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Official Trek FX Thread

Old 07-17-21, 07:04 PM
  #1926  
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Originally Posted by Moisture
Tire clearance and braking aside, is this frame well suited to 650 x 50 wheel/tires?
A disc brake frame would, sure. It'd be much more difficult (though not impossible) to convert a rim brake frame to a different wheel size. But if you have discs, then different wheel sizes are pretty easily swapped.
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Old 07-17-21, 08:40 PM
  #1927  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
A disc brake frame would, sure. It'd be much more difficult (though not impossible) to convert a rim brake frame to a different wheel size. But if you have discs, then different wheel sizes are pretty easily swapped.
True, but assuming that braking and tire clearance is taken care of, would the bike work well with thicker tires?
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Old 07-18-21, 06:42 PM
  #1928  
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Originally Posted by Not2worried
Thinking about changing out my stock pedals on my FX 2. How much of a difference are "upgraded" pedals?
Was looking at Race Face Chester pedals.
Thanks
I now have Chesters on all my bikes, except my FX3 disc. On those the shop had a knockoff at a third of the price that are high-vis yellow that I wanted to try. They are great also. Chesters are the best pedals I've ever had, when I don't want clipins. Which is almost always. I have Speedplay Frogs for when I want to use clipins with Mountain Bike shoes that I can walk anywhere in. But I seldom want clip pedals. No advantage to me. I have no interest in racing or pushing myself for "fast." Bicycles are not fast. Not after having a 145 mph Honda bike. That went fast.
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Old 07-19-21, 06:48 AM
  #1929  
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Originally Posted by Moisture
True, but assuming that braking and tire clearance is taken care of, would the bike work well with thicker tires?
Sure! The bike frame itself doesn't really care how wide the tires are (other than clearance, obviously). Tire diameter changes will impact the frame's geometry somewhat, but those differences would be pretty minor. I've done swaps like this before -- like putting 47-584 tires on my Giant Roam which came with 38-622 tires...and it rode great. In fact, I liked it better in that configuration. But I do a lot of mixed surface riding where I prefer the larger air volume in the tires vs. a high pressure narrow tire on larger wheels. It'll depend on what you want -- but the FX will ride fine just the same.
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Old 07-19-21, 08:58 AM
  #1930  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
Sure! The bike frame itself doesn't really care how wide the tires are (other than clearance, obviously). Tire diameter changes will impact the frame's geometry somewhat, but those differences would be pretty minor. I've done swaps like this before -- like putting 47-584 tires on my Giant Roam which came with 38-622 tires...and it rode great. In fact, I liked it better in that configuration. But I do a lot of mixed surface riding where I prefer the larger air volume in the tires vs. a high pressure narrow tire on larger wheels. It'll depend on what you want -- but the FX will ride fine just the same.
In my experience, you can deviate somewhat from stock tire diameters as long as there is no more than a 10mm difference front vs. Rear. Seems like trail is more negatively impacted when opting for a smaller diameter tire rather than vice versa.

I would definetely prefer thicker tires for my riding, but don't want to go much larger than the current tire diameter, especially since I would have to give up my rear fender.
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Old 07-19-21, 09:28 AM
  #1931  
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Originally Posted by Moisture
Seems like trail is more negatively impacted when opting for a smaller diameter tire rather than vice versa.
Trail will decrease with a smaller tire diameter and increase with a larger tire diameter (all else being equal). Depending on what you want in a bike, you may prefer less trail or more trail. I generally prefer less trail, but that's a very personal preference (and trail is certainly not the only metric that defines how a bike rides).

Originally Posted by Moisture
I would definetely prefer thicker tires for my riding, but don't want to go much larger than the current tire diameter, especially since I would have to give up my rear fender.
If you're moving down to 584mm wheels (27.5"), you shouldn't have a problem with overall tire diameter. If you have 35-622 tires now, those are nominally 692mm in diameter. If you're looking for a street-oriented tire in 584mm wheel size, you'll generally find them in the 47-50mm width, which would nominally be between 678mm and 684mm in diameter. You may find that your current fenders aren't quite wide enough for tires that wide.
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Old 07-20-21, 08:16 PM
  #1932  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
Trail will decrease with a smaller tire diameter and increase with a larger tire diameter (all else being equal). Depending on what you want in a bike, you may prefer less trail or more trail. I generally prefer less trail, but that's a very personal preference (and trail is certainly not the only metric that defines how a bike rides).



