdf
Last edited by nathand; 06-25-21 at 11:20 AM. Reason: improve phrasing, add link to Shimano docs
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#3
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THANK YOU! I tired YouTube, the shimano web site, and no answers. Appreciate it!
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Interestingly, SRAM makes this super clear on their brake shoes (this is the rear brake on a different bike).
#5
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Yea, that would be helpful.
I also upgraded the saddle to a specialized arc and put new grip tape on. (Kind of a hack job on the grip tape, need to get better at that).
Ready for some summer miles.
I also upgraded the saddle to a specialized arc and put new grip tape on. (Kind of a hack job on the grip tape, need to get better at that).
Ready for some summer miles.
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There are 2 ways you can install them. One way the pad will get shot out of the holder if the retaining screw comes out. The other way it won't
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One will never get good at installing handlebar tape if one only replaces the tape when worn. However, if one swaps handlebar tape color on a whim, then it improves the odds of becoming good at this task.
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They were backwards. cxwrench and I both said the same thing: the brakes should be oriented such that if the retaining screw is missing, the pads will still stay in the shoes when the brakes are applied, rather than being dragged out of the shoes by the rotation of the wheel.
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Shimano has a tech doc site that will answer quite a bit of questions. https://si.shimano.com/
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...0A-002-ENG.pdf
Might not be your exact model of brake pad, but the idea is the same. As everyone has told you, yours are backwards. Swap sides.
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...0A-002-ENG.pdf
Might not be your exact model of brake pad, but the idea is the same. As everyone has told you, yours are backwards. Swap sides.
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The screw is a relatively new addition, presumably to help retain the pads if the holders are put in backwards.
In vintage holders, they were just bent aluminum without that extra screw. And, hard braking could potentially pull the pads out if mounted wrong.
In vintage holders, they were just bent aluminum without that extra screw. And, hard braking could potentially pull the pads out if mounted wrong.
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Perhaps OP was confused by the fin extending down from the brake shoe, and wanted the fin oriented like it was on a whale.
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Doing a nice job on bar tape takes a lot of effort, and there are about a million little tips. Next time, watch some how-to vids first, use tape that unsticks easily so you can redo it, and allow bloody ages to match the second wrap to the first. And pull it tight.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#18
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Here’s some pics. I’ve been riding serious for about 2 years. Basically the pandemic got me into it and now I have a serious addiction. Doing wahoo/zwift in the winters too.
Planning on 1,500-2,000 miles over the summer. I did 22 miles today, breaks worked great. Luckily the guy at the LBS told me I needed them. Didn’t look like it until I took them off and compared!
I’ll probably upgrade to disc brakes next year on a different bike.
I do mostly city riding so I’m not going for speed so no need for an expensive carbon frame. Maybe the newer all city if I can find it used or a similar steel frame bike.
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Good job. Taping bars takes repetition...big time. You may nail it every now and then but there's nothing like doing a few hundred different bar/tape/lever combinations to really get a handle on it.
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You can get the ride comfort advantage from a metal frame if it's compact enough to show a fair bit of seatpost, and you fit a light carbon post. Seatpost deflection can make as much difference as the difference between 23 and 28mm tyres.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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[QUOTE=Bikerdrummer;22119240]
small thing...traditionally bikes are hung with the gears facing out...not a rule...they look better in photos hung that way.
small thing...traditionally bikes are hung with the gears facing out...not a rule...they look better in photos hung that way.
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That's a good looking bike, deserves nicer and matching cages.