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My Di2 is Broken!

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My Di2 is Broken!

Old 05-12-21, 08:12 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by babyboomer View Post
Just an FYI folks.

The mechanic at the local bike shop managed to make a little bit more progress than I had. He managed to get one of the LEDs on Junction A to come on! I was hoping that things would just keep getting better, but that's as far as he got. I'll just have to wait until Friday.
Glad you're on the way to a working bike Thanks for keeping us posted on the resolution.
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Old 05-13-21, 05:47 AM
  #77  
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In a funny way, this all seems comparable to the 'mysterious clicking noise' types of threads. Everything under the sun gets recommended to try and fix (or get rid of the noise), and I'm sure eventually something will be done and it's miraculously working again.
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Old 05-13-21, 09:23 PM
  #78  
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I'm running windows 10 with the latest version of e tube, and when I plug in the BCR2, from memory, windows doesn't make a noise, and no light comes on the BCR2, but it otherwise works...
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Old 05-14-21, 07:06 PM
  #79  
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Ok it's Friday night at least here in the Easter Time Zone I need to know did it get fixed?
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Old 05-14-21, 11:55 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene View Post
In a funny way, this all seems comparable to the 'mysterious clicking noise' types of threads. Everything under the sun gets recommended to try and fix (or get rid of the noise), and I'm sure eventually something will be done and it's miraculously working again.
There is one specific action that will fix the problem, perhaps something else will work, but there is one specific thing that will resolve the OPs issue. Unfortunately it is neither convenient (take bike to shop with diagnostic tool) or cheap (purchase said diagnostic tool).
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Old 05-19-21, 08:36 PM
  #81  
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By the time I left the mechanic's last Tuesday, I was confident that I'd left my bike in good hands. He told me that he'd have it ready in time for a weekend ride. "I'll call you with any news", he said. I got the distinct impression that he didn't want me nagging him. So, I headed home resolute in my determination not to bother him. After all, Friday was only a few days away. Until then, the best anyone else had offered was four weeks! I must confess that I'd been hoping for a miracle, like the five-minute solution alluded to by one of the contributors to this thread. Alas, it was not to be. Well, not exactly.

That night I sent an email message to the mechanic, which included pertinent information I had forgotten to mention about the bike. Apparently, my resolve to leave him alone hadn't lasted very long. Specifically, I wanted him to know that the bike's shifters had been remapped so that it shifts more like a SRAM system. I wanted him to be forewarned. I had seen this setup confuse many a mechanic. When he responded the next day, he told me that my message had only confused him. In an effort to clarify, I sent another email. Then another. When I didn't get a response to either of the last two messages, I figured I was pressing my luck and had better leave well enough alone.

Later that day I received a message from the mechanic (George) asking me to swing by the shop. Hmm. My mind raced. It could be any number of things, but it certainly couldn't get any worse. The best case scenario would be that he had fixed the bike and wanted to surprise me. Whatever it was, he was going to have to squeeze it in between the end of my shift at work and the beginning of a group ride he was leading later that evening.

When I got there, George was waiting on another customer. He greeted me cordially, but was otherwise noncommittal. I would have to wait another ten anxious minutes.

Once the customer ahead of me had left, George mounted my bike in the repair stand, and asked for my assistance in testing the gears. That was a good sign. It meant that he had restored enough functionality to warrant a test. So, as he turned the crank I shifted the gears. Before each shift, I announced the lever I was using and how I expected the chain to respond. The chain traversed the entire cassette without hesitation. This was a revelation, because when I left the shop the previous day, the rear derailleur wasn't shifting at all.

The entire exercise took about a minute. When we were done, I looked at George expectantly. When he paused, I interjected cautiously, "This is progress." Slightly perturbed, George responded, "It's more than progress, it's fixed!" I felt bad. In an effort to make amends, I sputtered incoherently, but the damage was done. I had ruined his big reveal.

When I asked him what he had done to fix it, he wasn't sure. I'm guessing that it was probably working before I left the previous day. By that time George had managed to get an LED on Junction-A to come on, which was more than I had been able to accomplish in two weeks of trying. Once Junction-A was showing life, I'm guessing that he was able to perform a recovery of the rear derailleur.

