Light Bicycle Wheels
#1351
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You have spare wheels now, which can be handy for keeping, eg. a wider set of more durable tires for training or light gravel purposes, or if you break a rim / spoke / whatever but still need to go riding. Or, for instance, I just built myself a gravel bike out of repurposed parts and a new frame - mismatched wheels but it looks good.
Most manufacturers will save on wheels on everything which isn't top spec stuff. Buying something midrange and then eventually adding a pair of LB wheels is a lot more affordable route to get what is all in all a really good bike.
Most manufacturers will save on wheels on everything which isn't top spec stuff. Buying something midrange and then eventually adding a pair of LB wheels is a lot more affordable route to get what is all in all a really good bike.
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#1352
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You have spare wheels now, which can be handy for keeping, eg. a wider set of more durable tires for training or light gravel purposes, or if you break a rim / spoke / whatever but still need to go riding. Or, for instance, I just built myself a gravel bike out of repurposed parts and a new frame - mismatched wheels but it looks good.
Most manufacturers will save on wheels on everything which isn't top spec stuff. Buying something midrange and then eventually adding a pair of LB wheels is a lot more affordable route to get what is all in all a really good bike.
Most manufacturers will save on wheels on everything which isn't top spec stuff. Buying something midrange and then eventually adding a pair of LB wheels is a lot more affordable route to get what is all in all a really good bike.
I'm a beginner and for now I follow one simple rule: the more I ride the more I will get fit. So I have a low budget road bike (Trek Domane AL2) + low budget gravel bike (Triban RC520) + low budget mtb (Vitus Sentier 29). It allows me to ride whatever the weather/surface. They all have crappy wheels of course so I'm wondering what would be the next step. Upgrading the bike or the wheels. Don't get me wrong my bikes are great (I would even say awesome) in their price bracket, I ask out of curiosity.
Last edited by Pulse_; 08-19-21 at 07:09 AM.
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#1353
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What are the benefits of upgrading wheels alone rather than re-sell the bike and upgrade for a bike with better wheels? I mean, is there a financial benefit to upgrade the wheelset rather than the bike? What do you do with the original wheels? I'm a noob, sorry for the basic questions.
These two things added together will change how a bike rides and handles in a positive way. Often the financial advantage to upgrading only the wheelset is that (a) selling a used bike usually nets very little money in relationship to the original cost of the bike, and (b) to get to an "upgraded" wheelset on a bike, often you'd be looking at the top one or two models in a model range, where buying in the midrange and then buying a wheelset may only be 60-70% of the price of the top end model, and the quality difference in components from the mid to the top is not nearly as stark as the wheels.
Keep the originals, shod them with a different set of tires for different riding. Cobblestones, for instance, or riding the farm roads that turn muddy when it is raining here.
#1354
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Often times for a even several hundred Euros, one can get a lighter wheelset that wouldn't seem like an absurd purchase for an entry level bike, and if one is willing to get up in the 1000-1200€ range you can get massively lighter wheelsets. Upgrading a whole bike would invariably cost much more, and the wheelset unless you're willing to buy an 8000-10000€ bicycle would likely not be as large of an improvement as a mid-range aftermarket wheelset.
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The benefit of upgraded wheels, on a road bike, usually means lighter weight, and often some sort of aerodynamic rim profile.
These two things added together will change how a bike rides and handles in a positive way. Often the financial advantage to upgrading only the wheelset is that (a) selling a used bike usually nets very little money in relationship to the original cost of the bike, and (b) to get to an "upgraded" wheelset on a bike, often you'd be looking at the top one or two models in a model range, where buying in the midrange and then buying a wheelset may only be 60-70% of the price of the top end model, and the quality difference in components from the mid to the top is not nearly as stark as the wheels.
Keep the originals, shod them with a different set of tires for different riding. Cobblestones, for instance, or riding the farm roads that turn muddy when it is raining here.
