Finding the right crankset for an old MTB
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Finding the right crankset for an old MTB
Hello everyone,
I'm looking for a crankset for an older MTB and I need to get a sanity check/second opinion on what my bike mechanic is telling me.
I've got an old Univega Acera 400 (Bikepedia stats) that's overdue for a drivetrain replacement. I brought it into the local bike shop today and the mechanic told me the crankset would be hard to replace because new MTB cranksets have wider spacing than my 9-year old bike's. He thinks the cogs will need to be replaced one at a time. This is apparently a lot more expensive than just buying a whole new crankset.
Bikepedia says the crankset that came with the bike is a "SunRace Accura, 22/32/42 teeth" - I haven't been able to find this item online anywhere. I did find a Shimano Alivio crankset with the same size cogs on Amazon (here) but I don't know if the thing will be compatible with my bike.
I'd also like to get new Acera front and rear derailleurs so the whole undercarriage of my bike will be new.
How do I know if a crankset I find online is going to be compatible with my bike? And how do I know if the front derailleur will be compatible with a given crankset?
Thanks in advance!
I'm looking for a crankset for an older MTB and I need to get a sanity check/second opinion on what my bike mechanic is telling me.
I've got an old Univega Acera 400 (Bikepedia stats) that's overdue for a drivetrain replacement. I brought it into the local bike shop today and the mechanic told me the crankset would be hard to replace because new MTB cranksets have wider spacing than my 9-year old bike's. He thinks the cogs will need to be replaced one at a time. This is apparently a lot more expensive than just buying a whole new crankset.
Bikepedia says the crankset that came with the bike is a "SunRace Accura, 22/32/42 teeth" - I haven't been able to find this item online anywhere. I did find a Shimano Alivio crankset with the same size cogs on Amazon (here) but I don't know if the thing will be compatible with my bike.
I'd also like to get new Acera front and rear derailleurs so the whole undercarriage of my bike will be new.
How do I know if a crankset I find online is going to be compatible with my bike? And how do I know if the front derailleur will be compatible with a given crankset?
Thanks in advance!
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That's a pretty low end bike to be buying parts for a la carte.
As far as I can tell that new crank you're looking at needs a BB with a 113mm spindle. You might be able to determine your current BB's spindle length with some calipers, or by removing the BB to look for labeling.
Your front derailer probably doesn't need replacing, unless it's been injured or the bike's been left out in the elements for a few years.
As far as I can tell that new crank you're looking at needs a BB with a 113mm spindle. You might be able to determine your current BB's spindle length with some calipers, or by removing the BB to look for labeling.
Your front derailer probably doesn't need replacing, unless it's been injured or the bike's been left out in the elements for a few years.
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You'll need a new bottom bracket (BB) to go with a new crankset. That Shimano Alivio crankset is apparently available in two types: one that is compatible with a "square-taper" BB and one that is compatible with an Octalink V2 BB. These are two slightly different systems with different advantages. You can find both cranks here. According to this Shimano document, you'll need either this Octalink V2(68X118mm) or this square taper BB(68X113mm). I'm taking this off Shimano's pdf, with the assumption that your BB is English threaded.
Unless they're dead, I'd skip replacing the derailleurs. With the cranks, BB, chain and cassette, you'll have spent enough money. In addition, your cables/housings may also be in need of replacement. Spend what you need to spend.
Unless they're dead, I'd skip replacing the derailleurs. With the cranks, BB, chain and cassette, you'll have spent enough money. In addition, your cables/housings may also be in need of replacement. Spend what you need to spend.
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Desertdork, thanks for the research. It sounds good, but the Bikepedia page lists my bottom bracket's spindle as being 102mm. Maybe this is the narrower width the bike mechanic was referring to? Or can the spindle length be whatever length, as long as it matches the crankset?
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If I was you, don't replace anything unless it's totally trashed. Just over haul everything and you'll be all set.
