politicalgeek

Tried searching through BF. I can come up with threads on the Cyclocross and Touring frame builds, but nothing on the road bike.

Might be moving closer to the city in the near future. The ride in would be more doable than now (20+ miles now, higher speed narrow country roads, no trail access and a freeway crossing vs. more residential roads, trail access and a 14-16 mile commute w/bus access). I love the way my mountain bike is setup for riding in the city with the 1x8 drive, slick tires and drop bars. But I know it's a bit kludgy for longer rides. Started pricing out a build for the Nashbar frame and it looks far more within my budget than current production and what is carried locally. I'd probably end up switching out half the parts anyways.

I'm looking at mostly using NOS/used parts off Ebay and the Co-Op to get started and keep things down.

Anyone build this frame up and have comments?

Grim

I was looking at the cross frame because it would handle disc brakes. It also has the braze-ons for fenders and racks. After doing the math even with used parts I quickly realized I was at the price I could get a Novara Buzz after the 20% off deals that REI offers.

The road frame does not have the braze-ons It is a Road bike first. So if you want a rack you are goign to need a post or use ugly p-clips to get it to work. Thats where I see a problem with that frame. If you are good with traveling light then go for it.



Personally If you have a active CL in your area I'd be watching for a C-Dale or newer Trek as a starting point. What you replace you can always e-bay the old parts you didn't use. You should be able to get a decent complete bike for close to $200 and you will probably get decent wheels and decent derailleurs for that price. STI equiped bikes you can find for $300 from time to time.

For Commuting I'd also consider going with a Sport (or Touring) over race (the Nash frame is a race/crit geometry). Sport frames will usually have a bit long chain stay and braze ons for fender and most of the time for a rack. I also would not rule out vintage steel frames. When running thin tires a steel frame really does smooth out the ride. You get into larger tires like 32's the aluminum is not that harsh. 700x23..it is going to buzz. I have two very simular bikes and have 700x28 on one and 700x35 on the other and the ride is dramatically different.

I have built two bikes up in the same way you are talking about and came up with great bikes for under $500 both times.

My one C-dale T700 I picked up for $220 and picked up Tiagra 9speed brifters, Octalink cranks, SRam gears and 105 derailleurs for $140. I ride the hell out of that bike and it is now basically the same as a C-Dale Touring II that goes for $1400. (it now wears the 105's and 700x28's and is my summer good weather bike)

My second T700 I picked up for $330 but it came with 8 Speed RSX brifters that I used on another project and I again found 9 speed brifters for $120 that came with the 105 Derailleurs. (now has the Tiagras and 700x35 more the bad weather with fenders and racks for winter) All CL finds.

You can do it on the cheap but it will take time.

politicalgeek

Our Craigslist tends to suck. Lots of Walmart, Target type bikes for $100+. When the nicer stuff comes up, it's usually pretty overpriced. Even the vintage steel is typically over priced for the dime a dozen bike boom frames.

I plugged all the estimates for parts and frame on Excel and got a little over $500 and change. Most of the estimates were on the high side. I'm going to head to the co-op in a bit to see what they have in the parts bin. Plan on running a 1x8/9 setup. Might still look at their cross bike or the touring frame if it ever goes back on the site.

I have a saddle bag and seatpost support I am using now that works well for me. I'll probably move it over.

dwr1961

If you're handy enough to build up a frame, then get a BD bike. Disassemble it, re-grease and re-torque everything, and true-up the wheels. I think you'll do better cost-wise than trying to build up the Nashbar frame.

I built up a Nashbar CX frame (the older one with 135mm rear spacing). It has Avid BB7's, Mavic 317's with XT hubs, Ultegra drivetrain, Dura Ace barends, Cane Creek SCR 5's, a Brooks B17, etc... I had many parts lying around for the build, but it still ran me more money than buying a complete bike. Even so, I love it.

If cost is a major factor for you, I'd discourage building from a bare frame. If getting exactly what you want is most important, then the frame-up build is the way to go.

politicalgeek

Like I said, I priced everything out last night, estimating high. So I'll use that as a guide as I shop for parts and keep things under budget. I think part of the appeal is getting exactly what I want. I love the 1x8 setup I currently have and would like to replicate that, keeping things simple. I have a feeling I'd be stripping a lot off any bike I get complete.

Commodus

If you wouldn't mind, keep us up to date on the build. I'm interested to see how you can build a bike for under $500, even with a 1x9 drivetrain. What are you going to use for a shifter? And what are you thinking for wheels?

politicalgeek

Mostly using NOS and other ebay/craiglist/co-op finds. There are a number of good parts going for $10-15 that I am watching. Just picked up a Shimano crankset for $25 including the shipping with a 44T chain ring. Plan on using friction shifting, either bar end or downtube.

Wheels will be the tricky part. If I can keep the rest under budget, it should be easier. I know you can find some decent wheels/sets and rims/hubs on Ebay. Might try my hand at wheel building.

I need to figure out my frame sizing in the coming weeks and keep an eye on nashbar's sales.

I think part of the reason I can (or think I can) keep this under $500 is I am not concerned about super high end parts. Still going to be riding this a local college and other parts of town where inside storage isn't available. Part of the appeal of a no brand bike.

JimJimex

Built a Nashbar Fram'e Road Frame in 2007 when it was at $79. Pretty good stuff.
Its beautiful paintjob (Powder coated, then clear-coat) is TOP NOTCH for its price.
The decal on the headbadge location can be easily removed.

