Bike seat recommendations?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3
Bikes: Nishiki Prestige
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bike seat recommendations?
I just got a free bike and the seat is not doing it for me. I’m looking for a comfortable seat that doesn’t feel like I’m sitting on an elbow. I’m very new to the hobby (like a week in) so any advice is welcome. My bike is a nishiki prestige (I think) but I’m not concerned about keeping original parts, if that’s a thing. Just want a comfy seat. Tia!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 521
Bikes: 2015 Felt Z75 Disc, 2008 Fuji Cross Comp, 2010 Trek Navigator 1.0, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1974 Schwinn Le Tour, 1981 Schwinn Super Le Tour, Surly Cross Check, 2021 Giant Talon 2
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 202 Post(s)
Liked 71 Times
in
60 Posts
I just got a free bike and the seat is not doing it for me. I’m looking for a comfortable seat that doesn’t feel like I’m sitting on an elbow. I’m very new to the hobby (like a week in) so any advice is welcome. My bike is a nishiki prestige (I think) but I’m not concerned about keeping original parts, if that’s a thing. Just want a comfy seat. Tia!
WTB Rocket is my favorite saddle.
__________________
check out the Frugal Average Bicyclist
Frugal Average Bicyclist – The goal here is to help you keep cycling on a budget.
check out the Frugal Average Bicyclist
Frugal Average Bicyclist – The goal here is to help you keep cycling on a budget.
Likes For BikingViking793:
#3
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times
in
1,439 Posts
+1 on WTB. Pure, Rocket, and Volt have all worked for me.
Here's a link to their saddle fitting guiide: https://www.wtb.com/pages/fit-right-system
Here's a link to their saddle fitting guiide: https://www.wtb.com/pages/fit-right-system
#4
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,976
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6185 Post(s)
Liked 4,803 Times
in
3,313 Posts
Takes a few weeks for your butt to get used to riding. If you are new to riding or haven't ridden in quite a while then it can be quite the pain for some of us.
If your pain is just something you feel in the bones or joints of your pelvis, then just bear with it and keep riding. Once you get past the pain part and over it, then you can try out different saddles if needed for better comfort. Otherwise, the saddles you get while in the painful phase of getting use to riding won't be the correct saddles to have.
If it is an actual sore or skin irritation, then something else needs to be done for that.
If your pain is just something you feel in the bones or joints of your pelvis, then just bear with it and keep riding. Once you get past the pain part and over it, then you can try out different saddles if needed for better comfort. Otherwise, the saddles you get while in the painful phase of getting use to riding won't be the correct saddles to have.
If it is an actual sore or skin irritation, then something else needs to be done for that.
Likes For Iride01:
#5
Full Member
I think you received some good advice concerning time. Also, you may want to check out if you are fitted properly. Too much reach/not enough with legs and or arms can make various parts of your body uncomfortable. If after doing adjustments or just more trial, you are still uncomfortable, the Brooks B17 works great for me and I like the Terry for men. But remember, saddles are very personal.
Likes For debade:
#6
Tractorlegs
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 3,185
Bikes: Schwinn Meridian Single-Speed Tricycle
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 119 Post(s)
Liked 60 Times
in
42 Posts
I agree. Your behind always hurts when you're a new cyclist, regardless of the saddle brand. Give it a coupl'a weeks then make a decision.
__________________
********************************
Trikeman
Trikeman
Likes For Mark Stone:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 219
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked 69 Times
in
51 Posts
How the bike is fitted to you - the height and position of the seat and the height of the bars- can make the difference for choosing a new saddle, if it turns out that the saddle you have isn't the best choice.
For instance, it's possible to set a road bike for more upright pedalling. A saddle that's good for that may not be comfortable if you change to a lower position (higher seat, lower bars).
Saddles get expensive if you start buying them to experiment, so give the one you have some time.
#8
Senior Member
No seat will be comfortable until you get your backside used to riding. This usually takes a couple of weeks of short or medium rides. Once your backside has toughened up, you can start looking for which saddle is the most comfortable. For myself, having owned many bikes and using numerous different saddles, I have settled on the Brooks B17 for my casual bikes, and a Brooks Swift for my racer.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 219
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked 69 Times
in
51 Posts
TheViverRiver Make some short posts in other discussion threads and 'Introductions'. Once you get your post count up past 10, it will be easy for you to post pics of your bike and the way it is set up here in the discussion .
