sjanzeir

So here's where we're at:




I picked up these NOS Sora 2x7 brifters ( cxwrench ) and I got them sorta (Sora... sorta...) working. I'm still trying to get the RH shift action to index properly with the Raleigh rear derailleur; as of now, it either won't shift out of the highest gear in a single click or won't shift into the lowest gear without being forced. I'm still fiddling with the limit screws and barrel adjuster, but I'm getting there.

New, Amazon's Choice-quality bar tape is on the way (it's that time of month where I have to become a cheapskate )

Lombard

Point taken. Sort of like having bars that are too narrow which also inhibit breathing.

Lombard

Good grief!! With that cable routing, I can't imagine shifting is any good.

sjanzeir

What's wrong with the cable routing? If you take a closer look, you'll see that each shift housing makes its way from brifter to down tube cable stop in a smooth, sweeping curve!

sjanzeir

As for the brake housings, I'm just waiting on the bar tape to get them tucked in.

sjanzeir

Besides, with my complete lack of experience as to working with modern brifters, I'm surprised that I even got this far! So cut me some slack!

Lombard

Why do you have the front shifter housing curled around the other housings like that? Is there some kind of an optical illusion I'm seeing?

sjanzeir

Yes.

Lombard

Ahhhh, OK, much better photo. Though I don't quite understand why you routed the rear brake housing in between the two shifter housings. Once you install bar tape, that won't work out.

sjanzeir

Actually, you might be right! I'm probably going to need to reroute that!

genejockey 

I would not expect the Sora shifter to index properly with the Raleigh derailleur. Indexed shifting depends on the shifter pulling exactly enough cable for each shift to move the derailleur exactly the right amount, so shifters and derailleurs have to be compatible. The Raleigh derailleur was deigned for friction shifting, and won't move the correct amount for each click of the shifter.

SJX426 

I think the brake housing is too short for both brakes once you wrap the bar.
Both shifting housings are too long. Double check how much extra or not there is when the bars are turned each direction.

Lombard

I missed the part about having a Raleigh derailleur. Pretty sure that won't work properly. I think any Shimano 7, 8, 9 or 10 speed road derailleur should work, but not absolutely sure about that.

sjanzeir

Okay, here's where we're at:




As far as the rear derailleur goes, I got it working just fine shifting into and out of top and bottom gears. It's in the middle gears - between 4th and 5th, to be exact - that I'm still having an issue with lag. I'm starting to think that it might be the brand new SRAM 7-speed cassette that doesn't want to play well with the rest, but I'm still tinkering with it. If all else fails, I'll see about finding me a Shimano RD that works.

In the mean time, I can report that the original Sachs-Huret front derailleur is working just fine with the left brifter, so no issues there. The irony is that I have a vintage Shimano 600 FD on standby in anticipation of just this kind of issue, and yet it turns out that it's a rear derailleur that I should've ordered all along!

Lombard

Your shifter cables will rub the paint right off your head tube if you don't protect it somehow. You can use clear tape in the area. Or you can get some of these:

Scroll down to "Cable Management & Frame Protection" and use tube tops or cable donuts:

https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts

sjanzeir

I realized after I finished up that my shift housings were too long and my brake housings too short. I probably should've held off on this until after I've ordered some new housings. But I'm not about to ride this bike just yet because I'm too terrified of what it's going to be like to ride drop bars, on public roads, in traffic, after all these years and extra pounds! I'm not 23 anymore.

maartendc

As others have hinted at: you can get a variety of fit options with drop handlebars switching out stems, stack height, even handlebars with shorter or longer reach, sweeps, etc.

Other than that, the drop handlebars just give you MORE options in terms of position, so in my opinion is always superior to flat bars:
- On the tops for climbing or relaxed riding
- In the hoods for relaxed riding, or hoods + elbows at 90 degrees for aero position.
- in the drops for descending or headwind riding

Being able to change hand position is also great for long rides. It is perfectly acceptable to ride on the tops of the handlebar if you find that more comfortable, no need to be in the hoods or drops all the time. Personally, the reach on my road bike is slightly long for me, so I hold the handlebars mostly at the curve towards the hoods, but rarely on the hoods themselves.

sjanzeir

Well, this has been a long time coming, but I finally got my used Shimano RSX rear derailleur this morning after two weeks in transit. Sure enough, it worked like a dream with the vintage seven-speed Sora brifter for precise and prompt shifts. Except for the chain being a couple of links too short (I can't cross-chain 52-32), and pending a test ride with a slightly flatter belly, I'd say this old girl is pretty much sorted!

spelger

Green?

spelger

Like it.

Lombard

I think it's the lighting.

sjanzeir

Yeah, it's a one-off that Shimano finished with my bespoke shade of green. Dude, look at the walls! Everything tends to take on a greenish tinge in my man-cave.