Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Ultegra Di2 front mech not working

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Ultegra Di2 front mech not working

Old 01-24-16, 11:20 AM
  #1  
renouj21
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4

Bikes: Kinesis Tripster ATR

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Ultegra Di2 front mech not working

Hi there,
My Di2 front mech has stopped working. At first I assumed it was the battery running low, but it's now fully charged and no sign of action. I've checked all the cables, they seem to be properly engaged. When I press and hold the front mech shifter no light comes on at the junction box (but it does with the rear shifter). My shifters are the R785 units (for hydraulic disc brakes). Are there any further checks or actions I can take before handing it over to my LBS?
Many thanks
renouj21 is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 12:43 PM
  #2  
gsa103
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,401

Bikes: Bianchi Infinito (Celeste, of course)

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 754 Post(s)
Liked 103 Times in 76 Posts
Can you swap the front and rear shifters at the junction box? That would isolate the issue to a bad shifter or a bad derailleur.
gsa103 is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 12:46 PM
  #3  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,333 Times in 841 Posts
Check wiring for continuity? is My input. online tech manuals must be out there..

I just fixed My Head/taillight set , by process of elimination , checking each part , separately..

I'd never buy a Di2.

Last edited by fietsbob; 01-24-16 at 12:49 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 01:03 PM
  #4  
wschruba
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,532
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 471 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
You need the SM-PCE1 to do any diagnostic work on Di2 components. Without it, you're just guessing (replacing wires, components, etc). As fietsbob said, you can use a continuity tester to do more than just guess, but to troubleshoot components themselves, you need to plug them into the tester.

Shops that work on Di2 should have it, though you can buy it yourself. It is an expensive investment for a 1 time fix, though...
wschruba is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 01:03 PM
  #5  
renouj21
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4

Bikes: Kinesis Tripster ATR

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
Can you swap the front and rear shifters at the junction box? That would isolate the issue to a bad shifter or a bad derailleur.
Good thought. Done that, the rear mech still works fine, the front mech not at all. That would seem to isolate the problem to the shifter wouldn't it (given that I can't get the shifters to trigger the battery light on the junction box)?
renouj21 is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 01:35 PM
  #6  
rm -rf
don't try this at home.
 
rm -rf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,534
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 823 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times in 172 Posts
You get a solid green light at the junction box when holding the right shifter? Then it's not a battery charge problem.

I would unplug and replug the wire at the shifter and at the junction box. The connector has to click in.

I liked the left-right shifter swap test, but I actually don't think it will work. The stem junction box doesn't appear to have predefined left/right connections--I think it just merges the signals onto one wire. The left and right shifters probably have differently coded signals. And see this weightweenies thread--he connected the right shifter to the left, then the left to the junction box, so it must be coded signals from the shifter.

The wire is probably okay, it's pretty sturdy. (I unscrewed my rear derailleur from the frame to check the dropout, and forgot to unplug the wire. It popped off with no damage when the derailleur dropped down.) But if you aren't sure, you could pull the right side wire and try it. You'd have to unwrap the bars, of course.

The Di2 Dealer Manual is worth downloading. It's easy to understand, and covers the wire installation in detail.
Download from this page: Shimano Di2 dealers manual. Get the full set of pdfs for your groupset, especially the red DM-UL0001-02 pdf.


From the Park Tool Di2 installation guide:

Your bike should have come with this Di2 wire installer tool. It makes it much easier to pull the connector and to push it back in--until it clicks. (sorry about the giant photo)



The shifter wire needs to have a little slack at the shifter instead of being stretched tight there. This is probably the minimal slack, the dealer manual shows a bigger loop/bend here.


Let us know what the unplug/replug does for you.

Last edited by rm -rf; 01-24-16 at 01:52 PM.
rm -rf is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 02:56 PM
  #7  
renouj21
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4

Bikes: Kinesis Tripster ATR

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
My shifter is a little different, because it's the hydraulic brake lever. Not easy to get that cable out at all (I don't have the tool), it doesn't look like it's come loose. But I've done the cable at the junction box, and that's not made any difference. I guess it's the bike shop for me.
Thanks for all the suggestions
J
renouj21 is offline  
Old 01-24-16, 06:40 PM
  #8  
rm -rf
don't try this at home.
 
rm -rf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,534
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 823 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times in 172 Posts
Originally Posted by renouj21 View Post
My shifter is a little different, because it's the hydraulic brake lever. Not easy to get that cable out at all (I don't have the tool), it doesn't look like it's come loose. But I've done the cable at the junction box, and that's not made any difference. I guess it's the bike shop for me.
Thanks for all the suggestions
J
You want the DM-BR0004-04 pdf manual from here. See pg 43. check the drawing there to see if it looks like your cable is clicked in all the way.

It clicks in just the same way as the photo above. The tool's hook end fits in the groove on the wire connector head to pull it out, and the tool's barrel end makes it easy to push the connector in.
rm -rf is offline  
Old 01-26-16, 02:48 PM
  #9  
renouj21
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4

Bikes: Kinesis Tripster ATR

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Hi all,
Took it in to the bike shop, it was the cable connection at the lever, as predicted by some of you. I couldn't get at it without the special tool.
Thanks for taking the time to try and help.
J
renouj21 is offline  
Likes For renouj21:
Old 03-17-19, 05:50 PM
  #10  
L Arnold
**thusi*st
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 211

Bikes: Specialized Touring Expedition '1984, Volagi Liscio, Dahon Visc D18, Dahon Visc SL, Schwinn Moab

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Well, Unplugging and replugging just now worked for me. Thanks for the tips there guys. Seems to need a shove more often than I would like ( Twice after the replug) May need to make an adapter like the special tool above. Hope I don't have to resort to tape to keep it there.

Good thing now is I have 2 batteries. Better try to wear them both out some weekend.
L Arnold is offline  
Likes For L Arnold:
Old 05-30-21, 04:13 PM
  #11  
momoman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 170

Bikes: 2013 Wilier Gran Turismo, 1983 Trek 760, 80's Colnago Super, 90's De Rosa SLX, 2009 Waterford 22 Series Singlespeed, 85 Medici Pro Strada, De Rosa Alumino frameset, Dave Molten Fuso frameset, 70's beater Peugeot PX10

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times in 61 Posts
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

On my ride on my Wilier Gran Turismo yesterday my front derailleur didnít shift at all. I had installed a 1st gen. Ultegra 6770 Di2 set last year that I bought off a friend who was upgrading. It worked flawlessly for over a year then the FD failed to shift yesterday. I searched on Google and this thread came up.

One of connectors at the brifter had worked its way loose. I clicked it back in and it works now. I guess I didnít give that cable enough slack when I wrapped the bar tape over it and the cable must have been pulled loose from gripping the bar tape and rotating it as I was riding.
momoman is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
izzyy
Bicycle Mechanics
7
01-12-21 02:37 PM
horatio
Road Cycling
5
07-23-19 04:30 AM
Waltersjonathan
Bicycle Mechanics
1
03-11-16 08:31 AM
LondonJeff
Bicycle Mechanics
2
01-11-16 07:08 AM
bostongarden
Road Cycling
25
01-19-11 10:01 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.