1st bike in 15+ years, 1st road bike ever, wish me luck
#1
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1st bike in 15+ years, 1st road bike ever, wish me luck
Hello everyone, started a thread in general intro to say hello, but didnt want to post all the info on new bike that I got, as it may not be proper place for discussing it.
After not owning a bike for 15+ years, and last one I did was cheap B&M shop kind, I picked up my very 1st road bike yesterday (used)
It is Cannondale R600-Sport. Bike looks to be in like new condition. Previous owner, used it for maybe 200km he said, as he has other bikes. It was supposed to be for his wife, but it was too tall for her and then she had knee issues, so she hasnt used it once for actual ride.
Some info about me::
Male, 40 years old, 5'10", 160 lbs, 33" inseam to the floor
Bike as mentioned is Cannondale R600-Sport, size 21" (53-54)
Looks to be from 2001, going by the serial on the bottom of the frame, "handmade in USA"
Interesting thing is that even when looking at 2001 catalog, I didnt find mention of R600-Sport. Only R600. Also, still cant find another pic of frame like this one, where it says "CAAD Technology" on the seat tube. They all have either Cannondale or CAAD#
Groupset is a mixture of different parts and manufacturers it seems (have I mentioned I am brand new at this haha)
Fork I am guessing is carbon, going strictly by the carbon pattern on it. Could be completely wrong.
Chain is tight, can move it from outside chain ring few mm, lubed up and mostly clean. Chain ring teeth (I was calling them sprockets, as that is what they are on motorcycle) look good as well, none are warped or filed down and pointy.
Taking it to LBS to get it completely inspected and serviced, and then get it properly adjusted for me on Wednesday. I did some basic adjustments, and bike feels good. Seating position feels comfy, not much different than when on a motorcycle, so thats good.
Here are bunch of pictures, so hopefully folks that have much better knowledge of parts than me can figure out what is what.
I have no idea what this thing is, it can be in one of 2 positions. This one and the one shown in picture below.
After not owning a bike for 15+ years, and last one I did was cheap B&M shop kind, I picked up my very 1st road bike yesterday (used)
It is Cannondale R600-Sport. Bike looks to be in like new condition. Previous owner, used it for maybe 200km he said, as he has other bikes. It was supposed to be for his wife, but it was too tall for her and then she had knee issues, so she hasnt used it once for actual ride.
Some info about me::
Male, 40 years old, 5'10", 160 lbs, 33" inseam to the floor
Bike as mentioned is Cannondale R600-Sport, size 21" (53-54)
Looks to be from 2001, going by the serial on the bottom of the frame, "handmade in USA"
Interesting thing is that even when looking at 2001 catalog, I didnt find mention of R600-Sport. Only R600. Also, still cant find another pic of frame like this one, where it says "CAAD Technology" on the seat tube. They all have either Cannondale or CAAD#
Groupset is a mixture of different parts and manufacturers it seems (have I mentioned I am brand new at this haha)
Fork I am guessing is carbon, going strictly by the carbon pattern on it. Could be completely wrong.
Chain is tight, can move it from outside chain ring few mm, lubed up and mostly clean. Chain ring teeth (I was calling them sprockets, as that is what they are on motorcycle) look good as well, none are warped or filed down and pointy.
Taking it to LBS to get it completely inspected and serviced, and then get it properly adjusted for me on Wednesday. I did some basic adjustments, and bike feels good. Seating position feels comfy, not much different than when on a motorcycle, so thats good.
Here are bunch of pictures, so hopefully folks that have much better knowledge of parts than me can figure out what is what.
I have no idea what this thing is, it can be in one of 2 positions. This one and the one shown in picture below.
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Ride it like you stole it!
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"This 7:48 cycling session burned 5933 calories. Speed up recovery by replacing them with a healthy snack." - Whoop
"This 7:48 cycling session burned 5933 calories. Speed up recovery by replacing them with a healthy snack." - Whoop
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Cool bike! That appears to be a Cannondale Head Shok https://vintagecannondale.com/info/headshok/ Unusual on a road bike but should provide some comfort.
