nak45z

Want to go from the Shimano External Battery to an Internal Battery,
Question:
Is there a cable wire that is needed to connect the seatpost battery to the junction box?

thanks,

TimothyH

Yes, you will need the appropriate length E-Tube wire. It needs to be long enough to reach from the seatpost mounted battery to junction B plus a little extra. Err on the side of too long rather than too short. Use a piece of string to determine the proper length.You will also need a mount for the battery or a piece of foam can be wrapped around the battery to hold it into the seatpost if you don't want to spend the extra $10. Make sure to purchase the one to fit your seatpost diameter.Grommets are cheap and might come in handy.Sorry to tell you that you are going to need a new charger as well. The internal DN110 battery cannot be charged with the BCR1 charger for external batteries. You are going to need the BCR2 charger.Which brings up the last issue I can think of. The BCR2 charger has an odd shaped plug which interfaces with Junction A to charge the system. I don't know much about the external Di2 systems and whether they use the same junction A as internal systems or not.

The photo below shows the port on junction A and the corresponding cable end from the BCR2 charger. If your external system does not have this charging port with which you can use the pictured cable then you will need a junction A.




Good luck and let us know how it goes.


-Tim-

PS: the dealer manual for Di2 is at https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf

HillRider

This is the type of complexity that tells me why I will never give up my plain mechanical shifting groups.

TimothyH

If you really feel this way then put your money where your mouth is and get a fixed gear bike.

With all due respect.


-Tim-

HillRider

Come on, be serious. Being willing to accept some complexity (mechanical derailleur drivetrains) doesn't have to mean accepting even more complexity and cost for no obvious benefit. I'm by no mens a Luddite but enough is enough.

TimothyH

There are hundreds of other threads where your opinion of Di2 will be welcomed. This thread is not one of them.

Take it somewhere else and let us discuss the topic please.


-Tim-

HillRider

Apparently you don't get the the concept of "thread drift". It's been alive and well here for many years.

TimothyH

Moving on, I'm open to correction from anyone who has better information or thinks the answer I have given contains errors.

@nak45z, please let us know how it goes.


-Tim-

sweeks

In the spirit of "thread drift", I think an argument could be made that the number of component failures that would leave you walking is substantially greater for electronic shifting than for cable-actuated shifting.
Steve

pesty

continuing with thread drift... I converted my Allez Sprint [a bike not designed to run Di2 in any way] over to internal Di2. I found it to be much easier to do than pulling internal mechanical cabling on the same bike and about 10x easier than replacing a single mechanical cabe in the Giant Propel I had before it.

Initial cabling aside, Di2 is downright lazy compared to mechanical. 1/2 the complexity at the most.

TimothyH

Your post illustrates the fallacy that Di2 is somehow more complex than mechanical. It simply isn't the case.

A shifter for example, is nothing more than an electrical switch, far less complex than the mechanism inside an STI shifter and an order of magnitude fewer moving parts. Another example is adjustment which only needs to be done once with electronic.

There is no reason to think that fewer moving parts in particular and lack of complexity in general will not translate into greater durability, contrary to what mechanical only advocates put forth.

I actually own both mechanical and Di2 bikes and the Di2 drivetrain is far less complex to work on. This thread is nothing more than yet another case of those with no experience telling those with experience how things are and things they ought to be done.


-Tim-

pesty

That is exactly what I just said. Di2 is 1/2 as complex at best (or worst? Not sure which). I say that having had to cut and splice two e-tube cables to run them internally on my Allez Sprint.

TimothyH

I can't wait for Di3.

pesty

I heard it’s going to be all Fetzer valves and ball bearings. Better start stocking up on 3-in-1 oil and anti-freeze.

That’s just cheating.

WizardOfBoz

Isn't that just an e-bike?

Don't let the naysayers get to you, Timothy. We're just jealous. I can't afford Di2.

nak45z

Thanks for the advice Timothy, let me find out what are the length of wires I need.
I will keep you posted on the battery install.

nak45z

thanks for the advice, let me look into the sizes of cables I need. I will keep you posted.

HillRider

Well, the entire thread wasn't but my thread drift was so guilty as charged.

TimothyH

Be jealous if you want but I took 30 straight weeks of on-call to be able to afford my Niner Di2 gravel bike. I did the build myself, all of it, except for the wheels to save money.

Getting woken up at 2AM most nights by angry customer's wanting me to fix their storage arrays and blade servers wasn't fun. Hard work and sacrifice got me the bike. Nobody handed it to me.

I'm thinking of doing it again, this time for a Dura Ace Cervelo. It's gonna be badass.


-Tim-

TimothyH

Interference of the front derailleur battery with wider tires was a concern with eTap and why I went with Di2. I'd welcome your thoughts on that especially since we have the same frame.

"Less complexity" is relative anyway. Di2 is not complex at all. The hardest part is setting the B screw.

Marcus_Ti

Cue the $%^& posting about Di2...

TimothyH

In spit of all the off topic posts, I hope you do come back and let us know how it worked. I am sincerely interested.


-Tim-