The best commuter bike for the tiniest commuter person
#51
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Thanks for the recommendation on wheels--26" isn't something I'd really considered, as it seems to be mostly the domain of mountain bikes, although I did briefly consider building up a vintage mtb for this. Are there any new frames you'd recommend looking into?
I agree that a good bike is a good bike, specs be darned. My bias toward steel is that my favorite rides have been on steel bikes--so far. I'm sure there's an aluminum bike out there that I would want to ride every day, day in and day out, but I haven't found it yet.
I agree that a good bike is a good bike, specs be darned. My bias toward steel is that my favorite rides have been on steel bikes--so far. I'm sure there's an aluminum bike out there that I would want to ride every day, day in and day out, but I haven't found it yet.
#52
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There are better-than-department-store kid bikes, too. And you could start with one of those and make it a lot nicer although projects like that are not usually cost effective compared to a complete bike.
https://www.islabikes.com/size-guide/ just for an example

https://www.islabikes.com/size-guide/ just for an example

Even though I can stand flat-footed over the top tubes on my bikes, I do the tilt thing as well. Left foot is flat on the ground, right foot still on the pedal, and the bike tilted, I dunno, may 20 degrees to the left.
#53
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That bike that @cyccommute looks great. List price is $1,100, and the sale price is $400. That's insane. If it fits your body and your needs, you'd be crazy not to buy it or at least consider it. Thanks, cyccommute!


