Riding terrain,What terrain characteristics you ride on?
#1
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Riding terrain,What terrain characteristics you ride on?
Mainly Downhill Focused? Or Mainly Flat?
What kind of Wheels more suitable?
Brand: Trifox
Model: RW100
Type: light weight wheelset
Style: Quick Release
Material: Toray T700 Carbon Fiber
Size: 700C
Depth: 38mm/45mm/50mm/60mm
Let's discussion together!!!
What kind of Wheels more suitable?
Brand: Trifox
Model: RW100
Type: light weight wheelset
Style: Quick Release
Material: Toray T700 Carbon Fiber
Size: 700C
Depth: 38mm/45mm/50mm/60mm
Let's discussion together!!!
#2
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For me, climbing and downhill ... not a lot of flat.
Personally, I prefer wheels that are reasonably light, non aero, and if they have bladed spokes, only lightly bladed. Reasonably light for obvious reasons. Non-aero because that minimizes weight at the periphery and reduces the moment of inertia around the rotational axis, and also makes them more stable in crosswinds. Non-bladed spokes for the same reason (crosswind susceptibility).
I've had some bad experience with rear hubs in the past, so for that ... conventional and robust design is preferable.
Personally, I prefer wheels that are reasonably light, non aero, and if they have bladed spokes, only lightly bladed. Reasonably light for obvious reasons. Non-aero because that minimizes weight at the periphery and reduces the moment of inertia around the rotational axis, and also makes them more stable in crosswinds. Non-bladed spokes for the same reason (crosswind susceptibility).
I've had some bad experience with rear hubs in the past, so for that ... conventional and robust design is preferable.
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After popping a few spokes and cracking my Fulcrum 5 rear rim, I needed something more robust at 205 lbs and most of my rides are a minimum of 100 feet of ascent per mile on rough pavement.
I had prowheelbuilder build up a pair of Ventus 31mm deep alloy rims with 28 hole front and 32 hole rear and Sapim Race Round Double Butted spokes on White Industry hubs. So far so good. Not fast by any means, but I wanted something that would last without mechanical issues.
I had prowheelbuilder build up a pair of Ventus 31mm deep alloy rims with 28 hole front and 32 hole rear and Sapim Race Round Double Butted spokes on White Industry hubs. So far so good. Not fast by any means, but I wanted something that would last without mechanical issues.
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#4
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Constantly rolling terrain. 4 - 6% grades and typically just 30 to 50 feet of elevation change with each climb. And for the most part fairly smooth asphalt or concrete. Though I do have to avoid cracks and potholes.
Round wheels I suppose. <grin>
What kind of Wheels more suitable?
#5
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I've never had any problem with my Belgian Weinmann rims and Normandy high-flange hubs. I try to ride as flat as possible, but I live in the mountains.
#6
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Hills and mountains, 50'-120'/mile. I build my own wheels, somewhat aero alu rims, CX-Ray spokes.
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i like going down. but first i have to pay by going up. my wheels are boring rim brake non-aero alloy relatively new.
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Well, I have wheels for riding just about everything because I ride everything…….except single track. Both rim brake and disc. Regardless I always opt for lighter weight and durability over aero. Except for time trial wheels. Those are all about aerodynamics for me. All my wheels are clinchers with tubes, although I have a few wheels that could run tubeless.
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Yesterday's ride was to celebrate my 72nd Birthday, statistics follow >>>
Distance = 101.08mi, Moving Time = 6:33:08
ELEVATION = 62ft Kind of FLAT terrain
Distance = 101.08mi, Moving Time = 6:33:08
ELEVATION = 62ft Kind of FLAT terrain
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Where I ride is mainly farms but with hills and usually wind. It can be anywhere from 60-80 ft/mi of climbing. My Mavic USTs do well.
#12
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I've always had trouble understanding how if I like to go down the hill, I don't also have to go back up, to where the car is parked.
