Shifter worries
#101
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To be fair, age of the bikes mean nothing unless the bike is stored exposed to the elements. As KerryIrons says, how long is a piece of string? Mileage on each of these bikes would be a better indicator of what kind of maintenance needs to be done.
Conspiracy theory noted. cxwrench mostly sees bikes that rack up thousands of miles in a year. If you have bikes that only log 500 miles in a year, then every year would be excessive. If 2000 miles or more, cables once a year would be prudent. 5000 miles a year or more and you should probably replace housings as well as inspect under bar tape for handlebar corrosion. You don't want this to happen to you:
Conspiracy theory noted. cxwrench mostly sees bikes that rack up thousands of miles in a year. If you have bikes that only log 500 miles in a year, then every year would be excessive. If 2000 miles or more, cables once a year would be prudent. 5000 miles a year or more and you should probably replace housings as well as inspect under bar tape for handlebar corrosion. You don't want this to happen to you:
#102
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The oldest bike, the 2016 hard tail mountain bike, has over 4000 miles on it right now.
The road bike (the one you indicated that I should be having problems with annually because of notorious cable problems with Shimano shifiters) has around ~2900 miles.
Neither are a problem at the moment so I'll keep riding them as is. The obvious part is that I recognize that I don't need to change my cables and housing on an annual basis based on what some guy on the internet says. And as a bonus I keep more money in bank account.
The road bike (the one you indicated that I should be having problems with annually because of notorious cable problems with Shimano shifiters) has around ~2900 miles.
Neither are a problem at the moment so I'll keep riding them as is. The obvious part is that I recognize that I don't need to change my cables and housing on an annual basis based on what some guy on the internet says. And as a bonus I keep more money in bank account.
Mountain bike shifters don't have the cable eating problem. Shimano STI shifters of the 5700/6700/7900 generation and beyond have the problem. 2900 miles with no problems? You're very lucky or on borrowed time.
#103
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Yup. ~2900 on my 2021 Trek Domane. ~3500 on my girls 2020 Trek Domane. Zero shifting or shifter cable issues. And because of this thread I went out and checked them last night. Nothing wrong.
Also have a friend with the same bike...with even more miles than ours...Same deal...no shifter cable issue.
Also have a friend with the same bike...with even more miles than ours...Same deal...no shifter cable issue.
#104
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Garage queens don't need much maintenance.
#105
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As cxwrench and others have noted, mileage (rather than chronological age) is the key variable. Since I'm more into riding bikes than collecting them, my most ridden bikes get more miles per year than your bikes have gotten ever. Hence the yearly (or more frequent) cable replacement.
Garage queens don't need much maintenance.
Garage queens don't need much maintenance.
2000+ per year on my 2014 Synapse Carbon road bike which now has over 16K miles.
1000+ per year on my 2017 Jamis Renegade gravel bike which now has almost 6K miles.
Two of my mountain bikes each get less than 100 miles per year - both purchased used.
The other 3 are gathering dust right now.
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I had one rear brifter "crap out" a few years ago on a ride. Not sure of the right terminology but the ratchet mechanism (I guess pawls?) was worn down so it wouldn't shift or stay in gear. I guess it had about 20,000 miles on it. Probably more frequent cleaning would have helped it last longer.
Last edited by billyymc2; 12-04-22 at 04:04 AM.
#107
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When I commuted regularly before retiring it didn't take long to add replace cable when replacing chain annually. 6600 Ultegra

cable frayed at shifter won't allow the cable to release.

cable frayed at shifter won't allow the cable to release.
#108
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I had one rear brighter "crap out" a few years ago on a ride. Not sure of the right terminology but the ratchet mechanism (I guess pawls?) was worn down so it wouldn't shift or stay in gear. I guess it had about 20,000 miles on it. Probably more frequent cleaning would have helped it last longer.
The 6800 shifter bike has internal cable routing and I was sick and tired of replacing cables every 1500-2000 miles. I switched to SRAM Force 22 which so far as about 2000 miles. Other than a "user error" incident of forgetting a ferrule on the initial installation and having to do-over rear shifter cable after 500 miles, no problems so far.
I couldn't find a matching 5800 disc shifter, so I replaced the pair with used 6800 hydraulic shifters. Since this bike has external routing, changing cables is a breeze, so I stuck with Shimano.
#109
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Unfortunately, cable fragments often get stuck inside the shifter. There is no way to open up the shifter and remove them. They aren't serviceable.
#110
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It's why I bought an extra set when 6700 came out and they went on clearance many places.
#111
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Anything put together can be taken apart. It does take meticulous care and patience. I don't recommend it, but isn't impossible and parts are NA.
It's why I bought an extra set when 6700 came out and they went on clearance many places.
https://youtu.be/wJj6dASBMN0
It's why I bought an extra set when 6700 came out and they went on clearance many places.
https://youtu.be/wJj6dASBMN0
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#112
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As cxwrench and others have noted, mileage (rather than chronological age) is the key variable.
Since I'm more into riding bikes than collecting them, my most ridden bikes get more miles per year than your bikes have gotten ever. Hence the yearly (or more frequent) cable replacement.
Garage queens don't need much maintenance.
Garage queens don't need much maintenance.
Last edited by prj71; 12-05-22 at 08:49 AM.
#113
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You don't seem to ride any one bike very heavily -- esp your road bikes, which have the types of shifters we're discussing. Again, this has all been discussed repeatedly in this thread. Are you really this obtuse, or are you pulling our chains?
#114
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I also have about the most boneheadedly simple method of lubing the housing and cable without removing the cable. With your bike on the stand, shift into the lowest gear. Pedal so the derailleur aligns with the biggest cog in the rear. shift back to the smallest cog without pedaling. you now have enough slack to pop the housing out of the cable guides and lube the housing and cable, reverse to reinstall.. Do it once a week and your cables and housing will last longer.
#115
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Well This thread has gone all over the place. First I've been told I need to change the cable and housing annually no matter what according to cxwrench. Which is complete bunk.
Then you say "mileage is a key variable" - To a degree this would be correct.
And now we have drifted to "it depends on how frequently you shift and whether you live in a flatter or hillier area - This is probably the biggest key variable.
Seems to be a lack of consistency here is all I am saying.
Mountain bikes get used the most, but the road bikes have more mileage on them. I take longer rides on the road bikes than I do on the mountain bikes.
We've come to an impasse and will have to agree to disagree. When and if I start to notice poor shifting, I'll change the cables and housing. But I know with 100% certainty that it doesn't need to be done on an annual basis or biennial basis in my case. That's just throwing money away.
Then you say "mileage is a key variable" - To a degree this would be correct.
And now we have drifted to "it depends on how frequently you shift and whether you live in a flatter or hillier area - This is probably the biggest key variable.
Seems to be a lack of consistency here is all I am saying.
You don't seem to ride any one bike very heavily -- esp your road bikes, which have the types of shifters we're discussing.
We've come to an impasse and will have to agree to disagree. When and if I start to notice poor shifting, I'll change the cables and housing. But I know with 100% certainty that it doesn't need to be done on an annual basis or biennial basis in my case. That's just throwing money away.
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#116
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And you think that the rest of us are "all over the place"? Yikes.
#117
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You don't make sense. If "the road bikes have more mileage on them," that means that they "get used the most." Mileage is pretty much all that matter for shift cable wear and tear. But wait, you also wrote this, which directly contradicts your above statement:
So, the road bikes have more mileage on them...except that the mountain bike has more mileage on it.
And you think that the rest of us are "all over the place"? Yikes.
So, the road bikes have more mileage on them...except that the mountain bike has more mileage on it.
And you think that the rest of us are "all over the place"? Yikes.
Besides...Everyone knows that 10 mountain bike miles is roughly the equivalent of riding 25 road bike miles.

Last edited by prj71; 12-05-22 at 11:43 AM.
#118
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I think this is why the conversation is so difficult. You aren't even understanding some of the basics, though they've been thoroughly explained.
#119
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I fully understand the basics. I even fully understand that some of you like throwing away money on unnecessary maintenance.
But hey...You do you and I'll do me.
But hey...You do you and I'll do me.
#120
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Does that mean you do the same amount of shifting during both of these types of rides?
#121
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And as I have mentioned, if you haven't replaced your housings in some time, it's probably a good idea to at least unwrap your bar tape and check for corrosion - especially if you sweat a lot. This is not something you want to find out about while you're riding - much worse than having a shifter cable break.
#122
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As I and others have already stated, it all depends on how much shifting you do. There is no "magic mileage". I am happy for you that you haven't had any problems with STI shifters eating cables............yet. Which generation of shifters do you have?
And as I have mentioned, if you haven't replaced your housings in some time, it's probably a good idea to at least unwrap your bar tape and check for corrosion - especially if you sweat a lot. This is not something you want to find out about while you're riding - much worse than having a shifter cable break.
And as I have mentioned, if you haven't replaced your housings in some time, it's probably a good idea to at least unwrap your bar tape and check for corrosion - especially if you sweat a lot. This is not something you want to find out about while you're riding - much worse than having a shifter cable break.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...-sl-5/p/28311/
Shimano 105 R7025 and Shimano 105 R7020
We are planning to upgrade the bar tape next summer and I will look at the cable housing then. Being that the bikes are fairly new-ish, I'm not expecting to find any corrosion.
#123
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We both have these bikes. Hers is 2020 and mine is a 2021.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...-sl-5/p/28311/
Shimano 105 R7025 and Shimano 105 R7020
We are planning to upgrade the bar tape next summer and I will look at the cable housing then. Being that the bikes are fairly new-ish, I'm not expecting to find any corrosion.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...-sl-5/p/28311/
Shimano 105 R7025 and Shimano 105 R7020
We are planning to upgrade the bar tape next summer and I will look at the cable housing then. Being that the bikes are fairly new-ish, I'm not expecting to find any corrosion.
Checking under bar tape next summer would be prudent.
#124
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#125
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Of course you were shot down because they do 'all do it'. So much that Shimano made it easier to get into the bottom of the shifter to remove the broken cable on 8000/9100. Shimano and Campy shifters have frayed and broken cables since they started making Ergo/Sti levers. I've never had to pull a frayed or broken cable out of a SRAM or mountain bike shifter, and I worked for the first road team in the country that used SRAM, so that goes back to '06.