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Hello everyone, started a thread in general intro to say hello, but didnt want to post all the info on new bike that I got, as it may not be proper place for discussing it.
After not owning a bike for 15+ years, and last one I did was cheap B&M shop kind, I picked up my very 1st road bike yesterday (used)
It is Cannondale R600-Sport. Bike looks to be in like new condition. Previous owner, used it for maybe 200km he said, as he has other bikes. It was supposed to be for his wife, but it was too tall for her and then she had knee issues, so she hasnt used it once for actual ride.
Some info about me::
Male, 40 years old, 5'10", 160 lbs, 33" inseam to the floor
Bike as mentioned is Cannondale R600-Sport, size 21" (53-54)
Looks to be from 2001, going by the serial on the bottom of the frame, "handmade in USA"
Interesting thing is that even when looking at 2001 catalog, I didnt find mention of R600-Sport. Only R600. Also, still cant find another pic of frame like this one, where it says "CAAD Technology" on the seat tube. They all have either Cannondale or CAAD#
Groupset is a mixture of different parts and manufacturers it seems (have I mentioned I am brand new at this haha)
Fork I am guessing is carbon, going strictly by the carbon pattern on it. Could be completely wrong.
Chain is tight, can move it from outside chain ring few mm, lubed up and mostly clean. Chain ring teeth (I was calling them sprockets, as that is what they are on motorcycle) look good as well, none are warped or filed down and pointy.
Taking it to LBS to get it completely inspected and serviced, and then get it properly adjusted for me on Wednesday. I did some basic adjustments, and bike feels good. Seating position feels comfy, not much different than when on a motorcycle, so thats good.
Here are bunch of pictures, so hopefully folks that have much better knowledge of parts than me can figure out what is what.
After not owning a bike for 15+ years, and last one I did was cheap B&M shop kind, I picked up my very 1st road bike yesterday (used)
It is Cannondale R600-Sport. Bike looks to be in like new condition. Previous owner, used it for maybe 200km he said, as he has other bikes. It was supposed to be for his wife, but it was too tall for her and then she had knee issues, so she hasnt used it once for actual ride.
Some info about me::
Male, 40 years old, 5'10", 160 lbs, 33" inseam to the floor
Bike as mentioned is Cannondale R600-Sport, size 21" (53-54)
Looks to be from 2001, going by the serial on the bottom of the frame, "handmade in USA"
Interesting thing is that even when looking at 2001 catalog, I didnt find mention of R600-Sport. Only R600. Also, still cant find another pic of frame like this one, where it says "CAAD Technology" on the seat tube. They all have either Cannondale or CAAD#
Groupset is a mixture of different parts and manufacturers it seems (have I mentioned I am brand new at this haha)
Fork I am guessing is carbon, going strictly by the carbon pattern on it. Could be completely wrong.
Chain is tight, can move it from outside chain ring few mm, lubed up and mostly clean. Chain ring teeth (I was calling them sprockets, as that is what they are on motorcycle) look good as well, none are warped or filed down and pointy.
Taking it to LBS to get it completely inspected and serviced, and then get it properly adjusted for me on Wednesday. I did some basic adjustments, and bike feels good. Seating position feels comfy, not much different than when on a motorcycle, so thats good.
Here are bunch of pictures, so hopefully folks that have much better knowledge of parts than me can figure out what is what.
Quick suggestion is to spring for a couple newer tires and replace those old gatorskins. Might be able to fit a bit wider tire as well.
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#7
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Hello everyone, started a thread in general intro to say hello, but didnt want to post all the info on new bike that I got, as it may not be proper place for discussing it.