#54
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Standover seems very important. What you need is a 29er MTB frame, with a sloping top tube.
Something like a Giant Anyroad (ok, it's Al-frame, but otherwise perfect).
The Surly Troll or Ogre are basically the same but with a top-tube without clearance issues.
I have short legs for my height, and any bike with a horizontal top tube is non-starter.
Something like a Giant Anyroad (ok, it's Al-frame, but otherwise perfect).
The Surly Troll or Ogre are basically the same but with a top-tube without clearance issues.
I have short legs for my height, and any bike with a horizontal top tube is non-starter.
A 26" wheel mountain bike probably isn't going to be that great of a bike for a small person either. There are exceptions...women specific design bikes, for example...but generally, mountain bikes have proportionally longer top tubes for small frames which may not fit all that well. Tiniestbike would need a mountain bike in a sub 12" frame which and 26" wheel which are exceedingly rare, even as a used bike.
I would suggest staying as far away from steel as possible. A small, relatively light, rider doesn't need the durability of steel. But, more importantly, small steel frames are heavier relative to larger frames because they use shorter butts in the middle of the tubes so the bike ends up with more metal instead of less. The end butts need to be just about as long as a "normal" sized bike to manage the heat of welding or brazing.
An aluminum frame doesn't have the same problem. In fact, my wife's aluminum Symmetry was about 2 to 4 lbs lighter out of the box than her steel small wheeled Symmetry that it replaced. That's a significant weight savings for a small light rider.
What is really needed for small riders is carbon fiber bikes but I doubt if they are going to be coming anytime soon. A sub 14 lb bike for a 100 lb rider would be very nice but I just don't see it happening.
Still it would be a good place to start.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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#55
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I would suggest staying as far away from steel as possible. A small, relatively light, rider doesn't need the durability of steel. But, more importantly, small steel frames are heavier relative to larger frames because they use shorter butts in the middle of the tubes so the bike ends up with more metal instead of less. The end butts need to be just about as long as a "normal" sized bike to manage the heat of welding or brazing.
LIKE
BIG
BUTTsandIcannotLie
A smaller bike has butts the same size...
(somebody else can finish the song)
(Are the butts are the middle thin parts or the thicker end parts)
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I have no idea how tall you are but riding a frame that you have to "half sit on the top tube" indicates a frame that is far too large for you. The problem isn't just standover...which is far more important than most people believe...but the other proportions on the bike are wrong as well. That leads to discomfort for the rider and, eventually, to the rider not wanting to ride anymore.
I've fought the fight of finding the right frame for a small woman (my wife) for most of my life and a very large part of the battle has been trying to convince her that the 23" Sears "normal" sized frame that she grew up on was not the right size. Once she found the properly sized bike...after 30+ years of searching...she suddenly found riding to be much more enjoyable.
I've fought the fight of finding the right frame for a small woman (my wife) for most of my life and a very large part of the battle has been trying to convince her that the 23" Sears "normal" sized frame that she grew up on was not the right size. Once she found the properly sized bike...after 30+ years of searching...she suddenly found riding to be much more enjoyable.
2017 - 482 miles so far this year
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I just put together a Trek ST 820 for a lady of the same height as the OP. Forget, what size it was but I believe it was the 13" size since the seat post was almost maxed out but reach was comfortable. Swapped out the tires for some thinner slicks and it was much more enjoyable to ride on the road. She decided to use the stock flat bars since she wanted to remain more upright but I didn't see any issues with reach should she want to switch to drop bars. I did suggest swapping out to some different bars should the flat bars prove too much on the wrists.
#59
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I wouldn't call you "short legged". You are just about average. My question, however, is how you define "standover" height. Are you defining it as standing flatfooted with both feet on the ground or are you sitting in the saddle? If you have to stand on tiptoe over the frame with both feet on the ground, the frame you have is way, way, way too large. I can stand flat footed, uncomfortably, over a 62 cm frame and I have a 32" inseam. I would never ride such a frame, no matter how much I "loved" the frame, however.
However, if you are talking about standing on your tiptoes when seated in the saddle, that's not "standover" height. Frankly, my feet can't reach the ground from a seated position on any of my bikes because I couldn't get the proper leg extension if I could. When I stop, I come off the saddle (unless trackstanding) and put one foot on the ground. The saddle hits me just above my tailbone when I do that.
A "large" frame can also have many different measurements depending on the manufacturer. An actually number might be a better indicator.
A 32" inseam is exaggerating for me; closer to 31". My brother, who is 2" taller than me, has legs that are 5" longer than me, and he isn't particularly long-legged. I have a long torso and short legs. I think my Giants are 21"; anything smaller is uncomfortable. In fact, I have 120mm stems on both to extend the reach a little. I loved the reach on an old 22" Specialized I had, but standover height was an inch too high for me.
I've been riding for several years, usually over 100 miles a week and often 60+ mile rides on the weekend. While my choice of frame may not be "technically" correct, it has worked for me. (Of course, this is bikeforums and I'm sure there are plenty of posters itching to tell me how what I should be doing instead.)
#60
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Both.
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#61
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I think that you took what I said slightly off. I have plenty of stand over room waiting at a light. What I tend to do is half crouch and rest the butt on the top tube, staying clipped in on the right side. I can stand there, or just kind of half sit if it is a longer light. The bike fits me like a glove and I have it dialed in perfectly. I am 6'0" and it is a 58cm track bike with a 90mm stem. I am all torso with short short legs.
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Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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#62
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S
I would suggest staying as far away from steel as possible. A small, relatively light, rider doesn't need the durability of steel. But, more importantly, small steel frames are heavier relative to larger frames because they use shorter butts in the middle of the tubes so the bike ends up with more metal instead of less. The end butts need to be just about as long as a "normal" sized bike to manage the heat of welding or brazing.
An aluminum frame doesn't have the same problem. In fact, my wife's aluminum Symmetry was about 2 to 4 lbs lighter out of the box than her steel small wheeled Symmetry that it replaced. That's a significant weight savings for a small light rider.
What is really needed for small riders is carbon fiber bikes but I doubt if they are going to be coming anytime soon. A sub 14 lb bike for a 100 lb rider would be very nice but I just don't see it happening.
The Isla looks like a great idea with one major flaw. Small riders with their low power to weight ratio would greatly benefit from a wider range of gearing. The Isla would be a good place to start but it would need some modifications to make it better. That would be doable but it could get costly. A mountain bike triple with 44/32/22 chainring set would be ideal but that modification would cost about half again what the bike goes for.
Still it would be a good place to start.
I would suggest staying as far away from steel as possible. A small, relatively light, rider doesn't need the durability of steel. But, more importantly, small steel frames are heavier relative to larger frames because they use shorter butts in the middle of the tubes so the bike ends up with more metal instead of less. The end butts need to be just about as long as a "normal" sized bike to manage the heat of welding or brazing.
An aluminum frame doesn't have the same problem. In fact, my wife's aluminum Symmetry was about 2 to 4 lbs lighter out of the box than her steel small wheeled Symmetry that it replaced. That's a significant weight savings for a small light rider.
What is really needed for small riders is carbon fiber bikes but I doubt if they are going to be coming anytime soon. A sub 14 lb bike for a 100 lb rider would be very nice but I just don't see it happening.
The Isla looks like a great idea with one major flaw. Small riders with their low power to weight ratio would greatly benefit from a wider range of gearing. The Isla would be a good place to start but it would need some modifications to make it better. That would be doable but it could get costly. A mountain bike triple with 44/32/22 chainring set would be ideal but that modification would cost about half again what the bike goes for.
Still it would be a good place to start.


