Strip paint/ raw steel?
#1
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Strip paint/ raw steel?
I plan to strip the cheap paint from my Retrospec frame, and keep it unpainted. I've taken off each part of my bike, except the bottom bracket.
1. I'm not completely sure what my frame material is. It's a type of steel. Is that significant for this project?
2. I've bought Rustoleum Rust Inhibitor clearcoat. Will it stick to the frame? Will it discolour?
3. Should I even use the clearcoat? I originally wanted to apply it because after I accumulate enough stickers, i'd apply the stickers and clearcoat to protect them from the sun/daily wear.
Basically, I would like a protected raw frame with decals/stickers. I would appreciate the feedback. Thanks!
1. I'm not completely sure what my frame material is. It's a type of steel. Is that significant for this project?
2. I've bought Rustoleum Rust Inhibitor clearcoat. Will it stick to the frame? Will it discolour?
3. Should I even use the clearcoat? I originally wanted to apply it because after I accumulate enough stickers, i'd apply the stickers and clearcoat to protect them from the sun/daily wear.
Basically, I would like a protected raw frame with decals/stickers. I would appreciate the feedback. Thanks!
Last edited by JDMKidBill; 02-21-12 at 01:06 PM.
#2
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If its any kind of steel (excluding stainless) you'll want to at very least clear coat it or you'll have a nice brown very quickly. The clear should stick ok to the metal as long as you don't polish it smooth. And make sure you coat it very thoroughly as not to miss any spots (at least two coats) then let it cure completely. Then if you are planning on putting stickers on is lightly sand the clear with very fine sandpaper (is wetsand 1000 grit) then get it good and clean and let it dry. Then apply the stickers and give it another two good coats of clear. And make sure to use plenty on the chain stay and or a chain stay protector. And don't be in too big of rush as it will take time for the clear to cure and not be soft. Do not re assemble the bike until its fully cured or all the work you do will have been for nothing. I suggest letting it cure for a good 3 weeks minimum to be safe.
Hope this helps. But to be honest I'd check to see what a local body shop would charge you to spray it with car clear coat because it will be much more durable and cure a lot faster.
Good luck.
Hope this helps. But to be honest I'd check to see what a local body shop would charge you to spray it with car clear coat because it will be much more durable and cure a lot faster.
Good luck.
#3
Your cog is slipping.
Wait...you're going to remove the finish from your bike because you want to cover the entire thing with stickers? Why not just cover it with stickers now?
Just so you know - a lot of spray paint/clear coat melts vinyl stickers, causing the edges to curl up. You could end up with a big mess on your hands.
Just so you know - a lot of spray paint/clear coat melts vinyl stickers, causing the edges to curl up. You could end up with a big mess on your hands.
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I was hoping to ride around in the raw until I get some more stickers. It would be like a two step project?
#6
Your cog is slipping.
This. Spray bomb clear coats tend to suck. Even if you do find one that seems to work, it will begin to flake off over time because there is no primer/sealer for the clearcoat to stick to.
I would hit up a local place that deals with custom motorcycles and see what advice they give when it comes to treating raw steel.
I would hit up a local place that deals with custom motorcycles and see what advice they give when it comes to treating raw steel.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 02-21-12 at 08:54 AM.
#7
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There are a few companies that make clear coat paints designed to adhere to raw steel, but you'll probably have to go to an auto body shop or motorcycle place as Scrod suggested for that. If you just want a raw steel bike, get a powdercoat.
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having painted motorcycles, there is a trick to clear coating raw steel, you have to remove all the moistures, moisture invisible to the naked eye. if you spray bomb clear coat it will rust underneath. look into a clear powder coating, cheap and tough, scrod speaks the simple truth auto body shop
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IMO powdercoat is the only real way to go.
#10
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Would you just look at it
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I love the raw look of my bike. Even with a clear coat, I am starting to notice discoloration on the seat tube, which I'm guessing is minor rust. It looks so awesome.
