Old Track Bike - use it as Fixie?
#27
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Sorry I don't know the correct word for that...in czech it is "Galusky" and I glue them to the rim. Of course I know all "problems" associated with skidding. I just care about the ring durability and resistance. I think that the lock ring is enough for skid (at least I thought so).
Maybe I've taken a lot of risks in the last few years with ring only but my friends and many fixie riders use just lock rings. What other safety option is there when you want to ride pure fixie brakeless bike?
Maybe I've taken a lot of risks in the last few years with ring only but my friends and many fixie riders use just lock rings. What other safety option is there when you want to ride pure fixie brakeless bike?
Then it will never come off.
#29
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There was a time, here in Belgium, when lock rings were prohibited on track.
I don't know if it's still the case and anyway I was thinking that fixie were nowhopefully has been with many of the guys having problems with their knees.
No track nearby?
I don't know if it's still the case and anyway I was thinking that fixie were nowhopefully has been with many of the guys having problems with their knees.
No track nearby?
#30
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Sorry I don't know the correct word for that...in czech it is "Galusky" and I glue them to the rim. Of course I know all "problems" associated with skidding. I just care about the ring durability and resistance. I think that the lock ring is enough for skid (at least I thought so).
Maybe I've taken a lot of risks in the last few years with ring only but my friends and many fixie riders use just lock rings. What other safety option is there when you want to ride pure fixie brakeless bike?
Maybe I've taken a lot of risks in the last few years with ring only but my friends and many fixie riders use just lock rings. What other safety option is there when you want to ride pure fixie brakeless bike?
https://www.amazon.com/Fixed-Bicycle.../dp/B074QMNYDG
-Kurt
#31
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Having a plan B to slow your bike down is never uncool.
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#32
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Maybe, if you must go down this road, get a bullitproof wheel built by the guru's and save the very cool one that is on there before it is permanently damaged and screws up that beautiful frame.
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#33
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Yes! It is my imagination of how the bike could look like. I would like the rear hub a little bit smaller and completely chrome and keep the front wheel. So I need to find some tubeless vintage rim and compatible coaster hub. I am not sure about the width of the hub - so I can mount it with the frame?
#34
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Keeping that in mind I still want to ride this bike just because I like it and I am not track enthusiast at all So I need to adjust (without any destructive changes) it somehow or sell it.
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Of course I don't want to ruin that bike in any way. If I would go with new rear hub, I would buy new rim. Dont want to damage this beautiful wheels with nice string joins.
Keeping that in mind I still want to ride this bike just because I like it and I am not track enthusiast at all So I need to adjust (without any destructive changes) it somehow or sell it.
Keeping that in mind I still want to ride this bike just because I like it and I am not track enthusiast at all So I need to adjust (without any destructive changes) it somehow or sell it.
Or just box it up and send it to me, I have a couple of fixies just sitting here I would be happy to trade.
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Shimano CB-E110 is a nice coaster brake hub. I think they may be wider than 120, though. Worth looking into.
Where are you located, @wiston? Fichtel & Sachs made some nice rear hubs if you want to search for something vintage. I have a Duomatic that is a coaster brake and two speed kickback. It is fantastic. They came in 28 hole and 36 hole variations. The 36, which is what I have, can be hard to find - at least in the US.
Where are you located, @wiston? Fichtel & Sachs made some nice rear hubs if you want to search for something vintage. I have a Duomatic that is a coaster brake and two speed kickback. It is fantastic. They came in 28 hole and 36 hole variations. The 36, which is what I have, can be hard to find - at least in the US.
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That is a tubular tire, not tubeless, although Tufo makes tubular tires that do not have inner tubes, most tubular tires have inner tubes sewn inside the outside casing of the tire
#38
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On the track, a lock ring really doesn’t do that much. One or two hard accelerations, and the cog is on tight enough that you will have to lock up the rear wheel to break the cog loose. If you have to slow down that fast in a track race, well, you have already crashed.
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Notice that there are two different diameter threads on there. The cog goes on the inner CW thread. The outer thread is CCW. The lock ring goes here.
When you pedal forward the cog will self tighten. When you backpedal the lock ring will self tighten.
#40
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Of course I don't want to ruin that bike in any way. If I would go with new rear hub, I would buy new rim. Dont want to damage this beautiful wheels with nice string joins.
Keeping that in mind I still want to ride this bike just because I like it and I am not track enthusiast at all So I need to adjust (without any destructive changes) it somehow or sell it.
Keeping that in mind I still want to ride this bike just because I like it and I am not track enthusiast at all So I need to adjust (without any destructive changes) it somehow or sell it.
BUT, that is a poor choice for skid stopping, I think using a tubular tire (glued on type as mentioned) is silly, any skid stops will wear to the casing very quickly.
Way back, we rode the track without lockrings. Made for faster cog changes. About 1975, the officials were issued orders to inspect bikes for lock rings before events. Prior to that, no problem.
It is now a UCI thing for track racing. Everyone lives with the rules.
A true lock ring is slightly smaller thread diameter than the cog and has reverse lefthand threading. There are essentially three standards, the French, Campagnolo, and everyone else.
Just looked on ebay and there are plenty of coaster brake hubs in chrome to be found, in 36 spoke count. For a street use, want to skid wheel, get a clincher rim, the tires can be found in many tread weights.
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#41
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Importing from Japan you may find a a front brake mount that bolts onto track bikes .. Keirin racers train on their race bikes on the streets
and add a front brake they remove when back in the velodrome..
and add a front brake they remove when back in the velodrome..
#42
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Last edited by St33lWh33ls; 09-12-20 at 03:32 PM.
#43
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Coaster brake
So this is how the bike looks like today. I’ve got two old tires. Front one is tubular type and the rear is classic one with inner tube. The rear tire also has coaster brake installed and I only need to install front brake now
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I wouldnt add a front brake, it looks nice and clean without one. Im suprised that not alot of single speeds dont use coaster brakes, makes for a clean and silent setup.
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I would insulate the chainstay from that coaster brake arm clamp with something though, especially if you are going to be doing skid stops, maybe thinwall clear tubing so as not to mar the chainstay.
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#47
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I think that's a SRAM Automatix - a two-speed kickback. Gives you both a quality coaster and two gears with no extra cables.
Sturmey makes one as well in the all-important, clear anodized aluminum color you wish:
https://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Arche.../dp/B0041X814O
This is, of course, provided you like the idea of a kickback two-speed.
-Kurt
Sturmey makes one as well in the all-important, clear anodized aluminum color you wish:
https://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Arche.../dp/B0041X814O
This is, of course, provided you like the idea of a kickback two-speed.
-Kurt
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