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Flat...what's that? Around here every ride averages about 100' elevation gain per mile, often more, occasionally less. There is little choice in the matter. I'm not sure what wheel type has to do with terrain. Everybody wants light, but durable is more important for long rides where there's no cell coverage or easy way to get home.
#14
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Hugging the sea with mountains all around. Generally rolling if following the few and limited roads around the sea. Wicked climbs if go into the mountains. Alloy wheels.
Mike
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#15
Old Worn Treads
That describes my rides, too, although my climbs, when I WANT THEM TO BE, are longer with more elevation change. And I can vary my rides and have easy days 95% flat with just one climb.
Mavic OP wheels. Preferably round.
Mavic OP wheels. Preferably round.
#16
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But what was weather? Down in Florida was it 95 degrees and 95% humidity? That would make it harder than a hilly ride in 70 degree weather.
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Clear -- Temperature 83 ℉ -- Humidity 69% -- Feels like 89 ℉ -- Wind Speed 4.2 mi/h -- Wind Direction SE
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The valley is about 35 miles long, with minor elevation changes. There are mountains all around. I sometimes ride in the foothills, but not the mountains, so far. Mostly on 36-spoke wheels, either old, or brand new. All have tubes, and sealant, here in goathead-land. I do ride my tubulars on occasion. They have sealant, too!
#19
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It's all rollers here, with short, steep hillettes. And often very gusty.
I'd prefer classic 1980s-style low profile hard anodized rims, but those tend to need truing often and crack at the spoke junctures after several years. High profile aero rims catch air, which can be distracting on rural highways while negotiating pavement with passing vehicles, rough pavement and gusting wind.
So I prefer moderate profile rims for strength and low maintenance. I'm not a strong enough rider to notice any differences between rim designs, aluminum vs carbon fiber, or wheel weight, so I prefer durable rims that don't need constant attention, and supple tires for comfort. Nowadays, that seems to be mostly older Mavic rims I've acquired used from various sources. They've held up longer than the low profile, lightweight Araya CTL-370 and Wolber Super Champion Alpines (although I still prefer the looks of those classic low profile rims).
I'd prefer classic 1980s-style low profile hard anodized rims, but those tend to need truing often and crack at the spoke junctures after several years. High profile aero rims catch air, which can be distracting on rural highways while negotiating pavement with passing vehicles, rough pavement and gusting wind.
So I prefer moderate profile rims for strength and low maintenance. I'm not a strong enough rider to notice any differences between rim designs, aluminum vs carbon fiber, or wheel weight, so I prefer durable rims that don't need constant attention, and supple tires for comfort. Nowadays, that seems to be mostly older Mavic rims I've acquired used from various sources. They've held up longer than the low profile, lightweight Araya CTL-370 and Wolber Super Champion Alpines (although I still prefer the looks of those classic low profile rims).
#20
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I thrive on hills -- always have. At 145lbs and 5'8" I am neither big nor particularly strong, but I emphatically favor traditional wheel designs, with at least 32 spokes in a 3-cross pattern, for reliability and tuneability.
I am far more interested in how fast I can ascend than in how fast I can descend, so I use the brakes a lot and don't bother with any gearing above the mid-90s of gear inches (50/14, 46/13, etc.).
I am far more interested in how fast I can ascend than in how fast I can descend, so I use the brakes a lot and don't bother with any gearing above the mid-90s of gear inches (50/14, 46/13, etc.).
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
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#21
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In Tasmania, we have hilly or Tasmanian flat.
Tasmanian flat is something like this, or pretty close to it.
On a 50 km ride, there will be 500 metres of climbing.
On a 100 km ride, there will be 1000 metres of climbing.
On a 200 km ride, there will be 2000 metres of climbing.
Tasmanian flat is something like this, or pretty close to it.
On a 50 km ride, there will be 500 metres of climbing.
On a 100 km ride, there will be 1000 metres of climbing.
On a 200 km ride, there will be 2000 metres of climbing.
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