The best commuter bike for the tiniest commuter person
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The best commuter bike for the tiniest commuter person
Hey all,
After years of riding 60-year-old department store children's step-throughs, I'm finally looking to build my first new, adult commuter.
One problem: I'm 4'11", with a 27" inseam. After a whole lot of research regarding what I want and need (ED-coated double-butted CroMo, 700c for accessibility, wide tire clearance for winter tires with fenders, single speed/fixed gear capabilities, the ability to survive cobblestones, city traffic, and salted roads, a $700 to $1000 price range, and something that looks boring enough to be ignored by Montreal bike thieves while still making my own heart pitter-patter), I test rode a 42cm Surly Cross Check at my LBS. I found the ride comfortable and much faster than what I'm used to, and am seriously considering buying one, but I'm worried about the fact that I can't stand flat-footed over the top tube.
In your experience, how important is standover height for a city commute? Particularly in wintry conditions? Should I consider the Straggler 650b in 38cm, and just suck it up when it comes to tire variety? Are there other frames on the market now that I should be considering, that meet the needs stated above? Thanks!
After years of riding 60-year-old department store children's step-throughs, I'm finally looking to build my first new, adult commuter.
One problem: I'm 4'11", with a 27" inseam. After a whole lot of research regarding what I want and need (ED-coated double-butted CroMo, 700c for accessibility, wide tire clearance for winter tires with fenders, single speed/fixed gear capabilities, the ability to survive cobblestones, city traffic, and salted roads, a $700 to $1000 price range, and something that looks boring enough to be ignored by Montreal bike thieves while still making my own heart pitter-patter), I test rode a 42cm Surly Cross Check at my LBS. I found the ride comfortable and much faster than what I'm used to, and am seriously considering buying one, but I'm worried about the fact that I can't stand flat-footed over the top tube.
In your experience, how important is standover height for a city commute? Particularly in wintry conditions? Should I consider the Straggler 650b in 38cm, and just suck it up when it comes to tire variety? Are there other frames on the market now that I should be considering, that meet the needs stated above? Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 888
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Why wouldn't you consider a mixte frame?
Maybe, you can find an old one. But most old Japanese mixtes had sizes around 49-51cm.
This one is available in the 44cm size. Though, the tubes are not double-butted.
Creme CafeRacer Uno Ladies 3 Speed Bike 2017 | Chain Reaction Cycles
Maybe, you can find an old one. But most old Japanese mixtes had sizes around 49-51cm.
This one is available in the 44cm size. Though, the tubes are not double-butted.
Creme CafeRacer Uno Ladies 3 Speed Bike 2017 | Chain Reaction Cycles
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Sudan
Posts: 7
Bikes: Scott Venture 10, Giant OCR 3 C2 Composite, Norco Monterey SL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It seems to me that an appropriate standover height is extremely important on a commuter bike - imagine standing tip-toe at all of those stoplights...
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,347
Bikes: Felt TK2, Felt Z5
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times
in
19 Posts
I just sort of half sit on the top tube of the bike with my right foot still clipped in while waiting at a light. OP - don't give up the frame that you like/want because you can't stand flat footed at a light. I would learn to track stand before giving up a frame/bike that I fell in love with so I could rest at a light.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times
in
219 Posts
I'd go for a 26" wheeled bike in a heartbeat with that shopping list. For summer tires, IMO you can't beat Hutchinson Top Slick, and it's available as 26X1", there's Conti Sport Contact, Geax Street Runner, and probably some others.
Winter tires, also a good selection. Suomityres, Schwalbe, Kenda all do 26" studded in various stud counts.
You'll have no problem with standover or fender clearance.
Then again, I'm notoriously unfaithful WRT bike specifics.
I ride aluminium and steel, and CF when I can get it, all with the same happy unconcern of what's there.
A good ride is a good ride, regardless of molecules and wheel size.
Fit, function and cost are my priorities.
Did my first years of commuting on an aluminum frame, with plenty of salted roads (I do 6000+ miles/year, so maybe 2000/year on salted roads), and nothing bad ever came out of that as far as frame/fork was concerned.)
The post in general looks like you're more concerned with the recipe than the meal, which probably makes your search more difficult than it'd need to be.
Winter tires, also a good selection. Suomityres, Schwalbe, Kenda all do 26" studded in various stud counts.