After not owning a bike for 15+ years, and last one I did was cheap B&M shop kind, I picked up my very 1st road bike yesterday (used)
It is Cannondale R600-Sport. Bike looks to be in like new condition. Previous owner, used it for maybe 200km he said, as he has other bikes. It was supposed to be for his wife, but it was too tall for her and then she had knee issues, so she hasnt used it once for actual ride.
Some info about me::
Male, 40 years old, 5'10", 160 lbs, 33" inseam to the floor
Bike as mentioned is Cannondale R600-Sport, size 21" (53-54)
After not owning a bike for 15+ years, and last one I did was cheap B&M shop kind, I picked up my very 1st road bike yesterday (used)
It is Cannondale R600-Sport. Bike looks to be in like new condition. Previous owner, used it for maybe 200km he said, as he has other bikes. It was supposed to be for his wife, but it was too tall for her and then she had knee issues, so she hasnt used it once for actual ride.
Some info about me::
Male, 40 years old, 5'10", 160 lbs, 33" inseam to the floor
Bike as mentioned is Cannondale R600-Sport, size 21" (53-54)
Great find... now log off of BF and get some miles in!
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You won't need luck if you are well informed & prepared
Make sure it is fitted properly, don't push yourself too much for the first few rides & enjoy.
Oh and, your drivetrain needs TLC. Clean that thing thoroughly, you might see it changing color!
Make sure it is fitted properly, don't push yourself too much for the first few rides & enjoy.
Oh and, your drivetrain needs TLC. Clean that thing thoroughly, you might see it changing color!
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indeed, but it looks like that headtube shock thing at least adds some stack. May need to eventually look at a setback seatpost and/or slightly longer stem.
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#10
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Thanks, I actually took front wheel off yesterday, as I wanted to see how complicated it was. QR lever is now fully closed due to this as well. And yes, I was going to ask about tires. I know for motorcycles, 5 years old tires are no bueno, so I am guessing it is same thing for bicycles as well. Any recommendations I should be looking at?
Last edited by cvrle1; 07-19-20 at 10:18 AM.
#11
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Thread Starter
Thanks. For cleaning drivetrain, can i use kerosine to clean all the gunk and dirt, and then lube? This is common practice for motorcycles, and everything looks brand new. Not sure if there is a better way, or better cleaner I should use.
#12
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Thread Starter
Thanks, will be taking bike in on Wednesday to get looked over, and to see what service may need to be done. Will get it fitted then as well, as I dont have too much knowledge on how to do it (other than yt videos) and I doubt I can fit it myself properly.
#13
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Thread Starter
Thanks. What I paid for it, I do feel like I stole it hahah. And running for the border will be a really short ride, as I live 5 miles from Canada/US border on Canada side (which is closed, and will continue to be for a while unfortunately). Unless I run for the Alaska border, then thats a whole different story.
Last edited by cvrle1; 07-19-20 at 11:14 AM.
#14
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Thread Starter
Cool bike! That appears to be a Cannondale Head Shok https://vintagecannondale.com/info/headshok/ Unusual on a road bike but should provide some comfort.
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https://cyclingtips.com/2018/12/the-...-for-bicycles/
I personally like the Pedro's Pig Juice, combined with their Chain Pig, but Park Tool and others offer very similar products.
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Simple Green and the generic orange stuff one can find at any hardware store are great degreasers suitable for drivetrain cleaning.
The movable thing on top of the stem probably (un)locks the headshock mechanism.
I like Schwalbe One tires. Plenty of options, some of which are geared toward speed/racing, others (like those gatorskins) are geared toward flat protection. Be sure you get the right size. You can probably fit 25mm tires, but check between the chainstays to see just how much space you have between the current tires' rubber and the bike frame (try to fit a 4mm allen wrench between the rubber and frame on both sides.) You might be limited to 23s due to wheel flex too. Rub is not good.
Bike cogs/sprockets don't really get visibly work before you should replace them.. It's more of a feel thing. The chain is probably going to need replacing before the other parts -- and you can measure pin-to-pin to see if it's stretched. You can get a specialty tools for doing so, but, really, your shifting performance will be poor and the chain chattery before you ever think to measure it...