These two things added together will change how a bike rides and handles in a positive way. Often the financial advantage to upgrading only the wheelset is that (a) selling a used bike usually nets very little money in relationship to the original cost of the bike, and (b) to get to an "upgraded" wheelset on a bike, often you'd be looking at the top one or two models in a model range, where buying in the midrange and then buying a wheelset may only be 60-70% of the price of the top end model, and the quality difference in components from the mid to the top is not nearly as stark as the wheels.
Keep the originals, shod them with a different set of tires for different riding. Cobblestones, for instance, or riding the farm roads that turn muddy when it is raining here.
#1356
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I have done that in the instances where I sold the bike. Wheels don't necessarily get obsolete. But, technology will improve over time. Generally, the improvements seem to be incremental except when they aren't, such as when the great leap forward from rim brakes being the standard on road bikes was suddenly supplanted by disc brakes in the last 2 years. To your question of used wheels: yes, with some conditions. It's important to ensure the rim is not cracked, especially at the nipple holes, or damaged at the bead seat, and that the hub flanges are not damaged. In general, bicycle wheels can be rebuilt indefinitely as log as none of those limiting conditions is present.
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That's an interesting question. Consider this, the single heaviest sub-assembly of most bicycles is the wheelset. I recently bought a gravel bike, a mid range offering with carbon frame, 1x Di2 shifting, and a very heavy (2.340g total) wheelset. For 1400€, I bought a new wheelset that in total weighs 1.560g. The bike is hugely more enjoyable to ride. To get a similar wheelset specified on a bike in that model range, I'd have had to buy an S-Works level bike at more than 10000€
Often times for a even several hundred Euros, one can get a lighter wheelset that wouldn't seem like an absurd purchase for an entry level bike, and if one is willing to get up in the 1000-1200€ range you can get massively lighter wheelsets. Upgrading a whole bike would invariably cost much more, and the wheelset unless you're willing to buy an 8000-10000€ bicycle would likely not be as large of an improvement as a mid-range aftermarket wheelset.
Often times for a even several hundred Euros, one can get a lighter wheelset that wouldn't seem like an absurd purchase for an entry level bike, and if one is willing to get up in the 1000-1200€ range you can get massively lighter wheelsets. Upgrading a whole bike would invariably cost much more, and the wheelset unless you're willing to buy an 8000-10000€ bicycle would likely not be as large of an improvement as a mid-range aftermarket wheelset.
#1358
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Unfortunately, the Trek while excellent as an entry level bike is sporting a drivetrain (8 speed) and braking system (rim) that will only become increasingly rare in the future. I'd ride the Trek until you are ready for a new bike, then look for the next with at least an 11-speed drivetrain and disc brakes, then consider wheels for that bike.
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No, the freehubs that the cassettes are mounted to are different. Also, the rim construction for rim brakes is different than for disc brakes (no braking track is necessary on these). In fact, I'd say if you were to buy wheels for your current bikes, I'd only recommend it for the Triban. Though it is a low cost Decathlon bike, most quality wheelsets can have their end caps swapped, so a wheelset you put on the Triban with a QR dropout could very easily be converted to Thru-Axle later by changing the end caps on the hubs.
Unfortunately, the Trek while excellent as an entry level bike is sporting a drivetrain (8 speed) and braking system (rim) that will only become increasingly rare in the future. I'd ride the Trek until you are ready for a new bike, then look for the next with at least an 11-speed drivetrain and disc brakes, then consider wheels for that bike.
Unfortunately, the Trek while excellent as an entry level bike is sporting a drivetrain (8 speed) and braking system (rim) that will only become increasingly rare in the future. I'd ride the Trek until you are ready for a new bike, then look for the next with at least an 11-speed drivetrain and disc brakes, then consider wheels for that bike.
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LB ran a Black Friday deal where you could pay a $50 deposit and get the BF discount thru next Feb. That would be better for me because I can get the entire purchase comped next year by my company. It also means I have a month or so to decide on a build.
I'm leaning toward a flyweight WR50 front wheel because while I'm light at 64kg, I vastly prefer at least a 28mm front tire, and I could take it on some gravel with one of my bikes that has up to ~38mm of clearance. And because I'm light and enjoy climbing, thinking it makes sense to go a bit weight weenie with Carbon-Ti hubs, especially since LB told me that DT Swiss parts have a huge lead time and I wanted parts to convert between thru-axle and QR so I could use the wheels on two different bikes.