Or you can post some pics to 'Gallery' ('MyPics') and somebody here will put the pics in the thread for you.
A picture might show some interesting details.
For instance, a saddle that is tilted up or down too much can be very uncomfortable - small adjustments can make a difference.
Or you can post some pics to 'Gallery' ('MyPics') and somebody here will put the pics in the thread for you.
A picture might show some interesting details.
For instance, a saddle that is tilted up or down too much can be very uncomfortable - small adjustments can make a difference.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 675
Bikes: Soma Double Cross Disc (2017), red Hardrock FS (circa 1996)
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 217 Post(s)
Liked 155 Times
in
102 Posts
In addition to what others said, you can measure the sit bone width. This can be done by sitting on some memory foam (optionally covered with thin metal foil) and measuring the distance between the impressions. The saddle width should be roughly this distance + 2cm. The measurement may depend on how far you lean forward and depend on your flexibility. Repeat the measurement several times and check the consistency. Too narrow saddle will feel like a hatchet which is not possible to get used to because it will press on the soft tissues.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,173
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
That's like asking what is the best tasting food. Everyone has a different butt. The best you can do is ensure you get the proper width and then try to decide if you prefer a flat or curved saddle. Some people also like saddles that have a little rise in the back, others don't. After that you basically have to roll the dice. As long as it's the proper width and you have the tilt adjusted perfectly then most saddles should be comfortable.
You'll always get poor opinions because Joe might buy saddle A, but he doesn't know how to properly adjust it and he tells everyone isn't not a good one when all he had to do was get the tilt right. My biggest deal is I only buy saddles with actual real leather covers and not fake leather.
You'll always get poor opinions because Joe might buy saddle A, but he doesn't know how to properly adjust it and he tells everyone isn't not a good one when all he had to do was get the tilt right. My biggest deal is I only buy saddles with actual real leather covers and not fake leather.
Likes For Lazyass:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 219
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked 69 Times
in
51 Posts
In addition to what others said, you can measure the sit bone width. This can be done by sitting on some memory foam (optionally covered with thin metal foil) and measuring the distance between the impressions. The saddle width should be roughly this distance + 2cm. The measurement may depend on how far you lean forward and depend on your flexibility. Repeat the measurement several times and check the consistency. Too narrow saddle will feel like a hatchet which is not possible to get used to because it will press on the soft tissues.
Video at
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,471
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked 1,626 Times
in
1,044 Posts
And the search go's on...
Sit in a box of sand. Stand up and take a good look. How wide and deep is the impression? Take some measurements.
Go from there.
And the search go's on...
Sit in a box of sand. Stand up and take a good look. How wide and deep is the impression? Take some measurements.
Go from there.
And the search go's on...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
#15
Habitual User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Altadena, CA
Posts: 7,966
Bikes: 2023 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2018 Trek Procaliber 9.9 RSL, 2018 Storck Fascenario.3 Platinum, 2003 Time VX Special Pro, 2001 Colnago VIP, 1999 Trek 9900 singlespeed, 1977 Nishiki ONP
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4933 Post(s)
Liked 8,072 Times
in
3,815 Posts
Your butt cheeks will make an impression in the sand, not your sit bones. You don't sit on a bike saddle with you butt cheeks.
__________________
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,471
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 960 Post(s)
Liked 1,626 Times
in
1,044 Posts
So... Sit Bones minimum and Center of the butt cheeks maximum?
I am not the expert. In reality I have never really found a perfect seat for me.
I do remember fondly the days I could ride a bicycle and did not really need a seat... Ha
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 727
Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
142 Posts
This ^^^^^^
How the bike is fitted to you - the height and position of the seat and the height of the bars- can make the difference for choosing a new saddle, if it turns out that the saddle you have isn't the best choice.
For instance, it's possible to set a road bike for more upright pedalling. A saddle that's good for that may not be comfortable if you change to a lower position (higher seat, lower bars).
Saddles get expensive if you start buying them to experiment, so give the one you have some time.