You might consider replacing the brake pads as well since they tend to harden up and become relatively useless when they sit for years like that. Koolstop make some nice salmon colored ones but you'll need to also get some holders as the pads on there are all one piece. Some of these, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic.../dp/B0014BRW6E
Next up would be cables and maybe cable housings...
In the mean time, that's a great find and looks like it was preserved for the last 20 years... Great entry into road cycling!
The movable thing on top of the stem probably (un)locks the headshock mechanism.
I like Schwalbe One tires. Plenty of options, some of which are geared toward speed/racing, others (like those gatorskins) are geared toward flat protection. Be sure you get the right size. You can probably fit 25mm tires, but check between the chainstays to see just how much space you have between the current tires' rubber and the bike frame (try to fit a 4mm allen wrench between the rubber and frame on both sides.) You might be limited to 23s due to wheel flex too. Rub is not good.
Bike cogs/sprockets don't really get visibly work before you should replace them.. It's more of a feel thing. The chain is probably going to need replacing before the other parts -- and you can measure pin-to-pin to see if it's stretched. You can get a specialty tools for doing so, but, really, your shifting performance will be poor and the chain chattery before you ever think to measure it...
You might consider replacing the brake pads as well since they tend to harden up and become relatively useless when they sit for years like that. Koolstop make some nice salmon colored ones but you'll need to also get some holders as the pads on there are all one piece. Some of these, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic.../dp/B0014BRW6E
Next up would be cables and maybe cable housings...
In the mean time, that's a great find and looks like it was preserved for the last 20 years... Great entry into road cycling!
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#17
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Thread Starter
There are a few degreasers specific to bike drivetrains that might work better than kerosene (and would certainly be better for the environment).
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/12/the-...-for-bicycles/
I personally like the Pedro's Pig Juice, combined with their Chain Pig, but Park Tool and others offer very similar products.
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/12/the-...-for-bicycles/
I personally like the Pedro's Pig Juice, combined with their Chain Pig, but Park Tool and others offer very similar products.
Simple Green and the generic orange stuff one can find at any hardware store are great degreasers suitable for drivetrain cleaning.
The movable thing on top of the stem probably (un)locks the headshock mechanism.
I like Schwalbe One tires. Plenty of options, some of which are geared toward speed/racing, others (like those gatorskins) are geared toward flat protection. Be sure you get the right size. You can probably fit 25mm tires, but check between the chainstays to see just how much space you have between the current tires' rubber and the bike frame (try to fit a 4mm allen wrench between the rubber and frame on both sides.) You might be limited to 23s due to wheel flex too. Rub is not good.
Bike cogs/sprockets don't really get visibly work before you should replace them.. It's more of a feel thing. The chain is probably going to need replacing before the other parts -- and you can measure pin-to-pin to see if it's stretched. You can get a specialty tools for doing so, but, really, your shifting performance will be poor and the chain chattery before you ever think to measure it...
You might consider replacing the brake pads as well since they tend to harden up and become relatively useless when they sit for years like that. Koolstop make some nice salmon colored ones but you'll need to also get some holders as the pads on there are all one piece. Some of these, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic.../dp/B0014BRW6E
Next up would be cables and maybe cable housings...
In the mean time, that's a great find and looks like it was preserved for the last 20 years... Great entry into road cycling!
The movable thing on top of the stem probably (un)locks the headshock mechanism.
I like Schwalbe One tires. Plenty of options, some of which are geared toward speed/racing, others (like those gatorskins) are geared toward flat protection. Be sure you get the right size. You can probably fit 25mm tires, but check between the chainstays to see just how much space you have between the current tires' rubber and the bike frame (try to fit a 4mm allen wrench between the rubber and frame on both sides.) You might be limited to 23s due to wheel flex too. Rub is not good.
Bike cogs/sprockets don't really get visibly work before you should replace them.. It's more of a feel thing. The chain is probably going to need replacing before the other parts -- and you can measure pin-to-pin to see if it's stretched. You can get a specialty tools for doing so, but, really, your shifting performance will be poor and the chain chattery before you ever think to measure it...
You might consider replacing the brake pads as well since they tend to harden up and become relatively useless when they sit for years like that. Koolstop make some nice salmon colored ones but you'll need to also get some holders as the pads on there are all one piece. Some of these, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic.../dp/B0014BRW6E
Next up would be cables and maybe cable housings...
In the mean time, that's a great find and looks like it was preserved for the last 20 years... Great entry into road cycling!
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
...
I like Schwalbe One tires. Plenty of options, some of which are geared toward speed/racing, others (like those gatorskins) are geared toward flat protection. Be sure you get the right size. You can probably fit 25mm tires, but check between the chainstays to see just how much space you have between the current tires' rubber and the bike frame (try to fit a 4mm allen wrench between the rubber and frame on both sides.) You might be limited to 23s due to wheel flex too. Rub is not good.
...
I like Schwalbe One tires. Plenty of options, some of which are geared toward speed/racing, others (like those gatorskins) are geared toward flat protection. Be sure you get the right size. You can probably fit 25mm tires, but check between the chainstays to see just how much space you have between the current tires' rubber and the bike frame (try to fit a 4mm allen wrench between the rubber and frame on both sides.) You might be limited to 23s due to wheel flex too. Rub is not good.
...
They have following: 25-622 and 700X25C
Are these 25mm tires, or am I wrong in my understanding of these numbers? Thanks
#19
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You are correct. Nominally 25mm, though actual width has been known to vary in either direction.
#20
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Why not? I clean my cassette once in a while with a small amount of WD-40 & a brush and soak my chain in fuel and/or in WD-40 to remove gunk, dirt, metal shavings, etc. every 1000kms or so. Screw those chain cleaning tools you snap directly on the chain that are supposedly cleaning it...it needs to be removed and soaked in a chemical .
Last edited by eduskator; 07-23-20 at 09:59 AM.
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#21
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Nice looking Cannondale. The April 2001 manufacture date suggests this could be a 2002 model, and the Headshok might put it in some sort of comfort or cross category - might be worth looking in that section.
In addition to new tires, your shop may also suggest getting new cables and housing. Any lubricant in the housings would long have since dried up, leaving a gunky sticky mess that will make braking and maybe shifting feel very poor. But may also be worth going on a few rides before making that decision - having a shop install a full set of cables and re-wrap the bar tape isn’t cheap.
As for tires, most models from most brands will be fine. Vittoria Rubinos, Continental UltraSports and GranPrixes, Schwalbe Ones - can’t really go wrong. If you’re having your shop do the work, just pick what they have in stock. I would recommend sticking with Kevlar/folding bead rather than saving the money and going for wire bead, though, as you can save up to 1lbs by going with folding.
For the record, I’m 5’10” with a 33 true inseam (wear 30” pants), and my bikes are 55cm and ML (medium long). Your bike might be a tad short, but probably not enough of a difference to be worth immediately changing, especially as a new rider - the shorter fit would just be less aggressive. As you get used to things you many want to go longer and lower, but 10-20mm shorter front to back probably won’t make a big difference to start, at least on shorter rides. And as another poster mentioned, the headshok likely already makes the front end a little taller than typical.
Enjoy!
In addition to new tires, your shop may also suggest getting new cables and housing. Any lubricant in the housings would long have since dried up, leaving a gunky sticky mess that will make braking and maybe shifting feel very poor. But may also be worth going on a few rides before making that decision - having a shop install a full set of cables and re-wrap the bar tape isn’t cheap.
As for tires, most models from most brands will be fine. Vittoria Rubinos, Continental UltraSports and GranPrixes, Schwalbe Ones - can’t really go wrong. If you’re having your shop do the work, just pick what they have in stock. I would recommend sticking with Kevlar/folding bead rather than saving the money and going for wire bead, though, as you can save up to 1lbs by going with folding.