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Desertdork, thanks for the research. It sounds good, but the Bikepedia page lists my bottom bracket's spindle as being 102mm. Maybe this is the narrower width the bike mechanic was referring to? Or can the spindle length be whatever length, as long as it matches the crankset?
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It would be cheaper to buy a donor rigid mtb off the local CL, and use it as a parts donor. I just picked up a clean Giant mtb for $30 - wanna buy the drivetrain?
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So what exactly is wrong with the crankset that it needs replacement? Same for the derailleurs...
I could see maybe you've got an old worn chain and cassette on a well-used bike more than it needs new derailleurs/cranks....and I sure wouldn't spend a lot of money replacing the whole drivetrain.
I could see maybe you've got an old worn chain and cassette on a well-used bike more than it needs new derailleurs/cranks....and I sure wouldn't spend a lot of money replacing the whole drivetrain.
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So what exactly is wrong with the crankset that it needs replacement? Same for the derailleurs...
I could see maybe you've got an old worn chain and cassette on a well-used bike more than it needs new derailleurs/cranks....and I sure wouldn't spend a lot of money replacing the whole drivetrain.
I could see maybe you've got an old worn chain and cassette on a well-used bike more than it needs new derailleurs/cranks....and I sure wouldn't spend a lot of money replacing the whole drivetrain.
I'd just received this bike in the mail. I just joined the Army, and I had my former roommate send it out to me. When I put the chain back together, I think I put the rivet in either too far or not enough. I was riding it home this afternoon and the rivet started coming undone, and then caught in the rear derailleur, which was ripped off the bike. So now I've got the problem I was describing before, plus a busted rear derailleur hanger.
As for why: I got this bike 8 years ago and I've had other, more expensive ones, but I really like this one. So, I'd like to replace the drivetrain and hopefully get another 8 years of riding out of it. I'm looking at about $90 in parts from desertdork's suggestions, which is a lot less than the $300 I'd need to spend to get a new ride with equivalent specs. What do you think?
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The chain was slipping, but only when I put medium-to-hard pressure on the pedals (as in normal acceleration from a stop). I did the research and found out that this is what happens when the chain stretches and the teeth wear out. The bike mechanic agreed. I also had him put reinforced, goo-filled tires in. I'm in southern Arizona, where the goat heads apparently shred everyone's tires. So, I've just invested some money into the damned thing.
I'd just received this bike in the mail. I just joined the Army, and I had my former roommate send it out to me. When I put the chain back together, I think I put the rivet in either too far or not enough. I was riding it home this afternoon and the rivet started coming undone, and then caught in the rear derailleur, which was ripped off the bike. So now I've got the problem I was describing before, plus a busted rear derailleur hanger.
As for why: I got this bike 8 years ago and I've had other, more expensive ones, but I really like this one. So, I'd like to replace the drivetrain and hopefully get another 8 years of riding out of it. I'm looking at about $90 in parts from desertdork's suggestions, which is a lot less than the $300 I'd need to spend to get a new ride with equivalent specs. What do you think?
I'd just received this bike in the mail. I just joined the Army, and I had my former roommate send it out to me. When I put the chain back together, I think I put the rivet in either too far or not enough. I was riding it home this afternoon and the rivet started coming undone, and then caught in the rear derailleur, which was ripped off the bike. So now I've got the problem I was describing before, plus a busted rear derailleur hanger.
As for why: I got this bike 8 years ago and I've had other, more expensive ones, but I really like this one. So, I'd like to replace the drivetrain and hopefully get another 8 years of riding out of it. I'm looking at about $90 in parts from desertdork's suggestions, which is a lot less than the $300 I'd need to spend to get a new ride with equivalent specs. What do you think?
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The chainrings are replaceable. But can I get three chainrings for cheaper than the $50 it would cost to get a new crankset?
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That indeed could be the dividing line...if you need all three. Crank and bb don't forget (not likely to find another crank using a 102 spindle too easily if your bb doesn't need replacement). This is a good deal on a crank with bb https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...t.aspx?sc=FRGL.