#63
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+1 on steel.
I love vintage steel bikes (as does my wife), but her steel bike weighs 45 lbs. There's no reason for a more petite person to carry around that much bike weight.
I don't think you need to be an absolute nut about weight (read: carbon fiber everything), but one advantage of being smaller is that you can go pretty light, probably aluminium.
On a commuter bike, the only CF part that I would like (not a requirement, but a nice-to-have) is a carbon fiber fork. It can take some of the vibration out of the bike that can resonate to one's forearms. This is not a weight issue at all.
Then again, if you fall in love with a steel bike that's less than 25 lbs, have a blast with it.
I love vintage steel bikes (as does my wife), but her steel bike weighs 45 lbs. There's no reason for a more petite person to carry around that much bike weight.
I don't think you need to be an absolute nut about weight (read: carbon fiber everything), but one advantage of being smaller is that you can go pretty light, probably aluminium.
On a commuter bike, the only CF part that I would like (not a requirement, but a nice-to-have) is a carbon fiber fork. It can take some of the vibration out of the bike that can resonate to one's forearms. This is not a weight issue at all.
Then again, if you fall in love with a steel bike that's less than 25 lbs, have a blast with it.
Last edited by tbo; 05-04-17 at 09:52 AM.
#64
Full Member
Also: thanks to everyone who's mentioned Georgena Terry. I hadn't heard of her before, and I'm finding her bikes beautiful and fascinating. I don't see me getting one right away, just due to availability (eBay would be my only option right now), but they're definitely a consideration if that changes.
This isn't it, but it looks like this:

You'd want to get new tires, and do some customizing probably but you'd have plenty of $ left in your budget to do so. Let me know if you're interested

#65
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My ex-wife (about 5'1") has one of those Terry bikes with the 24" front wheel. It's a really good bike.
I helped my daughter's girlfriend (5'0") acquire a Centurion of the same design.
I helped my daughter's girlfriend (5'0") acquire a Centurion of the same design.
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#66
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Standover - flat-footed over the frame.
A 32" inseam is exaggerating for me; closer to 31". My brother, who is 2" taller than me, has legs that are 5" longer than me, and he isn't particularly long-legged. I have a long torso and short legs. I think my Giants are 21"; anything smaller is uncomfortable. In fact, I have 120mm stems on both to extend the reach a little. I loved the reach on an old 22" Specialized I had, but standover height was an inch too high for me.
I've been riding for several years, usually over 100 miles a week and often 60+ mile rides on the weekend. While my choice of frame may not be "technically" correct, it has worked for me. (Of course, this is bikeforums and I'm sure there are plenty of posters itching to tell me how what I should be doing instead.)
A 32" inseam is exaggerating for me; closer to 31". My brother, who is 2" taller than me, has legs that are 5" longer than me, and he isn't particularly long-legged. I have a long torso and short legs. I think my Giants are 21"; anything smaller is uncomfortable. In fact, I have 120mm stems on both to extend the reach a little. I loved the reach on an old 22" Specialized I had, but standover height was an inch too high for me.
I've been riding for several years, usually over 100 miles a week and often 60+ mile rides on the weekend. While my choice of frame may not be "technically" correct, it has worked for me. (Of course, this is bikeforums and I'm sure there are plenty of posters itching to tell me how what I should be doing instead.)
In my experience, it takes a lot of effort to convince someone that a wrong sized bike is, well, the wrong size but once convinced, the person ends up happier and more comfortable. I've done it myself a couple of times.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
#67
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I think the fact that the OP is in Montreal Canada is going to make a lot of our purchase suggestions moot. BikeIsland says they'll ship to the lower 48 states. Islabikes website makes no mention of Canada, either. In either case, it might be worth a call to confirm, if the OP's interest runs high in either direction.
OP, take a look at Norco bikes. https://www.norco.com/
They have a nice range of sizes in various styles. A quick check of their website shows that some models, like https://www.norco.com/bikes/city/urba...indie-4-forma/ come in XXS sizes.
This brand might be your ticket. Whether you can find your size in stock, well, that's another question. Looks like they have a good dealer network in your city.
OP, take a look at Norco bikes. https://www.norco.com/
They have a nice range of sizes in various styles. A quick check of their website shows that some models, like https://www.norco.com/bikes/city/urba...indie-4-forma/ come in XXS sizes.
This brand might be your ticket. Whether you can find your size in stock, well, that's another question. Looks like they have a good dealer network in your city.
Last edited by Altair 4; 05-04-17 at 12:29 PM.
#68
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I would suggest looking at this bike (if they still have them).
It has absolutely no clearance for fenders.
It also has a plastic fork.
It also looks too nice, it's a magnet to thieves.