What I can't decide on are whether to go hookless (already converted to tubeless, not going back to tubes nor running pressures above 60 PSI), and whether to get a deeper rear, like the WR55 or even AR65. While I can get buffeted by crosswinds even on my shallow rims today, I'll also not purposely use these new wheels on super windy days until I gain confidence in them, so lightweight but providing pure flat speed in solo riding under not-too-wild conditions is what I'm after. Don't know if going 5mm deeper in the rear is even worth doing though, and the ARs are a non-Pro line so getting the finish to look the same might be a hassle.
I'm leaning toward a flyweight WR50 front wheel because while I'm light at 64kg, I vastly prefer at least a 28mm front tire, and I could take it on some gravel with one of my bikes that has up to ~38mm of clearance. And because I'm light and enjoy climbing, thinking it makes sense to go a bit weight weenie with Carbon-Ti hubs, especially since LB told me that DT Swiss parts have a huge lead time and I wanted parts to convert between thru-axle and QR so I could use the wheels on two different bikes.
What I can't decide on are whether to go hookless (already converted to tubeless, not going back to tubes nor running pressures above 60 PSI), and whether to get a deeper rear, like the WR55 or even AR65. While I can get buffeted by crosswinds even on my shallow rims today, I'll also not purposely use these new wheels on super windy days until I gain confidence in them, so lightweight but providing pure flat speed in solo riding under not-too-wild conditions is what I'm after. Don't know if going 5mm deeper in the rear is even worth doing though, and the ARs are a non-Pro line so getting the finish to look the same might be a hassle.
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Okay .... sorry if I am missing all the points but I am multi-tasking but have a need to see myself type stuff online
I have several sets of Vuelta wheels, which get bad reviews from a lot of people but not apparently from people who use them. I have also bought a set of cheapish ($500) Chinese CF wheels .... In all cases, I can say that light wheels are a huge upgrade over bad, heavy wheels. If your bike's wheels are in the 1400-1800-gram range, you might not notice if you just knocked off a couple hundred grams .... and you pretty much have to get lighter, more supple tires along with the wheels, which might mean more flats ....
And yes, when you sell your older bikes, sell them with the original wheels. No one will pay you nearly what any of it is "worth" (in terms of what you paid) so keep the good parts.
I weigh a lot and use way fewer spokes than people suggest I should, but even so I find my wheels last quite well .... so I can recommend cheaper, lighter, better wheels. You can spend thousands of dollars on wheels, or you can spend hundreds on wheels the cognoscenti will ridicule, but if they can hold up me (eighth of a ton) I pretty much I have to think you can get by with a great set of wheels for under $500 and keep them for years.
I have several sets of Vuelta wheels, which get bad reviews from a lot of people but not apparently from people who use them. I have also bought a set of cheapish ($500) Chinese CF wheels .... In all cases, I can say that light wheels are a huge upgrade over bad, heavy wheels. If your bike's wheels are in the 1400-1800-gram range, you might not notice if you just knocked off a couple hundred grams .... and you pretty much have to get lighter, more supple tires along with the wheels, which might mean more flats ....
And yes, when you sell your older bikes, sell them with the original wheels. No one will pay you nearly what any of it is "worth" (in terms of what you paid) so keep the good parts.
I weigh a lot and use way fewer spokes than people suggest I should, but even so I find my wheels last quite well .... so I can recommend cheaper, lighter, better wheels. You can spend thousands of dollars on wheels, or you can spend hundreds on wheels the cognoscenti will ridicule, but if they can hold up me (eighth of a ton) I pretty much I have to think you can get by with a great set of wheels for under $500 and keep them for years.
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LB ran a Black Friday deal where you could pay a $50 deposit and get the BF discount thru next Feb. That would be better for me because I can get the entire purchase comped next year by my company. It also means I have a month or so to decide on a build.