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Hello everyone,
I'm looking for a crankset for an older MTB and I need to get a sanity check/second opinion on what my bike mechanic is telling me.
I've got an old Univega Acera 400 (Bikepedia stats) that's overdue for a drivetrain replacement. I brought it into the local bike shop today and the mechanic told me the crankset would be hard to replace because new MTB cranksets have wider spacing than my 9-year old bike's. He thinks the cogs will need to be replaced one at a time. This is apparently a lot more expensive than just buying a whole new crankset.
Bikepedia says the crankset that came with the bike is a "SunRace Accura, 22/32/42 teeth" - I haven't been able to find this item online anywhere. I did find a Shimano Alivio crankset with the same size cogs on Amazon (here) but I don't know if the thing will be compatible with my bike.
I'd also like to get new Acera front and rear derailleurs so the whole undercarriage of my bike will be new.
How do I know if a crankset I find online is going to be compatible with my bike? And how do I know if the front derailleur will be compatible with a given crankset?
Thanks in advance!
I'm looking for a crankset for an older MTB and I need to get a sanity check/second opinion on what my bike mechanic is telling me.
I've got an old Univega Acera 400 (Bikepedia stats) that's overdue for a drivetrain replacement. I brought it into the local bike shop today and the mechanic told me the crankset would be hard to replace because new MTB cranksets have wider spacing than my 9-year old bike's. He thinks the cogs will need to be replaced one at a time. This is apparently a lot more expensive than just buying a whole new crankset.
Bikepedia says the crankset that came with the bike is a "SunRace Accura, 22/32/42 teeth" - I haven't been able to find this item online anywhere. I did find a Shimano Alivio crankset with the same size cogs on Amazon (here) but I don't know if the thing will be compatible with my bike.
I'd also like to get new Acera front and rear derailleurs so the whole undercarriage of my bike will be new.
How do I know if a crankset I find online is going to be compatible with my bike? And how do I know if the front derailleur will be compatible with a given crankset?
Thanks in advance!
The chain was slipping, but only when I put medium-to-hard pressure on the pedals (as in normal acceleration from a stop). I did the research and found out that this is what happens when the chain stretches and the teeth wear out. The bike mechanic agreed. I also had him put reinforced, goo-filled tires in. I'm in southern Arizona, where the goat heads apparently shred everyone's tires. So, I've just invested some money into the damned thing.
I'd just received this bike in the mail. I just joined the Army, and I had my former roommate send it out to me. When I put the chain back together, I think I put the rivet in either too far or not enough. I was riding it home this afternoon and the rivet started coming undone, and then caught in the rear derailleur, which was ripped off the bike. So now I've got the problem I was describing before, plus a busted rear derailleur hanger.
As for why: I got this bike 8 years ago and I've had other, more expensive ones, but I really like this one. So, I'd like to replace the drivetrain and hopefully get another 8 years of riding out of it. I'm looking at about $90 in parts from desertdork's suggestions, which is a lot less than the $300 I'd need to spend to get a new ride with equivalent specs. What do you think?
I'd just received this bike in the mail. I just joined the Army, and I had my former roommate send it out to me. When I put the chain back together, I think I put the rivet in either too far or not enough. I was riding it home this afternoon and the rivet started coming undone, and then caught in the rear derailleur, which was ripped off the bike. So now I've got the problem I was describing before, plus a busted rear derailleur hanger.
As for why: I got this bike 8 years ago and I've had other, more expensive ones, but I really like this one. So, I'd like to replace the drivetrain and hopefully get another 8 years of riding out of it. I'm looking at about $90 in parts from desertdork's suggestions, which is a lot less than the $300 I'd need to spend to get a new ride with equivalent specs. What do you think?
I'd suggest addressing the chain slipping problem first. Get a new cassette (or freewheel) and a new chain. Those are relatively cheap fixes. You don't need to spend more than around $30 to $45 to fix that problem.