I would search for a junior bike. If you get it cheaply, you can replace the seat post and handlebar with light aluminum ones.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...roadbikes.html
#69
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I sense a slapfight coming
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Here is my argument for the fight.
I would put fenders and an IGH or a 7-8 speed cassette and modern brake shoes.
It's comfortable, relatively light, reliable, beautiful.

The original item.
It weighs 24.5lb with all steel components that can be replaced while the Terry weighs 22-25lb. I don't understand, aluminum frame and plastic fork plus modern components should weigh much less, but they don't.
I would put fenders and an IGH or a 7-8 speed cassette and modern brake shoes.
It's comfortable, relatively light, reliable, beautiful.

The original item.
It weighs 24.5lb with all steel components that can be replaced while the Terry weighs 22-25lb. I don't understand, aluminum frame and plastic fork plus modern components should weigh much less, but they don't.

Last edited by Barabaika; 05-04-17 at 01:52 PM.
#71
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More like a smack down.
I have nearly 20,000 (mostly) commuting miles on a "plastic" fork over the last decade and I weigh more than a 4'11" person of any gender weighs. I put a lot more stress on the fork than they would and I'm not worried about my old, well used "plastic" fork breaking at any time in the near or distant future.
And, while I agree that it has limited room for fenders, I personally think that the need for fenders is highly overrated. If you ride in the rain, you are going to get wet so you will likely be wearing rain protection anyway. The bike won't melt if it gets wet so it doesn't care. There are also way of fitting fenders to bikes with limited fender clearance.
However, you seem to be missing the forest for the trees. The point is not to have the "perfect" bike for commuting, especially considering the limitations that the rider has. The point it getting thetiniestbike on a bicycle that can be ridden by a person of small stature. That's far more difficult than most people realize. One shouldn't let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
Every new bike is a possible magnet for thieves. You rolls your dice and you moves your mice.
Several problems with your idea. First, the bike you've posted is 34 years old. Peugot bicycles were rare to begin with in the US and finding a used 24" wheel mixte bike is something of a fools errand. It's not like they are making them anymore. I see literally thousands of used bikes come into my local bike co-op (about 3000 bikes per year in donations and I've been working for them for 5 years). We seldom see a regular sized Peugot much less a petite one like the M46 you are suggesting.
Secondly, the claimed 24.5 lb weight of the M46 should be taken with a grain of salt equivalent to the entire annual output of fluer de sel for France. I've seen way too many bikes to believe that a mixte framed bike with extra steel tubing, steel rims, steel cranks, steel handlebars, steel seatpost and only the smallest touch of aluminum parts would weigh anywhere within a country mile of 24 lbs. What I don't believe is how someone could look at a bike with enough steel on it to make a French battleship could believe that it would weigh that little.
I could, however, believe a translation error. I would suspect that the bike weighs closer to 24.5 kilograms than pounds, although that's a bit too high but still more believable than 24 lbs.
There is the issue of size. Look closely at the brochure page you posted. The "size" is listed as an 18". Yes, it has small wheels but that seatpost is way up in the air and I'm not sure that it could be pushed down far enough for a small person to ride.
And, while I agree that it has limited room for fenders, I personally think that the need for fenders is highly overrated. If you ride in the rain, you are going to get wet so you will likely be wearing rain protection anyway. The bike won't melt if it gets wet so it doesn't care. There are also way of fitting fenders to bikes with limited fender clearance.
However, you seem to be missing the forest for the trees. The point is not to have the "perfect" bike for commuting, especially considering the limitations that the rider has. The point it getting thetiniestbike on a bicycle that can be ridden by a person of small stature. That's far more difficult than most people realize. One shouldn't let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
Every new bike is a possible magnet for thieves. You rolls your dice and you moves your mice.
Here is my argument for the fight.
I would put fenders and an IGH or a 7-8 speed cassette and modern brake shoes.
It's comfortable, relatively light, reliable, beautiful.
The original item.