I say, if you have to ask about the project on such a basic level, you probably shouldn't be DIY. If you do end up trying, good luck
I say, if you have to ask about the project on such a basic level, you probably shouldn't be DIY. If you do end up trying, good luck
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Will one/some of your many stickers in "step 2" involve some "illest" ones? cc700 will like that.
#14
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undoubtedly. wide tire fitment people all ALL this young, ignorant, or stupid. sometimes all three.
though i'm sure this person is just innocently ignorant and perhaps young. paint is a very very technical, scientific, magical, and mystical mystery. like magnets. or horses.
though i'm sure this person is just innocently ignorant and perhaps young. paint is a very very technical, scientific, magical, and mystical mystery. like magnets. or horses.
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And yes, although young, i'd like to do more DIY things. I'm aware of some "scientific" parts to the project... I've just wanted input from people who've done something similar.
From reading some replies and other forum posts, it sounds like if I want to strip and maintain the steel, i'd have to powdercoat it. Considering I don't have the ability to self powder coat, are there any further alternatives?
#17
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the only stuff that will treat the metal and prevent corrosion adequately is all extremely chemically reactive(requires industrial handling) or expensive (laquer paint, powdercoat).
you could do an industrial metal finish in an acid bath or plating process, but that's going to be on par with powdercoat pricing. your only cheaper alternative is an enamel spray paint but you're going to be at at least half the cost of a powdercoat to do that right and the finish isn't going to last as long, be as good looking, or have the variety in color choices.
if you want a raw metal frame, take it to a metal finishing place and ask them if they can strip it, acid bathe it, and clear coat it. if they can't do that for less than you are willing to spend, sell the frame and buy a raw kilo.
in fact, your frame sucks so much it's not worth doing anything to; just sell it and buy a better frame.
you could do an industrial metal finish in an acid bath or plating process, but that's going to be on par with powdercoat pricing. your only cheaper alternative is an enamel spray paint but you're going to be at at least half the cost of a powdercoat to do that right and the finish isn't going to last as long, be as good looking, or have the variety in color choices.
if you want a raw metal frame, take it to a metal finishing place and ask them if they can strip it, acid bathe it, and clear coat it. if they can't do that for less than you are willing to spend, sell the frame and buy a raw kilo.
in fact, your frame sucks so much it's not worth doing anything to; just sell it and buy a better frame.
#18
Your cog is slipping.
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LOL. Might as well buy a new bike!
Guess I won't be stripping the paint. I'll be lucky if I can even get 10 dollars out of the frame. You live and you learn, I guess...
Guess I won't be stripping the paint. I'll be lucky if I can even get 10 dollars out of the frame. You live and you learn, I guess...
#21
Would you just look at it
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If you think you're only getting $10, might as well keep it and build it up to be a beater. Then build/buy another bike.
n+1
n+1
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I took a beater bike down to raw steel very recently. When I posted a thread about it, everyone wanted to talk about clear coats. I have decided to leave the bike "raw" because the inevitable corrosion has not developed. My advise to you is not to worry about the clear coat until you have finished stripping the frame. After doing this twice on two different bikes, I would suggest that you get some sort of shop stand, lots of sandpaper and a GOOD variety of wire brushes. The paint removal process is more daunting than you think. Patience is key.
You also will probably want a garage/dirty work area where you can leave the bike after you get so frustrated removing paint that you need to come back to it tomorrow. Oh, go ahead and pull the bottom bracket. That's the hardest part to sand around with parts installed. I have never posted my single speed on this forum due to beating it would probably receive. But just to give you some inspiration......(keep in mind, this bike was built from spare parts I had laying around. It is in a constant state of flux)
You also will probably want a garage/dirty work area where you can leave the bike after you get so frustrated removing paint that you need to come back to it tomorrow. Oh, go ahead and pull the bottom bracket. That's the hardest part to sand around with parts installed. I have never posted my single speed on this forum due to beating it would probably receive. But just to give you some inspiration......(keep in mind, this bike was built from spare parts I had laying around. It is in a constant state of flux)
Last edited by supafast213; 02-21-12 at 05:13 PM.