Keep the crank and change the derailers if you want. Those are pretty cheap fixes too but more expensive than a chain/cassette. You could even step up a level or two in quality. Go with a LX derailer. Good price with good quality.
they need replacement. But if they are fairly symmetrical in shape, they are fine. You'll likely find some of the teeth are appear flattened. This is normal too. It aids in picking up the chain for crisper shifts.
Keep the crank and concentrate on fixing the problem
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Here's what the crankset looks like:
Looks to me like the two outer rings need replacing (and the whole thing needs cleaned up). What do you think?
The thing is, all the chainrings I'm finding are $25 apiece. This makes me think I might as well get the crankset/bb combo desertdork linked above, which will cost $50. Then I can get a cassette and a chain for about $20 each, for a total of $90.
Looks to me like the two outer rings need replacing (and the whole thing needs cleaned up). What do you think?
The thing is, all the chainrings I'm finding are $25 apiece. This makes me think I might as well get the crankset/bb combo desertdork linked above, which will cost $50. Then I can get a cassette and a chain for about $20 each, for a total of $90.
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Here's what the crankset looks like:
Looks to me like the two outer rings need replacing (and the whole thing needs cleaned up). What do you think?
The thing is, all the chainrings I'm finding are $25 apiece. This makes me think I might as well get the crankset/bb combo desertdork linked above, which will cost $50. Then I can get a cassette and a chain for about $20 each, for a total of $90.
Looks to me like the two outer rings need replacing (and the whole thing needs cleaned up). What do you think?
The thing is, all the chainrings I'm finding are $25 apiece. This makes me think I might as well get the crankset/bb combo desertdork linked above, which will cost $50. Then I can get a cassette and a chain for about $20 each, for a total of $90.
That isn't a Sunrace crank. The Bikepedia listing for your Univega should be a 4 bolt 104mm bolt circle diameter (BCD). But that's a Shimano STX crank which dates from 1995 to 1999. Is it a replacement? Those were 95/58mm BCD (for the most part). Look here for good selection or try googling "chainrings 94mm". I may have some in my parts been that I'll never use. Let me check tonight.
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Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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STX is definitely a step up from stock!
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It is a replacement! My apologies for not mentioning this - I had some kind of issue when I first bought the bike and the store owner hooked me up with the STX crankset. The bike actually has a lot of upgraded/replaced parts (the rear wheel is a rhyno lite with a deore hub, the brakes are newer shimanos, I don't know what model), which is one reason I want to hang on to it. It's my beloved frankenbike.
I measured between two of the crankset's bolts and they were 55mm apart, which according to this chart, means it's a BCD of 94mm - just as you said, cyccommute. If I buy the outer two rings new, it's going to end up costing me about $50, but I guess it'll be an easier operation putting them on, right?
I measured between two of the crankset's bolts and they were 55mm apart, which according to this chart, means it's a BCD of 94mm - just as you said, cyccommute. If I buy the outer two rings new, it's going to end up costing me about $50, but I guess it'll be an easier operation putting them on, right?
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It is a replacement! My apologies for not mentioning this - I had some kind of issue when I first bought the bike and the store owner hooked me up with the STX crankset. The bike actually has a lot of upgraded/replaced parts (the rear wheel is a rhyno lite with a deore hub, the brakes are newer shimanos, I don't know what model), which is one reason I want to hang on to it. It's my beloved frankenbike.
I measured between two of the crankset's bolts and they were 55mm apart, which according to this chart, means it's a BCD of 94mm - just as you said, cyccommute. If I buy the outer two rings new, it's going to end up costing me about $50, but I guess it'll be an easier operation putting them on, right?
I measured between two of the crankset's bolts and they were 55mm apart, which according to this chart, means it's a BCD of 94mm - just as you said, cyccommute. If I buy the outer two rings new, it's going to end up costing me about $50, but I guess it'll be an easier operation putting them on, right?
Unless you are having the shop do the work (it's pretty easy to change rings), look around some more for rings. Cambria has a 42 outer for $5. You can find inners for around the same.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!