My 56cm frame comes in at ~3.3lb. The following are the major components

Nashbar Road Frame
Tange CrMo Road Fork
Neuvation M28 Aero 2 Wheelset
Shimano Sora 7 Speed STI Brake/Shift Levers
Shimano Tiagra Triple Front Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra RD-6500-GS 9 Speed Rear Derailleur
Truvativ GXP Rouleur GXP crankset 172.5 53/39t
Truvativ 68x118mm Bottom Bracket
Nashbar 7 Speed Cassette 12-28t, with 8 to 7 spacer
Origin 8 Leather Saddle
Nashbar 27.2 x 300mm Seatpost
Nashbar Lite 7079 Road Drop Handlebar 26.0mm 42cm

At the end of the day the whole bike cost me ~$650, and weights in at 20.7 pounds.

stringbreaker

Sounds like you have good mechanical ability. I got this in April and I really love this bike. Be aware the brakes pads suck and so do the pedals. I changed them out for Kool-Stops and a decent pair of platform grippy things from my LBS. Wheels will need to be trued and after the cables stretch after a few miles the brake and derailleurs need to be adjusted. All in all nice commuter/tourer and its steel and won't break the bank. I can never find anything in my size on C/L so I opted for this. I am not sorry.Free shippint to the lower 48 and I paid not tax also a good thing. https://bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

politicalgeek

Not so much that I am good at mechanics, I just want to learn and this is the way I do it best.

Thanks for the thoughts, I'll be sure to keep people updated.

stringbreaker

Well the BD bike was mostly put together except mounting the front wheel and installing the handlebar and hooking up the brakes. If you do the initial assembly take it to your LBS and for a fee (depends on your shop) they will give it a good going over. The front wheel bearings on mine were too tight and I adjusted the cones and also the headset was too snug. These are things to talk over with them if you go that route. Good luck on whatever you decide and have fun thats the most important thing.

nycbianchi

Politicalgeek, I did exactly what you're proposing and I'm pretty happy with the results. I bought the Nashbar road frame marked down to $99, with a 10% discount, and built it up using old crappy parts that I had laying around. I've been using it as a commuting bike for a couple of months now and I'm really happy with it. Here are some observations based on my experience:

• It does have eyelets on the rear drops for a rack. You just need to buy a seat post clamp with an integrated rack mount; costs about $10 (see below for an example)
• It does not have brazes (or clearance, probably) for fenders, but I bought some SKS Race Blade fenders that work pretty well.
• The finish is really nice, and has been pretty durable (so far) in terms of chips and scratches from being locked up various places.
• Even though I had all the parts, it still cost more than I'd anticipated. A couple of cable guides, an unexpected tool, 'soft' items like cable housings and bar tape, it all adds up.
• Assembling the bike from scratch was one of the most satisfying projects I've ever done.

I'll see if I can find a photo of the bike. In the meantime here's an example of the seat post clamp you will need:

nycbianchi

Here's a not-very-good photo of the bike. It wasn't completely finished when I took it. (You can still see the untrimmed cables!) You can see the classic lines, though. Great, simple frame. I actually get compliments from other commuters who think it's some custom frame or something.

I'll try to find (or take) a better photo now that she's complete, with rear rack, pannier, and fenders.

IMG00054-20100110-1&.jpg

politicalgeek

Sweet, thanks for the pictures.

So far I've got a pair of hubs/cassette off ebay, as well as the crankset. Watching a few other auctions and keeping an eye on local CL.

I have a Viva saddle bag support that clamps onto the seatpost on the current bike which I'll swap over and a Zimbale saddle bag. Will also swap the Velo-Orange saddle bag over. Will probably be more a fair weather bike but I've looked at the race blade type fenders. Have a pair of those older shorty metal ones that are more for looks but I might put those on.

Anyone have thoughts on this fork (or used it?) from NYC bikes?

politicalgeek

I think it's a good sign that the same week I start thinking of this project, the price drops to $99 and another sale goes up today for 20% off orders over $50

sc0ch

If you go with nashbar, don't commute on the Alu-C frame. Mine cracked after three months. That said, they provided a full refund.

politicalgeek

I'm just going with the standard aluminum road frame, no carbon. Headed to one of the local shops in a bit to figure out frame sizing.

nycbianchi

The frames run pretty big. (They are standard frames, not compact, which is part of what makes their lines so simple and appealing.) I ordered a 56 and it's definitely bigger than I'd like.

politicalgeek

They suggested either the 56 or 58 for me and leaned towards the 58.

politicalgeek

Got the frame today. Really impressed with the quick shipping. Frame looks great. Can't wait to start.

Grim

That does look decent. Maybe thats what I should do with this Rust bucket Dave Scott Expert Centurion I have....that is if I can get the seat post and stem out.

Why do people leave high end bikes in the weather.

waynesworld

Nice looking frame.

BTW, as far as the local craigslist, there recently was a nice looking Kona Jake on there for $200 in size 56. I talked to the guy about it, but we decided it was probably a size too big for me. Might have been right for you. If it was a 54, I'd have bought it in a minute.

Looking forward to seeing pics of the completed bike. Or maybe even seeing it somewhere here in central Ohio

politicalgeek

Just waiting to scrounge parts at the moment.

So far I have the crankset and pedals. Waiting for my hubs to come so I can figure out the rest of the wheel build. Also waiting on the fork. I went with the NYC Bikes one, so when it gets here I'll spend some time with the spray paint can to finish the fork.

I'm excited.

nycbianchi

I went with some Ambrosio rims based on BF recommendations. Very happy with them.

nycbianchi

Here's what my final product looks like, by the way...
IMG00232-20100615-1346..jpg