I'm leaning toward a flyweight WR50 front wheel because while I'm light at 64kg, I vastly prefer at least a 28mm front tire, and I could take it on some gravel with one of my bikes that has up to ~38mm of clearance. And because I'm light and enjoy climbing, thinking it makes sense to go a bit weight weenie with Carbon-Ti hubs, especially since LB told me that DT Swiss parts have a huge lead time and I wanted parts to convert between thru-axle and QR so I could use the wheels on two different bikes.
What I can't decide on are whether to go hookless (already converted to tubeless, not going back to tubes nor running pressures above 60 PSI), and whether to get a deeper rear, like the WR55 or even AR65. While I can get buffeted by crosswinds even on my shallow rims today, I'll also not purposely use these new wheels on super windy days until I gain confidence in them, so lightweight but providing pure flat speed in solo riding under not-too-wild conditions is what I'm after. Don't know if going 5mm deeper in the rear is even worth doing though, and the ARs are a non-Pro line so getting the finish to look the same might be a hassle.
I'm leaning toward a flyweight WR50 front wheel because while I'm light at 64kg, I vastly prefer at least a 28mm front tire, and I could take it on some gravel with one of my bikes that has up to ~38mm of clearance. And because I'm light and enjoy climbing, thinking it makes sense to go a bit weight weenie with Carbon-Ti hubs, especially since LB told me that DT Swiss parts have a huge lead time and I wanted parts to convert between thru-axle and QR so I could use the wheels on two different bikes.
What I can't decide on are whether to go hookless (already converted to tubeless, not going back to tubes nor running pressures above 60 PSI), and whether to get a deeper rear, like the WR55 or even AR65. While I can get buffeted by crosswinds even on my shallow rims today, I'll also not purposely use these new wheels on super windy days until I gain confidence in them, so lightweight but providing pure flat speed in solo riding under not-too-wild conditions is what I'm after. Don't know if going 5mm deeper in the rear is even worth doing though, and the ARs are a non-Pro line so getting the finish to look the same might be a hassle.
#1363
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LB ran a Black Friday deal where you could pay a $50 deposit and get the BF discount thru next Feb. That would be better for me because I can get the entire purchase comped next year by my company. It also means I have a month or so to decide on a build.
I'm leaning toward a flyweight WR50 front wheel because while I'm light at 64kg, I vastly prefer at least a 28mm front tire, and I could take it on some gravel with one of my bikes that has up to ~38mm of clearance. And because I'm light and enjoy climbing, thinking it makes sense to go a bit weight weenie with Carbon-Ti hubs, especially since LB told me that DT Swiss parts have a huge lead time and I wanted parts to convert between thru-axle and QR so I could use the wheels on two different bikes.
What I can't decide on are whether to go hookless (already converted to tubeless, not going back to tubes nor running pressures above 60 PSI), and whether to get a deeper rear, like the WR55 or even AR65. While I can get buffeted by crosswinds even on my shallow rims today, I'll also not purposely use these new wheels on super windy days until I gain confidence in them, so lightweight but providing pure flat speed in solo riding under not-too-wild conditions is what I'm after. Don't know if going 5mm deeper in the rear is even worth doing though, and the ARs are a non-Pro line so getting the finish to look the same might be a hassle.
I'm leaning toward a flyweight WR50 front wheel because while I'm light at 64kg, I vastly prefer at least a 28mm front tire, and I could take it on some gravel with one of my bikes that has up to ~38mm of clearance. And because I'm light and enjoy climbing, thinking it makes sense to go a bit weight weenie with Carbon-Ti hubs, especially since LB told me that DT Swiss parts have a huge lead time and I wanted parts to convert between thru-axle and QR so I could use the wheels on two different bikes.
What I can't decide on are whether to go hookless (already converted to tubeless, not going back to tubes nor running pressures above 60 PSI), and whether to get a deeper rear, like the WR55 or even AR65. While I can get buffeted by crosswinds even on my shallow rims today, I'll also not purposely use these new wheels on super windy days until I gain confidence in them, so lightweight but providing pure flat speed in solo riding under not-too-wild conditions is what I'm after. Don't know if going 5mm deeper in the rear is even worth doing though, and the ARs are a non-Pro line so getting the finish to look the same might be a hassle.