If you're moving down to 584mm wheels (27.5"), you shouldn't have a problem with overall tire diameter. If you have 35-622 tires now, those are nominally 692mm in diameter. If you're looking for a street-oriented tire in 584mm wheel size, you'll generally find them in the 47-50mm width, which would nominally be between 678mm and 684mm in diameter. You may find that your current fenders aren't quite wide enough for tires that wide.
By low trail, how low are we talking about?

I think that the way the frame is assembled and the way the tubing is butted can easily make the trail feel different. At least this certainly is what I observed with my Trek over my old Nishiki road bike. Both seem about equally stable in a straight line or at speed, but the trek walks all over the old road bike in terms of agility. I think that the Nishiki may have had slightly less trail. My trek is @ 62mm which isn't exactly low, at least not for a bike designed primarily for use on pavement.

My current fork has an offset of 45mm. I am thinking of updating to a fork with slightly more offset to lower the trail a little.

If I understand correctly, is head tube angle mainly responsible for stability at speed, while fork offset determines agility at lower speeds? How would a bike with a steep head tube and low fork rake behave?
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Old 07-21-21, 06:09 AM
  #1933  
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Terms "low" and "high" are subjective enough to where comparisons are hard to make. I've found that high trail and/or high wheel flop increases 'self steer', the tendency for a bike to want to keep steering into the turn without user input. Most "road bikes" are in the 55-65mm range for trail (though anyone could argue a different range depending on how you define the "road bike" segment). Gravel bikes and bikes designed for looser surfaces often have slightly more trail, maybe 70-80mm (dual sport hybrids often fall into this range). Mountain bikes often have trail even higher than this. I once had a Giant ARX that had about 100mm of trail. It drove so strangely that I returned it. I just didn't like how it rode. My lowest trail bike is a 1970 Peugeot mixte. It has a pretty steep head tube angle (something like 73 degrees) and a fork with a very high offset (something like 55-60mm). So the trail is somewhere in the 40s. That's one of my more fun bikes to ride. Not from a speed perspective, but from a more fundamental "this bike is enjoyable to drive" perspective. My Trek MultiTrack 750 has something like 65mm of trail and it's also very enjoyable to ride.
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Old 07-21-21, 08:18 AM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
Terms "low" and "high" are subjective enough to where comparisons are hard to make. I've found that high trail and/or high wheel flop increases 'self steer', the tendency for a bike to want to keep steering into the turn without user input. Most "road bikes" are in the 55-65mm range for trail (though anyone could argue a different range depending on how you define the "road bike" segment). Gravel bikes and bikes designed for looser surfaces often have slightly more trail, maybe 70-80mm (dual sport hybrids often fall into this range). Mountain bikes often have trail even higher than this. I once had a Giant ARX that had about 100mm of trail. It drove so strangely that I returned it. I just didn't like how it rode. My lowest trail bike is a 1970 Peugeot mixte. It has a pretty steep head tube angle (something like 73 degrees) and a fork with a very high offset (something like 55-60mm). So the trail is somewhere in the 40s. That's one of my more fun bikes to ride. Not from a speed perspective, but from a more fundamental "this bike is enjoyable to drive" perspective. My Trek MultiTrack 750 has something like 65mm of trail and it's also very enjoyable to ride.
Can absolutely agree with you on trail being very subjective.... not to contradict what i just said, as this helps to put handling metrics into perspective... but wouldn't a trail of around 65mm seem normal for a gravel bike as well? I see plenty of gravel bikes with a very similar angles to the trek fx - 72.5° head angle and roughly 45mm of fork offset.

Do you think that changing out to a chromoly or carbon fork with about 50mm of offset would be a worthwhile decision? My current fork is aluminum, nothing wrong with it.. just thinking I might prefer something better with road buzz. I've heard stories of carbon forks cracking though.
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Old 07-21-21, 11:05 AM
  #1935  
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Originally Posted by Moisture
Can absolutely agree with you on trail being very subjective.... not to contradict what i just said, as this helps to put handling metrics into perspective... but wouldn't a trail of around 65mm seem normal for a gravel bike as well? I see plenty of gravel bikes with a very similar angles to the trek fx - 72.5° head angle and roughly 45mm of fork offset.
I think gravel bikes generally have a slacker head tube angle than traditional road bikes and a bit more trail.