You'll have no problem with standover or fender clearance.
Then again, I'm notoriously unfaithful WRT bike specifics.
I ride aluminium and steel, and CF when I can get it, all with the same happy unconcern of what's there.
A good ride is a good ride, regardless of molecules and wheel size.
Fit, function and cost are my priorities.
Did my first years of commuting on an aluminum frame, with plenty of salted roads (I do 6000+ miles/year, so maybe 2000/year on salted roads), and nothing bad ever came out of that as far as frame/fork was concerned.)
The post in general looks like you're more concerned with the recipe than the meal, which probably makes your search more difficult than it'd need to be.
Likes For dabac:
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,527
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17512 Post(s)
Liked 4,136 Times
in
3,074 Posts
I just sort of half sit on the top tube of the bike with my right foot still clipped in while waiting at a light. OP - don't give up the frame that you like/want because you can't stand flat footed at a light. I would learn to track stand before giving up a frame/bike that I fell in love with so I could rest at a light.
However, also look for something that "fits" right before settling on the wrong bike.
I have a couple of friends < 5'. They fit best on 24" wheel MTBs. But that might limit you to kids bike frames. They can also fit on 26" wheel MTBs, but they do seem a tad on the large side.
One option might be to find a decent used MTB, then strip it (paint if necessary), then add nicer components to build the bike to your own specs. Even get custom lightweight wheels made if you wish.
There are also quite a few 650c based road bikes. Kid's bikes like the Fuji Ace 650, but also some nicer bikes. I'm not sure about tire sizes and fender clearances. Maybe build a road bike for the summer and a MTB based bike for winter commuting.
Trek has made some WSD 650c bikes in the past, although they may be mostly 700c bikes now.
Terry also has some "unique" bikes that would be worth looking at. Terry also used to make a 700c rear, 650c front bike, and I think the design was copied by at least one other manufacturer. Maybe not new, but those bikes still show up used.
Likes For CliffordK:
#7
Proud hobo biker
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Schertz - New Braunfels area
Posts: 804
Bikes: 2019 Surly Ogre, 2016 Giant Anyroad 2, Lightspeed Roadrunner trike, SE Tripel (in process)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 202 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I'm very short legged (6' tall with a 32" inseam). I ride a large frame on most bikes including my commuter, the Giant Escape, and the standover height is so that I am on my tiptoes when I stop. It's not a big deal once you get used to it.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'd go for a 26" wheeled bike in a heartbeat with that shopping list. For summer tires, IMO you can't beat Hutchinson Top Slick, and it's available as 26X1", there's Conti Sport Contact, Geax Street Runner, and probably some others.
Winter tires, also a good selection. Suomityres, Schwalbe, Kenda all do 26" studded in various stud counts.
You'll have no problem with standover or fender clearance.
Then again, I'm notoriously unfaithful WRT bike specifics.
I ride aluminium and steel, and CF when I can get it, all with the same happy unconcern of what's there.
A good ride is a good ride, regardless of molecules and wheel size.
Fit, function and cost are my priorities.
Did my first years of commuting on an aluminum frame, with plenty of salted roads (I do 6000+ miles/year, so maybe 2000/year on salted roads), and nothing bad ever came out of that as far as frame/fork was concerned.)
The post in general looks like you're more concerned with the recipe than the meal, which probably makes your search more difficult than it'd need to be.
Winter tires, also a good selection. Suomityres, Schwalbe, Kenda all do 26" studded in various stud counts.
You'll have no problem with standover or fender clearance.
Then again, I'm notoriously unfaithful WRT bike specifics.
I ride aluminium and steel, and CF when I can get it, all with the same happy unconcern of what's there.
A good ride is a good ride, regardless of molecules and wheel size.
Fit, function and cost are my priorities.
Did my first years of commuting on an aluminum frame, with plenty of salted roads (I do 6000+ miles/year, so maybe 2000/year on salted roads), and nothing bad ever came out of that as far as frame/fork was concerned.)
The post in general looks like you're more concerned with the recipe than the meal, which probably makes your search more difficult than it'd need to be.
I agree that a good bike is a good bike, specs be darned. My bias toward steel is that my favorite rides have been on steel bikes--so far. I'm sure there's an aluminum bike out there that I would want to ride every day, day in and day out, but I haven't found it yet.