How the bike is fitted to you - the height and position of the seat and the height of the bars- can make the difference for choosing a new saddle, if it turns out that the saddle you have isn't the best choice.
For instance, it's possible to set a road bike for more upright pedalling. A saddle that's good for that may not be comfortable if you change to a lower position (higher seat, lower bars).
Saddles get expensive if you start buying them to experiment, so give the one you have some time.
I had the opposite problem. The new bike and saddle felt GREAT. I did a lot of local riding, but nothing too long as I got used to the new bike. However, at the first ride over 25 miles, it began to hurt. Cutting back the distance relieved it, but the next 20+ ride the pain returned with a vengence and I could not ride the next day. I did a lot of adjusting of saddle height and tilt, as well as stem swaps (LOVE those threadless stems), but that 25 mile wall remained. I finally determined it was due to the saddle being padded. Short rides the padding was nice, but after longer miles the padding was more compressed and road vibration was transmitted more sharply when I hit the stiff seat shell under the padding, and felt like a sharper impact. In effect the base saddle was not right and the paddling hid that. I went to an unpadded, but more flexible, saddle, and it was relieved. Short rule, a padded saddle profile, may not necessarily be the same as the underlying shell.
All in all, over the years I have been riding, I have spend more money seeking a decent saddle than any other single bicycle item. That is because saddles wear in, and bodies change, as both you and the saddle age. Finding the perfect intersection is largly trial and error, especially since you butt has the tie-breaking vote..
#19
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Well, before you buying anything let’s first make sure your seat is properly adjusted for you, and do remember when you are new to cycling or just getting back into it a week or two of aches is somewhat normal - stock with it and it’ll (usually) pass… IF you bike fits you correctly.
it could be your seat does fit you - but just needs a little tweaking to make it work for YOU.
1. set the seat height correctly for your leg length.
2. Now that you have your basic seat position done it’s time to dive into dialing in your fit.
so, once you have a saddle tilt position dialed in you like.
ride the bike and see if pain persists.
it could be your seat does fit you - but just needs a little tweaking to make it work for YOU.
1. set the seat height correctly for your leg length.
2. Now that you have your basic seat position done it’s time to dive into dialing in your fit.
so, once you have a saddle tilt position dialed in you like.
ride the bike and see if pain persists.
Likes For isabela65:
#20
Newbie
Well, before you buying anything let’s first make sure your seat is properly adjusted for you, and do remember when you are new to cycling or just getting back into it a week or two of aches is somewhat normal - stock with it and it’ll (usually) pass… IF you bike fits you correctly.
it could be your seat does fit you - but just needs a little tweaking to make it work for YOU.
1. set the seat height correctly for your leg length.
2. Now that you have your basic seat position done it’s time to dive into dialing in your fit.
so, once you have a saddle tilt position dialed in you like.
ride the bike and see if pain persists.
it could be your seat does fit you - but just needs a little tweaking to make it work for YOU.
1. set the seat height correctly for your leg length.
2. Now that you have your basic seat position done it’s time to dive into dialing in your fit.
so, once you have a saddle tilt position dialed in you like.
ride the bike and see if pain persists.
Likes For Ramshackle:
#21
Senior Member
Most people on road bikes put more weight on their pubic rami than on their sit-bones (ischial tuberosities), because they bend over from the hips.
Seat width is only part of the story. It's pretty easy to measure, so there's a lot of talk about it, but that's a lot like losing something in a dark corner of a room and looking for it where the light is good or seeing everything as a nail because your only tool is a hammer.
If you've just started riding, you've got to expect butt pain. Until I started using a trainer, every Spring I had to break myself into the bike again. It took 2-3 weeks of riding every 2nd or 3rd day for short distances (2 miles to start, gradually building miles up) before I could ride every day.
Seat width is only part of the story. It's pretty easy to measure, so there's a lot of talk about it, but that's a lot like losing something in a dark corner of a room and looking for it where the light is good or seeing everything as a nail because your only tool is a hammer.
If you've just started riding, you've got to expect butt pain. Until I started using a trainer, every Spring I had to break myself into the bike again. It took 2-3 weeks of riding every 2nd or 3rd day for short distances (2 miles to start, gradually building miles up) before I could ride every day.
Likes For philbob57: