1989Pre 

Somehow, I managed to strip some threads on a solid hub axle on the drive side.
The nut takes a couple of turns and then releases. I can take the nut off no problem.
These are vintage British hubs, pretty rare. I suppose I can try to take the hub apart and
adjust the spindle to move it a few millimeters to the drive side and hope something catches.
Is that my best route? Or try some J.B. Weld?

Andrew R Stewart 

JB Weld won't do much but to lock the nut in place. Can you determine the axle threading? I suspect 3/8" x 26TPI (or 9.5mm x 26) as these were very common back then. If so then a replacement axle (and nut as it's likely also thread damaged too) should be easy to find, being the most current common solid spec. Andy

thook

perhaps a silly question, but did you try a new nut? if the threads are stripped and not too bad, you may be able to repair them. can take a picture?

i wouldn't use jb weld and expect it to hold very well under that kind of use. iow's, it's not at all designed for it

momoman

I bought an old Campy hub on EBay and the axle was stripped. I used a thread file and rolled the axle into the file, instead of clamping the axle down and filing it. I was able to restore the threads and the cone and locknut can now spin on and off with no resistance. Maybe you can try using a thread file and using a new nut as previously mentioned.

I had posted these pictures in the “What have you been wrenching on lately?” thread.



The axle was stripped and the cone nut could not be removed.

I twisted the axle forward and backwards across the file to restore the threads.

The axle after the repair.

Cleaned up and ready to be re-assembled.

1989Pre 

Andrew, Yes, those are the correct specs. I'll make sure I ask about the threading if I buy something.

Thook, I tried two different axle nuts (both of which worked fine on it before). I'll try to get a photo
when I take the wheel off. Thanks for the tip on the JB Weld.

Momoman, I had not heard of a thread file. I was looking at possibly investing in a thread die tool,
but the file seems less expensive. I'll have to really examine the threads to see the extent of the damage.

Andrew R Stewart 

Old time LBSs have/had the Bicycle Research thread chasers. These were nut like things that would not cut or remove material but try to reform thread profiles. You might call around and get lucky. But the cost of a replacement axle is pretty low. Andy

andrewclaus

If there's a bike co-op in your town they'll have a bin full of salvaged axles.

thook

if what Andrew says is correct on the thread sizing, to my recollection, any auto parts store should have the size in their thread repair rental kits (comes with files and chasers). i say rental, but it's really free, if you aren't aware. you get your money back when you return the tool/s

Dan Burkhart 

As far as I know 3/8 x 26 has few uses outside the bicycle world. A 3/8 UNF thread would be 24 tpi so I don't know if auto parts stores carry such a thing.

1989Pre 

Here is a photo of the British Hub Company Eurekas, from the 1950's. I'll take the rear apart and get some specs on the spindle.
Andrew R. Stewart, thanks. I'll ask about the thread chaser over at the co-op, which is the best vintage-knowledgeable shop in the area. If I buy new, I have to be sure I'm getting the correct specs.

Andrewclaus, I'll also ask them about axles.

Thook, I did not know that. That is definitely an option for me to keep-in-mind.

Dan Burkhart, thanks. I won't be too surprised, then, if they don't have it.

Andrew R Stewart 

What! Did you actually say that someone should buy a product, use it then expect their refund and refund??? Sorry but this attitude is just really bad and IMO unethical. As a lifer in the LBS and retail I would see tht we were out of stock and or too bust to ever help this consumer again if they tried this. It's boarder line stealing, plane and simple. Andy

momoman

No. Auto parts stores offer loaner tools for free. You pay for the tools, use them, return them and get your deposit back.

Advance Auto Parts Tool Loaner Program

Autozone loan-a-tool

edit: I corrected the name on the Advance Auto Parts link above. Also added the Autozone link.

dedhed

https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-...e-%20taps-dies

thook

you may be right about that. now i'm curious, though. gonna have to find out

thook

you misunderstand, friend. i clarified because rental usually implies you don't get your money back.
it's really fantastic that the stores do it because it saves the backyard mechanic a boat ton of money on the repairs requiring very specialized tools. quite often, those tools are expensive to buy though you may only ever use a tool like that once or twice in the life of your vehicle

dsbrantjr

I do not understand how removing metal from a threaded shaft which has worn/stripped to the point that a nut will not hold will be of any help. The thread form may be restored but the diameter will be reduced. I can see how rolling metal back into shape as Andrew Stewart suggests might work, though.

thook

sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, but not an uncommon practice. if it's a hard to find part (like with really old cars/bikes) it's worth a try...but always use a new nut. if it were situation where it's a single bolt/side holding all the (high) tension, it may not be a great idea. depends on torque and shank diameter and material. (hardened vs soft steel) in this case, though, he has the other end of the axle to split the difference on torque and axles are pretty hard.
sometimes (not necessarily on his axle) you can recut threads and go to a slightly smaller diameter. i've done it different situations, just not real often. eg...exhaust manifold studs come to mind. it can be easier to cut/rethread a frozen stud vs breaking it off and having to drill it out.
maybe my reply here is all TMI, but i'm feeling chatty on this rainy day

Andrew R Stewart 

It seems that I jumped to a conclusion about thook's comments. I have not heard of auto parts stores renting tools before, tool rental outfits yes but not otherwise retail shops. I take back my strong comments, sorry. Andy

SkinGriz

I’ve never done this on a bicycle, but I have done this for concrete anchors and column anchor nuts/bolts. So take for what it’s worth.

get an extra nut of the appropriate size. Screw it halfway unto an extra axle. So half the nut is not threaded. Cut straight down making 2 slots halfway down the nut - the half that isn’t threaded. Thread the rest of the way down, this will debur your cut and allow the cut side to thread onto the axle you say is stripped. You’ve now made a makeshift thread chaser. Thread it down, slotted side first onto the stripped male threads. It will clean up the threads if they aren’t too bad.

If it really is stripped and not just banged or galled, get a new axle.

Andrew R Stewart 

This is the principle of the Bicycle Research thread chasers. Except they are hardened and have better cut face finishing. Andy

SkinGriz

Because sometimes the threads might be riding on top of each other and sometimes steel is plastic or springy enough to allow it.

SkinGriz

For sure. The correct die would be great also.

My experience is just not always in the shop with all the correct tools. More like “Ah shoot, quick grab the torch/grinder/portaband before the inspector comes around.”

SkinGriz

Another thought. Every time a fastener is screwed in or out it is losing a tiny bit of material. On the bolts that hold AH64 driveshafts together there is a check called “nutation torque check.” Basically the bolt threads into a stover type thread nut plate. If it threads in too easy the bolts and nut plates get replaced.

thook

no problem

1989Pre 

Update: Since I had no problem getting the nut off (it would just not thread completely on), I took the hub apart and moved the axle over to the damaged (drive) side a bit, maybe 7mm. Now, the nut threads right on. Somehow, it threaded past the slightly-damaged threads and made it to the area of the good ones that were then revealed. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. They were almost necessary, and might come in handy in the future.