#9
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,819
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 568 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1889 Post(s)
Liked 506 Times
in
305 Posts
No. 650b is a slightly smaller than normal rim that takes a larger than normal tire, and does not effectively reduce the wheel size, or certainly not much. You might consider 650c, which is an even smaller rim that takes narrow tires, for an effectively smaller wheel, but 650c bikes tend to be racy, so not really a good option.
The problem with big wheels (650a, 650b, 700c, 27", etc), for a small person, is that you cannot get the handlebar low enough for an efficient riding position.
26" --the mountain bike size, not the English 3-speed size (26 x 1 3/8", also known as 650a; there are actually five different rim sizes that are all called "twenty six inch") is a good wheel size for a relatively small person, but I don't know what frame I'd recommend with that. Possibly an older mountain bike with no suspension, but they tend to be built long, with a high bottom bracket, so they tend to fit like a larger frame.
I have seen older bikes made for 24" wheels that actually fit 26" wheels quite nicely; but putting one of those together might be quite a project.
The problem with big wheels (650a, 650b, 700c, 27", etc), for a small person, is that you cannot get the handlebar low enough for an efficient riding position.
26" --the mountain bike size, not the English 3-speed size (26 x 1 3/8", also known as 650a; there are actually five different rim sizes that are all called "twenty six inch") is a good wheel size for a relatively small person, but I don't know what frame I'd recommend with that. Possibly an older mountain bike with no suspension, but they tend to be built long, with a high bottom bracket, so they tend to fit like a larger frame.
I have seen older bikes made for 24" wheels that actually fit 26" wheels quite nicely; but putting one of those together might be quite a project.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
Last edited by rhm; 04-19-17 at 07:13 AM.
Likes For rhm:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: California, USA
Posts: 113
Bikes: 2011 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2014 Raleigh Sojourn, et al
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I just sort of half sit on the top tube of the bike with my right foot still clipped in while waiting at a light. OP - don't give up the frame that you like/want because you can't stand flat footed at a light. I would learn to track stand before giving up a frame/bike that I fell in love with so I could rest at a light.
Top tube clearance is over rated. I tilt my bike slightly at stoplights and have been doing so for years. No biggie.
The mixte suggestion is also a very good one. You may want an LBS mechanic to really dial it in for you, maybe with a few modern conveniences...if you like modern conveniences.
You can get a brand new mixte from Rivendell but it might be more than you want to pay and it may be attractive to thieves...but it would be a delightful bike.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
26" --the mountain bike size, not the English 3-speed size (26 x 1 3/8", also known as 650a; there are actually five different rim sizes that are all called "twenty six inch") is a good wheel size for a relatively small person, but I don't know what frame I'd recommend with that. Possibly an older mountain bike with no suspension, but they tend to be built long, with a high bottom bracket, so they tend to fit like a larger frame.
I have seen older bikes made for 24" wheels that actually fit 26" wheels quite nicely; but putting one of those together might be quite a project.
I have seen older bikes made for 24" wheels that actually fit 26" wheels quite nicely; but putting one of those together might be quite a project.
And the longness was a big part of why I nixed building off of an '80s-90s mountain bike frame--I might get the standover height, but reach never looks comfortable for the riding I'd like to do. And I like projects plenty, but finding a dependable 24" vintage frame I like and then building it up with 26" wheels sounds like it might border on an ordeal.
#12
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,561
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Timberjack, Expert TG, Samba tandem
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3028 Post(s)
Liked 1,964 Times
in
1,278 Posts
There are better-than-department-store kid bikes, too. And you could start with one of those and make it a lot nicer although projects like that are not usually cost effective compared to a complete bike.
https://www.islabikes.com/size-guide/ just for an example
https://www.islabikes.com/size-guide/ just for an example

__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 04-19-17 at 07:56 AM.
#13
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,819
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 568 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1889 Post(s)
Liked 506 Times
in
305 Posts
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
The sizes I had in mind are as follows:
559 mm, 26 x 1.75 [or almost any number expressed as a decimal] = the mountain bike or cruiser size.
571 mm, 26 x 1, more commonly called 650c.
584 mm, 26 x 1 1/2, more commonly called 650b and now also called 27 1/2 just to make things interesting

590 mm, 26 x 1 3/8, sometimes called 650a, this is the old English three speed size, also known as EA3.
597 mm, 26 x 1 3/8 if it's a Schwinn, or 26 x 1/4 if it's an old English racing bike, also known as EA1
All of the above tire sizes are still made, and rims of all but the last one are still made. There are also obsolete 26" sizes, but let's not get too far into the weeds!
And the longness was a big part of why I nixed building off of an '80s-90s mountain bike frame--I might get the standover height, but reach never looks comfortable for the riding I'd like to do. And I like projects plenty, but finding a dependable 24" vintage frame I like and then building it up with 26" wheels sounds like it might border on an ordeal.
Sadly, I agree.
Something I would definitely recommend is: a folding bike. I suggest this because:
1. with their small wheels (usually 20") they are adaptable to any size rider.
2. they are made for serious commuters, and accordingly are available at a wide range of price points; you are not stuck with a cheap kid's bike if that's not what you want.
3. the market for folding bikes is now large enough that a surprising array of accessories and replacement parts are available, including high quality tires. Just sticking with the common 20" size (406 mm; there is also a larger 20" size which I would avoid), you can get tires as narrow as 1" or as wide as 2" or even bigger; you can even get studded winter tires in this size.
4. oh, yeah, and they fold up. You can take them on a commuter train at rush hour. Until you've done this, you haven't experienced true freedom!
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#14
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,561
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Timberjack, Expert TG, Samba tandem
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3028 Post(s)
Liked 1,964 Times
in
1,278 Posts
You also might want to contact Georgena Terry and see what she recommends for you.
Hand-built Steel Bicycles for Women by Georgena TerryGeorgena Terry
She does handbuilt now (via Waterford). Some of her bikes have 26" wheels and others have a 24" front and 700c rear. Her bikes were once in mass production in the late 80's, and you can find them for sale on eBay or Craigslist. They're good quality. There were Taiwan-made bikes in similar style soon thereafter which is what put her out of the bike business for a while. There was another go at mass production just a few years ago (2012). (image from Craigslist ads), the black one is the smallest original size and you can see the standover is about level with the rear the tire. The bikes also have smaller handlebars and shorter cranks.
Hand-built Steel Bicycles for Women by Georgena TerryGeorgena Terry
She does handbuilt now (via Waterford). Some of her bikes have 26" wheels and others have a 24" front and 700c rear. Her bikes were once in mass production in the late 80's, and you can find them for sale on eBay or Craigslist. They're good quality. There were Taiwan-made bikes in similar style soon thereafter which is what put her out of the bike business for a while. There was another go at mass production just a few years ago (2012). (image from Craigslist ads), the black one is the smallest original size and you can see the standover is about level with the rear the tire. The bikes also have smaller handlebars and shorter cranks.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 04-19-17 at 11:50 AM.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersry the beautiful Garden State
Posts: 1,942
Bikes: 2007 Ridley Excalibur, 2003 Orbea Orca, 199? Cannondale Headshock MTB hardtail
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 520 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
10 Posts
I'll echo what @dabac said about about an MTB with 26-inch wheels. You could shop for a kids hardtail MTB. Then change the tires to thinner slicks and lock out the shock fork (if possible). Only drawback is that you will probably have a hard time finding one with a regular fork.
#16
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,012
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked 2,959 Times
in
2,160 Posts
I will also echo the recommendation for a 26" mtb. Regardless of size, the #1 recommendation around here for 'what bike should I start commuting on' is to shop your local craigslist for a 90's era rigid-fork mountain bike, and put slick tires on it. This will get you steel, so that's good, it will probably have mounts for a rack.
Don't fret yourself about the 5-different varieties of 26"; 99.9% of them out there are good ole 26" mountain bikes.
Don't fret yourself about the 5-different varieties of 26"; 99.9% of them out there are good ole 26" mountain bikes.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 3,429
Bikes: Trident Spike 2 recumbent trike w/ e-assist
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1300 Post(s)
Liked 343 Times
in
268 Posts
Have you considered a folding bike? Bike Friday makes a super lightweight one for tinier people, custom fit to your body specs. 20" tires are great in the city, more nimble and faster starting than full size tires. And you can take it inside instead of locking it up all day, if your office allows. Brompton is also very popular with commuters. You can find them used on craigslist if you are patient. Or maybe get a mini velo if you really love a traditionally shaped frame (info on these in the folder thread).
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,737
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I recommend a kids' rigid mtb or junior road bike. They work well for smaller riders.
Most people outgrow them but someone your height would feel right at home on them.
Most people outgrow them but someone your height would feel right at home on them.
#19
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,272
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 499 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7066 Post(s)
Liked 1,917 Times
in
1,160 Posts
Biria makes some non-folding adult bikes with 20" wheels. They're very nice. 20" wheels are worth some serious consideration.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#20
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: California
Posts: 343
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I just bought a Surly LHT with 26" wheels for my latest commuter. It is available in 42–62cm frame sizes with 26" wheels. Mine came with 26 X 1.75 Continental Tour Ride tires. I think that translates to about 44mm wide. It is a very comfortable bike to ride. I had a dyno hub front wheel built for it and added VO aluminum fenders and a Tubus rack in the back and replaced the bars with a Nitto Noodle. It was about double your price range after all the modifications though.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,044
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 174 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5693 Post(s)
Liked 2,966 Times
in
1,818 Posts
Thanks for the recommendation on wheels--26" isn't something I'd really considered, as it seems to be mostly the domain of mountain bikes, although I did briefly consider building up a vintage mtb for this. Are there any new frames you'd recommend looking into?
I agree that a good bike is a good bike, specs be darned. My bias toward steel is that my favorite rides have been on steel bikes--so far. I'm sure there's an aluminum bike out there that I would want to ride every day, day in and day out, but I haven't found it yet.
I agree that a good bike is a good bike, specs be darned. My bias toward steel is that my favorite rides have been on steel bikes--so far. I'm sure there's an aluminum bike out there that I would want to ride every day, day in and day out, but I haven't found it yet.
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Oh, that I could get a new Rivendell! They and Soma have some of the only new mixtes I've seen that appeal to me and would be a real upgrade from my current rides.
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Also: thanks to everyone who's mentioned Georgena Terry. I hadn't heard of her before, and I'm finding her bikes beautiful and fascinating. I don't see me getting one right away, just due to availability (eBay would be my only option right now), but they're definitely a consideration if that changes.
#24
Junior Member
Georgena Terry's design philosophy:
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 616
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times
in
26 Posts
Hey all,
After years of riding 60-year-old department store children's step-throughs, I'm finally looking to build my first new, adult commuter.
One problem: I'm 4'11", with a 27" inseam. After a whole lot of research regarding what I want and need (ED-coated double-butted CroMo, 700c for accessibility, wide tire clearance for winter tires with fenders, single speed/fixed gear capabilities, the ability to survive cobblestones, city traffic, and salted roads, a $700 to $1000 price range, and something that looks boring enough to be ignored by Montreal bike thieves while still making my own heart pitter-patter), I test rode a 42cm Surly Cross Check at my LBS. I found the ride comfortable and much faster than what I'm used to, and am seriously considering buying one, but I'm worried about the fact that I can't stand flat-footed over the top tube.
In your experience, how important is standover height for a city commute? Particularly in wintry conditions? Should I consider the Straggler 650b in 38cm, and just suck it up when it comes to tire variety? Are there other frames on the market now that I should be considering, that meet the needs stated above? Thanks!
After years of riding 60-year-old department store children's step-throughs, I'm finally looking to build my first new, adult commuter.
One problem: I'm 4'11", with a 27" inseam. After a whole lot of research regarding what I want and need (ED-coated double-butted CroMo, 700c for accessibility, wide tire clearance for winter tires with fenders, single speed/fixed gear capabilities, the ability to survive cobblestones, city traffic, and salted roads, a $700 to $1000 price range, and something that looks boring enough to be ignored by Montreal bike thieves while still making my own heart pitter-patter), I test rode a 42cm Surly Cross Check at my LBS. I found the ride comfortable and much faster than what I'm used to, and am seriously considering buying one, but I'm worried about the fact that I can't stand flat-footed over the top tube.
In your experience, how important is standover height for a city commute? Particularly in wintry conditions? Should I consider the Straggler 650b in 38cm, and just suck it up when it comes to tire variety? Are there other frames on the market now that I should be considering, that meet the needs stated above? Thanks!