I think this is a pretty good video on the topic.

Originally Posted by Moisture
Do you think that changing out to a chromoly or carbon fork with about 50mm of offset would be a worthwhile decision? My current fork is aluminum, nothing wrong with it.. just thinking I might prefer something better with road buzz. I've heard stories of carbon forks cracking though.
That's tough to say. I'd probably like it myself. I usually like steel stuff, and recently swapped a cheap Suntour 80mm suspension fork on my entry level hardtail for a Surly chromoly fork (ECR 27.5+ model). The axle-to-crown measurement was shorter, but it has the same offset...so it increased the head tube angle and decreased the trail. I think the bike rides better this way...no-handed riding is much easier and the bike feels more natural in general. But again, I'm not into the slack geometry popular today and prefer more "traditional" bike geometry. So I'd probably like your proposed change.
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Old 07-21-21, 06:57 PM
  #1936  
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What are the widest tires you can put on an FX2?
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Old 07-22-21, 08:55 AM
  #1937  
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how different is the riding experience in between the trek fx and fx sport versions?
I notice the fx sport is longer reach, but it also has a higher stack.
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Old 07-24-21, 09:53 AM
  #1938  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
I think gravel bikes generally have a slacker head tube angle than traditional road bikes and a bit more trail.

Low vs. High Trail Bikes? What is Bicycle Trail? - YouTube

I think this is a pretty good video on the topic.



That's tough to say. I'd probably like it myself. I usually like steel stuff, and recently swapped a cheap Suntour 80mm suspension fork on my entry level hardtail for a Surly chromoly fork (ECR 27.5+ model). The axle-to-crown measurement was shorter, but it has the same offset...so it increased the head tube angle and decreased the trail. I think the bike rides better this way...no-handed riding is much easier and the bike feels more natural in general. But again, I'm not into the slack geometry popular today and prefer more "traditional" bike geometry. So I'd probably like your proposed change.
I've had good experience changing from a manitou (very good fork, just much too long ATC for the frame in question) on a 90's aluminum GT Mtb. The bike was much faster in every single possible regard and cornered tenaciously.

can you get away with a shorter ATC fork if the seat/head tube angles are already very slack to begin with? I know you don't want to go much shorter, even after accounting for suspension sag.

Curious how different combinations of fork offset and head tube angle can amount to different handling attributes.

I've just placed an order for a Trek Verve+ 2 E bike to take some stress off my knees and lower back during commuting duty. While the angles are very relaxed, like a trail of 9 or 9.5, it had the rack and fenders I needed so overall I think I've made a fine choice.

I was thinking of selling my FX, but I've become very attached to the bike and thinking to keep it for "spirited road" duty. Do you think it's trail figure is sufficient for quick fast paced thrashing as a secondary bike?

Next, I'll eventually get some sort of mountain bike (I want a rigid fork with smaller diameter 27.5" wheels) and that should amount to a nice versatile lineup.
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Old 07-24-21, 11:23 AM
  #1939  
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Originally Posted by Moisture
can you get away with a shorter ATC fork if the seat/head tube angles are already very slack to begin with? I know you don't want to go much shorter, even after accounting for suspension sag.
There are a few good geometry calculators out there on the internet. This one helps you calculate trail, and this one calculates other angles, like head tube and seat tube. Be mindful that a shorter A2C fork also influences effective top tube, seat tube angle, bottom bracket height, etc. And then on top of all that, sometimes all the math in the world doesn't tell you how the bike will really ride.
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Old 07-25-21, 07:43 PM
  #1940  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
There are a few good geometry calculators out there on the internet. This one helps you calculate trail, and this one calculates other angles, like head tube and seat tube. Be mindful that a shorter A2C fork also influences effective top tube, seat tube angle, bottom bracket height, etc. And then on top of all that, sometimes all the math in the world doesn't tell you how the bike will really ride.
Playing around with that calculator, didn't realize how much the effective top tube would change with a shorter fork.