You might recall that I was having trouble getting Windows 10 on my laptop to recognize the SM-BCR2 linkage device. When I tried connecting it to the computer, Windows would not acknowledge it. Gone was the familiar jingle that Windows plays when you plug something into a USB port. It wasn't showing up in Device Manager either. So, I purchased a new SM-BCR2. The new one works flawlessly! The reassuring "jingle" from Windows has returned, and the device shows up in Device Manager:




I couldn't wait to connect my bike and fire up the E-Tube Project application!

With the bike connected and the E-Tube software running, I managed to get the following display:



The next step seemed obvious. I had to update the firmware on Junction-A (SM-EW90-A) and the wireless unit (EW-WU111). So, I selected those components and clicked UPDATE. In those few seconds I managed to destroy all of the work that George had done. The Di2 system was rendered useless! I sifted through a number of diagnostic screens and made several desperate attempts to recover. I even tried updating the components individually, but in the end the system was dead. Neither derailleur worked! At this point, it was beyond the capability of the SM-BCR2, and I didn't have an SM-PCE1 or SM-PCE02. Ultimately, I believe the mistake that I made was forgetting to disconnect the battery prior to installing the updates.

The next call to George was a difficult one, but he was good-natured about it. Unfortunately, it would be another two weeks before he could look at the bike. He is a devoted Apple guy, and can't run the E-Tube Project software. Consequently, he relies on a roving Shimano tech for addressing issues like these. So, I contacted an LBS with which I've had a relationship for at least thirty years. I've known their service manager, Matt, for a couple of decades. The employee who took my call was explaining to me that I wouldn't be able to get an appointment for another three weeks. Fortunately, Matt was eavesdropping and found out who she was talking to. He told her that I could bring the bike by any time!

I took the bike in on Saturday, at which time Matt told me he could get it back to me by Wednesday. I negotiated that down to a delivery by Tuesday, but afterwards felt guilty. I had forgotten that they're not open on Sundays and Mondays. I called Matt back and told him that Wednesday would be fine, but he assured me that he could make the Tuesday deadline.

True to his word, Matt called me on Tuesday afternoon to let me know that my bike was ready. He had succeeded in restoring the system and installing the remaining updates, but in the process had to replace the Junction A (SM-EW90-A) component.


All firmware is up-to-date

Although he didn't mention it, I noticed that he had replaced a cable that was a little worn. His services cost me only $60! Although my original objective was to enable synchronized shifting, I elected to forgo that this time around. I'll set that up at a later date, but not before acquiring an SM-PCE02. Supposedly, I should be able to do it with my SM-BCR2, but this experience has made me wary.

It has been fifteen days since I've been on my bike. I don't have a spare bike, so I've had to go without. I had just started the second week of a training plan. I guess I'll start over. Next time I'll do my homework before starting another Di2 project.

I had planned on providing a laundry list of the mistakes I made, but this post is already too long and I am tired. However, if you have specific questions about my ordeal, I'll do my best to answer them.
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Old 05-19-21, 09:18 PM
  #82  
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Awesome final summary to a puzzling tale !

Thank you for the final follow up

Barry

oh, and remind me not to allow you anywhere near my Di2

Last edited by Barry2; 05-20-21 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 05-20-21, 01:39 AM
  #83  
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Ouch Babyboomer! Good to hear the bike is working and that George & Matt were happy to fix it ;-)

Here are some random things I'd like to say, in no particular order:

You don't have to disconnect the battery when updating firmware - I certainly never do and there is no Shimano documentation that says you have to (except when using the ancient SM-BMR1 battery mount).

It isn't common for a Di2 bike to fail after an update like yours did, you seem to be having a lot of bad luck with this bike (not your fault).

When a Di2 bike refuses to shift, these are some possible causes:
  • The bike is still connected to a Windows PC (use the disconnect button)
  • The bike is still connected to the mobile app (use the disconnect button)
  • A firmware update has failed and the bike is still connected
  • It has destroyed itself in some other way
As long as the bike is connected to either a PC (with e-tube running) or the mobile app, it won't respond to shift commands. The mobile app is especially bad because people tend to just close the app or switch to the home screen or a different app, without using the disconnect button. The bike will then happily sit in connection mode forever, until you either disconnect/reconnect the battery or open the app again and use the disconnect button.
Not the user's fault, Shimano's software / firmware should really handle this better.