#1364
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First time LB ran such a promo; pay $50 plus their PayPal convenience fee charge to get a promo code good for $50 plus whatever discounts they ran over BF/CM in the next couple months, which were 15% off their Pro line and 10% off non-Pro from their Global or EU warehouses.
I'm leaning back towards getting hooked rims just because it'll be a pain getting good hookless compatible tires, but still undecided about whether to get a deeper rear wheel. I suppose I should ask LB whether they can make an AR65 in the same finish as a WR50.
I'm leaning back towards getting hooked rims just because it'll be a pain getting good hookless compatible tires, but still undecided about whether to get a deeper rear wheel. I suppose I should ask LB whether they can make an AR65 in the same finish as a WR50.
#1365
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First time LB ran such a promo; pay $50 plus their PayPal convenience fee charge to get a promo code good for $50 plus whatever discounts they ran over BF/CM in the next couple months, which were 15% off their Pro line and 10% off non-Pro from their Global or EU warehouses.
I'm leaning back towards getting hooked rims just because it'll be a pain getting good hookless compatible tires, but still undecided about whether to get a deeper rear wheel. I suppose I should ask LB whether they can make an AR65 in the same finish as a WR50.
I'm leaning back towards getting hooked rims just because it'll be a pain getting good hookless compatible tires, but still undecided about whether to get a deeper rear wheel. I suppose I should ask LB whether they can make an AR65 in the same finish as a WR50.
55mm front and 65mm rear
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Anyone else place an order during the black friday sale? If so, have you received your order yet?
I ordered my AR45 set on 11/27, still hasn't been built yet. I've been checking on the status everyday to see progress. One has gotten to "QC" twice, only to start back over at "material prepare." I wonder how accurate that really is?
I ordered my AR45 set on 11/27, still hasn't been built yet. I've been checking on the status everyday to see progress. One has gotten to "QC" twice, only to start back over at "material prepare." I wonder how accurate that really is?
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Anyone else place an order during the black friday sale? If so, have you received your order yet?
I ordered my AR45 set on 11/27, still hasn't been built yet. I've been checking on the status everyday to see progress. One has gotten to "QC" twice, only to start back over at "material prepare." I wonder how accurate that really is?
I ordered my AR45 set on 11/27, still hasn't been built yet. I've been checking on the status everyday to see progress. One has gotten to "QC" twice, only to start back over at "material prepare." I wonder how accurate that really is?
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I've had the same experience.My last set of wheels, ordered from them late last spring, got caught up in the supply chain snafus and took much too long. BUT, when I emailed them about it, they were responsive and honest. Patience was required, and they did the best they could under challenging circumstances.
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Light Bicycle carbon rims are the real deal.
I thought I would add my 2 cents in this thread as I have recently bought a pair of LB carbon rims for a new gravel bike build. Customer service was exceptional from both asking questions to the ordering process. Emails were responded to promptly and ordering made-to-order rims on their website was very straight forward. It took about a month for the rims to arrive which was expected. What I didn't expect was a fairly comprehensive user manual with building tips including recommended spoke tensions.
I've laced and tensioned the first wheel and these rims build up really nicely -- these rims build up to a very solid wheel. I can report back once I've put some miles on the new build.
Carbon rims from Light Bicycle.
I've laced and tensioned the first wheel and these rims build up really nicely -- these rims build up to a very solid wheel. I can report back once I've put some miles on the new build.
Carbon rims from Light Bicycle.
#1374
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I'm considering both the Falcon Pro WR50 and AR50s for a road bike. I want to run 28s on them. I think the WR50s will be a bit more aerodynamic while offering a wider footprint, has anyone tried to run tubeless 28s on the WR50?
#1375
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Cool, it led me pull the trigger on their X-flow/Wavy, aerodynamic (I saw the CFD chart) AR465.
lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Introducing-Falcon-Pro-AR375---AR465.html
lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Introducing-Falcon-Pro-AR375---AR465.html
Last edited by zhoushenglin; 05-03-22 at 01:00 AM.