If we are talking about a hybrid bike with slack angles and a high bottom bracket, would a smaller diameter wheelset offer a positive change in trail?
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Old 07-26-21, 06:11 AM
  #1941  
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Originally Posted by Moisture
If we are talking about a hybrid bike with slack angles and a high bottom bracket, would a smaller diameter wheelset offer a positive change in trail?
Smaller diameter tires (with no other changes) will result in a smaller trail number. Whether that's a positive or a negative change is up to you and your riding preferences.
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Old 08-20-21, 09:45 PM
  #1942  
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Hi all, first post here.
I just picked up a 2011 7.5 FX disk.
New Schwalbe tires, new brake pads. Came with bar ends, mirror and a Bontrager rack.
Took it for a 4 km spin and wow am I impressed. Shifts are crisp, brakes are rock solid. Going to need new pedals though, going to commute so debating flats or SPDs.
No pic as I haven't hit my ten post requirement...
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Old 08-21-21, 06:16 AM
  #1943  
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I am thinking what to do with mine.

I tried to sell it but Got very little overall attention.

anyone know how wide of a tire i can fit on this bike?

I am thinking of converting this bike to flat bar and using a short stem.
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Old 09-09-21, 07:31 AM
  #1944  
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Looking to possibly purchase a Trek Sport 5 today, but I have some questions about the all carbon frame and how well it can handle weight. I am currently ~300 lbs, and while I am back on track with my eating and workout habits and anticipate shedding poundage, I was wondering if I could hear some opinions about the durability of an all carbon frame and its ability to hold up against my current weight. I've ridden a 2011 Specialized Allez with an aluminum frame and carbon forks for years now with no issues even while weighing in as much as 320 lbs. I'm in love with the esthetics of the new FX bikes and have been really feeling the itch to pull the trigger on the XL model at my local shop, but I would love to hear some anecdotal opinions on this before I make the purchase.

P.S. I'm donating my old bikes to a local not for profit and planning on buying the bike today, unless someone here can convince me that riding an all carbon frame at my weight will surely send me to the ICU

P.S.S. I'd also be curious to know opinions on the stock rims/spokes that come with this model. I know often times companies will skimp on the stock rims/spokes because many serious riders will customize their set up, and I eventually will too as I have had rear wheels built for all of my bikes. But I'm hoping to get at least a few months of riding in on the stock wheels before I have my local shop build me a set.

Last edited by therunt; 09-09-21 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 09-09-21, 07:52 AM
  #1945  
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Originally Posted by therunt
Looking to possibly purchase a Trek Sport 5 today, but I have some questions about the all carbon frame and how well it can handle weight. I am currently ~300 lbs, and while I am back on track with my eating and workout habits and anticipate shedding poundage, I was wondering if I could hear some opinions about the durability of an all carbon frame and its ability to hold up against my current weight. I've ridden a 2011 Specialized Allez with an aluminum frame and carbon forks for years now with no issues even while weighing in as much as 320 lbs. I'm in love with the esthetics of the new FX bikes and have been really feeling the itch to pull the trigger on the XL model at my local shop, but I would love to hear some anecdotal opinions on this before I make the purchase.

P.S. I'm donating my old bikes to a local not for profit and planning on buying the bike today, unless someone here can convince me that riding an all carbon frame at my weight will surely send me to the ICU

P.S.S. I'd also be curious to know opinions on the stock rims/spokes that come with this model. I know often times companies will skimp on the stock rims/spokes because many serious riders will customize their set up, and I eventually will too as I have had rear wheels built for all of my bikes. But I'm hoping to get at least a few months of riding in on the stock wheels before I have my local shop build me a set.
All the parts on the bike, particularly the wheels are more than sufficient for anyone roughly up to 220lb, even the most discerning cyclist probably wpukdnr get much from a wheelset upgrade. Most regular bikes are built to handle a combined weight of 300lb. The frame can probably handle a bit more.

At your weight, I wouldn't even think about it. If you got by on your specialized without bending or damaging anything, I would be amazing. You would need to look into a bike specifically built for heavier riders.