It weighs 24.5lb with all steel components that can be replaced while the Terry weighs 22-25lb. I don't understand, aluminum frame and plastic fork plus modern components should weigh much less, but they don't.
I would put fenders and an IGH or a 7-8 speed cassette and modern brake shoes.
It's comfortable, relatively light, reliable, beautiful.
The original item.
It weighs 24.5lb with all steel components that can be replaced while the Terry weighs 22-25lb. I don't understand, aluminum frame and plastic fork plus modern components should weigh much less, but they don't.
Secondly, the claimed 24.5 lb weight of the M46 should be taken with a grain of salt equivalent to the entire annual output of fluer de sel for France. I've seen way too many bikes to believe that a mixte framed bike with extra steel tubing, steel rims, steel cranks, steel handlebars, steel seatpost and only the smallest touch of aluminum parts would weigh anywhere within a country mile of 24 lbs. What I don't believe is how someone could look at a bike with enough steel on it to make a French battleship could believe that it would weigh that little.
I could, however, believe a translation error. I would suspect that the bike weighs closer to 24.5 kilograms than pounds, although that's a bit too high but still more believable than 24 lbs.
There is the issue of size. Look closely at the brochure page you posted. The "size" is listed as an 18". Yes, it has small wheels but that seatpost is way up in the air and I'm not sure that it could be pushed down far enough for a small person to ride.
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Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
#72
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Several problems with your idea. First, the bike you've posted is 34 years old. Peugot bicycles were rare to begin with in the US and finding a used 24" wheel mixte bike is something of a fools errand. It's not like they are making them anymore. I see literally thousands of used bikes come into my local bike co-op (about 3000 bikes per year in donations and I've been working for them for 5 years). We seldom see a regular sized Peugot much less a petite one like the M46 you are suggesting.
Secondly, the claimed 24.5 lb weight of the M46 should be taken with a grain of salt equivalent to the entire annual output of fluer de sel for France. I've seen way too many bikes to believe that a mixte framed bike with extra steel tubing, steel rims, steel cranks, steel handlebars, steel seatpost and only the smallest touch of aluminum parts would weigh anywhere within a country mile of 24 lbs. What I don't believe is how someone could look at a bike with enough steel on it to make a French battleship could believe that it would weigh that little.
I could, however, believe a translation error. I would suspect that the bike weighs closer to 24.5 kilograms than pounds, although that's a bit too high but still more believable than 24 lbs.
There is the issue of size. Look closely at the brochure page you posted. The "size" is listed as an 18". Yes, it has small wheels but that seatpost is way up in the air and I'm not sure that it could be pushed down far enough for a small person to ride.
I'm 5'4" and I ride the bike in the back of the picture, which is all aluminum and weighs considerably more than this Peugeot.
#73
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See Post #31
I'm 5'4" and I ride the bike in the back of the picture, which is all aluminum and weighs considerably more than this Peugeot.
I'm 5'4" and I ride the bike in the back of the picture, which is all aluminum and weighs considerably more than this Peugeot.
It's actually newer than the M46 - 1989.
If you change the steel handlebar and the steel seat post, you can save 2lb more.
You can invest $300 in new parts like a new swept-back handlebar, a Brooks saddle, fenders, racks, panniers... for the price of the BikesDirect Terry https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...road-bikes.htm.

Last edited by Barabaika; 05-05-17 at 10:44 AM.
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I accept that it's difficult to find such bikes, but it's also difficult to get rid of them. They were bought for juniors, who are 34 years older now. So, the bikes are mostly unused.
You may have to travel a long distance to get one.
See, College3.0 offered the thread author her junior bicycle with 0 miles. I don't expect any problems with it. I accept that the components are outdated. But this fact detracts thieves. Also, thieves don't like mixtes. It's also 16".
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...lee-mixte.html
I accept that you need mechanical skills to update an old bicycle instead of getting a new shiny one every 3 years.
Last edited by Barabaika; 05-05-17 at 10:59 AM.
#75
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As interesting as this discussion is, it's a couple weeks since @thetiniestbike posted; not sure s/he has stuck around to absorb our collective wisdom. Whatever; I hope it helped!
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