For the record, I’m 5’10” with a 33 true inseam (wear 30” pants), and my bikes are 55cm and ML (medium long). Your bike might be a tad short, but probably not enough of a difference to be worth immediately changing, especially as a new rider - the shorter fit would just be less aggressive. As you get used to things you many want to go longer and lower, but 10-20mm shorter front to back probably won’t make a big difference to start, at least on shorter rides. And as another poster mentioned, the headshok likely already makes the front end a little taller than typical.
Enjoy!
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#22
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Thread Starter
Nice looking Cannondale. The April 2001 manufacture date suggests this could be a 2002 model, and the Headshok might put it in some sort of comfort or cross category - might be worth looking in that section.
In addition to new tires, your shop may also suggest getting new cables and housing. Any lubricant in the housings would long have since dried up, leaving a gunky sticky mess that will make braking and maybe shifting feel very poor. But may also be worth going on a few rides before making that decision - having a shop install a full set of cables and re-wrap the bar tape isn’t cheap.
As for tires, most models from most brands will be fine. Vittoria Rubinos, Continental UltraSports and GranPrixes, Schwalbe Ones - can’t really go wrong. If you’re having your shop do the work, just pick what they have in stock. I would recommend sticking with Kevlar/folding bead rather than saving the money and going for wire bead, though, as you can save up to 1lbs by going with folding.
For the record, I’m 5’10” with a 33 true inseam (wear 30” pants), and my bikes are 55cm and ML (medium long). Your bike might be a tad short, but probably not enough of a difference to be worth immediately changing, especially as a new rider - the shorter fit would just be less aggressive. As you get used to things you many want to go longer and lower, but 10-20mm shorter front to back probably won’t make a big difference to start, at least on shorter rides. And as another poster mentioned, the headshok likely already makes the front end a little taller than typical.
Enjoy!
In addition to new tires, your shop may also suggest getting new cables and housing. Any lubricant in the housings would long have since dried up, leaving a gunky sticky mess that will make braking and maybe shifting feel very poor. But may also be worth going on a few rides before making that decision - having a shop install a full set of cables and re-wrap the bar tape isn’t cheap.
As for tires, most models from most brands will be fine. Vittoria Rubinos, Continental UltraSports and GranPrixes, Schwalbe Ones - can’t really go wrong. If you’re having your shop do the work, just pick what they have in stock. I would recommend sticking with Kevlar/folding bead rather than saving the money and going for wire bead, though, as you can save up to 1lbs by going with folding.
For the record, I’m 5’10” with a 33 true inseam (wear 30” pants), and my bikes are 55cm and ML (medium long). Your bike might be a tad short, but probably not enough of a difference to be worth immediately changing, especially as a new rider - the shorter fit would just be less aggressive. As you get used to things you many want to go longer and lower, but 10-20mm shorter front to back probably won’t make a big difference to start, at least on shorter rides. And as another poster mentioned, the headshok likely already makes the front end a little taller than typical.
Enjoy!
#23
Senior Member
Thanks for the info. I took the bike to local bike mechanic to give it a proper look over. It needed proper tune up, (everything torqued to proper specs, brake cables tightened and few other regular maintenance items). After looking over it he said wheels are new, chain is new (no stretch, chain checker showed reading of 0.25) cassette looks new. When I told him that seller said it was barely used and maybe put 250km on it, he said he would tend to agree that it is barely used bike. He provided me with weight of the bike as well, which was cool to know. 10.63 Kg. I havent ridden it in a bit as I am waiting for bin shorts to come in. Few rides I did do with regular shorts werent that comfy haha. Once that is here I am thiunking about getting it fitted properly. I can even use extended medical from work to get this done for free, so no reason not to do it really. It cant hurt for sure.
As for the cables, if the bike shifts and brakes well, then no issues.
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