You should be able to set up synchro shifting without the PCE1 / PCE02. If not using E-Tube Project 4.0.4, then using E-Tube Project 3.4.5 (the newer version 4 doesn't work flawlessly with the BCR2 unfortunately). Both are available for download on the E-Tube Project site.

Even without setting it up, you can probably switch shift mode and use synchro shifting already. It just won't be set up to your preferences, but it should work.
To change shift mode, double press the junction box button and it will change shift mode. The LEDs should flash to indicate what shift mode you're in.
  • Solid red/green lights: manual shift mode
  • Twice blinking red/green lights: shift mode 1 (default: semi-synchronized shift)
  • Three-times blinking red/green lights: shift mode 2 (default: synchronized shift)

Last edited by TerryDi2C; 05-20-21 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 05-20-21, 09:24 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Barry2 View Post
oh, and remind me not to allow you anywhere near my Di2
That hurts my feelings, Barry. Besides, now I have more experience. I'm guessing I could do some real damage.
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Old 05-20-21, 09:35 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by babyboomer View Post
That hurts my feelings, Barry. Besides, now I have more experience. I'm guessing I could do some real damage.
I'm more than capable of killing it myself!
There is no satisfaction in allowing you to do it for me.

All the best

Barry
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Old 05-20-21, 09:42 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by TerryDi2C View Post
Ouch Babyboomer! Good to hear the bike is working and that George & Matt were happy to fix it ;-)
Thanks, Terry! Believe it or not, the saga continues. After picking up my bike from Matt, I got it home only to discover that Junction-A is not secured to the mount and I can't seem to figure out how to get it to snap into place. I've found the documentation, and believe I've identified the "rails", but it won't lock in place. If I can't figure it out, I'll have to take it back to Matt or George. For something minor like this, I'm leaning towards George because he's closer (2.5 miles versus 15 miles).
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Old 05-20-21, 09:45 AM
  #87  
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IIRC it will only lock in from one side.
Try Rotating the rails 180 degrees.

OR try the dead Box if it was returned to you

(If your brave enough to DIY again)

Barry
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Old 05-20-21, 09:47 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Barry2 View Post
IIRC it will only lock in from one side.
Try Rotating the rails 180 degrees.

OR try the dead Box if it was returned to you

(If your brave enough to DIY again)

Barry
yeah.. and don't force it in if it doesn't want to .. I've actually snapped one of mine in half
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Old 05-20-21, 10:23 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by TerryDi2C View Post
yeah.. and don't force it in if it doesn't want to .. I've actually snapped one of mine in half
Also, I'm trying to keep to a minimum the number of things I try that require manual dexterity. I have a movement disorder which makes it difficult to do things requiring fine motor control. You can imagine what it's like for me when I try connecting the charger to that tiny little port on the side of Junction-A. Typically, that's a ten minute task. I also have peripheral neuropathy, so the sensory feedback I get from my fingers isn't what it used to be. Believe it or not, that makes it difficult for me to know whether I'm applying enough pressure to the button on the bottom of the junction. For these reasons, I often have to resort to my local mechanic for things that would otherwise be trivial.
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Old 05-20-21, 07:41 PM
  #90  
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I believe that this saga is finally over!

I saw George today, who with considerable effort managed to get Junction-A secured beneath the stem. Even from several feet away I heard the reassuring click. It took more effort than I was comfortable applying. The last time I did something like that I actually pulled off the band. If I had broken it again, I would have wound up right back at the bike shop. To cover any eventuality, I figured it was better to start at the bike shop.

I'm probably jinxing myself by saying so, but I can't imagine what else could go wrong. I'll probably throw the bike on the trainer tonight so that at least I can run through the gears. I'd still like to configure the wireless unit so that I can connect to the system using my mobile phone, but there's no urgency there. Eventually I'll take a look at the synchronized shifting modes, which I can enable from Junction-A.
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Old 05-22-21, 11:29 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by blakcloud View Post
Ok it's Friday night at least here in the Easter Time Zone I need to know did it get fixed?
Yes, blakcloud. Several days and two mechanics later, everything was fine and dandy.
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Old 05-24-21, 11:28 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by popeye View Post
Now try the crashed derailer procedure. It is very easy with the wheel off to just bump the derailer into fail safe.
I do believe that this is what the mechanic did to restore functionality to the rear derailleur.
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Old 06-03-21, 11:29 AM
  #93  
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You lag, you lose.

