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Show us your Raleigh Super Course!

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Show us your Raleigh Super Course!

Old 05-12-21, 03:46 PM
  #2026  
Unca_Sam
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Got around to the tires

I took the time to mount the tires and tubes I bought specifically for this build! A recent purchase also came with red used straps that work perfectly with the other red accents. Went for a spin to clear the cobwebs and get the blood flowing, and it is comfy!


Look at how the handlebar tape glows!
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Old 06-08-21, 08:16 PM
  #2027  
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White Fenders

This is not the first time this bike has appeared here but I have had the good fortune to now possess a pair of vintage, white, Bluemels "Lightweight" mudguards. These came with the Raleigh Pro Mk I that some of you are familiar with and since I refurbed that bike to "catalog-page" appearance I didn't fit the fenders to it. Seeing the fenders hanging in the garage and knowing that there is a generous amount of white on the panels of the Super Course Mk II, I thought I would install them there and see how they looked. What does the Super Course fan-world think?
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Old 06-09-21, 06:39 PM
  #2028  
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Originally Posted by daka View Post
What does the Super Course fan-world think?
It's breath-taking!
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Old 06-20-21, 06:21 PM
  #2029  
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Raleigh Super Course, 1973?

Serial # 0021827

This came to me in a collection of things. I ride a 25'' so it's not going to stay. I hope.
The only Raleighs I have worked on were Japan made.

Is this a "good Raleigh"? The kind gugie can't say no to?

Thanks

* * *
50cm (ctc) seat tube.
53cm (ctc) top tube.

F&R derailleurs have been replaced.

GB stem.
Weinmann brake levers with release, Carlton hoods.
Simplex DT shifters.
Weinmann 610 front, 750 rear centerpull brakes.

Weinmann Aluminium 36h rims, 27x1/14 , knurled brake track.
Normandy hubs, M. M. Atom skewers. Huret spoke protector.
TDC freewheel. 14-17-20-24-28.

Seat pin measures 26.2.

Stronglight crank, 52-42. 6 stamped on backside of arms.
Raleigh 501 pedals, Christophe D cages marked AFA Brevets the bottom. Lapize straps.

Chain checks as new.
Bar tape & plugs look original.
* * *








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Old 06-20-21, 07:01 PM
  #2030  
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Looks like a '73 to me too. It doesn't have the Capella lugs that are often seen in 1973 but that may have been dictated by the small frame size. The separation between the seat lug and tube does, however, scream 1973 right out loud. The finish looks great for a 48 year old bike.
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Old 06-20-21, 07:17 PM
  #2031  
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Originally Posted by daka View Post
Looks like a '73 to me too. It doesn't have the Capella lugs that are often seen in 1973 but that may have been dictated by the small frame size.
I agree. Only year they made a SC frame this small, and yes it needed Bocama lugs to fit the head tube (I have one in the shop).
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Old 06-22-21, 01:55 AM
  #2032  
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Nice bikes in here!
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Old 06-23-21, 01:36 PM
  #2033  
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Double dingle speed Raleigh SuperCourse

Finally got my wheels built, some Suntour sprint hubs, SS spokes, Alex rims with panaracer tour tires. A pair of bastard brake calipers, Dia-comp bodies, springs and pivots with Weinmann long reach arms. Raleigh crankarms, Lyotard pedals, some black 45t chainring with some 42t silver ring. A black Pletsher rack, Brooks C19 Cambium saddle, SR seat post, Nitto Technomic II stem, ??? Bars, ??? brake levers. Surly 17-21 dingle cog and Mabda ind. Dingle freewheel.



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Old 06-24-21, 03:32 PM
  #2034  
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@eom if it doesn't have the Capella lugs, it could be a 1974, and yes, it's a good one, especially now that the derailleurs are upgraded.
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Old 06-24-21, 06:24 PM
  #2035  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
@eom if it doesn't have the Capella lugs, it could be a 1974
1974 was Mk II.
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Old 06-24-21, 07:13 PM
  #2036  
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Plus a cottered crank, if original, is definitely earlier than ‘74.
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Old 06-24-21, 11:24 PM
  #2037  
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Originally Posted by eom View Post
This came to me in a collection of things. I ride a 25'' so it's not going to stay.
In the event that you sell shoot me a PM, I may be interested.
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Old 06-25-21, 02:37 PM
  #2038  
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So a follow up question. Is this seat post workmanship a problem for whoever winds up with this bike?


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Old 06-25-21, 03:57 PM
  #2039  
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
1974 was Mk II.
Did Raleigh ever produce and sell SC and SC Mk IIs during the same year(s)?
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Old 06-25-21, 11:07 PM
  #2040  
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They were never in the same catalog, but I wouldn't be surprised if some dealers ended up with them side by side.
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Old 06-25-21, 11:18 PM
  #2041  
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Originally Posted by eom View Post
So a follow up question. Is this seat post workmanship a problem for whoever winds up with this bike?


One of the framebuilders who post here will be able to give you a better answer, but if it were my bike I would drip a little epoxy in that gap to help prevent water from getting in there and causing corrosion. I suspect that there is enough area brazed together to ensure that the seat lug doesn't detach from the tube.

I would also see if I could find the washer that belongs under the nut on the seat post clamp so that the nut doesn't continue to grind up the lug.
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Old 06-26-21, 04:16 AM
  #2042  
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Originally Posted by daka View Post
One of the framebuilders who post here will be able to give you a better answer, but if it were my bike I would drip a little epoxy in that gap to help prevent water from getting in there and causing corrosion. I suspect that there is enough area brazed together to ensure that the seat lug doesn't detach from the tube.

I would also see if I could find the washer that belongs under the nut on the seat post clamp so that the nut doesn't continue to grind up the lug.
I would not put anything in the gap. I'd bet that when the proper size seatpost is in and tight the gap disappears. A lump of epoxy could well mean you can't get the correct post in - or if you do and tighten it properly either the epoxy crushes or it distorts the outer part.

And it's not likely a structural issue - not with the reinforcement of the seatpost, and besides, there's a bloddy great slot through the whole lug right next to it.
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Old 06-26-21, 10:46 AM
  #2043  
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Well, maybe epoxy isn't the best idea but I would still put something (oil, Boeshield, Framesaver, etc) in that gap to prevent corrosion. Rust has a greater volume than the metal that made it and will swell that gap making it difficult or impossible to remove the seat post in the future.
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