Maybe if you ride on entirely glass smooth surfaces, but you're still well over the max recommended weight .
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Old 09-17-21, 06:03 AM
  #1946  
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Trek Fx7.5
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Old 09-17-21, 11:00 AM
  #1947  
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Originally Posted by therunt
Looking to possibly purchase a Trek Sport 5 today, but I have some questions about the all carbon frame and how well it can handle weight. I am currently ~300 lbs, and while I am back on track with my eating and workout habits and anticipate shedding poundage, I was wondering if I could hear some opinions about the durability of an all carbon frame and its ability to hold up against my current weight. I've ridden a 2011 Specialized Allez with an aluminum frame and carbon forks for years now with no issues even while weighing in as much as 320 lbs. I'm in love with the esthetics of the new FX bikes and have been really feeling the itch to pull the trigger on the XL model at my local shop, but I would love to hear some anecdotal opinions on this before I make the purchase.

P.S. I'm donating my old bikes to a local not for profit and planning on buying the bike today, unless someone here can convince me that riding an all carbon frame at my weight will surely send me to the ICU

P.S.S. I'd also be curious to know opinions on the stock rims/spokes that come with this model. I know often times companies will skimp on the stock rims/spokes because many serious riders will customize their set up, and I eventually will too as I have had rear wheels built for all of my bikes. But I'm hoping to get at least a few months of riding in on the stock wheels before I have my local shop build me a set.
Curious if you bought the bike? My experiences or only issues with Specialized when I used to be well over 300lbs were as you already know, the weak wheels. Why a Specialized Crosstrail had 700c x 17mm internal wheels, I will never understand. But those really didn't last long! The bike you are looking at doesn't say what the internal diameter of the rims are, but does show 28 spoke and well, and this is my opinion, will need to be replaced at some point, unless they are really strong wheels. The description for the bike does show max weight at 300lbs and typically that is known to be a bit on the safe side. I have read many posts on the Clyde threads that suggest bikes like this can handle more, with exception to wheels. Go check out the Clyde section of this forum. Everyone there is super helpful!

If you did get the bike, hope you are enjoying it. Seems like a nice bike!
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Old 09-19-21, 01:35 PM
  #1948  
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Bontrager H1 Saddle Width

Originally Posted by swoodjr1
I have noticed that the Trek DS folks have their own thread but FX threads are spread out all over the place. Post up pics, hints, questions, tips, news, rumors!
I am looking at purchasing the 2022 FX 3. It has the Bontrager H1 saddle. I wonder if anyone knows the width of this saddle and if they find it comfortable or not. Thanks!
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Old 09-20-21, 03:00 AM
  #1949  
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Originally Posted by travbikeman
Curious if you bought the bike? My experiences or only issues with Specialized when I used to be well over 300lbs were as you already know, the weak wheels. Why a Specialized Crosstrail had 700c x 17mm internal wheels, I will never understand. But those really didn't last long! The bike you are looking at doesn't say what the internal diameter of the rims are, but does show 28 spoke and well, and this is my opinion, will need to be replaced at some point, unless they are really strong wheels. The description for the bike does show max weight at 300lbs and typically that is known to be a bit on the safe side. I have read many posts on the Clyde threads that suggest bikes like this can handle more, with exception to wheels. Go check out the Clyde section of this forum. Everyone there is super helpful!

If you did get the bike, hope you are enjoying it. Seems like a nice bike!
I did indeed get the bike. Unfortunately, I’ve only had the opportunity to take it on one short 10 mile ride so far due to having to work extra shifts this part week, but I’m looking forward to getting more miles in on this smooth ride. The wheels for sure will definitely need to be upgraded (I’ve had to do this for all of my other bikes), but I’ll have to wait at least until Christmas before I do so.
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Old 09-20-21, 04:50 AM
  #1950  
raymellott
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Bikes: 2015 Trek FX 7.0 - modified to be better on the road than it was designed to be. Now, 2021 Domane.

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Stock saddles, in my experience - and the experience of others I've spoken with - with Trek FX and drop bar bikes, are unrideable. Best to budget the extra $ to get one that will work for you. The Trek stores I trade at will sell you the bike, and then sell you a new saddle. But if you don't like the one you bought, you can swap it for another at no cost, try it out, and swap yet again and again until your rear end is satisfied. Yet again, you can do some research - online - and find saddles that are well rated for the kind of riding you do, your weight, age, and all that. But whatever you do, don't think that stock saddle will work unless of course, it will.
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