After this experience, I thought it would be beneficial to obtain Shimano's SM-PCE02 linkage device. Unfortunately, it's not available anywhere! I found one at a company in Europe (Swinnerton Cycles), but I hesitated. Thinking that I might get it faster, I was hoping to find a source in the USA. I've seen them on eBay, but most of those are coming from Japan. Another site indicated that they weren't expecting more inventory until September! While there's no great urgency, I'd feel much better knowing I have one on hand in the event I run into difficulty again.

Last edited by babyboomer; 06-03-21 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 06-03-21, 11:35 AM
  #94  
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Yeah, and it's probably metric voltage. (Just kidding.)
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Old 06-09-21, 12:17 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by babyboomer View Post
You lag, you lose.

After this experience, I thought it would be beneficial to obtain Shimano's SM-PCE02 linkage device. Unfortunately, it's not available anywhere! I found one at a company in Europe (Swinnerton Cycles), but I hesitated. Thinking that I might get it faster, I was hoping to find a source in the USA. I've seen them on eBay, but most of those are coming from Japan. Another site indicated that they weren't expecting more inventory until September! While there's no great urgency, I'd feel much better knowing I have one on hand in the event I run into difficulty again.
I think I've managed to snag one of these from the aforementioned Swinnerton Cycles. If all goes well, it should arrive in about a week.
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Old 06-14-21, 03:11 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by TerryDi2C View Post
Ouch Babyboomer! Good to hear the bike is working and that George & Matt were happy to fix it ;-)

Here are some random things I'd like to say, in no particular order:

You don't have to disconnect the battery when updating firmware - I certainly never do and there is no Shimano documentation that says you have to (except when using the ancient SM-BMR1 battery mount).

It isn't common for a Di2 bike to fail after an update like yours did, you seem to be having a lot of bad luck with this bike (not your fault).

When a Di2 bike refuses to shift, these are some possible causes:
  • The bike is still connected to a Windows PC (use the disconnect button)
  • The bike is still connected to the mobile app (use the disconnect button)
  • A firmware update has failed and the bike is still connected
  • It has destroyed itself in some other way
As long as the bike is connected to either a PC (with e-tube running) or the mobile app, it won't respond to shift commands. The mobile app is especially bad because people tend to just close the app or switch to the home screen or a different app, without using the disconnect button. The bike will then happily sit in connection mode forever, until you either disconnect/reconnect the battery or open the app again and use the disconnect button.
Not the user's fault, Shimano's software / firmware should really handle this better.

You should be able to set up synchro shifting without the PCE1 / PCE02. If not using E-Tube Project 4.0.4, then using E-Tube Project 3.4.5 (the newer version 4 doesn't work flawlessly with the BCR2 unfortunately). Both are available for download on the E-Tube Project site.

Even without setting it up, you can probably switch shift mode and use synchro shifting already. It just won't be set up to your preferences, but it should work.
To change shift mode, double press the junction box button and it will change shift mode. The LEDs should flash to indicate what shift mode you're in.
  • Solid red/green lights: manual shift mode
  • Twice blinking red/green lights: shift mode 1 (default: semi-synchronized shift)
  • Three-times blinking red/green lights: shift mode 2 (default: synchronized shift)
Thank you! This information will be quite helpful for future exploits. An SM-PCE02 is on the way, so I should have everything I need!
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Old 06-16-21, 09:36 PM
  #97  
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Wow, that was fast! I ordered the SM-PCE02 on the 9th, and received it on the 16th. It took only a week to get to me from England! And it wasn't even shipped right away. Kudos to Swinnerton Cycles for having the foresight to keep this item in stock, and DHL for their lightning-fast delivery.

That's all folks! I think that all of the issues raised during this thread have been addressed.

Thanks again!
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