Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Need help with right term for wheel hub part

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Need help with right term for wheel hub part

Old 06-27-22, 05:07 AM
  #1  
mattinkansas
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Need help with right term for wheel hub part

I picked up a used Araya rim 26/150 recently very cheap. It's in excellent shape overall, except I think I need to obtain the little caps in the photo. The guy I bought the wheel from wasn't even sure if the caps in the photo went with the bike and they are bent out of shape. So, first, is the guy right? Does this Araya rim use these caps? And what is the correct term from them? Last, if I can buy replacements, how are they measured to determine fit?

I feel like the rim is worth investing in. It is pretty clean and round and true. Thank you.


mattinkansas is offline  
Old 06-27-22, 06:11 AM
  #2  
andrewclaus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,835

Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Liked 738 Times in 429 Posts
They're dust seals and they press fit into the hub, cup side toward the center. The axle cones should just fit through the hole. Sometimes the cones have an O-ring to sort of match. Check the bearing race of the cones for pitting (use a ball point pen) before proceeding.

It's very easy to bend those when prying them out for service, but they can usually be bent back into usable shape with a small anvil and blunt tool like the end of a steel rod. It's best to use a cone wrench flat-wise to remove them, and the flat handle of the same wrench to reinstall.
andrewclaus is offline  
Likes For andrewclaus:
Old 06-27-22, 08:40 AM
  #3  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,661
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times in 742 Posts
+1 ^^^ with andrewclaus. If no luck getting them back into shape or they're the wrong seals, take the wheel and axle assembly to your local bike shop or co-op who may have something. Do you know who makes the hub itself? That would help narrow it down a bit as to what to look for.
Crankycrank is offline  
Likes For Crankycrank:
Old 06-28-22, 12:58 PM
  #4  
davidad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 171 Times in 138 Posts
Dust shields.
davidad is offline  
Old 06-28-22, 02:38 PM
  #5  
ThermionicScott 
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times in 1,577 Posts
I generally don't remove those pieces to clean hubs anymore. Just use your pinkie and a paper towel, doing multiple passes to wipe out the old crud, then clean your pinkie reasonably well before applying fresh grease.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Likes For ThermionicScott:
Old 06-28-22, 02:47 PM
  #6  
BCRider
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
I generally don't remove those pieces to clean hubs anymore. Just use your pinkie and a paper towel, doing multiple passes to wipe out the old crud, then clean your pinkie reasonably well before applying fresh grease.
Me too.

For those of us with fat fingers or just big hands a set of angle tweezers or angle forceps is great for holding the little wad of paper towel for getting deep into the corners.

Mattinkansas, if you can find the proper size of socket you can force the cup of these seals over the socket and LIGHTLY tap it with something like a block of wood to restore their roundness. Similarly "body working" the inward shape will restore your seals so they fit into the hubs neatly once more. As mentioned they are quite malliable so they can be re-shaped quite a lot. Just don't smack them hard or you stretch the metal and then they won't fit. The stretching grows the diameter and then they are toast without major sheet metal skills. Shrinking the metal back is doable. But it's better to avoid the need to learn THAT skill as well....
BCRider is offline  
Likes For BCRider:
Old 06-28-22, 04:23 PM
  #7  
mattinkansas
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
You all are great! Like walking, talking bike encyclopedias with a sense of humor. Appreciate all the tips and explanations. I'll check on the maker of the hub and file away all the tricks you have provided for future use. But will have to google "angle forceps!" -- best regards, Matt
mattinkansas is offline  
Old 06-28-22, 07:48 PM
  #8  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,493

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times in 2,049 Posts
I've used oil seals to replace these at times. OD X ID x thickness
Something like this.
​​​​​​https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=25711
dedhed is offline  
Old 06-28-22, 09:18 PM
  #9  
ThermionicScott 
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times in 1,577 Posts
Originally Posted by dedhed
I've used oil seals to replace these at times. OD X ID x thickness
Something like this.
​​​​​​https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=25711
That's a cool idea -- you could do better than stock in many cases!
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 06-28-22, 11:46 PM
  #10  
SurferRosa
señor miembro
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,597

Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3860 Post(s)
Liked 6,450 Times in 3,190 Posts
Originally Posted by mattinkansas
The guy I bought the wheel from wasn't even sure if the caps in the photo went with the bike.

I doubt they do either.

The hub looks fine. If you have the axle, cones and locknuts, put it all that together, mock style, placing those dust caps over the lock nut and take a picture of it. It'll probably look like crap, verifying they're from some other mangled hub.
SurferRosa is offline  
Likes For SurferRosa:
Old 06-29-22, 04:28 AM
  #11  
mattinkansas
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Nice. That is clever. Thank you for the tip and the direct link.
mattinkansas is offline  
Old 06-29-22, 05:25 AM
  #12  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,493

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times in 2,049 Posts
Originally Posted by mattinkansas
Nice. That is clever. Thank you for the tip and the direct link.
Measure the hub ID, cone OD and try to find a 3 or 4mm width. Lots of them are 5-7 mm wide. It doesn't have to seat in the hub completely, just clear the locknut etc to fit in the drop out and not interfere with the bearing balls.
dedhed is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.